New FD in Town!

Talk about your Rotaries!
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VRx8
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Location: San Antonio, TX

Postby VRx8 » Fri Sep 07, 2012 9:14

Yeah everything is good lol. Im just saying whenever this engine decides to take a vacation. Im trying to buy another engine to have it as a spare. Next engine is going to be a little bit more aggressive ( half bridge ).

Pretty good deal lets put it this way, if i rebuild the guts of the clutch is not even close to half of the MSRP price lol and comes with counterweight.

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Fri Sep 07, 2012 9:14

Wow that is a good deal. I'm trying to save up and piece together a spare motor as well. If I find some good housings or some that can be saved with the Goopy refinishing, I'll snap 'em up. Same with irons, they can be lapped and re nitrated.
:eek:

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VRx8
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Postby VRx8 » Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:14

Im officially out of Colorado. Just wanted to say thanks to all you rotary guys. Dave ( chickenwafer) thank you so much for your help, for helping me get the 7 and all the tuning lol. Eric (speedjunkie) thanks for your datalogit and ... thats about it lol just kidding. Really had a great time and learned a lot from you guys. Zico, Morris and Jr, Angel, Oscar, Frank, Matt, Chris thanks to all you guys

It was really my plasure to meet you guys and get to spent time together. I'll be down in San Antonio TX just halla. I will keep posting here and keep touch with you guys

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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:14

Damn you lol. Sucks that you're gone man. And um, where is my fender roller? LOL jk I'll hit you up if I ever make it down that way, and do the same if you come back here.
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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:14

You suck bro! You just move like that! Haha did the military move ya? For sure keep in touch man.
:eek:

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VRx8
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Postby VRx8 » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:14

^^ Im just running away from the cold weather. lol

I should be receiving my Haltech PS1000 ECU today, It comes with the PnP loom. Hopefully I can get my car running today.

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:14

Oh you went Haltech, eh? Hopefully works all out for ya man, have you hit the drag strip down there at all yet?
:eek:

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VRx8
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Postby VRx8 » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:14

Yeah I went Haltech, At first I was going to get the Sprint RE because Im not running OMP nor A/C something simple. I decided against it after some research for a few hundred more you can get a lot more things like close loop, auto tune, anti lag and much more. I got a hell of a deal.

I haven't been to the track yet, I really want to get my car going and tuned for at least 20psi and see whats up. The car feels so much powerful down here is amazing. There is a few rotary drag racers down here.

Also bought a oil restrictor for my turbo to see if it helps with the smoke.

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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:14

I'll buy that Haltech from you for $20, right now, cash.
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VRx8
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Postby VRx8 » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:14

Make it $25.

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VRx8
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Postby VRx8 » Thu Nov 01, 2012 9:14

Got it idling steady at around 13 AFR. It accelerates but stumbling and cut off at around 3k. I'll go ahead and run a wire from my Wideband to the Haltech and input target AFR's. see if it helps.

http://s858.beta.photobucket.com/user/ecorrea88/media/VIDEO0011.mp4.html

I give up on trying to embed a video:angry:

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Thu Nov 01, 2012 9:14

That's on the Haltech?

I've never used the "auto tune" feature on PS1000, but if anything like most other standalone ECU's it's only for really cleaning up your cruising map, not for starting out or WOT (obviously) which is open-loop. If the car won't drive correctly I'd have little faith the auto tune will fix it. But hey, I'd give it a try and go from there.

When it cuts out is it going lean or rich? The PS1K, like all Haltechs, also has a shit ton of correction tables in it, which is great for compensating for environmental changes and making your tune very consistent, but it can be a major headache when you first start tuning. I would recommend setting EVERY correction table to a 0 factor (or 1, depending on the PS1K works) so they aren't applying any correction and you're working off a pure fuel/ignition scheme. The once you get that running correctly, slowly go back and add in those corrections to compensate for temperature, elevation, and atmospheric changes and conditions.
:eek:

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VRx8
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Postby VRx8 » Thu Nov 01, 2012 9:14

Yeah that's on the Haltech, at first the fuel table was set to low impedence injectors and I wasn't getting any fuel. I adjusted the settings to High impedence and nothing, I decided to mess around with the fuel trim I added 100% lol and it almost fired up. Then I selected the whole fuel map and went up like 30 times and lowered the fuel trim to 0 and It was able to stay running.

You are right on the auto-tune feature, it needs load in order to work.

Is going lean when it cuts out. I'll do what you say and set all the correction tables to 0 and due my best to set timing and fuel. And then mess with the corrections.

Now the air bleed screw, thats only to raise or lower the idle right?

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Thu Nov 01, 2012 9:14

The air bleed also helps with starting hot or cold since you're not on the throttle during cranking. I'm not sure how the Haltech controls idle but I know you have no mechanical aids such as the ISC so I'm guessing its pure timing and fuel maps.

Lowering timing will lower idle and smooth things out and let you get slightly leaner AFRs but it looks like you have that nailed.
:eek:

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VRx8
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Postby VRx8 » Thu Nov 01, 2012 9:14

Yeap no dice wont rev past 2k, Im pretty sure is a MAP sensor thing. I tried to upload the GM 3 BAR calibration to the ecu and then car won't even stay running but if I put the stock MAP sensor calibration the car idles fine.

So I don't know what to do lol.

All the corrections are 0 i was just messing around with timing and fuel.


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