8 won't start, won't even crank..

GTConversion · Postby **GTConversion** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:14

Specs:

'04 Manual RX8, 36,500 miles.
Last "Full Circle Inspection" at 33,000; all 'green.'
Stock engine, no modifications
Purchased at 34,500 - driven it with no issue.

On Tuesday morning I walked out to the car, used the keyfob to unlock the doors, got in, depressed the clutch fully and turned the key. Nothing. No cranking, no noise at all, in fact.

I noticed that the radio did not come on, and after getting out to look and back in, I noticed the keyfob didn't work anymore, either.

Thinking that the battery was dead (I believe it had the original factory battery), I tried to jumpstart it with a jumpstart kit AND another car to no avail.

I went out this afternoon to get the battery tested and it was putting out 12.5 volts. Not fully charged, but enough to get a car cranking, at least. I noticed when I pulled the battery out that it hadn't been seated well and the caps were a little bent, but nothing major. Praying to Jebus that it was just a dead battery, I bought one on the spot ($90..) and threw it in.

Still nothing. It's acting exactly like what happens when you try to turn it on without your foot on the clutch... dead silence except your key turning past the "ON" position.

What could this be? I was thinking it was a clutch position sensor or something, but that doesn't explain why the radio and the keyfob don't work.

I pulled the 60A fuse right on the battery housing and it looked fine, as did all the little fuses I could pull out in the fuse box.

Tuesday was particularly snowy and cold and the car ran fine driving 100+ mi on the previous Saturday in the snow..

HELP? I've already spent $90, and I don't want to have to pay to tow it to the dealership for nothing.

Cross-posted on rx8club..

RedRoadster · Postby **RedRoadster** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:14

Aftermarket alarm system? A dead one may have a fail-secure ignition kill..

GTConversion · Postby **GTConversion** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:14

Nope totally stock except stuff in my garage.. all appearance

turbo99jetta · Postby **turbo99jetta** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:14

double and triple check the fuse.. just because visually they look good doesn't always mean that they are. if none of the lights are coming on though on the inside of the car, it seems like it might be a faulty battery cable.

Rich · Postby **Rich** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:14

I was thinking battery, but it seems you've ruled that out. Not sure what else it could be, but I'd bet it's electrical related (I know, obvious).

RedRoadster · Postby **RedRoadster** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:14

second on the fuse check. test it with a multimeter for continuity.

goldrocket · Postby **goldrocket** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:14

Does the radio turn on? Does the rest of the electrical system work? Sometimes the starter or the soelonoid goes bad, and will cause a drian on the charging system. If it's locked up it will cause the symptoms you are describing. Can you roll start the car?

GTConversion · Postby **GTConversion** » Sun Dec 07, 2008 9:14

I don't have a meter but I checked every one the little fuses and they looked fine. Anyone know how to pull out the big "box" fuses like the 120A? I'm thinking it might be one of those, because every small fuse in the footwell and engine compartment checked out.

GTConversion · Postby **GTConversion** » Sun Dec 07, 2008 9:14

These are the fuses I can't figure out how to pull:

RedRoadster · Postby **RedRoadster** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 9:14

fuses that look physically fine can still be borked and not conduct.. (BTDT) get yourself a cheap $10 job from Radio Shack or Wally world or some such..

Ranger · Postby **Ranger** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 9:14

You can pull those big fuses using a pair of needle nose pliers, or some other form of pliers. By the way, they're called "relays", and aren't actually fuses in the typical sense...more like electrically operated switches. Unfortunately you need a special tool to test them, so pulling them won't do much good, unless you are troubleshooting a voltage drain (good idea).

GTConversion · Postby **GTConversion** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 9:14

I finally gave in.. :icon_no2:

$98.00 just for them to look at it. The towing was free, though.. apparently still within the 4 years / 50,000 mile Limited Warranty.

Huzer21 · Postby **Huzer21** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 9:14

So wait, even though you're still under warranty, they're charging you to look at it? That seems kinda messed up.

GTConversion · Postby **GTConversion** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 9:14

That's what I thought.. I've never had a car with a warranty, though.. so I'm not sure how it's all supposed to work. Guy was friendly enough, but said there'd be a $98 fee..

Huzer21 · Postby **Huzer21** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 9:14

Well, if it ends up being a warrantable issue, then that fee should be waived. Don't get suckered, Mazda of Lakewood tried to sucker me into buying a clutch for my 2nd gear syncro issue. If they're towing you for free, they should be diagnosing for free, since you're still under bumper-bumper.

I'll say this, any of the dealerships in Denver I've taken my car for diagnostics/work, none of them have charged me a fee just to look at it.

8 won't start, won't even crank..

8 won't start, won't even crank..

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