Trying to log...WTF is this?
I think that's only on the 2nd gens. And yea, as long as your DIFP isn't dipping on you at WOT, your pump is doing fine.
2015 Ironman Silver Veloster Turbo - Bone stock and staying that way
1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors
Former Rides:
2011 Kona Blue Mustang GT 5.0
2009 True Red Mazdaspeed3 GT
2005 Flame Red SRT-4
1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors
Former Rides:
2011 Kona Blue Mustang GT 5.0
2009 True Red Mazdaspeed3 GT
2005 Flame Red SRT-4
Only thing I did in ATR was enable launch control and flat foot shifting. I got a protune and just left it alone other than that.
2015 Ironman Silver Veloster Turbo - Bone stock and staying that way
1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors
Former Rides:
2011 Kona Blue Mustang GT 5.0
2009 True Red Mazdaspeed3 GT
2005 Flame Red SRT-4
1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors
Former Rides:
2011 Kona Blue Mustang GT 5.0
2009 True Red Mazdaspeed3 GT
2005 Flame Red SRT-4
- chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
chickenwafer wrote:I'm pretty well versed with the ATR, Troy, just hit me up if you need any help.
I was hoping you would see this thread ChickenWafer. Too bad your way up North of me. Check out this log. Flashed the BT logic map Stage1 SRI+TIH 91 BTv102.
1st thing I noticed is idle RPMS are upped to ~900-1000 and does not pull quite as hard. AFR's are richer than my previous log as well, boost is about 1psi lower and never hits anything above 15 really. Also some insignificant knock in there.
I think I'll switch back. In the meantime, any advice? I haven't calibrated my MAF but when I look at my LTFT they are always -2/2 which I think is good.
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- chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
Yeah, I would switch off that map. If it runs worse than before, why risk it?
Secondly, I know it isn't as "widely accepted" of a method, but I always checked MAF calibration instantly by flashing a map, then pulling up your STFT at idle. Because STFT is instant, the range is greater; I was happy to see anything from +/- 3% at idle, and it will move around, just make sure it doesn't jump around too much and the % doesn't get higher than 3.
Of course, this only only checks your idle MAF calibration, but baring anything crazy, it should be 90% good through the rest of the MAF voltage and could just require slight tweaking to get it right in the rest of the range.
Secondly, I know it isn't as "widely accepted" of a method, but I always checked MAF calibration instantly by flashing a map, then pulling up your STFT at idle. Because STFT is instant, the range is greater; I was happy to see anything from +/- 3% at idle, and it will move around, just make sure it doesn't jump around too much and the % doesn't get higher than 3.
Of course, this only only checks your idle MAF calibration, but baring anything crazy, it should be 90% good through the rest of the MAF voltage and could just require slight tweaking to get it right in the rest of the range.

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