Out of everything out there Haltech and AEM are the best no doubt. If you want something easy, and to use the stock harness you can grab a Haltech or AEM or PFC.
As soon as you start building your car past factory needed shit and simply everything, the AEM is not as good as the Haltech. Building your own harness with all new wires is way better than any stock harness will ever be unless you spend a shit load on a brand new one from Mazda. If you want to sit there and modify your stock harness great, but you can order a ready to go simplified harness from Haltech WITH your plug n play unit fully terminated.
And as far as me taking a long time to build my harness, it took me one day and I also wired up an entire board with relays and fuses, built a bracket for my ls1 coils, wired up the fuel pump, wired up the fan for my vmount and oil coolers, and wired all of my greddy gauges up. I mean really, outside of waiting for the braided wire wrap and my new fuel pump to get in, this took the same amount of time as it would to set up your AEM and do your harness so I am very happy with my choice of ditching the awesome AEM setup that I had for this. My AEM worked great, but I have a drift car not a drag or street car so all the extra shit you have to pay for with them is worthless to me really.
Oh, and the other thing that makes it nice, you can sell your stock engine harness and it just cost you LESS than the AEM. I am all about this shit dude, but the difference with mine vs ANY FD guys is my AEM "did not exist" because it had no serial number according to the v1 engineers.
The really cool thing about my setup is the fact that I have ALL brand new stuff and I KNOW its new so it won't fail any time soon. That is huge for me because with my PFC I had issues with some stuff and had to go through fixing shit until the boost solenoid stuck open and blew my engine up so I don't think I will be buying used shit anytime soon.
Haltech's also hold their value much better, which I am beyond happy with in the unlikely event that I sell the setup.
The live tuning thing, maybe his setup is different than the three I have worked with on FD's or there was a lock on them or some shit but I couldn't do it. With my AEM I could literally adjust the map while flooring it because it was built that way haha
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chickenwafer
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That's weird that you couldn't live tune on those AEM's. They can be locked so the tune can't be changed, so you might have encountered that.
I agree a new harness is the way to go, but really my harness is fine. There is a guy selling custom Mil-spec harnesses on 7club right now, that PnP for the FD for $650 which includes all the basic clips to run the engine, and it plugs into factory sensors. I just don't feel like dropping $650 right now on a harness when mine works fine.
I haven't seen a FULL PnP harness for the FD from Haltech. I did see a "sub-harness" someone made that plugs into the factory FD harness then into a Platinum Sport 1000, but it's a crappy sub harness and it cost a crap of money, and nothing in the Haltech comes pre-setup. You have to go in and configure everything yourself. The base tune on the AEM may not be great, but at least it's 100& configured for the FD outta the box. Plus, you're still stuck your stock harness if you use that "sub harness".
Anyways, Haltech's are completely off the table for me- I'm not considering them. If I was building an FC drag car (which I want to in the near future) a Haltech Sport 2000 or MoTeC M888 would be at the top of my list. But for my FD, where I want to keep most of the factory stuff (except for emissions), I'll stick with a PnP options. There aren't many. Can you imagine how much of a nightmare it would be to get a Haltech controlling the stock sequential turbo system of an FD? The AEM and PFC are set up to run it out of the box.
So really, I'm only talking about PFC vs AEM, and in that case, is it even a contest? The AEM is oddles and noodles more powerful and flexible. If you're someone who doesn't know how or isn't interesting in tuning, the PFC is the ECU for you. It's basically a few steps up from a "chipped" factory ecu
I agree a new harness is the way to go, but really my harness is fine. There is a guy selling custom Mil-spec harnesses on 7club right now, that PnP for the FD for $650 which includes all the basic clips to run the engine, and it plugs into factory sensors. I just don't feel like dropping $650 right now on a harness when mine works fine.
I haven't seen a FULL PnP harness for the FD from Haltech. I did see a "sub-harness" someone made that plugs into the factory FD harness then into a Platinum Sport 1000, but it's a crappy sub harness and it cost a crap of money, and nothing in the Haltech comes pre-setup. You have to go in and configure everything yourself. The base tune on the AEM may not be great, but at least it's 100& configured for the FD outta the box. Plus, you're still stuck your stock harness if you use that "sub harness".
Anyways, Haltech's are completely off the table for me- I'm not considering them. If I was building an FC drag car (which I want to in the near future) a Haltech Sport 2000 or MoTeC M888 would be at the top of my list. But for my FD, where I want to keep most of the factory stuff (except for emissions), I'll stick with a PnP options. There aren't many. Can you imagine how much of a nightmare it would be to get a Haltech controlling the stock sequential turbo system of an FD? The AEM and PFC are set up to run it out of the box.
So really, I'm only talking about PFC vs AEM, and in that case, is it even a contest? The AEM is oddles and noodles more powerful and flexible. If you're someone who doesn't know how or isn't interesting in tuning, the PFC is the ECU for you. It's basically a few steps up from a "chipped" factory ecu
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speedjunkie
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RX-7 Chris
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what do you think about this: http://mazdatrix.com/haltechecu.htm
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
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chickenwafer
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speedjunkie wrote:Do you have a link for that Mil-spec PnP harness?
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=926391
RX-7 Chris wrote:what do you think about this: http://mazdatrix.com/haltechecu.htm
Yeah, that uses the "sub harness" I mentioned before. It plugs into the factory harness, then into the Haltech.
It WON'T work with the sequential turbo system, or control a lot of other factory systems, so I'm not 100% sold on it. Plus, it's more expensive.
I will never understand why ANYONE with an FD would keep the stock twins but that's just me haha
When I spoke with Claudio at haltech, he said that they do offer a fully terminated harness for the sport 1000, as well as a flying lead kit, as well as the sub harness thing. Maybe its a special order item or something?
And yeah I dont know why I couldn't access the ecu live tune, but they just would not let me do it. Like I said, I thought it was very weird because I could literally be full throttle and adjust the map on my AEM but I figured it had something to do with the fact that it was a one off board in an FD box, who knows.
What are the final plans for this car anyway?
When I spoke with Claudio at haltech, he said that they do offer a fully terminated harness for the sport 1000, as well as a flying lead kit, as well as the sub harness thing. Maybe its a special order item or something?
And yeah I dont know why I couldn't access the ecu live tune, but they just would not let me do it. Like I said, I thought it was very weird because I could literally be full throttle and adjust the map on my AEM but I figured it had something to do with the fact that it was a one off board in an FD box, who knows.
What are the final plans for this car anyway?
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chickenwafer
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Well eventually it will be single turbo, but that's not happening now. I'm prepping it for single turbo this winter by getting it all ready so basically all I have to do is bolt on a manifold, turbo, downpipe, wastegate, and a pipe and couplers and it will be ready to go. I'll need a clutch then, too.
With the FD it's not just a matter of slapping on an EBay manifold, turbo, dp, w/g, and making more power. You need to do a lot of supporting mods first like a Standalone, upgrade the cooling since on the FD from the factory is sucks, the factory clutch gives up around 350rwhp, and the fuel system needs upgrading to larger injectors which means new rails, and you need a larger pump.
Basically it adds up fast, as we all know, so I'm taking it in stages and enjoying the car. After the FD comes out of the garage this spring, it will be a new car basically, with all new cooling, FMIC, dual oil coolers, catless exhaust, standalone EMS, etc. It will still have the factory twins, but I'm shooting for 360rwhp+ on them. Then, next winter, the single turbo will come
With the FD it's not just a matter of slapping on an EBay manifold, turbo, dp, w/g, and making more power. You need to do a lot of supporting mods first like a Standalone, upgrade the cooling since on the FD from the factory is sucks, the factory clutch gives up around 350rwhp, and the fuel system needs upgrading to larger injectors which means new rails, and you need a larger pump.
Basically it adds up fast, as we all know, so I'm taking it in stages and enjoying the car. After the FD comes out of the garage this spring, it will be a new car basically, with all new cooling, FMIC, dual oil coolers, catless exhaust, standalone EMS, etc. It will still have the factory twins, but I'm shooting for 360rwhp+ on them. Then, next winter, the single turbo will come
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speedjunkie
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Sometimes I still wish I'd stayed with the stock twins because of the boost response. I tossed them because I kept having an issue with not getting full power and all, and now I believe that was probably caused by not having full power to the fuel pump, so I'm kicking myself. I've seen where people made almost 400whp with their stock twins, and I don't think the vacuum lines and solenoids fail all THAT much.
And you can get away with 850/1300 or even 550/1300 for primaries and still make good power and still be able to use the stock rails. I about kicked myself when Zico told me you could get stock type injectors up to 1300 too HAHA.
EDIT: Just looked at that wiring harness. He's out of his freaking mind! $650 in addition to the cost of a core that you supply him. I can do that crap myself! Why pay him $650 to do it?! Gimme a break!
And you can get away with 850/1300 or even 550/1300 for primaries and still make good power and still be able to use the stock rails. I about kicked myself when Zico told me you could get stock type injectors up to 1300 too HAHA.
EDIT: Just looked at that wiring harness. He's out of his freaking mind! $650 in addition to the cost of a core that you supply him. I can do that crap myself! Why pay him $650 to do it?! Gimme a break!
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chickenwafer
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Yeah, $650 for the harness is stupid, considering I could easily make one myself with "mil spec" Raychem spec 55 wire (stuff NASA uses), for less. The only part where it gets tricky is sourcing the OEM connectors. But since he requires my harness for a core, I can use my OEM connections.
I hear you about the twins man. I kinda want to stay sequential, but it's too tempting to go non-sequential and just enjoy a more reliable setup.
If I'm non-sequential and run 550/1300 injectors with a Denso pump, I'd be shocked if I couldn't hit 350rwhp. Even non-seq, spool will be pretty good. If I can't get 350rwhp then it's definitely time for a rebuild LOL
I hear you about the twins man. I kinda want to stay sequential, but it's too tempting to go non-sequential and just enjoy a more reliable setup.
If I'm non-sequential and run 550/1300 injectors with a Denso pump, I'd be shocked if I couldn't hit 350rwhp. Even non-seq, spool will be pretty good. If I can't get 350rwhp then it's definitely time for a rebuild LOL
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chickenwafer
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LOL I don't want to stay with the stock setup, I said I'm going single turbo! Just not now.
The BNR's are also $2100, and a single turbo setup isn't too much more money (just manifold, downpipe, turbo, w/g), since I need all other supporting mods for the BNR's anyways.
How much power do you think the stock twins can do? People have cracked 400rwhp on them (albeit short lived) and most have run 350-380rwhp on them all day long. The BNR's can do 430rwhp at best, so I don't feel like dropping $2100 bucks just for a few more ponies when I can spend just a few hundred bucks more and shoot for 450-500rwhp.
The BNR's are also $2100, and a single turbo setup isn't too much more money (just manifold, downpipe, turbo, w/g), since I need all other supporting mods for the BNR's anyways.
How much power do you think the stock twins can do? People have cracked 400rwhp on them (albeit short lived) and most have run 350-380rwhp on them all day long. The BNR's can do 430rwhp at best, so I don't feel like dropping $2100 bucks just for a few more ponies when I can spend just a few hundred bucks more and shoot for 450-500rwhp.
If the stock turbo's are dying, and you have never driven a single turbo rotary, and you are heart set on the "stock" setup but want more power then BNR's are great.
If a person isn't totally stupid they will buy a single setup though. You should look into Borg Warner turbo's before you even think about looking at buying anything else. They are the best turbo's alive and aren't expensive.
Honestly, my car ran just fine on 550 primaries and 1200 secondaries, but if you port the engine, you will need to run bigger primaries with a single setup for sure.
If a person isn't totally stupid they will buy a single setup though. You should look into Borg Warner turbo's before you even think about looking at buying anything else. They are the best turbo's alive and aren't expensive.
Honestly, my car ran just fine on 550 primaries and 1200 secondaries, but if you port the engine, you will need to run bigger primaries with a single setup for sure.
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chickenwafer
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speedjunkie
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I don't know, I'm loving my 500R now that I'm getting all the voltage to the fuel pump LOL.
But to be honest, when I first finished with my engine rebuild and break in mileage and I stomped the pedal on the stock twins, it didn't feel much different. They actually lifted the front of the car one time too, although not high enough to get the front wheels off the ground, but none-the-less... So I'm pretty sure I'm still not getting ALL the power I'm supposed to be.
I've never tried a BW though.
But to be honest, when I first finished with my engine rebuild and break in mileage and I stomped the pedal on the stock twins, it didn't feel much different. They actually lifted the front of the car one time too, although not high enough to get the front wheels off the ground, but none-the-less... So I'm pretty sure I'm still not getting ALL the power I'm supposed to be.
I've never tried a BW though.
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