My new car!

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:14

The studs on the front iron have nothing to do with it. I removed them so they aren't possibly causing any issues right now. I only have 3 bolts torqued down holding the water pump.

The ONLY thing I can think of is during the gasket removal process with my razor blade I removed some metal off the water pump flange surface. Even if I did, it would have been thousands of an inch at most, which I can't imagine the water pump impeller and it's housing have that close of tolerances. Very odd.

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:14

Spray WD-40 inside the impeller shaft. I don't know if you posted this already (too lazy to read lol ) but does the pump have play to and from ?

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:14

I tried some WD40 variant inside the two holes on the shaft carrier. Made no difference. The shaft does have some play in the thrust direction (up and down) but no lateral/side movement. The thrust deflection is probably in the hundredths of an inch, it's minimal.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:The studs on the front iron have nothing to do with it. I removed them so they aren't possibly causing any issues right now. I only have 3 bolts torqued down holding the water pump.

The ONLY thing I can think of is during the gasket removal process with my razor blade I removed some metal off the water pump flange surface. Even if I did, it would have been thousands of an inch at most, which I can't imagine the water pump impeller and it's housing have that close of tolerances. Very odd.

Oh that's right, I forgot the pump bolts down on the very end of the studs anyway. Well this is certainly weird. I doubt losing some material where it mates would cause this either though. If it leaks, THEN I'd blame that haha. So the only thing you've done with these pieces is bake them after painting right? Other than that nothing was done? Can you see where it's scraping inside? Maybe I'm just asking things you've already answered haha. I'm so tired right now.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:14

Yeah I all did was disassemble them (from working order), clean them, paint them, then bake them at 200*F for a hour. Not extreme enough temperatures to warp them or anything.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sat Jan 21, 2012 9:14

I was checking out AEM's site the other day and stumbled upon these (http://www.aemelectronics.com/high-output-inductive-dumb-coil-1239) high output ignition coils. They are designed for use with an external ignitor (like the FD has) and claim to deliver up to 118 megajoules of spark energy.

This got me rethinking my planned ignition system. Originally I was just going to keep the stock coils with the two trailing coils and the shared waste-spark leading coil and run an external MSD 6AL-2 CDI box with built-in 2-step. Although the wiring for the MSD isn't too intensive, it does involve a relay setup to get the 2-step functioning properly and much more wiring than the AEM coils which are nearly plug in play with the FD's stock ignition sub harness (save for splitting the leading coil trigger to run two individual coils as a waste-spark setup). The AEM coils will also save me about $150 bucks over running the MSD CDI system.

The tech specs look very similar; the AEM coils claim 118mJ while the MSD claims 135mJ. That's close enough to be negligible. The biggest thing is I like the 2-step on the MSD because A ) it sounds cool and will scare people, B ) Great for launching, and C ) it sounds cool! But is it worth the extra money and wiring?

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Sat Jan 21, 2012 9:14

I wonder how those would work with the Twin Power.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sun Jan 22, 2012 9:14

Hmmm, those seem to be a little more compact than the stock coils as well.

Actually now that I look at it again, it doesn't look like they're that compact.

Do you REALLY need to look that cool, Dave? With the 2-step? LOL

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sun Jan 22, 2012 9:14

VRx8 wrote:I wonder how those would work with the Twin Power.

They should work fine. They are designed to work with CDI ignition amps so it should be good to go.

speedjunkie wrote:Hmmm, those seem to be a little more compact than the stock coils as well.

Actually now that I look at it again, it doesn't look like they're that compact.

Do you REALLY need to look that cool, Dave? With the 2-step? LOL

Well I think a single coil would be smaller than the shared waste-spark OEM leading coil, but the two would be slightly larger. I'm not really worried about fitting them in the stock location, though. Or maybe even a coil-on-plug (COP) setup for the leading?

Yes! The 2-step is awesome haha. This system would be more or less modular, however, so I could do either the coils or the MSD box now, and then add whichever I don't do now, later, since they are compatible with each other.

I'm just a little skeptical of the AEM coils. I will say AEM has a "record" or sort of over-hyping stuff and some of their products are hit or miss (like their ECU for the FD, for example, which, out of the box, is a joke). So who knows if these AEM coils would work worth a damn or not, while the MSD box is a proven setup.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sun Jan 22, 2012 9:14

When I was commenting on the size of these, I was thinking about when I was trying to redo my setup a while back. I don't really mind having mine back in the stock location though.

Hmmmm, 2 step is pretty cool actually haha.

Skye's7 · Postby **Skye's7** » Sun Jan 22, 2012 9:14

Duuude!!! Awsome! And congrats

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:14

So I'm thinking about running no blow-off valve. There is a good thread on 7club about this (http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=884695) and there is another good link to the theory here about it: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?src=suggestions&A=1457

Basically what it says is blow-off valve (or bypass valves, whatever you want to call them) were only installed as OEM equipment for emissions reasons, and they can actually hurt performance.

Furthermore, what most people think is compressor surge, is actually blow-off valve flutter, which is the BOV itself "fluttering" or moving rapidly back and forth as it's reference point switches between in-vacuum and boost. In reality, it is near impossible to make a compressor surge, stall, or spin backwards during shifts because the compressor is spinning at over 100,000 rpm. What you hear is BOV flutter or the compressor cavitating, or chopping the air. This does no damage to the turbo except perhaps marginally increase thrust bearing wear/load, which is minimal wear in the life of the turbo.

In even more support of the theory in running no BOV, when the BOV opens you loose all the compressed air in the charge pipe and intercooler, so when you get back on the throttle again, the turbo has to "re-charge" the volume of air that has been voided. This increases spool time between shifts, but admittedly, it's minimal, and on a street car, it's probably negligible.

The main appeal to me is the cost savings, plus less things to fail, leak, etc. Thoughts? I know this is a controversial topic but I think most of the controversy comes from people who don't fully comprehend blow-off valve theory.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:14

Sounds reasonable to me. Maybe I'll just block off the one on my new turbo HAHA.

I'm eager to see what kind of response difference there is between the two setups. Although you won't be doing a BOV so we won't know the difference. Good job Dave, way to kill an experiment! lol

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 9:14

Bawahaha well you were switching BOV's on your setup so it wouldn't be an apples to apples comparison anyways haha.

The more I think about it, the more likely I am to do it. I can't find any empirical evidence that a blow-off valve/diverter valve/dump valve does ANYTHING to help with performance, or even turbo longevity. The only anecdotal clippings I can gather are from profit-based retailers such as Garrett, Turbonetics, etc who of course would push BOV's on customers, because they manufacture, market, and sell said products.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 9:14

Scored a pretty sweet used genuine Fluidyne aluminum oil cooler off eBay for the cheapness of $65 bucks. It's huge at 18.5"x13" and 2.75" thick with -10AN fittings. This works well since I'm planning on running a single cooler, and it has a mounting bracket already welded to it, so it should be minimal fuss to get it mounted to the FD (knocks on wood).

Still debating on the whole BOV thing, I thought for sure more people would have an opinion on this?

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