"Project Miata" Update

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roninsoldier83
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Postby roninsoldier83 » Sun Apr 24, 2011 9:14

94mx5 wrote:Looking good! Must feel good to be making progress. It will be done before you know it, and once you get to drive it, I am sure there will be no regrets about all the work that was done. At least you will know it was done right.


Thanks man! Honestly, it does feel pretty good to be making progress and to actually be able to drive the bugger yesterday. My overall regret level is going down drastically as she's getting closer to being "done" haha. Although, in truth, even when it's ready to track, the car will never really be "done" per se. :D

Once the car is up to par, that's when the real fun begins, as then it will be time to start directing my funds towards making it faster/more fun to drive. :D
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Postby roninsoldier83 » Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:14

So, after doing a good amount of research, I've decided on an upgrade path, which I plan on doing in stages to cut down on the pain my wallet would be feeling by doing everything at once. This will all be in "stages" as my funds allow, in will be done in the following order:

1. MegaSquirt PnP:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtpnp-mm9093-for-the-199093-mazda-miata-manual-tranny-p-154.html?osCsid=6cf60ff9bf4395e4ad649f0766d4f354

^^^At that point, I'll tune the car via the MSPnP for 91 octane in hopes to be able to squeeze a couple extra degrees of timing out of it. Will also be picking up a wideband O2 & MAP sensor at the same time (converting to speed density/MAP).

2. Flyin' Miata Clutch Happy Meal:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4531&parentid=0&stocknumber=08-36005%20%2010.30

^^^The old clutch needs to be replaced, so I figure I might as well get a full setup that will take the abuse I'll eventually be putting on it. Haven't decided if I want the more street friendly 13 lbs or the 10 lbs flywheel yet though.

3. Injectors and fuel pump from Deatschwerks, and likely 800cc:
http://www.deatschwerks.com/miata/miata-1990-2005
http://www.deatschwerks.com/fuel-pumps/300+-lph-high-flow-in-tank-fuel-pump

^^^At this point I would tune the car via MSPnP for the injectors, likely on E85. There won't be much of a gain moving over to E85 while still naturally aspirated, but that's not the point. I want to get used to playing with the Standalone MSPnP on E85.

4. FM Turbo kit - no electronics, w/GT2560R:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=&parentid=&stocknumber=22-10100%20%20BLK%20GAUGE

^^^At this point, running E85 would be more useful not only for making power, but for knock resistance when beating on the car.
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Postby roninsoldier83 » Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:14

I'm sure there will be other odds and ends that I pick up here and there, but for the most part, this is the upgrade path I have planned. The plan is to try and scour forums (namely Miata.net & miataturbo.net), as well as Craigslist, Ebay motors ect, for used parts in order to save cash on everything except for the injectors/fuel pump, I have no problem buying them new (I want the flow sheet and peace of mind that I won't run out of fuel as easily haha).

From there, the only other plans might pickup would be a bigger radiator, higher flowing fans and an oil cooler, but we'll see how necessary it is when I start beating on the car.

Honestly, I'm only shooting for a conservative tune, running around ~10psi or so, and close to ~200whp. Something that isn't too hard on the motor. In the meantime, I'll likely pick up an extra motor that I'll build over time, but just drive on the stock 1.6L in the meantime.

Either way, this is the path I've chosen, and I think long-term, this is going to be a lot of fun :)

What thinks you CMZC?

-Brandon
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erod550
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Postby erod550 » Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:14

Personally I'd rather just save up for the FM II Hydra kit so you get everything you need that you know won't have any problem working together, but it could be fun to tinker with another system and do the tuning yourself. Plus this way, you get to play with stuff before you have everything at the end.

Sounds like a good plan and I would love to do something like this to mine eventually, though if I'm going to dump 5k into a car it would probably go toward a supercharger for the Mustang, hehe.
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Postby roninsoldier83 » Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:14

erod550 wrote:Personally I'd rather just save up for the FM II Hydra kit so you get everything you need that you know won't have any problem working together, but it could be fun to tinker with another system and do the tuning yourself. Plus this way, you get to play with stuff before you have everything at the end.

Sounds like a good plan and I would love to do something like this to mine eventually, though if I'm going to dump 5k into a car it would probably go toward a supercharger for the Mustang, hehe.


LOL, I hear ya, but part of the reason I bought the Miata was to try and curb my constant yearning to modify my daily driver haha.... trust me, it's tempting, as I know with about ~$2500 invested, the 335xi would run high 12's at Bandimere (low 12's at least at sea level), but I'm trying to stay away from that.

Honestly, when it comes to EM, I've spoken to a couple of tuners I know, and I keep hearing the same thing: the MS is more intuitive/easier to tune than the Hydra and costs less. With the injectors, the FM II kit comes with 550cc RC injectors (high impedance), but those would REALLY be pushing it for running E85. They have a set of low impedance 750's (would prefer high impedance), but I would rather go with a set of DW800's (high impedance) that are just modified stockers, complete plug-n-play and easier to tune for... as a bonus, they're also cheaper, and I've used DW injectors in the past with great success.

The Hydra has great resolution (32x32 IIRC), but other than that, the only advantage it would have is knock control, which, the MS has KnockSense available, but on E85, knock isn't really an issue (no joke, it's actually pretty hard to get a car to knock on E85). The Hydra just costs SO much more, and is more complex to boot, so the MS just makes more sense to someone like me.

Just my $.02
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Postby erod550 » Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:14

I hadn't done any research on the EM systems, and at first I was thinking whoa 800s seem huge when the FMII Hydra kit comes with 550s but then I remembered you were planning on doing E85. So it sounds like everything is accounted for and it is a good plan.

As for not wanting to modify your daily driver I can understand that. For me my Miata is my daily really as I bring it 4 out of the 5 days and the Mustang only once and then drive it on my weekends. That's a big reason why I haven't messed with the Miata at all. It's super reliable as is and I don't want to push it and cause issues. I already think my valve cover is leaking a little oil. Need to get that fixed soon. It would be worse with boost I'm sure.
2015 Ironman Silver Veloster Turbo - Bone stock and staying that way

1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors



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Postby Dange » Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:14

like i just talked to the tuner at revolutions, he wont touch a hydra, he says the electronics are great but the software is utterly useless. only thing i can thing of is make sure the MSPNP will control ac and alternator. thats actually the ecu im planning on, but lucky you, my MSPNP costs 1,199 dollars....

im running larger toyota supra injectors sold by [url=osidetiger.com]osidetiger.com[/url] you could probably beable to get you a set cleaned, pollished, and flowmatched . for about half the price of the DW,

if your going turbo, FM suggests the 10.3lb i had the 8lb 1.8l fidanza on my old 1.6l engine and it was a blast n/a and never had an issue with streetability. its not going to be as crazy light as a normal clutch because it seems you are getting a 1.8l clutch and flywheel. which is alittle larger diameter so you get a moi change making it feel like a bit heavier flywheel. its direct bolt in, and grips better to the point of a stage 1 1.8clutch is about equal to a stage 2 1.6l clutch, but the bite and pedal feel like stock so itll be easily driveable
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Postby roninsoldier83 » Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:14

erod550 wrote:I hadn't done any research on the EM systems, and at first I was thinking whoa 800s seem huge when the FMII Hydra kit comes with 550s but then I remembered you were planning on doing E85. So it sounds like everything is accounted for and it is a good plan.

As for not wanting to modify your daily driver I can understand that. For me my Miata is my daily really as I bring it 4 out of the 5 days and the Mustang only once and then drive it on my weekends. That's a big reason why I haven't messed with the Miata at all. It's super reliable as is and I don't want to push it and cause issues. I already think my valve cover is leaking a little oil. Need to get that fixed soon. It would be worse with boost I'm sure.


Yeah, the old corn gas likes about ~30% extra fuel to hit the same target lambda, so I figured the 800's should get the job done. Although, the E85 wouldn't really be for more power per se, but more or less, just for the knock resistance. Additional power would just be a side bonus.

LOL @ your Miata being your daily! I think that's awesome, but also find it hysterical :D The brand new (read: should be reliable/still has a warranty) Mustang sits in the garage, while the 21 year old Miata serves as the daily, that's awesome!

So, are you going to be driving the Miata on snow days as well? I would think the lack of traction/stability control, RWD, only 2100 lbs, and short wheelbase would make for a fairly scary ride on snowy days haha!
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Postby erod550 » Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:14

roninsoldier83 wrote:So, are you going to be driving the Miata on snow days as well? I would think the lack of traction/stability control, RWD, only 2100 lbs, and short wheelbase would make for a fairly scary ride on snowy days haha!


Yes I do drive it in the snow, and yes it can be scary, lol. Another reason I want a new job in the Springs by next winter. With the studded snows on I can go anywhere in town with zero problems no matter how bad it gets (assuming the roads are plowed because of low ground clearance). But on the highway above 45-50mph is where it gets dicey in the Miata. If it's just mostly wet and a little slick, it's fine. But when it's completely snow-covered or thick ice on the roads, it gets very unstable.
2015 Ironman Silver Veloster Turbo - Bone stock and staying that way

1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors



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2011 Kona Blue Mustang GT 5.0

2009 True Red Mazdaspeed3 GT

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Postby roninsoldier83 » Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:14

Dange wrote:like i just talked to the tuner at revolutions, he wont touch a hydra, he says the electronics are great but the software is utterly useless. only thing i can thing of is make sure the MSPNP will control ac and alternator. thats actually the ecu im planning on, but lucky you, my MSPNP costs 1,199 dollars....

im running larger toyota supra injectors sold by [url=osidetiger.com]osidetiger.com[/url] you could probably beable to get you a set cleaned, pollished, and flowmatched . for about half the price of the DW,

if your going turbo, FM suggests the 10.3lb i had the 8lb 1.8l fidanza on my old 1.6l engine and it was a blast n/a and never had an issue with streetability. its not going to be as crazy light as a normal clutch because it seems you are getting a 1.8l clutch and flywheel. which is alittle larger diameter so you get a moi change making it feel like a bit heavier flywheel. its direct bolt in, and grips better to the point of a stage 1 1.8clutch is about equal to a stage 2 1.6l clutch, but the bite and pedal feel like stock so itll be easily driveable


LOL, I am not shocked that Adam said that (I'm assuming that's who you talked to at Revolutions?!?)... Nick at MAC said almost the same thing about the Hydra, he said he "would" tune one, but really hates the software, and really does not want to tune one unless he has to haha. Similar comments from my buddy Mark who relocated out of Arizona and tunes for a living lol....

I'll keep that in mind about the injectors and flywheel. I've driven a few Subaru's with lightened flywheels that at low speeds sound like mixing trucks haha, and were difficult to get a smooth start out of, so I was hesitant to get the "lightest" option available, haha, and yeah, I was going to run the 1.8L setup, as it just made more sense.
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Postby Dange » Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:14

yeah a lightened 1.8l flywheel drives like its only a little tiny bit lighter than the stock 1.6l flywheel I did get a bit more gear whine inside the cabin, but without a puck clutch it does rev a bit faster but starting was almost the same as stock. because of the extra diameter its acting like a larger flywheel because the moment of inertia is further out from the center

and i daily drove my miata at about 225rwhp the past two winters and i only had all seasons, it definitely took some finesse. and starting from a stop up a hill in the ice was sketchy at best. the only thing that helped me was the LSD and abs.
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Postby Number2 » Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:14

looks good!
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Postby roninsoldier83 » Sat Apr 30, 2011 9:14

Thanks man :) Not too horrible for a 21 year old Mazda.

UPDATE:

I got new Yokohama ADVAN Neova AD08 tires (205/50/15's) on the car today. I also stopped by Ace hardware and picked up a couple bolts that were missing for the mounting bracket for the P/S. I'm missing a few more bolts, but can't clearly see where the "cold pipe" is supposed to mount for the P/S, so not sure which size bolts to pickup. I'm sure once I start digging around it will make sense.

I also went to throw the new pads in there today.... *sigh* turns out when I pulled the old pads, two of the calipers were leaking :( Guess what I did today? Let's just say that thank goodness my brother Carter was here to watch my kiddo for a couple hours, and no, I don't really like re-building calipers. :(

Either way, not sure if it was the new tires, or the new pads, or the fact that some of the brake fluid spilled onto the pads/calipers/rotors, but bedding the pads was a smoky ordeal for the first 2-3 stops LOL!! Smoke went away, and pedal feel got a lot better after a handful of stops, so we're good on this front.

Also discovered that one of the wheels is fairly bent as well... *sigh* it holds air just fine, and I've spent too much money lately, so I'm going to hold off on replacing it for now, but just another thing to add to the list. The previous owner really didn't take very good care of this car, lol. Oh well.

I also happened to stop by RPM Motorsports in Lakewood, talked to Matt and picked up a new helmet.
Image

Overall, I'm almost ready to run! Just have to put the P/S setup back in the car, change a few fluids, and get an alignment. :)

Although, there's a guy over in Erie, CO that has a 99+ torsen LSD with 4.30 FD, that is willing to swap me for my 4.10 94-97 LSD, so I might do that as well (might as well get back my OEM final drive ratio/get a bit more torque multiplication, as this car needs it haha!).

Slowly, but surely... she's getting there. :)

-Brandon
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Postby erod550 » Sat Apr 30, 2011 9:14

I had a leaky caliper on mine too. I probably should have rebuilt it but I just bought a new one. Then I proceeded to overtighten the bleed screw and snap it off. So hope that corner never needs bled, lol. Really don't want to replace a brand new caliper just for that.

How much was that helmet? The HJC I have is only good through the end of this year I'm told.
2015 Ironman Silver Veloster Turbo - Bone stock and staying that way

1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors



Former Rides:

2011 Kona Blue Mustang GT 5.0

2009 True Red Mazdaspeed3 GT

2005 Flame Red SRT-4

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Postby roninsoldier83 » Sat Apr 30, 2011 9:14

erod550 wrote:I had a leaky caliper on mine too. I probably should have rebuilt it but I just bought a new one. Then I proceeded to overtighten the bleed screw and snap it off. So hope that corner never needs bled, lol. Really don't want to replace a brand new caliper just for that.

How much was that helmet? The HJC I have is only good through the end of this year I'm told.


Yeah, leaky calipers were just another thing that needed fixing I suppose. Although, I've been putting in a lot of time/effort on the car, it will be nice to have everything done, and stop finding new things to fix haha!

The helmet was $77.32 with tax :) No bad at all IMO, and I was told it should be good for 5 years or so.


On another note, I decided to measure wheel center to fender to see how far off they were from recommendations... with the coilovers set at their current configuration, they are ~12.5" all around... surprisingly that's what most people recommended over on Miata.net when it came to setting ride height on these coilovers, which should give around ~3.5" of suspension travel (which is very small in comparison to the Subaru suspensions I'm used to haha!). Either way, I think the reason the previous owner didn't give me the Tein suspension adjustment tool is because he didn't have one... and honestly, that's a good thing haha! As the guy before him (that modded) the car likely set the suspension based on recommendations rather than just wanting the car to look "slammed", haha.

Which, since that's what I was going to set them for anyway, it's good to see one more thing I don't need to fix/play with. :)
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