My new car!

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:14

Keep it simple do 1 thru 12. Is your oil pressure regulator modified?

SecondGenPAt · Postby **SecondGenPAt** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:Got my work station all ready to clearance the side seals tomorrow since I have the day off. Still trying to figure out how to keep the seals organized and labeled once they are clearanced for their respective slot. I'm thinking I will label each side of the rotor A and B, then number each slot 1,2,3, on the rotor itself with Sharpie. Then have a bin for front and rear rotor to keep them separate. That way I can clearance each seal, then when I'm done wrap a small piece of blue painters tape around it and label it for it's respective slot (i.e A2 would be rotor side A, slot 2) and put it into either front or rear rotor bin.

http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com/videos/keeping_rotor_seals_organized

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:14

VRx8 wrote:Keep it simple do 1 thru 12. Is your oil pressure regulator modified?

I think I will use the factory stamped numbers on the rotor, I forgot they were there but in the video Pat linked it reminded me haha.

No, oil pressure regulator is not modified. How do you do it and what's the advantage?

SecondGenPAt wrote:http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com/videos/keeping_rotor_seals_organized

Thanks for the link. I like the case but I'm not about to pay nearly a $100 bucks for it haha http://www.pineappleracing.com/mazdasealcase.aspx

D Walker · Postby **D Walker** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:I think I will use the factory stamped numbers on the rotor, I forgot they were there but in the video Pat linked it reminded me haha.

No, oil pressure regulator is not modified. How do you do it and what's the advantage?

Thanks for the link. I like the case but I'm not about to pay nearly a $100 bucks for it haha http://www.pineappleracing.com/mazdasealcase.aspx

Your welcome for the link

We use plastic fishing boxes for the seals etc, work perfect

You can crush the internal regulator to increase air pressure, Rob has another video on how to do it, but honestly I typically do not do it, sort of a risky thing, you can overcrush it very easily. If you crush the rear internal regulator you need to shim the spring in the front one, or youhave wasted the effort.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 9:14

Yeah I don't think I'm going to modify it. limited benefit to risk ratio.

I have a Hobby Lobby right next to my house so I will probably swing by one to pick up a plastic bin.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 9:14

Finished clearancing the side seals. Not nearly as time consuming or difficult as I anticipated. Started around 1pm and took my time and finished around 2:15, including two breaks.

Instead of removing the seals and labeling them, or putting them in a case, I left them in the grooves with the springs and corners seals and used some blue painters tape to secure them.

Finished painting the water pump, OMP block off plate, the two clutch covers on the rear iron, and cured them in the oven. Only item left to be painted is the throttle body but it doesn't have to done until the engine is so I'm not going to rush it.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 9:14

I was going to say you could also wrap the rotors in Saran wrap, and maybe even put the vasoline on them first. But it might pull the seals out when you pull the Saran wrap off.

I painted my water pump and throttle body with regular paint and I'm actually really happy with the way they both turned out. I was really surprised. I'm not sure about baking the water pump though, since it has a seal, which is why I didn't just get it powder coated. I guess it's too late now though haha.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 9:14

^I thought about Saran wrap, but decided against it for the reasons you mentioned (sealed falling out when removing it). I also thought about Vasoline, but the rotors could collect a lot of dust between now and the motor getting built sitting with gobs of Vasoline on them.

So I assembled the t-stat housing, water pump, and Pineapple idler pulley kit on the main water housing this evening. Used The Right Stuff grey gasket sealer and the OEM gasket for the water pump and OEM rubber o-ring for the t-stat, with a brand new OEM t-stat as well.

First problem; water pump doesn't spin freely. It spins fine (albeit a little slowly) on it's own, but when I installed it in the housing it is now contacting the housing surface as I spin it. For about half of it's rotation it spins fine, but the other have I can hear it ever so slightly contacting/rubbing against the housings. This is very odd, seeing as these parts were installed before I tore it down, as in the water pump or it's housing are not new. They worked together just fine once before, so what's different now?

If I pull up/forward on the water pump pulley it spins fine, just not sure if the belt will hold the impeller in that position.

Otherwise, I also installed the t-stat housing. Used the new SS allen head bolts from the Himni kit and everything looks great. I had to drill out the broken bolt in the top of the t-stat housing where the pressure cap assembly bolts to, re-tap it, and then used some new SS allen head bolts to secure the new FC cap assembly with overflow tube (to delete the AST).

I bolted on the Pineapple idler pulley as well. I can't believe how close the belt rides to the lower end of the t-stat housing! It's literally the exact thickness of the belt! I tested it out numerous times and it works, but talk about tight tolerances. I'll post up some pictures later to better illustrate the point.

Lastly, I installed the front main seal on the front cover, the OMP block off plate, and the Full Function Engineering (FFE) black anodized aluminum timing sensors bracket. I double checked on-line to make sure the bracket wasn't on upside down. I know Eduardo accidentally put his on upside down and his car idled/ran like shit so, especially with a fresh rebuild, I wanted to make sure I had it on right!

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 9:14

No I was talking about if you put Vasoline on them first THEN wrapped them in Saran wrap, THAT would be a nightmare to pull apart LOL. I think if you did just the wrap and you were careful about taking it off later you'd probably be alright. But you can't go wrong the way you're doing it either...unless you misread one of the labels LOL!

That's really weird with the water pump hitting now. What the hell?? I wouldn't count on the belt holding it in a place where it won't hit haha. So no matter how you bolt it down it still rubs?

The Tweakit pulley is really close to the coolant exit as well, I can barely fit the belt through there. Actually, I might even have to unbolt the pulley in order to get the belt off, but I don't remember for sure. I just remember it being SUPER close. I wouldn't mind getting a new filler neck thing made, one that incorporates an AST into the neck. I know they're made already, I just can't pull the trigger on it just yet haha.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 9:14

Yeah I tried loosening the torque on the water pump bolts and it gets better, but only slightly. I torqued them to factory spec per the FSM. Maybe the water pump will just "clearance" itself upon initial start-up :lol:

I'm not really sure what to do about it...it will involve some tinkering for sure. My only thought is if somehow the bearings (or whatever supports the water pump impeller shaft) seized up or something while it has been sitting and the shaft has "sunk" or whatever into the housing? Long shot but I really have no clue. I don't feel like getting a new water pump either...it's just very odd because it feels like the pump needs a spacer or something, like a thin metal gasket. I don't remember one when pulling it apart, and the pump spun freely at that time as well.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 9:14

No it doesn't use a spacer. I have a spare water pump at the house. Why don't you try putting on a different one and see what happens? I just really can't see why it would be doing this. Such a random and weird problem.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 9:14

Thanks I can try that. Not sure when I can drive down to the Springs to grab it tho

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:14

Well if you can't get mine, Matt or someone closer might have one. Matt Holcomb might have one. Or maybe Zico will go to Denver at some point and at least you won't have to drive so far. And although it would suck to wait until it's in the car, you can always do that too. It would be nice to get it fixed sooner rather than later though, so you're not waiting for the build time to fix it.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:14

True. I decided to pull the water pump and look so I can hopefully see what's hitting. Maybe I can sand down the water pump fins or the "bowl" of the housing it sits in and make it work. Otherwise I'll be coming for other water pump, Eric!

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:14

Did you rest the front iron on those studs to the point they'd get bent? Did you take the studs out and use different ones? I just don't understand why it would change. You shouldn't have to sand anything down at all, I've NEVER had to sand anything down for the water pump. This is really vexing me LOL.

Also, I've been talking to Rich again about the engine and my problem is really vexing me too LOL.

My new car!

Who is online