=(...smoking turbo

[AIM WO4]

I don't know why Speed6's sound like Saab 9-5's. Saab made an improved PCV kit to prevent this from happening on their cars. I also noticed that I would get a puff of smoke on start-up after my last short drive (not enough idle time before shut down).

Maybe Mazda should investigate this to see if it's related to the Saab issue.

[Originalguy]

im pretty sure it is ive heard a lot of discussion about the pcv and stuff but ive never had the patients to read it all...ive also heard its because the system has a design flaw and it never reaches true vacume and because of that something happens to the seals or something and so on and so on and then you get the smoking turbo...its a mystery to me

[mOOsE]

im pretty sure it is ive heard a lot of discussion about the pcv and stuff but ive never had the patients to read it all...ive also heard its because the system has a design flaw and it never reaches true vacume and because of that something happens to the seals or something and so on and so on and then you get the smoking turbo...its a mystery to me

Yup, something along those lines. OCD Eric can esplain more. I believe it has to do with the pressure differences between the oil inlet line to the turbo vs oil outlet, caused by the poor PCV. Exhaust affects it even further as pressure is lost against the seal. Usually why it is not noticed until someone installs a testpipe, CBE, or downpipe. Downpipe is usually the most common reason.

This was one of the better explanations I have read, taken from another forum

"This is where the GB for the oil burning fix starts, and we will be giving a description of what the part does as well.

What it does?

Our testing has shown that the motor pushes oil past the turbo seals due to the crank case pressures. How you ask, well let me try to explain.

The PCV system is supposed to create a vacuum in the motor under cruise and idle conditions. This causes the seals, rings, and drain back to all “seal” when under vacuum. Problem, the motor never really reaches a vacuum point due to the configuration of the system. This causes huge issues with the oil return from the turbo back into the block. Any pressure at all and I mean just one or two psi will cause the oil to back up in the turbo and that in return will cause the oil to push past the seal in the turbo. Now, this doesn’t mean that your turbo is “blown” it just means that the oil has to go somewhere and its “leaking” past the turbo seals.

There is a direct relationship to aftermarket DP causing the turbo seals to leak, so let me explain what happens here.

Every turbo system on every car has before and after turbo pressures. We are going to be talking about aft pressures because this is what causes the seals to leak. If the crankcase has 2 psi of pressure in it and the aft turbo pressure is 5 to 7 psi then the seal will not leak. This example would be with the factory DP install. When you go with an aftermarket DP the pressures drop in the aft turbo side, thus causing the pressure in the crank case to overcome the aft pressures in the turbo. This is where you get your smoking turbo issues from, it’s a design flaw.

Test results are as follows:

Factory DP, factory PCV system in place:

Crank case pressure (idle) 1.2 to 2.0 psi
Aft turbo pressures: 2.8 to 7 psi

Aftermarket DP, factory PCV system in place:

Crank case pressure (idle) 1.2 to 2.4 psi
Aft turbo pressure (idle): 1.0 to 2.0 psi

With the PTP mod installed into the PCV system the crank case pressure moved from a PSI to a vacuum, thus allowing the oil to drain back into the oil pan, vs keeping the oil backed up in the turbo.

For some this may be hard to understand, I mean, how can a pressure in the crank case keep the oil return from working? It’s just like having a blocked or restricted oil return line. Any pressure being applied to the oil return line applies close to 4 times that pressure in the turbo housing. I wish I could have gotten some oil return line pressure readings but that is not where the problem starts, its more inside the turbo than at the line itself and any intrusive testing of pressure in the return line would have been very difficult to monitor due to the testing equipment causing a restriction itself.

So what does this mean? Well good news is, your turbo is not blown (it shouldn’t be but we have seen a few very bad cases that cause the seals to “cook”, thus causing a blown turbo. This is very rare and you will smoke all the time, not just at idle or cruise.) and you can rest knowing that we have a fix for you. Bad news, you are going to have to spend $25 to fix it. If you ask me, it’s a cheap fix for the problem.

I do want to address what you are going to be getting when you place your order. It’s an insert for the PCV system, it takes all but a minute to install and the part really doesn’t consist of much. So when you get it please do not go “this is it?” because we are offering a money back guarantee with the part that it will fix your smoking turbo issues. We have 100’s of man hours into this part, and several cut up PCV systems and valve covers to determine what the cause of the smoking was. We took a look at getting a pat pending on this part (still are in the process) but wanted to get this out to you ASAP at a price we feel is fair and to keep the competition from duplicating it.

If you have any questions about what I have posted here feel free to ask them, thanks.

Link to make a purchase: PT-Performance.com

"

No idea if their fix works though

[AIM WO4]

Swedish Wrench

A mod we did

[movovr]

Yup, something along those lines. OCD Eric can esplain more. I believe it has to do with the pressure differences between the oil inlet line to the turbo vs oil outlet, caused by the poor PCV. Exhaust affects it even further as pressure is lost against the seal. Usually why it is not noticed until someone installs a testpipe, CBE, or downpipe. Downpipe is usually the most common reason.

This was one of the better explanations I have read, taken from another forum
"

No idea if their fix works though

I have it the PTP Pill on my car and it made my part throttle knock go away. I'd say for $25 it's worth a try