Engine Block Heater

Army RX8 · Postby **Army RX8** » Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:14

Im on assignement instructions and will be moving to Alaska in Dec. As such i need to get an engine block heater for my RX8 and my F-150. Anybody know where i can get these?

iani1.1 · Postby **iani1.1** » Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:14

the only place i can think of are diesel websites. i have never seen one for gasoline engines though.

AIM WO4 · Postby **AIM WO4** » Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:14

Get it in Alaska. I'm sure they would have plenty and know how to install.

Roobars are cheaper in Australia, too.

Army RX8 wrote:Im on assignement instructions and will be moving to Alaska in Dec. As such i need to get an engine block heater for my RX8 and my F-150. Anybody know where i can get these?

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:14

I know they make pretty universal heated dipsticks that plug into the wall to help heat your oil so it isn't molasses on start-up. I'd look into those.

Army RX8 · Postby **Army RX8** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:I know they make pretty universal heated dipsticks that plug into the wall to help heat your oil so it isn't molasses on start-up. I'd look into those.

Talked to a mazda dealer in alaska. Apparently the heated dipsticks have a tendancy to burn up the oil, and the reccomend i stay away from them. Found all the heaters except for the engine one for the 8

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:14

They would only "burn oil" if they got ridiculously hot. Most common 4-stroke non-syn oils flash point is around 375*F, with synthetics being around 450-500*F. That means the heating element would have to sustain 375*F+ for extended periods of time- I'm not buying it.

The heating element would probably get to 200*F MAX, most likely less. Because heat rises, the heated oil in the pan will transfer it's heat not only to the oil throughout some of the lower oiling system, but also to the metal surrounding it (irons and housings), keeping the keg nice and warm.

In a -10*F environment (like a garage in Alaska), this would probably keep the engine at room temps if left overnight (around 65-70*F) and the oil at around 165-195*F.

Furthermore, there should be some heated dipsticks you can adjust the temperature on, to prevent heating the oil and engine too much when it's no frigid outside.

PXRdriFT · Postby **PXRdriFT** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:14

I did a 3 year assignment in N. Dakota and survived without a block heater cause my car stayed in a garage overnight. Temps far exceed Alaska's temps. Are you planning on driving the 8 much up there in the winter?

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:14

^That would be my summation, as well, if the car is parked in a garage (preferably attached to a house) you won't really need a block heater.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Tue Jul 20, 2010 9:14

And driving a RWD car in the winter...in Alaska...not me man, not me LOL. I can't even drive mine in C Springs in the winter LOL.

Operator · Postby **Operator** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:^That would be my summation, as well, if the car is parked in a garage (preferably attached to a house) you won't really need a block heater.

But what happens when he parks his car at work for a 8-12 hour shift and the temp dips well into the negatives.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:14

That's why he can't really drive it in the winter. I mean, it's a RWD anyway. How good is a RWD car in the snow and ice? LOL I can tell you from experience...NONE. LOL

Not to mention (and this can happen to any car), you can't set your parking brake in the winter up there because the pads will freeze to the rotors/drums.

Operator · Postby **Operator** » Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:14

He still needs to find a solution for his F-150. And I agree with you 100% about RWD cars in the snow and ice, but with some good snow tires, he should still be able to get around after a light snow. And use his F-150 when the heavy stuff hits.

Where in AK are you going? Fairbanks gets a good deal colder than Anchorage.

Army RX8 · Postby **Army RX8** » Sat Jul 24, 2010 9:14

Fairbanks it is. Got the heater problem for the RX-8 solved. I was finally able to get a hold of Mazda of Fairbanks. Theres a couple of rx-8s and rx-7s up there, but not many. There was one that just recently showed up at the dealership the day i called. Long story short, to winterize an RX-8 you need:

- a 75 watt oil pan heater
- a 60 watt battery heater
- washer solvent
- 50 below 0 antifreeze
- Artic/ Aviation power steering fluid
- High pressure line clamps need to be swapped from squeeze type to screw type

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sat Jul 24, 2010 9:14

Army RX8 wrote:Fairbanks it is. Got the heater problem for the RX-8 solved. I was finally able to get a hold of Mazda of Fairbanks. Theres a couple of rx-8s and rx-7s up there, but not many. There was one that just recently showed up at the dealership the day i called. Long story short, to winterize an RX-8 you need:

- a 75 watt oil pan heater
- a 60 watt battery heater
- washer solvent
- 50 below 0 antifreeze
[color="Red"]- Artic/ Aviation power steering fluid[/color]
- High pressure line clamps need to be swapped from squeeze type to screw type

A MAZDA DEALERSHIP told you that you need that?????!!!!!

The RX-8 has electric power steering...LMAO. Ohhh geez.

Anyways, the other stuff looks good, forgot about the battery heater and ultra cold antifreeze. Is the car going to parked in a garage? I know it doesn't get nearly as cold here, but in my garage (with the heater off) it never dipped below 30*F, even when it was -13*F. That's a 43*F temperature delta.

Postby **Huzer** » Sat Jul 24, 2010 9:14

RWD is fine in snow/ice. I did a-ok with the RX8 unless it was terribly deep. Growing up in northern NY with much more significant snow fall than here, you have to learn to drive in the white stuff.

As far as block heaters and such, a few random people had them in NY (January is typically below zero or single digits for the entire month) but they weren't a necessity. Worst issue I had was breaking the key in the door while trying to unlock (before the days of fancy keyless entry). My '72 2WD C10 never failed to start. Granted, I'm not trying to say that NY/Alaska have the same climate over an extended period of time.

I'd like to see the dealer charge for the power steering fluid...

Engine Block Heater

Engine Block Heater

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