My new car!

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 9:14

Yeah the size of the core definitely needs to be taken into consideration, along with placement of the entry and exit of the air (for most cooling efficiency anyway), angle of the entry, etc.

Hugging the alternator? Are you referring to how the stock pipes are set up?

Chance · Postby **Chance** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 9:14

Yeah thats what I am talking about, if the pipes are straight shot (like a true v-mount setup is designed to be) it works better and looks better.

I mean really, one of the main points of a v-mount is to get the heat of the charged air cooled without blocking the radiator and hurting its efficiency all while shortening the pipes to get the air there faster. The main way to actually make use of the setup is to use a vented hood with the v-mount, if you don't have a vented hood, really the efficiency is worse than if you just use a front mount.

The way I built my v-mount setup isn't necessarily the right or best way to do it, but I wanted it to be clean and symmetrical and since I built it around the stock ps pump it actually worked better doing it this way because I can extend the air filter away from the hot area of the engine and seal the hood vent better around the intercooler.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Fri Oct 01, 2010 9:14

I love the look of the pipes "hugging" the alternator. I think it makes it looks more clean and thought-out. Just shows that everyone has a different idea of what they like...

And I want a vented hood, but I want the FEED vented hood which doesn't have vents directly over the intercooler, so it won't be a big help. I don't want a big vent in the hood, I'm trying to stay with the stockish look.

That is why I'm leaning towards the Extreme Turbo Systems (ETS) FMIC kit or a custom Air-2-Water intercooler setup.

Chance · Postby **Chance** » Sat Oct 02, 2010 9:14

Honestly, front mount would be the best way to do it

or just build this http://www.importtuner.com/features/impp_0905_mazda_fd3s_rx7/photo_04.html

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sat Oct 02, 2010 9:14

^LOL that's a full tube frame race car. Obviously when I said "I want a street car" that didn't stick with you :lol:

But yeah, I'm probably doing the front mount. Easiest option and will work great. Hopefully I don't overheat (fingers crossed)

Chance · Postby **Chance** » Sat Oct 02, 2010 9:14

If you overheat you need dual oil coolers, if you have duals and still overheat, you need fans on your oil coolers

My car got hot with the stock FC one which is huge, when I did the stock fc oil cooler with a side mount as well it hasn't gotten hot since

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sat Oct 02, 2010 9:14

I'm doing dual Earls 19-row coolers with all Earls -10AN Braided nylon hose and fittings this winter as well

Chance · Postby **Chance** » Sat Oct 02, 2010 9:14

You shouldn't ever overheat dude, if you do it wont have anything to do with the intercooler

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sun Oct 03, 2010 9:14

OK, so I took a ride in Matt's (Alpha) '94 FD the other night. Granted, he has more parts than I do (FMIC, Efini y-pipe, catless midpipe, and his twin sequential turbo system is operating properly), but his car felt a good chunk quicker than me. And it's not like he's single turbo and I'm not...he's still on the factory ECU!

Also, my idle vacuum has been steadily dropping- very slowly. When I first got the gauge in the idle vac was around -14" or so. Now it is around -12" at idle after warmed up. I'd be happy with that idle vacuum if I had a bridgeport, but with a stock port motor, that's no good.

So I did a compression test today. Pulled the leading plugs (which were pretty bad), replaced them with some 9's I had laying around, warmed the motor up, pulled the leading plugs again and put in the compression tester. I could only get the compression testers fitting in hand-tight so I couldn't fit a wrench in there...

Pulled the EGI relay and did a compression test. First time I didn't hold the valve to see the pulses, I just wanted to see total compression. Had the Fiance crank the car while I check the gauge- 75psi on the rear rotor. What? So I held the valve in and had her crank it again, first face was 65ish, second was 70ish, third was 75.

So basically, I'm having a hard believing those compression numbers. Either my gauge is off, or I didn't get the fitting in there tight enough (hand tight). I have used the compression tester before, on my truck, and I think the compression numbers were right in line, so I don't think my gauge is wrong.

But, at around 75psi of compression, the motor should be hard as hell to start, should have a hard time keeping idle (which is idles rock solid at 800rpm all day long), and feel like a turd. I feel like my car has a lot of pull in upper RPM, and I'm not sure if it's low end lack of grunt comes from a dying motor or my twin seq turbo system not working right (primary turbo boost is only 5psi, supposed to be 10).

So I'm currently debating right now if I should rebuild the motor this winter, or just wait for it to blow up. I don't plan on re-using the housings or anything since I believe they are original to the car, so that's 127,000 miles on them.

iani1.1 · Postby **iani1.1** » Sun Oct 03, 2010 9:14

have as much fun with it now til it blows up. if you dont plan on reusing anything might as well go out with a bang lol

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sun Oct 03, 2010 9:14

^LOL that's my idea right now. Hopefully it just doesn't leave me stranded from home too far. If I wanted to keep the housings then I would just rebuild it now, but I'm pretty sure nearly 130,000 miles turbo housings will be pretty beat. I do want to keep the irons/side housings, tho.

Chance · Postby **Chance** » Sun Oct 03, 2010 9:14

You would be surprised how long they will last dude, I opened a 170k fd engine before and it was in pretty good shape. VERY rebuildable but obviously not perfect.

Just buy some RA seals and do new corner seal springs and side seals and you will probably never have a problem with it. I have watched people "blow up" some engines and have them rebuilt and back together really quick running great. RA apex seals are where its at

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sun Oct 03, 2010 9:14

Yeah I plan on getting the Rotary Aviation rebuild master kit, possibly upgrade to the Super Seals.

Chance · Postby **Chance** » Sun Oct 03, 2010 9:14

You don't need them, dudes who are straight up beating on their cars use the classics with no problem and when they blow stuff up just replace the rear iron, never the seals.

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:14

Welcome to the rebuild club Dave! I'll be getting new housings, Rotary Aviation Master kit and the RA Super seals, that should do it.

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