I checked with Aeromotive and they said their Stealth 340 is not good for E85. They said they have another one that will work, so I'm checking out those and possibly the one from AEM which I can get for $115 on Amazon.
Another thing I hadn't thought about was making sure the wiring I got for inside the tank is good for E85 also. I know it's good for fuel, and I'd think it's good for Ethanol too but I'm going to check just to make sure. That's not something I want to risk.
Build thread
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speedjunkie
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speedjunkie
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I checked with ProWire about the wire I got for in-tank use and they said it's good for E85.
For the fuel rail, I'm going to have Tom mill the two extra injector ports and I just talked to Ximpak about hard anodizing the rails. They said they have to etch the rails to get the old anodizing off and that it removes a little bit of material, but as long as it's not too much the oring on the injector should take care of it. And I'm going to get them done in black this time, of course lol. As long as they can do that, I might just have the in-tank surge tank made of aluminum still and have that hard anodized at the same time to save some money and also save some weight on the tank, rather than doing it in stainless steel.
I'm still researching which fuel pump to get. I can get the AEM 50-1200 for $115 each on Amazon, but it's pretty much the same as the Aeromotive I have right now and they don't have great reviews I guess. Although the only other one I was looking at was the Walbro 485 and I've heard bad reviews on Walbros too. So I'm really not sure what to do.
For the fuel rail, I'm going to have Tom mill the two extra injector ports and I just talked to Ximpak about hard anodizing the rails. They said they have to etch the rails to get the old anodizing off and that it removes a little bit of material, but as long as it's not too much the oring on the injector should take care of it. And I'm going to get them done in black this time, of course lol. As long as they can do that, I might just have the in-tank surge tank made of aluminum still and have that hard anodized at the same time to save some money and also save some weight on the tank, rather than doing it in stainless steel.
I'm still researching which fuel pump to get. I can get the AEM 50-1200 for $115 each on Amazon, but it's pretty much the same as the Aeromotive I have right now and they don't have great reviews I guess. Although the only other one I was looking at was the Walbro 485 and I've heard bad reviews on Walbros too. So I'm really not sure what to do.
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speedjunkie
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I'll be heading home before too long, so I'm trying to tie up loose ends.
One of the guys in Denver was posting on facebook about his coolant fan wiring, so I'm going to look into that when I get back to see if I can figure out that problem.
Several days ago I got a message from the guy I bought the center AC vent from. He said he broke it while taking it out of the dash. ARGH! He said he'd refund my money but I guess he forgot and I hadn't thought to look until a few days ago and noticed it hadn't been refunded yet. I got a weird feeling back when he first told me that he found someone who would offer more money for it, but he felt really bad for not refunding my money right away and he did that, then I told him I could probably still use the broken vent and he's going to send it to me. I also asked Mike B but he doesn't want to separate one from a dash so I'm going to see if I can make the broken one work first by using pieces from it. All I need is one of the slats anyway. As long as it's still intact and I can swap it by itself, it should work. And I'm trying to do that while I have the dash out again obviously. I've also thought about wrapping all the ducting behind the dash in heat tape or some kind of thermal barrier to aid in keeping cold air cold and hot air hot, but I'm probably just being very anal retentive at this point lol.
An old thread about Ganador mirrors on 7club where I'd posted before has been popping up again recently and I learned that NRG made some knockoff Ganador mirrors but for LHD FDs. I checked into it, and wouldn't you know, they're discontinued now. DAMMIT! They didn't have motors so they were by hand adjustment only, and the body was CF, but I still would have totally gotten some as long as they were functional. They were lighter than real Ganadors too. I read that they're discontinuted because of copyright issues. I guess I'll see if I can email Ganador and see if they would be willing to make LHD ones. I'm not holding my breathe on that lol.
I need to find a place that sells SS hardline and fittings. I'd prefer a local place so shipping won't be an issue but I'll have it shipped if I have to. I want to make some hardlines for the boost control solenoid. I'm also thinking of reinstalling the solenoid that came on the turbo and use that one instead to simplify my setup even more. Chris can wire that connector in.
I noticed in Adam Griffith's build thread on 7club that he has a small filter in his turbo oil feed line, not a bad idea and something I'd never thought of. I sent an email to Raffi at Full Race who I'd talked to when I bought my turbo to see if he suggests doing that or skipping it. My only concern is hindering flow to the turbo somehow.
One of the guys in Denver was posting on facebook about his coolant fan wiring, so I'm going to look into that when I get back to see if I can figure out that problem.
Several days ago I got a message from the guy I bought the center AC vent from. He said he broke it while taking it out of the dash. ARGH! He said he'd refund my money but I guess he forgot and I hadn't thought to look until a few days ago and noticed it hadn't been refunded yet. I got a weird feeling back when he first told me that he found someone who would offer more money for it, but he felt really bad for not refunding my money right away and he did that, then I told him I could probably still use the broken vent and he's going to send it to me. I also asked Mike B but he doesn't want to separate one from a dash so I'm going to see if I can make the broken one work first by using pieces from it. All I need is one of the slats anyway. As long as it's still intact and I can swap it by itself, it should work. And I'm trying to do that while I have the dash out again obviously. I've also thought about wrapping all the ducting behind the dash in heat tape or some kind of thermal barrier to aid in keeping cold air cold and hot air hot, but I'm probably just being very anal retentive at this point lol.
An old thread about Ganador mirrors on 7club where I'd posted before has been popping up again recently and I learned that NRG made some knockoff Ganador mirrors but for LHD FDs. I checked into it, and wouldn't you know, they're discontinued now. DAMMIT! They didn't have motors so they were by hand adjustment only, and the body was CF, but I still would have totally gotten some as long as they were functional. They were lighter than real Ganadors too. I read that they're discontinuted because of copyright issues. I guess I'll see if I can email Ganador and see if they would be willing to make LHD ones. I'm not holding my breathe on that lol.
I need to find a place that sells SS hardline and fittings. I'd prefer a local place so shipping won't be an issue but I'll have it shipped if I have to. I want to make some hardlines for the boost control solenoid. I'm also thinking of reinstalling the solenoid that came on the turbo and use that one instead to simplify my setup even more. Chris can wire that connector in.
I noticed in Adam Griffith's build thread on 7club that he has a small filter in his turbo oil feed line, not a bad idea and something I'd never thought of. I sent an email to Raffi at Full Race who I'd talked to when I bought my turbo to see if he suggests doing that or skipping it. My only concern is hindering flow to the turbo somehow.
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speedjunkie
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speedjunkie
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I got back yesterday afternoon and started working a little last night lol. I stripped down the JDM UIM. I took some pics of some of the parts I got but I'll finish and post them up tomorrow. I worked on the car a bit today too. The dash is just about ready to come out. I took the seats out, and I'm taking the rear bins out. I also removed the UIM off the engine.
Tomorrow I'm going to Denver to get the non-rear wiper hatch from Mike Tabares and I'll try to work on putting the ABS sensors back in, pull the dash out and maybe replace the harnesses. I also want to relocate the relay/fuse boxes. Mitch is supposed to come over tomorrow and start on the IC end tanks too. I might go ahead and pull the rear bins tonight and install the new push button Klixon circuit breakers. I also still need to buy a 51R battery, order the spark plugs, get a more compact IC pipe to come off the turbo and a couple fuel pumps, along with several other things lol.
Tomorrow I'm going to Denver to get the non-rear wiper hatch from Mike Tabares and I'll try to work on putting the ABS sensors back in, pull the dash out and maybe replace the harnesses. I also want to relocate the relay/fuse boxes. Mitch is supposed to come over tomorrow and start on the IC end tanks too. I might go ahead and pull the rear bins tonight and install the new push button Klixon circuit breakers. I also still need to buy a 51R battery, order the spark plugs, get a more compact IC pipe to come off the turbo and a couple fuel pumps, along with several other things lol.
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RX-7 Chris
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I might be able to help you with the floor anchors next weekend. Also we can look at the electrical. Next weekend will probably be my only chance to help until we are settled into a new house.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
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speedjunkie
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Well, now I'm not in such a hurry to do that stuff because I have to get the car finished in two weeks now lol. For the first time ever I met someone on deployment and she's coming back in two weeks so I need to have the car finished and the house/garage/yard cleaned so we have the two weeks after that to hang out lol. Then I take the car to Indiana and go home for May, then to Vegas for the month of June. Although there is a new Syvecs ECU coming out (well, a modified current version), S6 Plus, that might be cheaper and still have all the same options as the S8, so Chris might be suggesting to wait until that comes out or at least until we have more info on it as far as price and availability. I also have to get the trailer all fixed for the trip to Indiana.
So, I'll probably end up waiting on that stuff, but I'll let you know for sure haha. Thanks!
Today I went to Denver and picked up the hatch from Mike. I didn't realize he took the glass out lol. I got home and installed the three Klixon CBs for the water injection, finished getting the dash ready to pull out, pulled the rear bins, swapped the AVC-R boost control solenoid for the one that originally came on the EFR, and noticed that my new strut bar might not work because it sits about 1/8" above the front runner of the UIM, and if my engine mounts flex too much it might hit. The mounts are delrin though so they should be good. I wanted to swap in the Noltec mounts again and get a Banzai transmission brace, but I won't be able to do that now, at least until I figure something out with the strut bar.
So, I'll probably end up waiting on that stuff, but I'll let you know for sure haha. Thanks!
Today I went to Denver and picked up the hatch from Mike. I didn't realize he took the glass out lol. I got home and installed the three Klixon CBs for the water injection, finished getting the dash ready to pull out, pulled the rear bins, swapped the AVC-R boost control solenoid for the one that originally came on the EFR, and noticed that my new strut bar might not work because it sits about 1/8" above the front runner of the UIM, and if my engine mounts flex too much it might hit. The mounts are delrin though so they should be good. I wanted to swap in the Noltec mounts again and get a Banzai transmission brace, but I won't be able to do that now, at least until I figure something out with the strut bar.
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RX-7 Chris
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We need to have a meet soon. It's been a while since I've been out, lol.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
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speedjunkie
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You're telling me haha. I'm dying for this to be a summer 2008 repeat lol. I have a lot of work to do though.
Today I reinstalled the ABS sensors, pulled the rest of the EBC setup, pulled the turbo timer, Zico and I pulled the dash and broke it and one of the HVAC ducts lol, finished swapping the Klixon push/pull CBs, and I started pulling the harness starting inside the car. That's a nightmare already lol. Also, the replacement harness I got I believe I will be returning. It has missing connectors, broken wires, generally in bad shape. One of the missing connectors along with looking like it was ripped off is the MAP sensor connector. So at this point I plan to just pull mine, strip it, test all the wires and repair anything broken I find. And when I reinstall it I'll relocate the relay/fuse boxes.
Last night I bought two Walbro E85 pumps and the stuff from Full Race that I thought I bought a month ago (pig tail for the boost control solenoid, boost line, and the turbo speed sensor), and tried to order the spark plugs from NAPA since O'Reilly isn't listing them anymore. I bought a yellow top Optima 51R battery the other night, too. As soon as I get the battery I can build the new battery bracket, install it, and put the rear bins back in.
I'm also thinking I'll have enough money to do the brakes and suspension right now, as opposed to waiting to buy the springs and brake pads. I'm planning on getting Carbotech AX6 pads and if they're not enough on the front I'll step up one. The springs...I've always wanted Swift springs, and I figure now is as good a time as any, although I hear great things about the springs that come on the Ohlins too, so I've been torn. The Swift springs should be lighter because they don't use as much material, and that's because the material they use is stronger and they don't sag as much over time as other springs. However, I COULD run the Ohlins springs first and see how I like them. I'd rather just do it all at once though.
Today I reinstalled the ABS sensors, pulled the rest of the EBC setup, pulled the turbo timer, Zico and I pulled the dash and broke it and one of the HVAC ducts lol, finished swapping the Klixon push/pull CBs, and I started pulling the harness starting inside the car. That's a nightmare already lol. Also, the replacement harness I got I believe I will be returning. It has missing connectors, broken wires, generally in bad shape. One of the missing connectors along with looking like it was ripped off is the MAP sensor connector. So at this point I plan to just pull mine, strip it, test all the wires and repair anything broken I find. And when I reinstall it I'll relocate the relay/fuse boxes.
Last night I bought two Walbro E85 pumps and the stuff from Full Race that I thought I bought a month ago (pig tail for the boost control solenoid, boost line, and the turbo speed sensor), and tried to order the spark plugs from NAPA since O'Reilly isn't listing them anymore. I bought a yellow top Optima 51R battery the other night, too. As soon as I get the battery I can build the new battery bracket, install it, and put the rear bins back in.
I'm also thinking I'll have enough money to do the brakes and suspension right now, as opposed to waiting to buy the springs and brake pads. I'm planning on getting Carbotech AX6 pads and if they're not enough on the front I'll step up one. The springs...I've always wanted Swift springs, and I figure now is as good a time as any, although I hear great things about the springs that come on the Ohlins too, so I've been torn. The Swift springs should be lighter because they don't use as much material, and that's because the material they use is stronger and they don't sag as much over time as other springs. However, I COULD run the Ohlins springs first and see how I like them. I'd rather just do it all at once though.
I can't compare Swift Springs to Ohlin Springs, but I really like the Swift Springs over the factory springs on my S2k.
welcome back.
Congratulations on meeting a girl. I knew you could do it!
That is a quick timeline on your car, but you can pull it off.
What do you need to so for the trailer? Could do a volunteer yard/garage clean up day too. I don't trust me to work on your car. It seems fragile
welcome back.
Congratulations on meeting a girl. I knew you could do it!
That is a quick timeline on your car, but you can pull it off.
What do you need to so for the trailer? Could do a volunteer yard/garage clean up day too. I don't trust me to work on your car. It seems fragile
I would run the ohlins as is. I don't think the springs will be THAT big of a difference unless you switching spring rates.
Obviously on mine I swapped spring rates. but with the DFV, I think you need pretty stiff springs because you depend more on the spring rate when the valve opens on a large bump.
Obviously on mine I swapped spring rates. but with the DFV, I think you need pretty stiff springs because you depend more on the spring rate when the valve opens on a large bump.
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speedjunkie
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I went to Denver today and tried out some seats at Wine Country Motorsports. They have a great selection of seats, helmets, suits, gloves, GoPros, you name it. I already had it pretty narrowed down to the Sparco EVO II and the Cobra Suzuka Pro GT, but they didn't have that exact Cobra so I sat in the Sebring Pro Fit XL, which is similar in size to the Suzuka. The EVO II was way tighter at the hips than I remember, but the Cobra fit like a dream. The Suzuka is 1/4" tighter at the hips than the Sebring, but I slid into that seat very easily so they said I should have no problem with the Suzuka. They are $850 through them and I figured it was only right to buy them there since they let me try them out, so as soon as I have enough money, I'll get those.
I also stopped by 3R Racing to get some stuff and they had some NICE race cars in their huge bay. Wow. I was surprised. I was looking for the swage-lok type fittings for the Flex Fuel sensor, but I walked out with the ones that clip on instead since that's all they had. I'd rather have the other ones, but I'm not sure I'll find any on short notice.
Supposedly the Ohlins springs are rebadged Eibach springs, so they should be good too. But the Swift springs will shave even more weight and they have a killer track record.
Thanks!
Yeah I'm not sure if things are going to work with this one yet. She's a good bit younger than me and while we are alike in many ways, we're different in a very important one. But we will see where it goes. We're going to spend some time together when she gets back and see how we do.
Yeah, very quick timeline. And I'm really not sure I'll be able to pull this off. I was making good progress in the first couple days back, but I have the harness almost pulled out now and I'm REALLY not looking forward to doing what I need to do with it lol. I'd rather have a known good harness to go back in, but I'll have to check this one out.
The trailer has a bad master cylinder and I can't find a replacement. I talked to Uhaul and they told me to contact Hickman Trailers here in town, and they said they can't get a replacement and it would be cheaper to go electric. I'd rather not do that since I have the hookups I need already for this one, which is why I bought it. I have to do so much to get this trailer good enough to sell, but I've only used it twice and if I can't even use it to take my car back, I don't see much point in keeping it.
No I don't want anyone putting themselves out to help me clean up lol. This is my mess...well, mine and Zico's lol. Thanks though! Whatever I don't get finished with, oh well!
I've thought about it, and I may still do that. But I like decreasing the unsprung weight as much as possible and I feel that with the Swift springs I'll finally have my dream coilover combo lol. I mean, some three way adjustables would be better I guess, but I'm not spending that kind of money, not yet anyway haha. I never thought I'd spend so much on an ECU either lol.
However, I also thought maybe they would be better with the springs they came with simply because it's all in one package and why would they sell it if they found a better combo? But the manufacturing process and materials used on the Swifts make them more desirable. Oh, and I was planning on doing a two kg difference front and rear. I believe these coilovers are 11k front and rear. I was thinking 12f and 10r like my current ones. I do hate to switch to something else without trying the Ohlins springs first, even if only for the sake of comparison, but I don't feel like pulling them out and swapping either after they're already installed lol.
I also stopped by 3R Racing to get some stuff and they had some NICE race cars in their huge bay. Wow. I was surprised. I was looking for the swage-lok type fittings for the Flex Fuel sensor, but I walked out with the ones that clip on instead since that's all they had. I'd rather have the other ones, but I'm not sure I'll find any on short notice.
Shadowden wrote:I can't compare Swift Springs to Ohlin Springs, but I really like the Swift Springs over the factory springs on my S2k.
welcome back.
Congratulations on meeting a girl. I knew you could do it!
That is a quick timeline on your car, but you can pull it off.
What do you need to so for the trailer? Could do a volunteer yard/garage clean up day too. I don't trust me to work on your car. It seems fragile
Supposedly the Ohlins springs are rebadged Eibach springs, so they should be good too. But the Swift springs will shave even more weight and they have a killer track record.
Thanks!
Yeah I'm not sure if things are going to work with this one yet. She's a good bit younger than me and while we are alike in many ways, we're different in a very important one. But we will see where it goes. We're going to spend some time together when she gets back and see how we do.
Yeah, very quick timeline. And I'm really not sure I'll be able to pull this off. I was making good progress in the first couple days back, but I have the harness almost pulled out now and I'm REALLY not looking forward to doing what I need to do with it lol. I'd rather have a known good harness to go back in, but I'll have to check this one out.
The trailer has a bad master cylinder and I can't find a replacement. I talked to Uhaul and they told me to contact Hickman Trailers here in town, and they said they can't get a replacement and it would be cheaper to go electric. I'd rather not do that since I have the hookups I need already for this one, which is why I bought it. I have to do so much to get this trailer good enough to sell, but I've only used it twice and if I can't even use it to take my car back, I don't see much point in keeping it.
No I don't want anyone putting themselves out to help me clean up lol. This is my mess...well, mine and Zico's lol. Thanks though! Whatever I don't get finished with, oh well!
lOOkatme wrote:I would run the ohlins as is. I don't think the springs will be THAT big of a difference unless you switching spring rates.
Obviously on mine I swapped spring rates. but with the DFV, I think you need pretty stiff springs because you depend more on the spring rate when the valve opens on a large bump.
I've thought about it, and I may still do that. But I like decreasing the unsprung weight as much as possible and I feel that with the Swift springs I'll finally have my dream coilover combo lol. I mean, some three way adjustables would be better I guess, but I'm not spending that kind of money, not yet anyway haha. I never thought I'd spend so much on an ECU either lol.
However, I also thought maybe they would be better with the springs they came with simply because it's all in one package and why would they sell it if they found a better combo? But the manufacturing process and materials used on the Swifts make them more desirable. Oh, and I was planning on doing a two kg difference front and rear. I believe these coilovers are 11k front and rear. I was thinking 12f and 10r like my current ones. I do hate to switch to something else without trying the Ohlins springs first, even if only for the sake of comparison, but I don't feel like pulling them out and swapping either after they're already installed lol.
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speedjunkie
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lOOkatme wrote:Go to a three way adjustable coilover and sell me those ohlins DFV's. You know I am eyeing those things like a hawk!
Yeah right lol. I'm not parting with these lol.
Saul_Good wrote:All i saw was 'met a girl'. Nooooo, they ruin project deadlines :P
Well I may have spoken too soon. She's barely talking to me now, so she might be losing interest already. I won't know for sure until she gets back next week, but I'm pretty much giving up already and hoping for the opposite lol. Either way, I'm pretty bummed these days.
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