I believe it has to do with the extra piping involved with the FMIC. More piping means more air to release through the BOV. The HKS works has a diaphram meaning that it releases air as it hits the diaphram with sufficient force. The extra piping causes the air to "pulse" causing the flutter. The synapse uses the boost source to pull open the piston in the bov and the vacuum lines to push open the piston, this allows it to blow off more accurately the extra air from the FMIC piping.
At least it makes sense in my head.
Toubles with TurboXS BOV
2006 SPEED6 Liquid Platinum Sport w/ Nav
Mods Completed - VG Sharkfin, 3M Clear Bra, SU Motor Mount, SU Test Pipe, 35% tint, VEI Digital Boost Gauge, Custom Defrost Vent Pod, PG Exhaust Manifold, CPE Turbo Inlet Pipe, CPE FMIC, Hacked Mazdaspeed CAI into SRI, Synapse BOV, Cobb Accessport EMS Tuner, CPE Dual 3" Catback Exhaust
Mods Needed - Catted Downpipe and finally a tune.
Mods Completed - VG Sharkfin, 3M Clear Bra, SU Motor Mount, SU Test Pipe, 35% tint, VEI Digital Boost Gauge, Custom Defrost Vent Pod, PG Exhaust Manifold, CPE Turbo Inlet Pipe, CPE FMIC, Hacked Mazdaspeed CAI into SRI, Synapse BOV, Cobb Accessport EMS Tuner, CPE Dual 3" Catback Exhaust
Mods Needed - Catted Downpipe and finally a tune.
bobopud wrote:I believe it has to do with the extra piping involved with the FMIC. More piping means more air to release through the BOV. The HKS works has a diaphram meaning that it releases air as it hits the diaphram with sufficient force. The extra piping causes the air to "pulse" causing the flutter. The synapse uses the boost source to pull open the piston in the bov and the vacuum lines to push open the piston, this allows it to blow off more accurately the extra air from the FMIC piping.
At least it makes sense in my head.
That makes sense. Doesn't really help explain deepspeed's issue. I don't see how just a TP would cause flutter all of a sudden. I believe the HKS can be adjusted to loosen the load on the spring.
Hey Deep...where did you purchase? If it was purchased from another forum member (other than new) it's possible it was tightened based on the mods on the previous car? It should be loosened up as much as possible I would think based on the car now being at altitude. You could pull it off and check the position of the screw.
-
deepSpeedMS3
- Posts: 310
- Joined: Sun May 03, 2009 9:14
- Location: Aurora
movovr wrote:That makes sense. Doesn't really help explain deepspeed's issue. I don't see how just a TP would cause flutter all of a sudden. I believe the HKS can be adjusted to loosen the load on the spring.
Hey Deep...where did you purchase? If it was purchased from another forum member (other than new) it's possible it was tightened based on the mods on the previous car? It should be loosened up as much as possible I would think based on the car now being at altitude. You could pull it off and check the position of the screw.
It is a washer based BOV ...are you saying take washers out so the spring is more "loose" / less compressed????
deepSpeedMS3 wrote:It is a washer based BOV ...are you saying take washers out so the spring is more "loose" / less compressed????
Brain fart...for some reason I got an HKS in my head but yes, that's the idea to loosen it as much as possible to allow it to release easier. Anyone else want to chime in? Where is RoninSoldier when you need him?
-
deepSpeedMS3
- Posts: 310
- Joined: Sun May 03, 2009 9:14
- Location: Aurora
Ok i took your advise this morning and tried taken washers out. This would cause the spring to be more "loose" or less tense.
Well is worked to a certain point.
The fluttering is cut way down although this is what i found. It used to flutter ALL the time with 3-7 washers. I tried 2-1-and no washer. No washers is the best.
1st gear: no flutter and blows off fine after 3000 rpm
2nd gear: flutters from 2000-2500 rpm but blows of fine at 3000rpm
same for gears 3-6
So if i shift 3000 rpm or later im fine.
Now the question is : Is the car ok to drive with it working like this? know damage to the car from compressor surge? I figured if I can shift after 3000 rpm (which i uselly shift at that or above) it will be ok. Tell me what everyone thinks
Well is worked to a certain point.
The fluttering is cut way down although this is what i found. It used to flutter ALL the time with 3-7 washers. I tried 2-1-and no washer. No washers is the best.
1st gear: no flutter and blows off fine after 3000 rpm
2nd gear: flutters from 2000-2500 rpm but blows of fine at 3000rpm
same for gears 3-6
So if i shift 3000 rpm or later im fine.
Now the question is : Is the car ok to drive with it working like this? know damage to the car from compressor surge? I figured if I can shift after 3000 rpm (which i uselly shift at that or above) it will be ok. Tell me what everyone thinks
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 53 guests

