Build thread

Postby **RX-7 Chris** » Thu Jul 31, 2014 9:14

looks clean.

did you end up having your transmission rebuilt?

FDEEZ · Postby **FDEEZ** » Thu Jul 31, 2014 9:14

I've been to the Deid a few times as well. I can't believe how far that place has progressed through the years. It's funny that some Services take their R&R there.

The fuel lines look great. Are you going to pressure test them before installing?

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Thu Jul 31, 2014 9:14

RX-7 Chris wrote:looks clean.

did you end up having your transmission rebuilt?

Thanks!

Yep. Took it to Precision Standards down off 8th street. $200. I'll let you know if it's good or not lol.

FDEEZ wrote:I've been to the Deid a few times as well. I can't believe how far that place has progressed through the years. It's funny that some Services take their R&R there.

The fuel lines look great. Are you going to pressure test them before installing?

My first time there was in 09, then in 10, and 11 as well. I don't ever want to go back lol. I went through an entire year there, all the months covered by the different tours. SOOOOO freakin humid. I've heard it's come a long way though. Although I hear it's like a ghost town now. Yeah I think it's weird they R&R there too. But considering where they work...lol.

Thanks! Well, I'm not sure how I'd do that, and I already installed them lol. I'm going to pressure test them through normal operation though, and before driving the car. The other night I tested the tool on a scrap piece of line and I put the fitting on and filled it with water and it didn't leak, then I blew into the line and it didn't leak, although blowing into the line is probably useless considering the difference in pressure between that and actual usage. Luckily it's not direct injection, so it should only see 38psi at the lowest and probably about 70 something at the highest. I thought about going with a different fitting that is way easier to install and doesn't require flaring, but it's only guaranteed up to 55psi.

Tonight I ran the AEM coil harness through the firewall using the OEM engine harness boot and hole. I taped up the ends of the boot to seal it again, and I plan on wrapping the engine bay side with reflective heat barrier tape. I started cleaning the tranny again with a cleaning agent and a wire wheel, and it looks like the wire wheel is practically polishing the tranny lol. I have a long way to go, that's a Saturday type project since it's going to take a while. I'm not trying to polish it, just clean it, but you get what you get I guess. That's the easiest way I can think of to clean it. Jesse came over and looked at my rotors because I think the ones that came out of the recent engine are toast, unless someone wants to use them for 3mm seals. The seals pushed back and forth and now the seal grooves are pushed out towards the top, like it started to V, and there is a lip on the edges of the seal grooves. So I showed him the ones from the new engine and they're OK but one of them was dropped I think because I can't get a corner seal into one of the holes because the end of the apex seal groove is bent down. Jesse said he knows of a tool that will punch it back out so I'm going to look for that. Once that's done, I guess I'm ready to build the engine.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:14

Did some more work on the car today, I'll see if I can remember everything.

I remade two of the brake lines because I didn't like how they turned out. I put some brake fluid in the reservoir and I noticed a different line is leaking now, so I guess I'll have to remake that one too. I started running a wire bundle back into the engine bay that contains the SPA sensor wires and water injection wiring, but I wanted to check the brake fluid situation first before putting a bunch of stuff in the way, so I stopped. I'll be moving the water injection relay and fuse (which I'm changing to a circuit breaker) into the cabin down by the clutch pedal to get it out of the engine bay. I wrapped most of the AEM coil harness with heat wrap. I tucked the fan relays and noticed the connectors had a lot of corrosion in them, so I think I'll clean those out before installing the fenders. Then I installed the headlights.

Tomorrow I think I'll take out the Kenne Bell BAP and install the fuel hanger and wiring, and bleed the brakes to see if I have any more leaks after remaking the other line.

I'm broke right now so I have to wait until next payday to buy the rest of the stuff I need for other projects lol. I have to also see if I can repair one of the rotors because it looks like it was dropped and a corner seal groove is out of round and the seal won't go into it. Jesse said Tri Point Engineering used to have a tap for it and they were his neighbors back in Cali, so that looks promising.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sun Aug 03, 2014 9:14

I pulled the Kenne Bell BAP out today, so that will be up for sale. And I got about half way through wiring the relays and everything for the fuel system. It's a nightmare lol. And I still need to get the pressure sensors and adapter fittings, and all the other fuel lines to finish the fuel system. And I'm really not sure how I'm gonna fit the new fuel filter behind the UIM, or anywhere else for that matter. It's larger than I thought it was from the dimensions. I also hooked up the passenger side grounding block for all the electronics, etc.

I checked the brake line that was leaking yesterday and it didn't show any fluid today, so maybe it's not leaking. I still need to pressurize the system though and bleed the brakes.

I was also doing some reading about the Full Function Engineering crank trigger kit and I'm wondering about getting that sometime soon as well. Then maybe have Rywire make me a harness and see if they can incorporate the AEM coil wires into it.

Also, Zico was cleaning up on his side of the garage the other day and found the NTech brake ducting plates and I checked to see how they fit on the upgraded rotors I'll be using, they fit pretty well. However, one of the brake rotors I got has a dinked up a on the end of the Mazda logo, and if anyone knows me it's how picky I am. On this it's because I was planning on doing the new brakes like the old ones, painting them black and polishing off the "Mazda"), so I asked Andy to find me another set.

I still haven't heard from Tom about the water pump housing. I'm starting to get worried. Although I don't have the money to pay for it yet anyway so no biggie lol. And when I go to pick it up, I'll sandblast it and the front cover while I'm there, and then drop off the housing to get powdercoated. I already have the irons and housings painted and/or cleared, so those are all ready to go. Once I figure out the rotor situation, I'll press in the new bearings into the rotors and stationary gears, and it should be ready to build.

I was also looking at an old VMIC radiator and the AC condenser and I'm thinking of ways to modify it all together to make it easier to mount and also have ducting all in one. We'll see how this transpires. Knowing me, it probably won't lol.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Mon Aug 04, 2014 9:14

I did a little more work on the fuel pump wiring tonight and got practically nowhere lol.

FDEEZ · Postby **FDEEZ** » Tue Aug 05, 2014 9:14

What issues are you running into IRT the fuel pump wiring?

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Tue Aug 05, 2014 9:14

Not really issues, other than hating wiring lol. I just felt like I got nothing done. But tonight I pretty much finished it up. I'm taking it to work tomorrow to solder on the terminals that will snap into the connector, and I have to get another Aeromotive pump and the wiring harness for both pumps and solder those into the inner connector, and run the two smaller power wires and grounds for the indicator lights. Oh and wire in the pressure sensors when I get them. Then I'll probably wait to do a surge tank until later but we'll see.

FDEEZ · Postby **FDEEZ** » Wed Aug 06, 2014 9:14

That sounds like a ton of work! Where are you mounting the indicator lights? Are they just to tell you if the pumps are on or are they warning lights to tell you if fuel pressure is low? Also are you running a filter both before and after the pumps?

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Wed Aug 06, 2014 9:14

It was a ton of work, but luckily the only thing I need to wire in now are the fuel pressure sensors, OR I could just run it the way it is right now. But I'd rather have those sensors in there.

I was thinking about mounting the indicator lights on the steering column cover but I wasn't sure if there was enough room. I put them into the bottom DIN panel that already holds the AVC-R, tuning cables, and low washer fluid indicator. I didn't do a great job on it though, it looks kinda janky lol. I might make yet another new panel at some point, but for now it's staying the way it is.

As of right now the lights will tell me if I lose power to the fuel pumps, but once I have the pressure sensors in there it will tell me if I lose pressure too. I already have a fuel pressure gauge in the car and one on the FPR, so I was thinking this might be overkill. But with two pumps that are each capable of supplying the HP I'll have, or near it anyway, it would be hard to tell (if noticeable at all) to tell if a pump goes out or loses power, so I think this is pretty much mandatory for as much of a failproof system as possible.

I'm planning on running just the pre-filter socks on the pumps and then a 10 micron filter right before the fuel rails, but it still depends on the surge tank setup I end up using and if the filter fits behind the UIM lol. If I use the HPP surge tank that I got a while back, it has filters in line between the tank and the pumps, but I'll have to rig up some way to hook up the hoses to the Stealth pumps. If I do it pretty much any other way, it will probably just be the pre-filter socks.

I took the fuel pump wiring and relays to work today and soldered the ends on the wires for the pump hanger connector and snapped them in, and then checked continuity on everything. I installed that tonight and ran the wires to the indicator lights and installed those too.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Thu Aug 07, 2014 9:14

Did some work tonight, and got nowhere. Zico came over and we tested the brake lines, one of them failed. Before that I rebuilt it because it wasn't even holding the brake fluid without pressure, so I knew it wouldn't last with pressure. I rebuilt it and that one failed. I rebuilt it again, and it held...a little better, before it failed also, but not quite as bad as it's predecessor. So, I'm thinking about getting the Eastwood flaring tool, because everything else seems to be crap. It's a horrible design to use to flare a line. I even had an idea that would be an improvement. Here is the Eastwood tool. It's pricy, but considering what's at stake, I think it's worth it, and I wish I'd bought it to use this time.

http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html?fee=5&fep=2834&srccode=ga220010&gclid=Cj0KEQjwx4yfBRCt2rrAs-P5vtkBEiQAOdFXbTkOWszVsWkH_rAKMumbjWxP6NSOStwPvkhxQ1EDNLUaApGP8P8HAQ

FDEEZ · Postby **FDEEZ** » Fri Aug 08, 2014 9:14

Are your brake fittings metric or standard? Also, what kind of a flare are you creating on the lines?

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Fri Aug 08, 2014 9:14

I'm using metric to mate up with all the stock stuff, but I had to use a standard t-fitting to link the front lines together. I didn't feel like waiting for a metric one lol.

I didn't do anything on the car tonight. Mom and I went to a co-worker's house for dinner. Maybe tomorrow.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:14

I'm about to lose my damn mind with this brake line. I made another one tonight with probably the best flares I've made thus far and it leaked as bad or worse than before. AND it got on my fresh paint. I dumped water all over where it spilled because I can't get my hand in there, hoping it diluted it enough. I'm starting to wonder if there is something wrong with the tee fitting.

FDEEZ · Postby **FDEEZ** » Mon Aug 11, 2014 9:14

Are you using two different flares for the metric & standard fittings? In other words, are you having to create both bubble (metric side) and double (standard side) flares? If so, which flare is failing...the bubble or double flare?

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