New engine

General Car Related Discussion
Learjet45
Senior Member
Posts: 1394
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 9:14
Location: Troy, NY (RPI)

Postby Learjet45 » Wed Apr 27, 2011 9:14

It's about time I said this, but having fun drunk posting? lmao.
Image
[color="Blue"]2008 Subaru Legacy 2.5i PZEV - Current Ride, 100% stock[/color]
[color="Gray"]2005 Mazda 6i Pebble Ash Metallic - Dead[/color]

User avatar
Hschlick84
Senior Member
Posts: 320
Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2010 9:14
Location: Northglenn

Postby Hschlick84 » Wed Apr 27, 2011 9:14

heh, its not bad... i need this man, slow week and not giving a god damn
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
[SIZE="1"]2010 Mazda 3 2.5 S hatchback[/SIZE]

User avatar
alex_n/a
Senior Member
Posts: 463
Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:14
Location: aurora

Postby alex_n/a » Thu Apr 28, 2011 9:14

150k is still low miles for me. My explorer has 211k on original engine and the only time it has given out on me is when the tranny went bad (common on fords 4x4) and the gas pump somehow leaked all the gas out on the ground.

I still say rebuild your engine. Replace what is needed with new parts. Because no matter if it was remanufactured or rebuilt there must have been a problem with that engine before, but the difference is at least you know with your engine the problem was fixed. Another engine you are hoping they fixed it right the first time. (keyword "hoping") you can throw all the new parts you want but it really just comes down to the craftmanship.
Image
89' rx7/ brought back to life/ now sold
96' Honda Civic cx hatchback midori green / stock / daily driver / 39mpg
00' Ford explorer xlt / winter work horse / 218k miles and running like a champ

bellalyssa
Posts: 1237
Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2009 9:14
Location: NoCo

Postby bellalyssa » Thu Apr 28, 2011 9:14

Don't try and turbo it... you will have so many more problems than you do now. I wanted to turbo mine but it just wasn't worth all that money and the more you will spend when things keep going wrong.
2004 Mazda3s Hatchback: Totalled
2002 Audi A4 Avant: Sold

2013 Subaru WRX 5-door: Stage 1

Learjet45
Senior Member
Posts: 1394
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 9:14
Location: Troy, NY (RPI)

Postby Learjet45 » Thu Apr 28, 2011 9:14

alex_n/a wrote:I still say rebuild your engine. Replace what is needed with new parts. Because no matter if it was remanufactured or rebuilt there must have been a problem with that engine before, but the difference is at least you know with your engine the problem was fixed. Another engine you are hoping they fixed it right the first time. (keyword "hoping") you can throw all the new parts you want but it really just comes down to the craftmanship.


That's the thing though. Remanufacturing the engine will help to get rid of any problem, not just the one I'm experiencing now. Whose to say that my engine won't start having even more problems if I only fix what is wrong now? I'm getting a remanufactured 2.3L engine plain and simple. The company that was recommended to me on 6crew was recommended by a few different people, including someone who got an engine from them. He has had nothing good to say about them, and no problems with the engine yet.
Image
[color="Blue"]2008 Subaru Legacy 2.5i PZEV - Current Ride, 100% stock[/color]
[color="Gray"]2005 Mazda 6i Pebble Ash Metallic - Dead[/color]

User avatar
memphis
Senior Member
Posts: 998
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:14
Location: Monument
Contact:

Postby memphis » Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:14

Just throwing this in.... Just cuz it has 117k on it doesnt mean the engine was a good engine that still went bad... I had an 05' Mazda 6 and I threw a rod in mine at 22k miles.. I never drove the car hard or had any major mods done to it,, Not even a CAI.. Sometimes shit just breaks... But I remember when this happened to mine and I was posting alot on the mazda6club forums, that someone else on there had said they had their engine blow up on them to at low miles to.. So maybe its just a design flaw or something and its more common that we think.

User avatar
RedRoadster
Posts: 641
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2007 9:14
Location: Colorado Springs
Contact:

Postby RedRoadster » Sat Apr 30, 2011 9:14

Blame the accountants for cheapifying everything they can get their hands on. Personally, I'd rather pay for a touch of overengineered systems, and increase Mean Time Between Failures by an order of magnitude.

Despite being out of manufacturing, a touch of failure mode and effect analysis still runs through me from time to time. :)
95 Classic Red Miata - 'Kona'
Racing Beat Sways, AEM WB O2 sensor, ACT clutch, Ground Control Springs, Bilstein HDs, Fat Cat bumpstops, 95 stock 14s (winter) or 99 sport 15s (summer)
Flyin' Miata stuff:
FM II Link GT2560R turbo, Butterfly brace, N/A dual exhaust, Oil filter relo kit, Rear shock mounts

08 Sunlight Silver Mazda 3s GT Sedan - 'Tuna'
OEM Wing spoiler, Sirius and Media switcher

05 Onyx Black Mazda 6i Hatchback - 'Smokey'

Learjet45
Senior Member
Posts: 1394
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 9:14
Location: Troy, NY (RPI)

Postby Learjet45 » Wed May 11, 2011 9:14

Dropped the car off at Pro Auto Care today. Going to hear more about what's wrong and what needs to be done tomorrow. I'm guessing rebuild/new engine, and I think we are going to go for the new engine more than likely.
Image
[color="Blue"]2008 Subaru Legacy 2.5i PZEV - Current Ride, 100% stock[/color]
[color="Gray"]2005 Mazda 6i Pebble Ash Metallic - Dead[/color]

User avatar
Number2
Posts: 807
Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:14
Location: Denver

Postby Number2 » Wed May 11, 2011 9:14

RedRoadster wrote:Personally, I'd rather pay for a touch of overengineered systems, and increase Mean Time Between Failures by an order of magnitude.


Don't forget the Continuum Transfunctioner. It is essential to install a new device in any rebuild.
"Littering, and?..."
Image

Learjet45
Senior Member
Posts: 1394
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 9:14
Location: Troy, NY (RPI)

Postby Learjet45 » Thu May 12, 2011 9:14

Looking at $7000 for a new engine and struts as well as other maintenance.
Image
[color="Blue"]2008 Subaru Legacy 2.5i PZEV - Current Ride, 100% stock[/color]
[color="Gray"]2005 Mazda 6i Pebble Ash Metallic - Dead[/color]

User avatar
Huzer
Posts: 4607
Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:14

Postby Huzer » Thu May 12, 2011 9:14

Learjet45 wrote:Looking at $7000 for a new engine and struts as well as other maintenance.


Do they have a breakdown of what is costing what. Seems rather pricey.

User avatar
RX-7 Chris
Posts: 7800
Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:14
Location: Colorado Springs
Contact:

Postby RX-7 Chris » Thu May 12, 2011 9:14

it does seem pricey.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]

My Car Blog

User avatar
erod550
Posts: 3764
Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2009 9:14
Location: Colorado Springs

Postby erod550 » Thu May 12, 2011 9:14

Yea that's pretty crazy expensive. A brand new DISI motor in an MS3 is around 7k installed at a dealer. No way the 2.5i engine should cost that much. Struts are maybe $100 each so they're not adding multiple thousands to the price.

I'd at least get an estimate on how much it will cost to rebuild your current engine, and preferrably not by a dealer as they charge way more than everyone else. A remanufactured engine is a remanufactured engine whether you get a different one or just have your current one rebuilt.
2015 Ironman Silver Veloster Turbo - Bone stock and staying that way
1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors

Former Rides:
2011 Kona Blue Mustang GT 5.0
2009 True Red Mazdaspeed3 GT
2005 Flame Red SRT-4

User avatar
D Walker
Senior Member
Posts: 437
Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2011 9:14
Location: Aurora

Postby D Walker » Thu May 12, 2011 9:14

Learjet45 wrote:Looking at $7000 for a new engine and struts as well as other maintenance.


a NEW engine or a reman? from Mazda or? questions they must be answered

According to Alldata it requires 11.8 hours to replace the engine, which at my $95/hour shop rate would be $1121.00
A NEW engine from Mazda (not using the Mazdacomp program) for $4301 plus a core charge (which you should never see on your bill). add in fluids etc and lets call it 6K. However! If it were me (and I am thankful its not) I would not buy a new motor from Mazda but instead buy one from someone like Tom at The Parts Group who buys fresh late model wrecks and then parts them out. Tom only does Miata's but I found several on the parts locator with reasonable miles (40 to 60K) in the $2500 range, so I would really recommend saving that cash over putting in a new Mazda motor into a base 6.

A reman motor is not a bad idea either, or simply rebuilding the motor you have.
1986 Turbo FC race car, S6 13b, GOOPY Apex seals etc, GT35R, AEM EMS, lots more good stuff

RX8 World Chalenge Touring Car #7
RX8 World Challenge Touring Car #8

Learjet45
Senior Member
Posts: 1394
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 9:14
Location: Troy, NY (RPI)

Postby Learjet45 » Thu May 12, 2011 9:14

Engine and labor is $5k of it. Includes a 5 year 100k mile warranty. When I last had a quote on struts from firestone it was $700 for parts and labor. Not sure what other maintenance is.

My dad talked to my grandpa and he said that we might look in to getting a used car instead. I'm still hoping for a 3.2 cl.
Image
[color="Blue"]2008 Subaru Legacy 2.5i PZEV - Current Ride, 100% stock[/color]
[color="Gray"]2005 Mazda 6i Pebble Ash Metallic - Dead[/color]


Return to “Car Chat”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Baidu [Spider] and 86 guests