My new car!
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yoojeankim
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chickenwafer
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Eric- I can call you and let you know what settings to mess with. It's very easy.
Dan- With the PFC you can somewhat feel what it's like to be non-seq without doing anything. On the Commander go into the ETC menu then Setting, and under Sequential Control turn it to "No". On the older Commander it's Japanese symbols, just change it so the symbol is different than all the others.
This will disable with sequential solenoids so you can feel what it's like, although all the restrictions are still in place (the valves and doors) so it's "poor man's" non sequential. Going full "rich man's" non sequential will remove all the restrictions so it will spool a few hundred RPM sooner.
Dan- With the PFC you can somewhat feel what it's like to be non-seq without doing anything. On the Commander go into the ETC menu then Setting, and under Sequential Control turn it to "No". On the older Commander it's Japanese symbols, just change it so the symbol is different than all the others.
This will disable with sequential solenoids so you can feel what it's like, although all the restrictions are still in place (the valves and doors) so it's "poor man's" non sequential. Going full "rich man's" non sequential will remove all the restrictions so it will spool a few hundred RPM sooner.
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speedjunkie
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chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
Got a weird boost leak today. It's only on the secondary so I think it has to do with the pressure or vacuum tank, or a failed check valve?
Boost on the primary is still good and solid, but then at transition the secondary spools up to 14psi like normal then I hear a very audible boost leak and fluttering and boost drops to around 10psi. So it's not a huge leak but there is for sure a leak as I can hear and feel it.
Hopefully I can get this figured out before the cruise this weekend!
Boost on the primary is still good and solid, but then at transition the secondary spools up to 14psi like normal then I hear a very audible boost leak and fluttering and boost drops to around 10psi. So it's not a huge leak but there is for sure a leak as I can hear and feel it.
Hopefully I can get this figured out before the cruise this weekend!
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chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
Think I found the boost leak. Luckily since it was on the secondary there isn't much that could be the leak. I was just worried it was a cracked pressure or vacuum tank.
Luckily I'm pretty sure it was the cracked hose holding the Compression Release Valve (CRV) for the secondary turbo that bypasses it's air before it comes online. The hose from the y-pipe to the valve was split at it's seam almost the whole length of the hose and it was cracked at the bottom as well- that should do it.
Replaced the hose with a spare 5/8" hose I had laying around and used a worm-gear drive clamp on the y-pipe junction as opposed to those freaking OEM spring clamps that are impossible to get off in a tight location! I seriously want to know who thought it was a good idea to use those things!
Going to road test today and wash up the car to get ready for the cruise on Saturday!
Luckily I'm pretty sure it was the cracked hose holding the Compression Release Valve (CRV) for the secondary turbo that bypasses it's air before it comes online. The hose from the y-pipe to the valve was split at it's seam almost the whole length of the hose and it was cracked at the bottom as well- that should do it.
Replaced the hose with a spare 5/8" hose I had laying around and used a worm-gear drive clamp on the y-pipe junction as opposed to those freaking OEM spring clamps that are impossible to get off in a tight location! I seriously want to know who thought it was a good idea to use those things!
Going to road test today and wash up the car to get ready for the cruise on Saturday!
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chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
Just finished putting everything back together and road testing the FD. At first, I was happy because no more leak! Everything boosted great. Then as I was heading home, 3rd gear pull and PHHHHHSTTTT! boost leak. Damn it!
I pulled over and checked under the hood, no visible look connections or leaks. The CCV hose I replaced is still good. Still no boost leak until the secondary comes online. I'm thinking the leak has something to do with heat- it's fine when the engine is cold and warm, but after driving and getting everything hot, something expands or fails causing the leak. Since it's only the secondary I still suspect the CCV but if it was wide open I would be getting a lot less than 10psi right?
This is why I'm going non sequential! Stupid random boost problems!
I pulled over and checked under the hood, no visible look connections or leaks. The CCV hose I replaced is still good. Still no boost leak until the secondary comes online. I'm thinking the leak has something to do with heat- it's fine when the engine is cold and warm, but after driving and getting everything hot, something expands or fails causing the leak. Since it's only the secondary I still suspect the CCV but if it was wide open I would be getting a lot less than 10psi right?
This is why I'm going non sequential! Stupid random boost problems!
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chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
I tried to plug the CRV and still a boost leak off the secondary. This is frustrating...
I switched to disable the sequential system in the PFC and no more leak...but boost is very low at high RPM, like 7psi. I get more boost off running it sequential even with the leak. So I'm leaving it there until I get this fixed....gaaaaa!
I switched to disable the sequential system in the PFC and no more leak...but boost is very low at high RPM, like 7psi. I get more boost off running it sequential even with the leak. So I'm leaving it there until I get this fixed....gaaaaa!
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chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
Believe I finally made some sort of progress today diagnosing my secondary boost leak.
Thanks to Matt, he gave me the idea to tee my boost gauge into the CRV line to make sure it switches from vacuum to boost pressure at the turbo transition switchover point of 4500rpm. So I did and I verified the valve is in vacuum until 4500rpm and then, like a switch, it snaps to boost, closing the valve.
The leak must be coming from the valve then, meaning it's bad, not the control system. I also put a metal coaches whistle in a hose coming off the valve and I could hear it, but barely. But then the whistle would get blown out of the hose. This does indicate (to me) that the leak is coming from the compression relief valve. This is also indicated by the boost gauge test so the leak must be at the physical valve.
I now know why so many people dump this blasted sequential system for a simple non-seq setup or a big single. Don't get me wrong, when the sequential system works it's a BEAUTIFUL thing, but when it doesn't, you'll hate your car and pull your hair out attempting to diagnose it.
Thanks to Matt, he gave me the idea to tee my boost gauge into the CRV line to make sure it switches from vacuum to boost pressure at the turbo transition switchover point of 4500rpm. So I did and I verified the valve is in vacuum until 4500rpm and then, like a switch, it snaps to boost, closing the valve.
The leak must be coming from the valve then, meaning it's bad, not the control system. I also put a metal coaches whistle in a hose coming off the valve and I could hear it, but barely. But then the whistle would get blown out of the hose. This does indicate (to me) that the leak is coming from the compression relief valve. This is also indicated by the boost gauge test so the leak must be at the physical valve.
I now know why so many people dump this blasted sequential system for a simple non-seq setup or a big single. Don't get me wrong, when the sequential system works it's a BEAUTIFUL thing, but when it doesn't, you'll hate your car and pull your hair out attempting to diagnose it.
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chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
No dice on the CRV. We used Matt's known good valve and still a leak.
So we figured the y-pipe had to have a split/crack in it, the o-ring joining the 2 halves had busted/blown out, or the pipe mating to the compressor lifted off the studs. So we dived in, removed intakes, air pump, y-pipe, rear turbo compressor intake, etc. No cracks, and the compressor on the secondary spins very well and freely, shockingly well even.
Reassembled everything and test drive. Still a leak. At this point I honestly have no flippin clue where it's coming from! But a thanks to Matt for lending me a hand.
We also used Matt's "Frankenstein" box watch what the PFC is doing in "non sequential" mode and why I don't hear a leak in that mode. Turns out, in non sequential mode, the PFC doesn't operate like you would expect...I would expect the PFC to turn everything off so both turbos operate all the time. Wrong, the PFC just never turns on the secondary turbo! How moronic is that?! So I won't be using that mode anymore.
Any ideas where this could be coming from?
Stuff I have checked thus far;
-CRV tested and functional. Also swapped for a known good valve
-CRV Solenoid/control system functional verified by teeing my boost gauge into the hose
-O-ring on the y-pipe coupling good and sealed
-Y-pipe bolted on securely, gaskets in good shape, not leaking
-BOV tested and known good/functional
-CCV tested and known good/functional and not leaking
-Pressure tank submerged in water and pumped with 25psi and no leaks
-Check valve off pressure tank held 25psi for 5 minutes, no leak
-Swapped in OEM ECU and still the same results during drive test
Symptoms:
Builds boost and no audible boost leak off primary turbo. At turbo transition (4500RPM) boost drops rapidly and can hear audible leak.
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
So we figured the y-pipe had to have a split/crack in it, the o-ring joining the 2 halves had busted/blown out, or the pipe mating to the compressor lifted off the studs. So we dived in, removed intakes, air pump, y-pipe, rear turbo compressor intake, etc. No cracks, and the compressor on the secondary spins very well and freely, shockingly well even.
Reassembled everything and test drive. Still a leak. At this point I honestly have no flippin clue where it's coming from! But a thanks to Matt for lending me a hand.
We also used Matt's "Frankenstein" box watch what the PFC is doing in "non sequential" mode and why I don't hear a leak in that mode. Turns out, in non sequential mode, the PFC doesn't operate like you would expect...I would expect the PFC to turn everything off so both turbos operate all the time. Wrong, the PFC just never turns on the secondary turbo! How moronic is that?! So I won't be using that mode anymore.
Any ideas where this could be coming from?
Stuff I have checked thus far;
-CRV tested and functional. Also swapped for a known good valve
-CRV Solenoid/control system functional verified by teeing my boost gauge into the hose
-O-ring on the y-pipe coupling good and sealed
-Y-pipe bolted on securely, gaskets in good shape, not leaking
-BOV tested and known good/functional
-CCV tested and known good/functional and not leaking
-Pressure tank submerged in water and pumped with 25psi and no leaks
-Check valve off pressure tank held 25psi for 5 minutes, no leak
-Swapped in OEM ECU and still the same results during drive test
Symptoms:
Builds boost and no audible boost leak off primary turbo. At turbo transition (4500RPM) boost drops rapidly and can hear audible leak.
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
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speedjunkie
- Senior Member
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chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
Yeah, the PFC is pretty stupid haha
Haha I do still have that single turbo manifold....
I will go single someday but I have a motto and that's "Do it once, do it right" when it comes to modding cars. When you cheap out you end up doing it twice so it costs you more in the end anyways. Basically in order to get the car ready for single I have to upgrade other stuff first that will soak up all my spare coin this fall/winter.
If I wanted I could keep my Pettit CCII SMIC but it's less than ideal for a big single. It works great for stock twins but not so much for a single that will be pushing much more CFM. Plus, I can't push the car when it's hot out now so I need a v-mount. When it's cold there's no issue but on that mountain drive last weekend I hit 242*F so yeah, I need a v-mount first haha.
Haha I do still have that single turbo manifold....
I will go single someday but I have a motto and that's "Do it once, do it right" when it comes to modding cars. When you cheap out you end up doing it twice so it costs you more in the end anyways. Basically in order to get the car ready for single I have to upgrade other stuff first that will soak up all my spare coin this fall/winter.
If I wanted I could keep my Pettit CCII SMIC but it's less than ideal for a big single. It works great for stock twins but not so much for a single that will be pushing much more CFM. Plus, I can't push the car when it's hot out now so I need a v-mount. When it's cold there's no issue but on that mountain drive last weekend I hit 242*F so yeah, I need a v-mount first haha.
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chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
With the motor coming out the weekend of July 17th, I've got a list of stuff I need to do while it's out. Thought I'd share a quick recap:
-Degrease engine bay and PPF with power washer and Castrol Super Clean, touch it all up, tuck majority of the harness
-Reseal new OEM oil pan
-Banzai oil pan brace and stud kit
-Delete AST, FPD, PS, A/C (temporarily), thermowax in TB, double throttle, etc
-Go non-seq, delete emissions, install new-to-me twins
-Remove air pump, replace with idler pulley
-Install Bonez clutch and pressure plate with RP clutch bearing kit, RP braided SS clutch hose, ACT ProLite fly and c-weight
-New Himi poly motor mounts and eBay engine torque brace
-install Defined v-mount
-Relocate Braille B2018 battery to spare tire well in trunk with Sector111 mount with integrated kill switch. Install Battery Tender
-Polish most removable aluminum engine components
-Drop in 1300cc secondaries and 2nd in-tank Supra pump
-Install new Power Flex poly bushing kit and new OEM Pillow ball spherical bushings
-With suspension out, possibly polish all suspension arms and spray more rubberized chassis undercarriage coating
-Decide on coilovers and install a set. Leaning towards Fortune Auto 500R's.
-Install Banzai diff brace
That's about it off the top of my head. I'm super excited knowing how different the car will be once I'm driving it again. Goal is to have her mobile by my birthday; March 31st.
-Degrease engine bay and PPF with power washer and Castrol Super Clean, touch it all up, tuck majority of the harness
-Reseal new OEM oil pan
-Banzai oil pan brace and stud kit
-Delete AST, FPD, PS, A/C (temporarily), thermowax in TB, double throttle, etc
-Go non-seq, delete emissions, install new-to-me twins
-Remove air pump, replace with idler pulley
-Install Bonez clutch and pressure plate with RP clutch bearing kit, RP braided SS clutch hose, ACT ProLite fly and c-weight
-New Himi poly motor mounts and eBay engine torque brace
-install Defined v-mount
-Relocate Braille B2018 battery to spare tire well in trunk with Sector111 mount with integrated kill switch. Install Battery Tender
-Polish most removable aluminum engine components
-Drop in 1300cc secondaries and 2nd in-tank Supra pump
-Install new Power Flex poly bushing kit and new OEM Pillow ball spherical bushings
-With suspension out, possibly polish all suspension arms and spray more rubberized chassis undercarriage coating
-Decide on coilovers and install a set. Leaning towards Fortune Auto 500R's.
-Install Banzai diff brace
That's about it off the top of my head. I'm super excited knowing how different the car will be once I'm driving it again. Goal is to have her mobile by my birthday; March 31st.
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chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
Been busy getting married and going on a honeymoon, but I'm now back in town and as promised, the motor is coming out of the FD.
I started Friday afternoon, just removing the basic stuff prepping for the motor pull.
As she sat before being ripped into:
Basic stuff off at this point: intakes, hood, hood prop rod, battery, battery tray, etc:
SMIC out:
Another view:
What's funny is I actually got to this stage (believe it or not) with just a 10mm wrench, 10mm socket on an extension, 3/8" ratchet, flat-head screw driver, and a pair of pliers!
Then Matt came over and helped out a lot. We got the harness pulled through the firewall, oil, coolant, and power steering fluid drained, AST removed, PS cooler removed (I'm deleting PS), transmission pan removed (which was filthy!), oil cooler lines, fuel hoses, midpipe exhaust connection, etc.
At this point the only thing physically holding the motor in the car are the motor mounts, transmission bell-housing bolts, the clutch, and the A/C lines (condenser will be un-bolted while pulling the motor).
Today Eric is coming up with Frank's engine hoist (thanks again to both of you guys!) and the motor will be yanked. Hopefully no unexpected surprises!
Will post more pictures once we get underway later today.
I started Friday afternoon, just removing the basic stuff prepping for the motor pull.
As she sat before being ripped into:
Basic stuff off at this point: intakes, hood, hood prop rod, battery, battery tray, etc:
SMIC out:
Another view:
What's funny is I actually got to this stage (believe it or not) with just a 10mm wrench, 10mm socket on an extension, 3/8" ratchet, flat-head screw driver, and a pair of pliers!
Then Matt came over and helped out a lot. We got the harness pulled through the firewall, oil, coolant, and power steering fluid drained, AST removed, PS cooler removed (I'm deleting PS), transmission pan removed (which was filthy!), oil cooler lines, fuel hoses, midpipe exhaust connection, etc.
At this point the only thing physically holding the motor in the car are the motor mounts, transmission bell-housing bolts, the clutch, and the A/C lines (condenser will be un-bolted while pulling the motor).
Today Eric is coming up with Frank's engine hoist (thanks again to both of you guys!) and the motor will be yanked. Hopefully no unexpected surprises!
Will post more pictures once we get underway later today.
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