I'm pretty sure the rotors I have will work. To be sure I'm going to measure them with my micrometer this weekend and get all the clearances out of the FSM. I'm pretty confident they will be in-spec. I want to be sure, however, as I want to spec this motor good for 600+rwhp....just in case haha.
I'm still torn as to what clutch to get. The more I read about an ACT 6-puck sprung clutch I think it will be fine. Plenty of people have gotten more than 10,000 miles on them without issue. The biggest issue is the abrupt engagement of the clutch, like an on/off switch.
The kit is $650 but the good news is the replacement disc is only $137 so it's cheap to service. It's just a matter of pedal feel and engagement, but I think I'll get used to it, especially if I'm saving $1,000 over an Exedy twin disc setup.
My new car!
- speedjunkie
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Yeah I'm pretty sure they'll work too. Good thing you're spec'ing them just in case though haha.
Nope! Mine is a 6 puck sprung, and mine isn't like an on-off switch. You can slide it if need be, hell even with Simon's twin plate it isn't on-off. His engagement wasn't near as bad as I was expecting. The only thing with a sprung clutch that I don't like is the lurching you get, usually at take-off, or when driving slowly and you engage the clutch again. I'm trying to remember when it happens haha, I forget now that I haven't driven the car in a while. With the sprung clutch, you don't WANT it to be on-off cause then you'll start bouncing and lurching forward. And I've gotten well over 10k out of mine too.
I always end up getting a new pressure plate when I do my clutch. Maybe I can get away with not doing that next time haha. Do most people just replace the disc?
Nope! Mine is a 6 puck sprung, and mine isn't like an on-off switch. You can slide it if need be, hell even with Simon's twin plate it isn't on-off. His engagement wasn't near as bad as I was expecting. The only thing with a sprung clutch that I don't like is the lurching you get, usually at take-off, or when driving slowly and you engage the clutch again. I'm trying to remember when it happens haha, I forget now that I haven't driven the car in a while. With the sprung clutch, you don't WANT it to be on-off cause then you'll start bouncing and lurching forward. And I've gotten well over 10k out of mine too.
I always end up getting a new pressure plate when I do my clutch. Maybe I can get away with not doing that next time haha. Do most people just replace the disc?
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^Yeah, I'm reading most just replace the disc in their ACT setups. It's only $137 for a new sprung 6-puck disc from Banzai. The kit is only $630 with the pressure plate, release bearing, etc, from Banzai as well.
I wasn't saying a twin plate is on/off, it's more stock like, from what I am reading, you can slip a twin plate much easier than a puck style clutch.
Eric, did you get the HD (heavy duty) or XD (eXtreme Duty) sprung 6-puck? I'm looking at the HD kit because it says "stock to moderate" pedal feel and is rated for 514 ft-lbs of torque. The XD is rated for 577 ft-lbs of torque and claims a "moderate to stiff" pedal.
I wasn't saying a twin plate is on/off, it's more stock like, from what I am reading, you can slip a twin plate much easier than a puck style clutch.
Eric, did you get the HD (heavy duty) or XD (eXtreme Duty) sprung 6-puck? I'm looking at the HD kit because it says "stock to moderate" pedal feel and is rated for 514 ft-lbs of torque. The XD is rated for 577 ft-lbs of torque and claims a "moderate to stiff" pedal.

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Ordered some parts and fittings to drop in the 2 Denso Supra TT fuel pumps so I can get started on that. Figured while I'm waiting on engine rebuild related parts I can get a jump start on getting stuff done on the chassis while I wait.
I'm also going to rip out all the wiring for my Snow water/meth kit and either decide to sell the kit once in for all or completely re-wire it. I have some weird intermittent pump issues where it will spray, then stop spraying, then spray, etc. Not good when utilizing an aggressive, water/meth based tune. I'm not positive if it's my wiring job or just an inherent flaw with the Snow kit. I had similar issues on my RX-8 with the exact same kit so I'm leaning towards it being the kit.
I'm also going to rip out all the wiring for my Snow water/meth kit and either decide to sell the kit once in for all or completely re-wire it. I have some weird intermittent pump issues where it will spray, then stop spraying, then spray, etc. Not good when utilizing an aggressive, water/meth based tune. I'm not positive if it's my wiring job or just an inherent flaw with the Snow kit. I had similar issues on my RX-8 with the exact same kit so I'm leaning towards it being the kit.

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- speedjunkie
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chickenwafer wrote:I wasn't saying a twin plate is on/off, it's more stock like, from what I am reading, you can slip a twin plate much easier than a puck style clutch.
Eric, did you get the HD (heavy duty) or XD (eXtreme Duty) sprung 6-puck? I'm looking at the HD kit because it says "stock to moderate" pedal feel and is rated for 514 ft-lbs of torque. The XD is rated for 577 ft-lbs of torque and claims a "moderate to stiff" pedal.
Oh I know you weren't talking about twin plates. I was just commenting on how they weren't what I expected.
I emailed you already but I got the XD I believe.
chickenwafer wrote:I'm also going to rip out all the wiring for my Snow water/meth kit and either decide to sell the kit once in for all or completely re-wire it. I have some weird intermittent pump issues where it will spray, then stop spraying, then spray, etc. Not good when utilizing an aggressive, water/meth based tune. I'm not positive if it's my wiring job or just an inherent flaw with the Snow kit. I had similar issues on my RX-8 with the exact same kit so I'm leaning towards it being the kit.
That's exactly why I don't want to tune up on water/meth, just in case it breaks. If you don't tune up on it you don't have to worry about losing an engine if something goes wrong, adding one more system that's able to fail.
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VRx8 wrote:I think im going with the AEM and tapping the washer fluid reservoir
The AEM is a good kit. It's entry level, but it does have a bunch of features (although some you can't use on a rotary, such as auto retarding of ignition timing during a pump failure) and it's a great price for what you great IMO.
I tapped the washer fluid tank so I can still use washer fluid on the windshield (I never do tho haha) and also pull my water/meth fluid. Works great and keeps it stealth.
speedjunkie wrote:Oh I know you weren't talking about twin plates. I was just commenting on how they weren't what I expected.
I emailed you already but I got the XD I believe.
That's exactly why I don't want to tune up on water/meth, just in case it breaks. If you don't tune up on it you don't have to worry about losing an engine if something goes wrong, adding one more system that's able to fail.
Yeah, got the email about the XD. I just sent it to be sure because I'm ordering the clutch here soon. I feel good about the ACT 6-puck sprung hub because people are running 600+rwhp without slipping on it. I won't be near that without a different turbo so I feel good.
I hear you about not utilizing an aggressive tune with water/meth to avoid a doomsday scenario, but then the water/meth is robbing you of power. Without tuning for it (more boost, slightly leaner AFR, and advanced ignition timing), then the water/meth is just displacing air and fuel and and you're loosing some power from it.
The good news is the water/meth is still steam cleaning the inside the engine, preventing carbon build up, and it's still acting as a buffer to combustion helping to prevent detonation, and drops EGT's. So there are still plenty of benefits, but if you're not running water/meth for power, then I would just run straight distilled water.

- chickenwafer
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I decided to go ahead and start the porting today. I forgot the take before pictures but I still have 1 untouched secondary intake port so that will serve as reference.
I used a black Sharpie to mark out an area then used the Pineapple template and my titanium scribe pen to mark the porting area, then removed the template. I first started with some various grinding stones and to my surprise, the stones removed the cast iron plate material quicker than anticipated. I then moved on to the Eastwood carbide burrs which, naturally, removed even more material quickly.
Once I hit the scribe line, I put a 45* angle on the leading edge of the port to help avoid snagging of the corner/side seal and provide a nice, smooth transition. I then used a polishing stone to remove some cast flashing and help shape the bowl area and transition. I'm not polishing the port much more as I want a somewhat rough surface.
The only real issue I have is at the bottom edge of the port where it tappers small, I got a small nick just below. This is intake side so I'm not really worried about it but more or less annoyed it happened. Also, that same lowered area of the port needs a little more smoothing.
Anyways, here's the token iPhone picture as I'm too lazy to get my real camera out:

I used a black Sharpie to mark out an area then used the Pineapple template and my titanium scribe pen to mark the porting area, then removed the template. I first started with some various grinding stones and to my surprise, the stones removed the cast iron plate material quicker than anticipated. I then moved on to the Eastwood carbide burrs which, naturally, removed even more material quickly.
Once I hit the scribe line, I put a 45* angle on the leading edge of the port to help avoid snagging of the corner/side seal and provide a nice, smooth transition. I then used a polishing stone to remove some cast flashing and help shape the bowl area and transition. I'm not polishing the port much more as I want a somewhat rough surface.
The only real issue I have is at the bottom edge of the port where it tappers small, I got a small nick just below. This is intake side so I'm not really worried about it but more or less annoyed it happened. Also, that same lowered area of the port needs a little more smoothing.
Anyways, here's the token iPhone picture as I'm too lazy to get my real camera out:


- speedjunkie
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chickenwafer wrote:Yeah, got the email about the XD. I just sent it to be sure because I'm ordering the clutch here soon. I feel good about the ACT 6-puck sprung hub because people are running 600+rwhp without slipping on it. I won't be near that without a different turbo so I feel good.
I hear you about not utilizing an aggressive tune with water/meth to avoid a doomsday scenario, but then the water/meth is robbing you of power. Without tuning for it (more boost, slightly leaner AFR, and advanced ignition timing), then the water/meth is just displacing air and fuel and and you're loosing some power from it.
The good news is the water/meth is still steam cleaning the inside the engine, preventing carbon build up, and it's still acting as a buffer to combustion helping to prevent detonation, and drops EGT's. So there are still plenty of benefits, but if you're not running water/meth for power, then I would just run straight distilled water.
Wow, I didn't know people were using that clutch for 600+ successfully, I guess I won't have to trade up for a while lol.
The problem with using straight water for us is because it freezes in the winter and it broke my original pressure sensor, that's the only reason I'm using washer fluid. And I'm doing it for the benefits of cleaning the inside and most importantly saving an engine, I could care less if I'm robbed of some HP. I don't NEED 500hp, but I NEED to save my engine LOL.
chickenwafer wrote:I decided to go ahead and start the porting today. I forgot the take before pictures but I still have 1 untouched secondary intake port so that will serve as reference.
I used a black Sharpie to mark out an area then used the Pineapple template and my titanium scribe pen to mark the porting area, then removed the template. I first started with some various grinding stones and to my surprise, the stones removed the cast iron plate material quicker than anticipated. I then moved on to the Eastwood carbide burrs which, naturally, removed even more material quickly.
Once I hit the scribe line, I put a 45* angle on the leading edge of the port to help avoid snagging of the corner/side seal and provide a nice, smooth transition. I then used a polishing stone to remove some cast flashing and help shape the bowl area and transition. I'm not polishing the port much more as I want a somewhat rough surface.
The only real issue I have is at the bottom edge of the port where it tappers small, I got a small nick just below. This is intake side so I'm not really worried about it but more or less annoyed it happened. Also, that same lowered area of the port needs a little more smoothing.
Anyways, here's the token iPhone picture as I'm too lazy to get my real camera out:
The porting looks good! I know what you mean about the mark, but we all just need to remember that it's going to be inside the engine so no one will see it LOL. But I'm with you, just knowing it's there would get on my nerves haha.
- chickenwafer
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- speedjunkie
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- speedjunkie
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Have you seen this thread for deals on clutches?
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=912458&page=2
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=912458&page=2
- chickenwafer
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