christi wrote: My battery is completely drained so I couldn't work on the car anyway as I do not have a battery charger readily available.
The battery MUST be fully charged, otherwise the engine will not turn fast enough and it will likely just flood again.
christi wrote:Ian some people did say that it could be the TPS and the fuel lines regular etc.
As mentioned, the S5 series can be a PITA with its electronics and issues with them.
christi wrote:"there might be a few issue's first try unplugging the Inline fuse for fuel cut off, then try using some starting fluid in the intake, if that doesn't work put a little bit of 2 stroke oil through a plug hole and turning the motor a bit until you get all of the rotor surface's covered. that will help build up some of the compression that was lost by the fuel soaking the inside a bunch.
Not actually very good or sound advice. Not horrible advice, just not sound. FIRST- you have to have good plugs in. No matter what you do if the plugs are junk it is not going to fire up and run. Starting fluid or "compression helpers" will NOT solve this. Also there is a REASON the car flooded. If you do not find and fix that, you will lock into a cycle of just pissing away a lot of time and possibly money. Find and fix the root problem. First.
christi wrote:EVEN IF you need your injectors cleaned it should fire up with starting fluid. if it can't fire up with starting fluid then work on it tel it does before expecting your nicely cleaned injectors to do anything. If you can't get it started up with this setup then there maybe something wrong in the ignition, but the starting fluid should be able to ignite even with low spark."
No.
Starting fluid WILL NOT start an engine with bad or soaked plugs. Period. And when a rotary floods the fuel is all throughout the housings so you MUST crank it over to get as much fuel out of it as you can then walk away and let it sit so the rest evaporates out when they are badly flooded. When the engine has been badly or repeatedly flooded YOU MUST get rid of all the fuel in the combustion chambers as well as use new (or known good) plugs. There is no real way around this (although I HAVE tow-started an FD or two that would not start after sitting and continously fouled the plugs). Taking the plugs out, drying them on a rag or in the sun and then popping them back into the motor WILL NOT WORK. Period. You can try drying out the plugs with a propane torch or even a butane lighter, but no guarantees that will work.
There is no solid way to tell if the injectors are hanging open without having them tested, and honestly this would be my last resort sort of thing.
As I said above- check the coolant temp sensor, the TPS, the MAF, and all wiring connections. Pulling the ECI fuse while the engine cranks is also a good idea.
I have no idea how the car ran before, so I have no comment to make on possible pre-existing problems.

