S5 T2 engine (JDM or USDM)
S5 T2 or NA wiring harness (JDM or USDM)
S5 T2 block off plates
S4 NA wiring harness
S4 T2 ECU along with sometype of piggback (SAFC, Greddy Emanage, etc.) or standalone (rtek, megasquirt, PFC, etc.) (N332 or N333)
S4 T2 throttle body and tps
S4 T2 boost sensor (N318)
S4 T2 throttle cable
S4 alternator
T2 Hood
Bigger fuel pump (FD fuel pump, walbro 255, T2 fuel pump)
Downpipe and Exhaust
Boost gauge
Blow off valve (only if it didn't come with one)
Pinapple racing OMP Plugs
Once you have all things above now you're ready to get the started
First start with the obvious things like drain all the fluids, disconnect all connections from the engine, remove hoses and so forth. When removing the engine harness, make sure to fully take it out of the car rather than leaving it in the car while i pulled the engine out of the car. Can cause this to happen
.With the engine out of the car, go to your new/used turbo engine and start removing all the emissions and OMP. Then remove the OMP injector and use the OMP plugs to block them. Now plug up all the plugs where the vacuum lines used to be with vacuum caps. Once thats done attach longer fuel hoses to the fuel rail. Now the engine is ready to go in the car.
Note: JDM fuel rails run backwards so the fuel filter side of the hose goes to the secondary fuel rail and returns from the primary fuel rail to the return line.
Before getting the engine in the car, make sure the engine bay is free of all the emissions crap (charcoal canister, cold start bottle, useless vacuum lines, etc.). These tend to get in the way of things. Also please clean the engine bay of grease, if you willing to do all this work atleast clean your damn engine bay. Anyways, check if the motor mounts are still in good condition. If not you can always get new mounts or since this is a budget swap you can get hockey pucks as motor mounts but i do not recommend these cause of the tendency to break if you choose to further mod your engine.
Now that the engine is in, now it's time for the wiring harness. You will need you old s4 wiring harness and a s5 wiring harness. Does not matter if the s5 is turbo or na. Swap out the s5 injector clips and solder them to the s4 wiring harness. This makes it so you can actually plug in your wiring harness to the injectors. Once that's done, with the s4 na afm you will need to adjust the spring tension to prevent the car from running overly rich at idle. You also may want to port the t2 throttle body since there are no emssions on the car and remove the secondary butterflies on the tb.
Note: The white plug on the emissions harness must be cut and soldered to the knock sensor wires. This way so you can use power steering with having the car retard itself by about 20 degrees whenever the power steering is activated.
Now plug the wiring harness to the engine, swap out alternators, plug in ecu, connect piggyback system, put in all the fluids needed and a little bit of 2 stroke oil in the gas tank. Do your final checks see if everthing is plugged in and fluids are in the engine. Now start it, it might take a few cranks to get it started. The fuel pump needs to prime and pressurize before it can actually start.
I left some things out cause there pretty much self explanatory.
now a short video of the first start up. I used front mounted intercooler setup cause I didn't have a t2 hood at the time.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJzUG7JHBwU"]YouTube - first startup after swap[/ame]
some pics of my swap
http://s889.photobucket.com/albums/ac97/rotaryian7/The%20RX7%20FC3s/TII%20swap/
Also since this was a budget swap total cost came to about 2000-2200 that's including the engine, new exhast, new parts and other misc crap i bought lol.
