Build thread

[speedjunkie]

Haha. Thanks for the link! I've been thinking about different things I could do for aero, and I've read some threads on that forum, but I'm going to do more research.

For the front aero, I was thinking about canards that are adjustable depending on if it's a high speed track or slower. Like changing the angle of them depending on which track. And of course making them removable for the street, along with an undertray/splitter that is removable, and the wing for the rear that's removable. I think my next projects will be aero related.

[Ranger]

I didn't even know you were still on the forum lol.

Hah, I randomly visited earlier this year to see if anyone was still alive and saw that, yes, there are still people posting / chatting, and that it had changed over to the new forum name. Been back ever since Aero is something I'm really interested in (but only know a little about) so I'll be keeping an eye out for whatever you come up with!

[speedjunkie]

I didn't even know you were still on the forum lol.

Hah, I randomly visited earlier this year to see if anyone was still alive and saw that, yes, there are still people posting / chatting, and that it had changed over to the new forum name. Been back ever since Aero is something I'm really interested in (but only know a little about) so I'll be keeping an eye out for whatever you come up with!

Well, I don't know much about it so I'm by no means a pro with aero and I wouldn't use what I do as gospel lol, but I'm gonna try to learn enough to apply it at an amateur level. And I don't plan on surpassing that level of racing anyway so it works out lol.

Good to see you're still around.

[speedjunkie]

I got a couple texts from Chris today. He said Ryan from Syvecs was able to do what he needed to do and now we're just waiting on the injectors which will probably come in tomorrow. Then he's ready to tune. WOOHOO!!!

[speedjunkie]

I was reading through a build thread last night and found that ID had suggested using a 6 micron filter with their injectors, which have internal 6 micron filters also. Makes sense, at least that way there is less chance of gunking them up. So I'm looking at Fuelab filters (which is what the guy got) and they have the 818 series and 828 series. The only difference I can see is the 828 is longer and flows 350GPH as opposed to the 200GPH of the 818 series. Now my question is should I go for the 828 since it flows more or stick with the 818. The reason I ask is because AT MOST each of my pumps flows 120.3GPH, and I'm almost afraid that if I go with the larger filter it might not keep the filters pressurized, and therefore not keep the lines fully pressurized. Thoughts?

I'd also like to get the stainless steel filter element if possible. The guy in the build thread got them, but I thought Fuelab only supplied fiberglass filter elements for 6 micron. I sent him a message to see if he'll give me the part number of the exact filter he got but I haven't heard back from him yet.

[Shadowden]

What is the ordering of parts? Fuel tank, Fuel pump, line, Filter, injector? If so, then I wouldn't think the extra capacity of the filter wouldn't be a problem. You might contact them and just see how they calculate flow. I know you said it is just longer, but since flow is a measurement of cross sectional area x velocity, if they are the same diameter and going through the same filters, then I'm not sure what it would flow at a higher rate.

[speedjunkie]

What is the ordering of parts? Fuel tank, Fuel pump, line, Filter, injector? If so, then I wouldn't think the extra capacity of the filter wouldn't be a problem. You might contact them and just see how they calculate flow. I know you said it is just longer, but since flow is a measurement of cross sectional area x velocity, if they are the same diameter and going through the same filters, then I'm not sure what it would flow at a higher rate.

Yep, that's it. Two Walbro 450s in the tank, to two filters and then two check valves, then to the two lines going to the front, those go into one -8 and into the rails to the injectors. The longer filter will give more surface area, but I'm still concerned about keeping it pressurized. I'm going to email Fuelab.

[speedjunkie]

Got this in a text from Chris today. WOOHOO!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B__9WB ... cslist_api

[speedjunkie]

Looks like tuning will start tomorrow. He had some issues with the fans but was able to resolve those. The OMP still isn't functioning properly, so he has to talk to the guys at Syvecs about that. And the bluetooth module won't pair with two different iPads, and he believes that's the fault of the module itself since it's happening with two different tablets. Hopefully these issues can be resolved within the next three weeks so I can pick the car up when I get back. I'm really happy it at least runs on all the new pieces and ECU though.

[speedjunkie]

Chris said the Bluetooth issue is fixed. The OMP issue is still unresolved but he sent a pump to them so they can work it out, and I can premix for the time being until they fix it and it should just be a software fix we can use. He plans to dyno tune this Friday.

I texted with another owner that does upholstery in Maryland about doing alcantara suede like he's doing for another guy right now. I REALLY want to do this. Anyway, he gave me a rough estimate of $4-5k. YIKES lol. I'm willing to spend money on the car obviously, but I can justify it easier if it's a performance upgrade and not just cosmetic like this. So needless to say IF I ever do this, I doubt it'll be anytime soon.

Fuel Lab got back to me and said the only difference and benefit of using the longer filter was more surface area and not clogging the filter as quickly. He didn't say anything about not being able to keep it pressurized. So I may go with the longer filter if it will fit.

[speedjunkie]

I got a text from Chris Friday.

Car did well but had issues with overboost. Didn't get to do pulls. Will dive into it tomorrow to see what's wrong. 0% duty and boost to the moon.

So, I'm excited that I should be getting the car back soon-ish. I asked him how high the boost got and he said he cut it at 18psi. I also asked him about turbo speed but he wasn't sure on that and said he was having problems with that sensor working intermittently, but it could be just a setting in the ECU and he was getting with Syvecs about it.

He also said I had two bad fan relays and said he could replace them with sealed relays like the Hella ones I got for the fuel system, so I agreed to do that. He said water got in the OE ones (since they're not sealed) and it's a corroded mess.

He said that was the first time he'd driven the car and that's why he hadn't noticed the problem with the turbo speed sensor before now. I asked him how it drove because I haven't driven it on the Ohlins or since removing the ABS. He said it rode kinda rough but that he's getting older HAHA. I agreed and said that's why I got the Ohlins...maybe I will need to get the Swift springs for sure haha. I've been talking to Andy about that and I might go with 10kg front and 8kg rear. But I'll probably wait with that until I drive the car back to CO and see how I like it. Chris also said the clutch is pretty abrupt, and I do agree it can be that way, but my bigger problem with it is that it feels like it engages at different times all the time so it's unpredictable. Maybe I just need to drive it more to get used to it though.

I ordered new fuel filters that are 6 micron, since the injectors are 6 micron also. I figure it's cheaper to clean or replace a filter than an injector, or getting an injector cleaned. Also, since I'll be using E85 on occasion now, and since it has the ability to break down and clean out the tank that pump gas normally wouldn't, sending it into the fuel system, it's likely I'll be dealing with clogged filters sooner rather than later.

I'm also thinking about getting a new fuel pressure regulator and sell the current one. Mostly because it will be black and match in the engine bay HAHA, but I try to talk myself into it by saying it's new and probably in better shape anyway haha. If the new one is $160-ish and I can sell the current one for $100 or so, I'm really only paying $60 for the swap. So I've looked at an all black Aeromotive the same as what I have, and confirmed that it's good with Ethanol. I've also looked at one from Fuelab, but I'd have to get a new bracket from CJ Motorsports that works with either Fuelab or Aeromotive and I'm trying to do this as cheap as possible since it's all about cosmetics. I was also reading a story on the Adaptronic website about how different fuel pressure regulators and they didn't rate them all for fear of burning bridges, but they did list the best and worst...best being the TurboSmart FPR2000 and the worst being the stock FD regulator lol. So I was also thinking if I'm going to swap it, I might want to go with the best one...but I also wonder if they're not just saying that because TurboSmart is another Australian company. So I'm not 100% if I can trust their word, but I'm also probably not going to get a bunch of different ones to test for myself either lol.
http://www.adaptronic.com.au/fuel-press ... ifference/

[lOOkatme]

I got a text from Chris Friday.

Car did well but had issues with overboost. Didn't get to do pulls. Will dive into it tomorrow to see what's wrong. 0% duty and boost to the moon.

So, I'm excited that I should be getting the car back soon-ish. I asked him how high the boost got and he said he cut it at 18psi. I also asked him about turbo speed but he wasn't sure on that and said he was having problems with that sensor working intermittently, but it could be just a setting in the ECU and he was getting with Syvecs about it.

He also said I had two bad fan relays and said he could replace them with sealed relays like the Hella ones I got for the fuel system, so I agreed to do that. He said water got in the OE ones (since they're not sealed) and it's a corroded mess.

He said that was the first time he'd driven the car and that's why he hadn't noticed the problem with the turbo speed sensor before now. I asked him how it drove because I haven't driven it on the Ohlins or since removing the ABS. He said it rode kinda rough but that he's getting older HAHA. I agreed and said that's why I got the Ohlins...maybe I will need to get the Swift springs for sure haha. I've been talking to Andy about that and I might go with 10kg front and 8kg rear. But I'll probably wait with that until I drive the car back to CO and see how I like it. Chris also said the clutch is pretty abrupt, and I do agree it can be that way, but my bigger problem with it is that it feels like it engages at different times all the time so it's unpredictable. Maybe I just need to drive it more to get used to it though.

I ordered new fuel filters that are 6 micron, since the injectors are 6 micron also. I figure it's cheaper to clean or replace a filter than an injector, or getting an injector cleaned. Also, since I'll be using E85 on occasion now, and since it has the ability to break down and clean out the tank that pump gas normally wouldn't, sending it into the fuel system, it's likely I'll be dealing with clogged filters sooner rather than later.

I'm also thinking about getting a new fuel pressure regulator and sell the current one. Mostly because it will be black and match in the engine bay HAHA, but I try to talk myself into it by saying it's new and probably in better shape anyway haha. If the new one is $160-ish and I can sell the current one for $100 or so, I'm really only paying $60 for the swap. So I've looked at an all black Aeromotive the same as what I have, and confirmed that it's good with Ethanol. I've also looked at one from Fuelab, but I'd have to get a new bracket from CJ Motorsports that works with either Fuelab or Aeromotive and I'm trying to do this as cheap as possible since it's all about cosmetics. I was also reading a story on the Adaptronic website about how different fuel pressure regulators and they didn't rate them all for fear of burning bridges, but they did list the best and worst...best being the TurboSmart FPR2000 and the worst being the stock FD regulator lol. So I was also thinking if I'm going to swap it, I might want to go with the best one...but I also wonder if they're not just saying that because TurboSmart is another Australian company. So I'm not 100% if I can trust their word, but I'm also probably not going to get a bunch of different ones to test for myself either lol.
http://www.adaptronic.com.au/fuel-press ... ifference/

I am running the 8/6 swift springs and the car rides amazing. It's smooth and firm. The car handles well and the balance seems pretty good. I have also hit some large bumps at high rates of speed and I am using the whole suspension travel and not bottoming from what I can tell. No super hard thunks or anything like that.

The car being a street car is much more liveable with softer rates springs and the softer springs grip better as they are much more compliant with the rode. its also easier to drive the car fast, it also is super smooth at high rates of speeds, so smooth that I can basically drive flat out anywhere on the canyon roads. the 11/11 was much more dicey and liked to move around a lot more. More of a darty feeling which I don't particularly like. Its also a lot rougher on the side roads and I thought the grip was a little lower than the softer set up.

I think a good mix between all of these would be a 8/6, 8/7, 9/7, 9/8 set up. if you want to go super aggressive upper limit maybe a 10/8 or 10/9 would be the outer limit for someone with some downforce or something. tough to tell. The 8/6 with a super stiff shock setting still rides well, and was much better than I thought. I ended up with a 12/12 shock setting which seems pretty nice and firm yet soft enough to street drive.

I say try the stock 11/11 and see if you like it. I like soft springs and higher critical to damping ratio for the shocks, so soft springs and stiff shocks. It's a firm ride with softness when hitting bumps. left and right turning/handling seems very good, and the car "settles" into turns much different than the high spring rates.

[speedjunkie]

At this point I'm pretty sure I'm going with softer springs because of your experiences with them, but I also wondered if stiffer springs were better for road course since they most likely won't have the bumps that a canyon road will have. Part of the reason I wanted these coilovers was because I wanted a smoother ride on the street and heard that these almost ride like a Cadillac lol, but I also heard they were really good for the track too. I don't want to go too low on the spring rates because of the valving limit, and I'm still looking for that info. I'd seen it before but now I can't remember where.

I'd like to copy your setup exactly since it works for you, but I plan on also doing road course and I want to have a balance for that as well. Also, I plan on doing aero next, so hopefully that will help. Either way, I plan on going with a lower rate, I just don't want to go too low.

[lOOkatme]

softer springs give more grip, but it also depends on the driver preferences. I like softer spring rates, because the car rides smoother and feels more compliant on straights and turns. A lot is going to depend on the grip of the tires you are going to run. race tires require more spring rate, aero requires low ride heights and more spring rate.

I run street tires on a non-aggressive ride height compared to many race cars. so 8/6 works for me. I think if you want to step up to a more aggressive rate I would probably try 9/7 or outer limit 10/8. If you like the rear a little stiffer 9/8 would be a pretty good set up, or 10/9 with race tires.


I found a website that is a spring rate calculator to ball park our cars. our motion ratio for the front is .6, rear is .68. I am guessing corner weight is around 715lbs, or 2860lbs with (1) 220lbs person driving it. I used 70lbs wheel/unsprung weight.

The shock travel in the front of the ohlins is 4.1", so it recommends these rates.

daily driver 400lbs/in
performance driving like autox or road course 425lbs/in
Racing 475lbs/in

The shock travel in the rear is 3.6" and choosing the rear with 715lbs corner weight and 70lbs unsprung weight they recommend
daily driver 250lbs/in
performance driving like autox and road course 300lbs/in
racing 325lbs/in

I am running 448/336 lbs/in front and rear.This also keeps the stock front and rear spring rate bias as stock so I am running the stock sway bars.

If you are running race tires I would probably go up (1) spring rate, 9/7. if I were running race tires (hoosiers) and areo with lower ride heights, 10/11 front might be good with a 8/9 rear.

[speedjunkie]

softer springs give more grip, but it also depends on the driver preferences. I like softer spring rates, because the car rides smoother and feels more compliant on straights and turns. A lot is going to depend on the grip of the tires you are going to run. race tires require more spring rate, aero requires low ride heights and more spring rate.

I run street tires on a non-aggressive ride height compared to many race cars. so 8/6 works for me. I think if you want to step up to a more aggressive rate I would probably try 9/7 or outer limit 10/8. If you like the rear a little stiffer 9/8 would be a pretty good set up, or 10/9 with race tires.


I found a website that is a spring rate calculator to ball park our cars. our motion ratio for the front is .6, rear is .68. I am guessing corner weight is around 715lbs, or 2860lbs with (1) 220lbs person driving it. I used 70lbs wheel/unsprung weight.

The shock travel in the front of the ohlins is 4.1", so it recommends these rates.

daily driver 400lbs/in
performance driving like autox or road course 425lbs/in
Racing 475lbs/in

The shock travel in the rear is 3.6" and choosing the rear with 715lbs corner weight and 70lbs unsprung weight they recommend
daily driver 250lbs/in
performance driving like autox and road course 300lbs/in
racing 325lbs/in

I am running 448/336 lbs/in front and rear.This also keeps the stock front and rear spring rate bias as stock so I am running the stock sway bars.

If you are running race tires I would probably go up (1) spring rate, 9/7. if I were running race tires (hoosiers) and areo with lower ride heights, 10/11 front might be good with a 8/9 rear.

Yeah I remember you saying that, and I believe you and trust your judgement lol. I'm mainly just concerned with going too low in spring rate for the valving of the struts. I'm thinking about just staying with AD08s, or the Rs since they are the replacement. However, I like your tires too, they seem really sticky. And I know what they'll be like with your size tire and width wheel. I'm not sure I want to stretch quite as much as you are, not that it's a lot. But your setup works really well, so we'll see lol. As far as ride height, I'm not even really sure how low I am compared to stock haha. I guess I could measure from the bottom of the car, but measuring by the wheel arches won't work. Like I told you on the phone, I have no idea what differences feel like haha, so I have no idea if I'd like the rear springs stiffer. But I'll ride in your car and then mine and compare.

I need to learn more about suspension haha. What is motion ratio? Is that how body roll is measured? So from those findings it looks like I need to run race tires and aero and lower the car...at least that's what I'm telling myself lol.


I got more texts from Chris today. He asked which springs I had in the wastegates and I told him I would ask Zico to send the other springs (I bought all the different rates at once when I had this problem before), so Z is planning on overnighting those after work tonight if he gets off in time. He said he found some issues with the way the wastegates were plumbed and fixed those. I'm really hoping it wasn't the hardlines haha. He said it still hit 18psi boost cut in third. He also said it runs about 16psi in 2nd with the gates opening, and it hits 18psi in 3rd with the boost control solenoid turned off. And here is my favorite one...he said it hits 18psi by 3400RPMs in 3rd, and he said that's pretty impressive lol. I said I assumed he was cutting it off at 18psi since it was on pump gas and asked if I could turn it up on E85 or if I'd be stuck at 18 still. He said I would be able to increase it later, but he's trying to get it to hold stable boost so he can start tuning, and that he'd rather start at 10psi but he needs the lighter springs. He said he really didn't want to remove the wastegates, and I completely agree lol, I always hate that.


Oh yeah, I also bought Eduardo's Banzai Racing transmission brace. But I still need to swap back to normal engine mounts before I put it on, and before I swap to normal engine mounts I need to get the cross bar for the new strut bar remade to go around the UIM.