Dialing the Manual Boost Controllers right now. It's taking more turns of each to get the desired boost level I want, I've been at for over a day and I'm still not there yet. Taking it in baby steps to avoid a massive boost overspike. I'm also pretty sure my primary turbo is bad since with the MBC almost completely closed it still doesn't want to push more than 10psi.
I have them dialed in right to about 5psi on the primary with a slow rise to 10psi by switchover, then 11psi off the secondary. The boost is nearly instant, I can really tell these helped my boost response.
Still can't figure out why the Datalogit is reading my wideband incorrectly. It is setup properly and I've tried every different polynomial equation I can think of and still no go. Even Matt (Alpha) helped me out and I thought it was fixed, but then it started reading incorrectly again! Seriously starting to piss me off!
I can say the car is back to hauling balls and feels real quick. Once I get the boost up to 13psi I'll be pretty happy until I drop in my 1300cc secondaries and the Supra fuel pump and shoot for 15psi. 60mph comes up quick! I'd like to time it but don't have a verifiable way to do it (looking for iPhone app right now...)
Also, all this boost and tune testing is killing my fuel economy. Burned through 3/4 of a tank (that's 15 gallons) in 135 miles. That's 9MPG kids. Most of it was in boost and idle tuning, and I'm still cruising rich in some spots of the map so once that is fixed it should go down.
My new car!
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chickenwafer
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FINALLY got the wideband the Datalogit communicating correctly (big thanks to Matt for the help!) so I could begin doing some real data logs and tuning, namely in the vacuum/cruise range of the map since that is where it read inaccurately before.
Also made some changes to the timing maps so now it cold starts MUCH better. Before, I would have to feather the throttle for a good 2-3 minutes until coolant temps were up to around 25*C before it would idle on it's own. Then, once the PowerFC took over and did it's dynamic idle control to control rpm speed at idle, it would idle like crap by hunting and surging until it went into Electrical Load idle mode at 85*C when the first radiator fan kicked on.
The new timing has completely eliminated all of that so now it cold starts like stock, no need to feather the throttle or any of that BS. I really like it. Idle is also 100% stable now even when the PFC takes over idle timing. I just need to nail my AFRs at idle a little better and more consistently and I'm set.
Did some more tweaking on the boost controllers and I'm finally running a boost pattern of 10-10-12psi. The car pulls like nothing else- it's never pulled like this before. The primary spools quicker than before, and the secondary hits like a nuclear freight train has rear ended me, or someone lit a semi-nuclear device attached to the rear of the car.
Most impressive is some at-speed tests I did. 60-80mph is the best and according a to an app I downloaded on my iPhone4 is says I do it in 1.7 seconds. I was having a hard time launching and doing the 0-60mph tests because the phone kept moving, even when I had it locked into a holder.
Just a few more tweaks of the manual boost controllers and I'll hopefully be running the 13-11-13 or so boost pattern I want. I can really tell the manual controllers have severely sharpened the boost response as well. According to some Datalogit logs I am making boost as early as 2400rpm!
Now I just need to get the cat in the midpipe sometime this week, hook it up to the air pump, put the stock ECU back in, sacrifice a unicorn and give the corpse to a leprechaun and go pass emissions!
Also made some changes to the timing maps so now it cold starts MUCH better. Before, I would have to feather the throttle for a good 2-3 minutes until coolant temps were up to around 25*C before it would idle on it's own. Then, once the PowerFC took over and did it's dynamic idle control to control rpm speed at idle, it would idle like crap by hunting and surging until it went into Electrical Load idle mode at 85*C when the first radiator fan kicked on.
The new timing has completely eliminated all of that so now it cold starts like stock, no need to feather the throttle or any of that BS. I really like it. Idle is also 100% stable now even when the PFC takes over idle timing. I just need to nail my AFRs at idle a little better and more consistently and I'm set.
Did some more tweaking on the boost controllers and I'm finally running a boost pattern of 10-10-12psi. The car pulls like nothing else- it's never pulled like this before. The primary spools quicker than before, and the secondary hits like a nuclear freight train has rear ended me, or someone lit a semi-nuclear device attached to the rear of the car.
Most impressive is some at-speed tests I did. 60-80mph is the best and according a to an app I downloaded on my iPhone4 is says I do it in 1.7 seconds. I was having a hard time launching and doing the 0-60mph tests because the phone kept moving, even when I had it locked into a holder.
Just a few more tweaks of the manual boost controllers and I'll hopefully be running the 13-11-13 or so boost pattern I want. I can really tell the manual controllers have severely sharpened the boost response as well. According to some Datalogit logs I am making boost as early as 2400rpm!
Now I just need to get the cat in the midpipe sometime this week, hook it up to the air pump, put the stock ECU back in, sacrifice a unicorn and give the corpse to a leprechaun and go pass emissions!
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Twisted_grip
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speedjunkie
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chickenwafer
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Eric is right, although I haven't attempted to pass yet. I am going this Saturday.
I know the car I bought has always passed emissions before in Longmont up until the last time when it failed. I have the print outs from the emissions stations the previous owner went to so I will check if it failed just because it was doing worse or if the standards got more strict.
I am replacing the factory catalytic converter with an aftermarket Magnaflow California-legal ceramic honeycomb catalytic converter I just purchased. This cat is larger the factory cat and also features an AIR tube just like factory.
All the other emissions equipment is in-tact on my car; mechanical air pump and I've verified it's operation, AWS, Double Throttle, Split Air bypass, charcoal canister, etc. Car also has stock twins still sequential and stock injectors/pump installed right now.
As of right now I have the PowerFC standalone in but I am swapping back to the OEM ECU for the emissions test just because I can and it will be easier. Judging by the look of the OEM cat, it probably was the main culprit for the cars last emissions test failure, and I wouldn't be surprised it was original to the vehicle (126k miles) since I don't have a receipt for it the 3" thick manila folder the previous owner gave me with records going back to 1995. So that's why I'm hoping this Magnaflow cat will let me pass emissions with everything else essentially as-is.
My largest concern is my secondary turbo has an oil leak. I produce lots of visual smoke during decel but only after the secondary has come on-line, so above 4500rpm, and it only does this after boosting, so there is no visual smoke or anything at idle or even cruising. I'm also limiting boost to 5psi on both turbos during the test so hopefully that will reduce some smoke.
I know the car I bought has always passed emissions before in Longmont up until the last time when it failed. I have the print outs from the emissions stations the previous owner went to so I will check if it failed just because it was doing worse or if the standards got more strict.
I am replacing the factory catalytic converter with an aftermarket Magnaflow California-legal ceramic honeycomb catalytic converter I just purchased. This cat is larger the factory cat and also features an AIR tube just like factory.
All the other emissions equipment is in-tact on my car; mechanical air pump and I've verified it's operation, AWS, Double Throttle, Split Air bypass, charcoal canister, etc. Car also has stock twins still sequential and stock injectors/pump installed right now.
As of right now I have the PowerFC standalone in but I am swapping back to the OEM ECU for the emissions test just because I can and it will be easier. Judging by the look of the OEM cat, it probably was the main culprit for the cars last emissions test failure, and I wouldn't be surprised it was original to the vehicle (126k miles) since I don't have a receipt for it the 3" thick manila folder the previous owner gave me with records going back to 1995. So that's why I'm hoping this Magnaflow cat will let me pass emissions with everything else essentially as-is.
My largest concern is my secondary turbo has an oil leak. I produce lots of visual smoke during decel but only after the secondary has come on-line, so above 4500rpm, and it only does this after boosting, so there is no visual smoke or anything at idle or even cruising. I'm also limiting boost to 5psi on both turbos during the test so hopefully that will reduce some smoke.
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speedjunkie
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Actually, I realize that my initial response was incorrect. It should have gone something like this...
Passing emissions?
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Something like that.
LOL
Passing emissions?
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Something like that.
LOL
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chickenwafer
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I was thinking of slashing a few gallons on E85 in my tank just to try it. My main concern is something blowing with the increased fuel requirements of E85 but with the manual boost controllers bypassed and the pills out of the line I'm only going to push 5psi.
I know E85 would help, but I'm not sure what ratio I would want to use (gallons of gasoline to E85) and then I am have to burn off the tank before I can do any serious boosting again. I'm around a 1/4 tank now so I was thinking just 2 gallons of gasoline and maybe 4-5 of E85.
I know E85 would help, but I'm not sure what ratio I would want to use (gallons of gasoline to E85) and then I am have to burn off the tank before I can do any serious boosting again. I'm around a 1/4 tank now so I was thinking just 2 gallons of gasoline and maybe 4-5 of E85.
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chickenwafer
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Car is officially in "Emissions Mode". Got the Magnaflow cat in with much struggle. Main problem is the OD of the Magnaflow cat is about 0.125" larger than the OD of the straight pipe it was going into.
This made using the butt-joint clamps very difficult because they would get extremely tight on the cat but still be loose on the straight pipe pieces. So then I would torque the crap out of the bolts and it broke a few spot welds holding the flanges together. So then I had to tack them back together but the metal was very thin making it blow out easily. Arrrgg!
I finally got the cat positioned right (had to be tilted slightly) So then I just put a few tack welds around the butt joints on the pipe on both cat and pipe sides to keep it from moving. When putting the cat in and torquing on the flange bolts, it broke a few tack welds as it pulled the pipe into position. It's still in there firmly, however, I just hope it doesn't leak.
Hooking up the air pump was easy. The rubber hose was still there where I left it, so I cut the flanged fitting for the stock cat so I put a normal 3/4" rubber hose on it and keep the one-way check valve to prevent exhaust from back up the hose. With the fitting it was very close to the air fitting on the cat so it only required a short 6" piece of rubber hose.
That took the better part of 2 hours, then I bypassed the manual boost controllers and put the factory ECU back in. Full emissions mode!
So we'll see how I do tomorrow. Nothing is hanging too low- lowest part is the rear butt joint clamp bolts but it's still high enough to not really concern me. My biggest concern is it leaking or just falling apart on the way to the emissions station, or even worse on the dyno! I don't think it will but you never know.
Will update tomorrow with emissions test results!
This made using the butt-joint clamps very difficult because they would get extremely tight on the cat but still be loose on the straight pipe pieces. So then I would torque the crap out of the bolts and it broke a few spot welds holding the flanges together. So then I had to tack them back together but the metal was very thin making it blow out easily. Arrrgg!
I finally got the cat positioned right (had to be tilted slightly) So then I just put a few tack welds around the butt joints on the pipe on both cat and pipe sides to keep it from moving. When putting the cat in and torquing on the flange bolts, it broke a few tack welds as it pulled the pipe into position. It's still in there firmly, however, I just hope it doesn't leak.
Hooking up the air pump was easy. The rubber hose was still there where I left it, so I cut the flanged fitting for the stock cat so I put a normal 3/4" rubber hose on it and keep the one-way check valve to prevent exhaust from back up the hose. With the fitting it was very close to the air fitting on the cat so it only required a short 6" piece of rubber hose.
That took the better part of 2 hours, then I bypassed the manual boost controllers and put the factory ECU back in. Full emissions mode!
So we'll see how I do tomorrow. Nothing is hanging too low- lowest part is the rear butt joint clamp bolts but it's still high enough to not really concern me. My biggest concern is it leaking or just falling apart on the way to the emissions station, or even worse on the dyno! I don't think it will but you never know.
Will update tomorrow with emissions test results!
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chickenwafer
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- Location: Greeley
Sorry, I lied. Started the car up to check for leaks and it leaks at every single joint and flange, so a total of 4 leaks. It's terrible. Not sure how/if I can make it even work. UGHHHHH **** emissions!!!
So now I either have to try and make this one work, take my factory cat to a shop that can weld in a replacement cat (unlikely), or shell out $400 bucks for a high flow cat I only need once every two years. Once again, **** emissions!
So now I either have to try and make this one work, take my factory cat to a shop that can weld in a replacement cat (unlikely), or shell out $400 bucks for a high flow cat I only need once every two years. Once again, **** emissions!
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speedjunkie
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Twisted_grip
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speedjunkie wrote:From what I understand it's gonna be ridiculous. We don't have emissions testing in C Springs though. And I have Illinois plates on my car anyway haha.
What part of Missouri? I lived in Cape Girardeau from 90 to 96, graduated HS there. Originally from IL though.
I lived in Kansas city... own an 94 fd for a while tried three times to get it to pass emissions. Was a headache taking parts out and putting them back on again.
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Twisted_grip
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speedjunkie wrote:Why not just get a high-flow cat and keep it in there? Or do you want to shoot flames? LOL
I think I'll add here that I LOVE not having emissions testing. LOL Of course since I said that I'll have to start failing mine lol.
Flames are good:43007dfa: but I'd keep the high-flow in so you can brag that its a FD that can still pass emissions!
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chickenwafer
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I really think there's no need for me to keep the cat in place all the time. It's heavier and robs horsepower. Plus, with age they degrade so they need replacing. By just using it for emissions purposes it minimizes wear on the cat substrate.
i re-inspected the factory cat core and it doesn't look too bad. The rear of the core looks great, but the front does have two small cracks, but not too bad. So I decided to throw the factory cat in and see if that does the trick.
The trick here I think is to obviously get the cat core hot, so I'm going to drive the car for about 30 minutes before going to get tested with mostly steady state cruising and then some light flogging, too.
If the factory cat doesn't do well and I fail I will order a high flow cat. Just can't decide which one- Bonez seems to have a good reputation but it's $435 bucks from Rotary Performance, whereas RX7Store (ehhh) has a high flow cat with a Magnaflow core for $350 shipped.
i re-inspected the factory cat core and it doesn't look too bad. The rear of the core looks great, but the front does have two small cracks, but not too bad. So I decided to throw the factory cat in and see if that does the trick.
The trick here I think is to obviously get the cat core hot, so I'm going to drive the car for about 30 minutes before going to get tested with mostly steady state cruising and then some light flogging, too.
If the factory cat doesn't do well and I fail I will order a high flow cat. Just can't decide which one- Bonez seems to have a good reputation but it's $435 bucks from Rotary Performance, whereas RX7Store (ehhh) has a high flow cat with a Magnaflow core for $350 shipped.
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speedjunkie
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Hey, you may not like RX7store but they did send me two Commanders LOL.
The reason I mentioned leaving the CAT in all the time is because I thought I had heard from someone that they were thinking about having smog checking vehicles on the side of the road that could check it as you go by, but I think that was Denver anyway and it sounds like space age technology to be honest lol.
The reason I mentioned leaving the CAT in all the time is because I thought I had heard from someone that they were thinking about having smog checking vehicles on the side of the road that could check it as you go by, but I think that was Denver anyway and it sounds like space age technology to be honest lol.
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