Car keeps dying

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Nick Leone
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Car keeps dying

Postby Nick Leone » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:14

Ok so three days ago my car died cause my battery died, I got it jumped and it ran for a mile or two then died again, so my dad came and put a new battery in the car(not the right one but it started) The next morning I took it to (I will never take it here again) Pep Boys and had the alternator and battery checked they said that both were fine and I went home and put my battery on charge over night, the next morning I put it back in the car and run errands and it dies about half way into them. It ends up that I go and buy a new battery due to the old one being bad, but this morning on my way to work the lights on my car got really dim I get to work and the car dies, I checked the battery with a volt meter before it died and it was only putting out 6 and change with the car on. Help what could be wrong?

P.S. sorry for the word battery being used so much :)
Nick Leone
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Mods: Short Ram intake, Front and rear strut tower braces, Corksport Power series cat back exhaust, APR CF side mirrors, short throw shifter, Bronzoil shifter bushings, MX-3 Rear lower tie bar and 18% tint.
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~Barn~
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Postby ~Barn~ » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:14

I know you said they did it already, but I would have another place check the alternator. The charged (old) battery may have had enough juice to get you through that first half of your stuff the other day, but if it wasn't getting any return, the symptoms of it dying a slow death, are in keeping with an alternator that is on its way out.

Same with the brand new battery. It obviously had enough juice to start you up in the cold weather and get you on the road this AM, but as you drove, if it wasn't getting any return, the same slow death pattern is there.

I don't know the scientific intricacies of the low voltage, but I can only guess that a weakened battery would display low readings.
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RX-7 Chris
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Postby RX-7 Chris » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:14

Battery cables. I would replace then because I bet that is the problem.
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Nick Leone
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Postby Nick Leone » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:14

ok I'll do that and yeah I took it to Pep Boys and they charged me 16 bucks so that they could test it on there 10,000 dollar machine lol
Nick Leone
99 FSP 10 HS
Mods: Short Ram intake, Front and rear strut tower braces, Corksport Power series cat back exhaust, APR CF side mirrors, short throw shifter, Bronzoil shifter bushings, MX-3 Rear lower tie bar and 18% tint.
http://www.myspace.com/nicklphotography
http://imbob29.deviantart.com/

Nick Leone
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Postby Nick Leone » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:14

RX-7 Chris wrote:Battery cables. I would replace then because I bet that is the problem.

Damn I hope its not that cause the + cable is spidered in to a lot of stuff :(
Nick Leone
99 FSP 10 HS
Mods: Short Ram intake, Front and rear strut tower braces, Corksport Power series cat back exhaust, APR CF side mirrors, short throw shifter, Bronzoil shifter bushings, MX-3 Rear lower tie bar and 18% tint.
http://www.myspace.com/nicklphotography
http://imbob29.deviantart.com/

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~Barn~
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Postby ~Barn~ » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:14

They charged you to test it? Ouch.

If it ends up being the cables, I would buy them from Pep Boys, and insist that they apply that $10 towards it. Checking their condition should have been part of the "diagnostic". Especially if they are going to have the audacity to charge you for it!

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RX-7 Chris
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Postby RX-7 Chris » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:14

that is usuall the way the cables are but that is my best guess. Change out the - first and see how it does and then go from there.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]

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Postby MazdaTom » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:14

An autopart store should NEVER charge you to have shit tested. Guess I'm never going to Pep Boys ever again for anything.

Did they actually test the alternator on the car or on their bench? And how did they test the battery? In the car or on the machine?

It definitely sounds like something with your charging/electrical system.
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Postby tbot » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:14

I agree, it sounds like either bad cables resulting in a poor connection causing too much resistance to charge or your alternator going bad and not charging anything at all. And yeah Pep Boys, not a big fan. I know checker will test all this for free but its in the car. On the other hand, its not that hard to figure out yourself, if when the car is running and you put a volt meter on the battery and your not getting 13.5-14.5 volts your alternator isn't puting out enough juice to charge the battery.

Nick Leone
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Postby Nick Leone » Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:14

It is fixed now I got a new alternator and battery and all is good. :D
Nick Leone
99 FSP 10 HS
Mods: Short Ram intake, Front and rear strut tower braces, Corksport Power series cat back exhaust, APR CF side mirrors, short throw shifter, Bronzoil shifter bushings, MX-3 Rear lower tie bar and 18% tint.
http://www.myspace.com/nicklphotography
http://imbob29.deviantart.com/

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RX-7 Chris
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Postby RX-7 Chris » Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:14

Thats great
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]

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