Even though I'm deployed I've still managed to do a little work with the car lol. I went through the Syvecs app settings on my iPad mini and fixed a few things and changed some of the gauges that I'll be viewing, mainly so I can compare the air temps between the turbo inlet and UIM and see how effective the IC is, and to ensure my calculations in the app are correct.
I also ordered a catalytic converter from Rotary Performance because I'm tired of smelling raw exhaust and I added it to my old man list of mods lol. I took Jewel for a ride right before I left and the car gave her a headache, so it has to happen. I'll also fix the raw fuel smell while I'm at it.
Build thread
- speedjunkie
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- $crillaTor
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Re: Build thread
Ugh... I need to do the same thing with mine Eric. A high-flow cat is a must. The smell gives me headaches also so badly that I've barely driven the car in the last year.
- speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread
I read some good reviews on 7club about the Bonez one from RP, that's why I went with that one. I never even thought about it all these years, I totally forgot what it was like having a cat lol. I'm actually kinda excited to have one again, not that there's even a remote chance that it would pass emissions, thank goodness we don't have to worry about that and I hope we never do. The fact that it's kept you from driving the car is why it's now on my old-man mods list haha.
Now I'm hoping that putting the charcoal canister back in will take care of the fuel smell and I won't have to figure out how to route it into the engine again.
If I can get rid of all these smells maybe I'll actually do Alcantara on the interior. I started thinking the smell would stick to it.
Now I'm hoping that putting the charcoal canister back in will take care of the fuel smell and I won't have to figure out how to route it into the engine again.
If I can get rid of all these smells maybe I'll actually do Alcantara on the interior. I started thinking the smell would stick to it.
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Re: Build thread
I have the Bonez setup on my GSLSE. Overall I like the setup but I wasn't 100% satisfied with it. I have there stock bolt-in setup for my car. The flanges were warped and the bend wasn't right for the car. I still need to replace one of the flanges because I have a massive exhaust leak. I burn through exhaust gaskets in a few weeks.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
- speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread
That's what I have, and ours comes with the pipe for emissions but I'm just going to cap it off in case I ever sell it. I've heard good reviews about the one for the FD. I heard they bend the flanges back so that it puts pressure on the center part to seal better. I remember you saying before that yours is bent but I don't remember which way it's bent. What kind of gaskets are you using? I never use the pressed ones with all the little dimples. I get mutli-layer ones from GrimmSpeed. They're a Subie company but they work for us too. But I imagine you're probably not using a 3" exhaust huh?
- speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread
I think these are the gaskets I got.
http://www.grimmspeed.com/grimmspeed-do ... -3-gasket/
And they have these 2.5" gaskets if that's what you have.
http://www.grimmspeed.com/grimmspeed-2- ... -5-gasket/
http://www.grimmspeed.com/grimmspeed-do ... -3-gasket/
And they have these 2.5" gaskets if that's what you have.
http://www.grimmspeed.com/grimmspeed-2- ... -5-gasket/
- RX-7 Chris
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Re: Build thread
I haven't tried that gasket but I did install solid copper gaskets and that didn't help either.
One my pipe it isn't just the center popping out, it is completely warped and deformed. They did say if I sent it back to them, they would fix it. It was cheaper for me to get the new upgraded (thicker and higher quality steel) flanges than the shipping would have cost me.
One my pipe it isn't just the center popping out, it is completely warped and deformed. They did say if I sent it back to them, they would fix it. It was cheaper for me to get the new upgraded (thicker and higher quality steel) flanges than the shipping would have cost me.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
- speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread
Oh that's right, now I remember. So you haven't swapped the flanges yet? It's almost summer, better get on it! lol
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Re: Build thread
speedjunkie wrote:Oh that's right, now I remember. So you haven't swapped the flanges yet? It's almost summer, better get on it! lol
I need to get someone to help me weld it. We replaced the front flange but I still need to do the rear flange.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
- speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread
I've been talking with Jason about designing a new fuel rail, for a few reasons. I had the pulsation issue when Chris was tuning it a couple years ago, and while his solution works, I'd like it a little more streamlined and it might work even better with the damper in the flow of the fuel rather than off the side of the rail. I'd also like to get back to how I had the fuel lines routed originally, that way both pumps are supplying both rails instead of one pump going to each. I was also thinking that since now I have four injectors instead of two, maybe the internal bore of the rail should be larger, but I don't know much about fluid dynamics and if that's a good idea haha. I plan on using a GT-R damper like the CJ Motorsports rails if possible. Here are the rail options from CJ Motorsports.
https://cj-motorsports.com/products/cjm ... th-y-block
I saw one of the FDs on the pics page on 7club had an interesting hatch glass. It fit almost all the way out to the edges of the opening and didn't have a seal. I asked him about it and he said it's a Lexan piece from the UK and it's much lighter than the real glass (that's good, obviously), doesn't have the defroster lines (eh, I'd rather have the defroster), and is larger so you don't need to use a seal. I would think the regular glass is more durable, but maybe not, and it's heavier, and I need glass for the hatch I'll be putting on so I was thinking about doing this. The price isn't bad, the shipping is what's brutal. So it would be a few hundred dollars to get it home, and I'm not sure I wanna spend that much just to save some weight and not have to use a rear seal. It does look really clean though without the seal.
http://www.plastics4performance.com/win ... creen.html
pn1yqwz_02052019dc14b33321e6d63827ff03fe816088d3 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
t39hmvm_7009283c700eb4c6e091f8dfdb94ab953793f131 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
The same guy that had the Lexan hatch also relocated his fuel filler haha. He put it behind the left taillight and used a really cool filler cap that's low profile, but you have to open the hatch to fuel the car and I wouldn't be trying to do that in the winter, when it's raining or windy, etc. I had thought about moving it to under the center tail light and put the light on hinges so it can pop up, and this would have the added bonus of being able to pull up to the pumps on either side of the car. But again, this is more than likely never going to happen.
xhfqzaq_f11a7e1fe47876bea081e34611ec4af047ec0438 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
qtfwldi_aae2e876351a056c2a39b4890f6091b4dd396e58 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
And another thing that guy did (he did a lot of cool stuff) was use air cups from StanceParts so he can raise his car up to get over stuff. I love this idea and I've thought about it before but it used to be way more expensive. I could get the setup for around $1000-1500, but I'm not crazy about adding the weight to the car (although it's not really that much weight). It's more about the noise of the compressor. I thought about trying to mount the compressor under the car and the tank in the bin behind the driver's seat. Hopefully that would kill some of the noise and not even be able to see the system. I also thought about the hydraulic kit from KW that functions the same way, but that's about $5k. Uh, yeah I think I'll pass on that lol. That one also takes a bit longer to raise, but at least you don't hear anything. You can see his tank and compressor in one of the pics above.
https://www.stanceparts.com/product/com ... ront-rear/
https://cj-motorsports.com/products/cjm ... th-y-block
I saw one of the FDs on the pics page on 7club had an interesting hatch glass. It fit almost all the way out to the edges of the opening and didn't have a seal. I asked him about it and he said it's a Lexan piece from the UK and it's much lighter than the real glass (that's good, obviously), doesn't have the defroster lines (eh, I'd rather have the defroster), and is larger so you don't need to use a seal. I would think the regular glass is more durable, but maybe not, and it's heavier, and I need glass for the hatch I'll be putting on so I was thinking about doing this. The price isn't bad, the shipping is what's brutal. So it would be a few hundred dollars to get it home, and I'm not sure I wanna spend that much just to save some weight and not have to use a rear seal. It does look really clean though without the seal.
http://www.plastics4performance.com/win ... creen.html
pn1yqwz_02052019dc14b33321e6d63827ff03fe816088d3 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
t39hmvm_7009283c700eb4c6e091f8dfdb94ab953793f131 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
The same guy that had the Lexan hatch also relocated his fuel filler haha. He put it behind the left taillight and used a really cool filler cap that's low profile, but you have to open the hatch to fuel the car and I wouldn't be trying to do that in the winter, when it's raining or windy, etc. I had thought about moving it to under the center tail light and put the light on hinges so it can pop up, and this would have the added bonus of being able to pull up to the pumps on either side of the car. But again, this is more than likely never going to happen.
xhfqzaq_f11a7e1fe47876bea081e34611ec4af047ec0438 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
qtfwldi_aae2e876351a056c2a39b4890f6091b4dd396e58 by Eric Jausel, on Flickr
And another thing that guy did (he did a lot of cool stuff) was use air cups from StanceParts so he can raise his car up to get over stuff. I love this idea and I've thought about it before but it used to be way more expensive. I could get the setup for around $1000-1500, but I'm not crazy about adding the weight to the car (although it's not really that much weight). It's more about the noise of the compressor. I thought about trying to mount the compressor under the car and the tank in the bin behind the driver's seat. Hopefully that would kill some of the noise and not even be able to see the system. I also thought about the hydraulic kit from KW that functions the same way, but that's about $5k. Uh, yeah I think I'll pass on that lol. That one also takes a bit longer to raise, but at least you don't hear anything. You can see his tank and compressor in one of the pics above.
https://www.stanceparts.com/product/com ... ront-rear/
Last edited by speedjunkie on Wed May 02, 2018 9:14, edited 1 time in total.
- speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread
Another thing I'm gonna try to do is get the threaded hole fixed on the bottom of the car, the one that got worn out from trying to bolt up the diff cradle/brace. I don't know if a helicoil would work since there's nothing behind it to stop it from passing all the way through, so I'm wondering if it's going to have to be cut out and replaced somehow. Any ideas?
Re: Build thread
weld it shut, drill it then tap it.
- speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread
Yeah I suppose I could do that. Might be the only way.
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Re: Build thread
I am SUPER stoked about coming home soon. And I have several projects to start after the meet on the 28th and after the first Saturday car show/Golden Super Cruise and possibly the track day after. I really need to get started as early as possible to be finished by early November though.
A post on facebook in one of the RX-7 groups was a guy asking how to get his wipers to move faster. They do move slow, but I never thought much of it. Someone mentioned that they used a little power converter to bump the power up from 12v to 18v on his windows and they moved as fast as on newer cars, and I have noticed before that the windows are super slow. That got me thinking about using one to bump up the voltage to the blower motor so hopefully the AC and heat will be more effective. He said he used this kind off ebay so I bought six of them so I could do the windows and blower motor and have some spares or use them on other things that are moving too slowly haha.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/132699411232
And I went through my to do list and figured out things I need to work on immediately and things that can wait. I'm planning on taking the first week off and then start busting ass the second week onward.
A post on facebook in one of the RX-7 groups was a guy asking how to get his wipers to move faster. They do move slow, but I never thought much of it. Someone mentioned that they used a little power converter to bump the power up from 12v to 18v on his windows and they moved as fast as on newer cars, and I have noticed before that the windows are super slow. That got me thinking about using one to bump up the voltage to the blower motor so hopefully the AC and heat will be more effective. He said he used this kind off ebay so I bought six of them so I could do the windows and blower motor and have some spares or use them on other things that are moving too slowly haha.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/132699411232
And I went through my to do list and figured out things I need to work on immediately and things that can wait. I'm planning on taking the first week off and then start busting ass the second week onward.
- speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread
Someone on 7club brought up a good point. The little boards I bought don't have the amp rating for the blower motor, so I bought this for the blower. Hopefully it works.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/301917121917
Another thing he suggested was using a rare earth magnet on the motor to make it spin faster. I'd never heard of this, but apparently it works, so I think I'll try that first.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkKk7qSaKJY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/301917121917
Another thing he suggested was using a rare earth magnet on the motor to make it spin faster. I'd never heard of this, but apparently it works, so I think I'll try that first.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkKk7qSaKJY
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