Build thread

[speedjunkie]

"It cures all 2-cycle woes!" lol

[speedjunkie]

I'm still talking to Chris about this ECU situation. I think we about have the options narrowed down. I'm thinking I'll probably ditch the drive by wire idea. There are some benefits (anti-lag, cruise control, and a couple others), but the only one I'm really concerned with is cruise control and Matt (Alpha) has been helping with that...that's to say he's been doing everything to figure out what's wrong with it lol. Either way, I think the stock cruise control is still doable. That said, if I ditch DBW it will free up four inputs that I can use for other things (turbo speed sensor and coolant pressure sensor being the next two we're going to monitor), plus I won't have to buy a GM throttle body and RX-8 gas pedal assembly and try to make them work, and it'll save me $311 on the ECU itself as that is how much the DBW option costs. Also, I have a sweet intake elbow that I've been dying to use the last few years and it comes into the throttle body at a different angle than the commonly used GReddy elbow and I'm planning on installing that and routing the intake piping along the side firewall and finally out of the way of the PS pulley, and I'll have to get the IC modified again. To do all that, I'll have to move my relay boxes that are in the way currently to where the OMP 2-cycle reservoir currently sits. And to do that I'll obviously have to move the OMP tank to probably where the air pump used to be (directly above the OMP means good gravity feed), but I'll have to buy a tank and modify it, or have one specially made. No biggie. Along with all that, this will give me the opportunity to play with the placement of the water injection nozzle. In any case, I'll have a turbo speed sensor, which is mainly useful for tuning, but Chris said it can be used in conjunction with boost control on the ECU. Coolant pressure will be monitored by the ECU with failsafes built in just in case I dump all my coolant. Actually pretty much all the sensors will have failsafes built in. Also, originally I thought launch control was a benefit of DBW, but it turns out he can wire that in without it, so I'll have launch control and I think 2-step also.

We've been talking about which tablet to install in the DIN slots, and we were originally planning to use a Samsung Galaxy Tab, but he said Syvecs already has an app for the iPad and it allows control of boost and traction control, so I guess I'll go with an iPad Mini. I'd much rather use a Galaxy Tab, but it will be easier and probably cheaper with the Mini since they won't have to make an app for me to use on the Galaxy. And I've looked it up on 7club and someone has installed both the iPad Mini AND the Galaxy Tab, so either way I'm set.

I'm also planning to use the ECU to control water injection as long as it has the same capabilities of the FJO system. If not, I might just keep the FJO setup. The only thing is if I let the ECU do it, I could clean up the engine bay a bit more.

I've also been talking to Adam Griffith (Griffith Performance I think is his company's name). He races his FD and he fabricates parts. He made the oil catch can that I'm using, and after talking to him a few years, I finally met him at DGRR last April. We had been talking about solutions for fitting in the car with a helmet, and he said he made some mounts to bolt straight to the floor. I sat in his car when I met him, with those rails and his Sparco Evo II seats. It looked as though I had enough room for a helmet so I bought the rails from him. I was also planning on buying the same seats, and I might still. The only problem is they are full bucket seats and they will be bolted directly to the floor. If I want to get in the rear bins, I'll have to go in from the hatch area, or lean in and go between the seats. Kind of a pain. And if I plan to remove the rear bins to take out my battery...oh man. REMOVE ALL THE THINGS! Now, in the pics of his group buy thread for those rails, he mounted some Bride Gias to a universal rail that he made. Pretty much the same piece, but it allows you to bolt bottom mount OR side mount seats. I'm not paying $2k per seat for some legit Bride seats, so I looked at some fake ones on eBay. They are a great price, but from what I understand the fake ones are slimmer and I think I'd already have a hard time fitting in the real ones with my hips. When you're 6'3", your bone structure isn't exactly small. OR I have child-bearing hips, I'm not sure. Either way, another problem is that they're not FIA certified, but I don't think the real ones are either because they're not full buckets, and I'll probably never race in anything that I'd need FIA seats anyway. Also, I made a spontaneous purchase of a Race Shop roll bar from a buddy on facebook lol. Those are not FIA certified either I don't believe, so why do my seats have to be? I've had the Race Shop rear harness bar for years and I planned on getting what I needed to make it a roll bar, but never did because the guy making them closed up shop. But now it seems he's back I guess to make special orders. I don't know, whatever. Either way, I'm still having a seating dilemma.

Varrstoen wheels, let's talk about 'em. Andy has been talking in my ear for months now (lol) about widening my wheels, or getting wider wheels and making the setup square all around instead of staggered. Well, I'm convinced, now I'm just trying to figure out the best way to go about it. I don't really want to cut up the TM02s, or any really expensive wheel either. I've always loved the TE37, but I'm not going to pay through the nose just to hack them up to widen them. The Varrstoen ES2 is damn near a perfect replica as far as looks go, and they're dirt cheap. I think you can get a full set for $100 or less. Also, I think for a little extra you can get them built to your specs, at least as far as center bore, offset...I'm not sure about width. I have to email about that. Now my only concern is the integrity of the wheel for motorsports. I'm not a big fan of using fake wheels on the track or ESPECIALLY on curvy mountain roads. Others can if they want, but I don't want to. However, from what I've read, their 18" wheels are made in a factory in Korea that also makes some BBS wheels. I'm not sure how much that means, but it's at least a little promising. I emailed Rishie Garg of Auto RND...he's the guy who got me the current wheels and my Enkei RPF1s. We'll see what he says. I don't care about having fake wheels if they're strong enough and I can get them in the sizes and offsets I want.

I also bought the APP 2 piece brake rotors the other day. I'm stoked to get that done. And actually I'm kinda waiting on changing the wheels until then anyway. During the brake job I'll be putting N-tech ducting plates on the back (and as a result, new wheel bearings, so I need to find the link to those on one of these threads when someone else on here did them recently, FDEEZ I think). Because the duct plates will be on there and since the ducts will be running through there, I need to make sure I can fit wider wheels up front without rubbing the ducts. AND I'll have to figure out where to attach the inlet of the ducts, to the bumper or to an undertray. I'll also finally install the speed bleeders in the new calipers after I rebuild them and get them powder coated.

I'm also still planning on getting Ohlins DFV coilovers. I think that will be the next purchase. I'm thinking about removing the suspension arms while I'm under there and sandblasting them again and then clear coating them this time, like I should have done last time. And I might go ahead and spray some new underbody coating on the wheel wells. Might as well.

I'm also thinking about changing the downpipe to 4", and then stepping down to a 3.5" midpipe, and then keep the 3" catback. Not sure yet.

I've been a very busy boy. This list isn't all inclusive either.

[Saul_Good]

I can help you with the seats. Don't get fake seats unless they are REALLY good fakes (but then I still wouldn't get them). The reason is because they are structurally weak. You can feel the flex when you sit in them, especially with a harness.

Why do you care? If you have an accident, they will break. I've seen it happen when someone was canyon running and at the track. The guy that did it doing canyon runs, hurt his back when it broke, not bad, but it could have been avoided.

Another example. When i was sitting shotgun as an instructor this summer, this guy had fake bride buckets (I think they were replicas of replicas) and that thing had some serious flex. I was kinda worried, luckily (for me) his car didn't start at the grid and i was able to avoid going out w/him. I know i could've not gone, but I was hoping he was a good listener and would be safe...i digress..... .. So yea don't cheap out on safety, get a legit seat. If it's not FIA, my opinion is, as long as the manufacturer has a history of it's products being used in motorsport type events.

[lOOkatme]

=

Varrstoen wheels, let's talk about 'em. Andy has been talking in my ear for months now (lol) about widening my wheels, or getting wider wheels and making the setup square all around instead of staggered. Well, I'm convinced, now I'm just trying to figure out the best way to go about it. I don't really want to cut up the TM02s, or any really expensive wheel either. I've always loved the TE37, but I'm not going to pay through the nose just to hack them up to widen them. The Varrstoen ES2 is damn near a perfect replica as far as looks go, and they're dirt cheap. I think you can get a full set for $100 or less. Also, I think for a little extra you can get them built to your specs, at least as far as center bore, offset...I'm not sure about width. I have to email about that. Now my only concern is the integrity of the wheel for motorsports. I'm not a big fan of using fake wheels on the track or ESPECIALLY on curvy mountain roads. Others can if they want, but I don't want to. However, from what I've read, their 18" wheels are made in a factory in Korea that also makes some BBS wheels. I'm not sure how much that means, but it's at least a little promising. I emailed Rishie Garg of Auto RND...he's the guy who got me the current wheels and my Enkei RPF1s. We'll see what he says. I don't care about having fake wheels if they're strong enough and I can get them in the sizes and offsets I want.

[color="Red"]I told you that going wider and slightly stretching the wheels will be faster but also more predictable. You want to go wider yourself:) It probably won't make a night and day difference, but it will tighten the handling up and make it more predictable, especially in the rear of your car with that snap oversteer stuff you have going on. Another attain predictable handling with slightly stretched tires is to run a 255/35/18 front and 265/35/18 rear. I bet you gain more rear traction as well going straight (traction forward and backwards is a function of how warm the tires are, less wide tires get into temp earlier than wider ones, and sometimes too wide isn't good for the street). I do notice on my set up that the wider tires do take a little more heat to work well, but I was also driving in colder temps with them. The predictability is nice.

I would just widen your current wheels if you wan to go that direction. The cheaper cast wheels aren't as rigid. I like enkei wheels as they are the best value/performance.[/color]


I also bought the APP 2 piece brake rotors the other day. I'm stoked to get that done. And actually I'm kinda waiting on changing the wheels until then anyway. During the brake job I'll be putting N-tech ducting plates on the back (and as a result, new wheel bearings, so I need to find the link to those on one of these threads when someone else on here did them recently, FDEEZ I think). Because the duct plates will be on there and since the ducts will be running through there, I need to make sure I can fit wider wheels up front without rubbing the ducts. AND I'll have to figure out where to attach the inlet of the ducts, to the bumper or to an undertray. I'll also finally install the speed bleeders in the new calipers after I rebuild them and get them powder coated.

I'm also still planning on getting Ohlins DFV coilovers. I think that will be the next purchase. I'm thinking about removing the suspension arms while I'm under there and sandblasting them again and then clear coating them this time, like I should have done last time. And I might go ahead and spray some new underbody coating on the wheel wells. Might as well.

I'm also thinking about changing the downpipe to 4", and then stepping down to a 3.5" midpipe, and then keep the 3" catback. Not sure yet.

[color="red"]I wouldn't do this. Keep it 3" all the way back. If you decide to step it up to a 3.5" DP, I would do 3.5" all the way back. If you do decide to step up the exhaust, I have dibs on your midpipe, I will buy it.[/color]

I've been a very busy boy. This list isn't all inclusive either.

I have been doing a lot of research on how to maximize everything on my car. Obviously I have gone through the brakes, suspension, wheels, and some engine stuff (OMP 2 cycle), water injection, etc.

I have been focusing on the cars response and how to maximize my heat exchangers (radiator + intercooler). I found a V-mount radiator used for a really good price (PWR modified radiator) and that is coming. I found an old trust FMIC and purchased that for a good price as well and its in really good condition. I spent a few days researching/looking for the right intercooler and the greddy FMIC (the old one) is the one I think is the best size + cast endtanks are good for flow into and out of the intercooler core. I will be making 2.75" or 2.5" piping or a mixture of both. I am going to try and fit the intercooler without cutting it. The endtanks are GREAT for smooth flow into and out of the intercooler which is HUGE for flow. I went with the smaller intercooler size to run a large air filter in the mouth of the bumper. This will grab MUCH colder air than I currently have. I usually run around 35-45C in the summer time. very hot days 45-50C. Geoff's set up ran 30C flat with the set up I recommended to him. so I am taking my own recommendation and doing it. A 15-20C air temp difference is a lot of WHP, could be 7% or so, or 25-30WHP difference if I am making high 300WHP. I will hopefully increase response with the smaller volume inside the piping and intercooler. difference below.

new set up is roughly 874 IN^3, old set up 1220 IN^3, reduction of 28%, could be more with even shorter piping and smaller diameter tubing. 30-40% reduction.

Now if you look at my intercooler, I am using only 7 rows of the intercooler of my FMIC out of a 15 row intercooler. it is also unducted since its in the front of the car. Air likes going around things. so going with the smaller intercooler will not only have 100% of its intercooler being cooled, I will have less volume to fill. All positives for response and more WHP from better cooling. Throw in the air intake in the mouth of the bumper instead of sucking hot air in the engine bay, I will need less cooling, but I will have more cooling power:) should be a HUGE difference (I hope) and also run cooler water temps.

I have also been researching intake design. basically what kills flow (intercooler end tanks, pipes, intakes, air filters, etc, etc, etc are sharp edges and step changes. I have found some velocity stacks for intakes to increase flow. I will effectively be lowering the pressure drop on the intake side (running large intake filters do the same) that will help with spooling the turbo and better response. it may increase power as well, but I was focusing on better spool response. so I am going to run another large intake filter, 4" tubing with 6" diameter ID of the filter with a velocity stack on the intake. I will be running reducers/diffusers on my intake to maximize flow on my set up. I think this all will have a good impact for the good with my set up, and is especially important with high elevation stuff.

After figuring all that out, I started researching ducting. I am unsure of what direction I am going to go but typically you want a smaller ducted portion at the mouth than the heat exchanger source so nothing escapes the duct. it also creates a low pressure high pressure area which "sucks" air into it. I will be working hard to maximize the potential with my set up. not sure if you want to start looking at doing the same thing or what? not that you need more response;)

[speedjunkie]

I can help you with the seats. Don't get fake seats unless they are REALLY good fakes (but then I still wouldn't get them). The reason is because they are structurally weak. You can feel the flex when you sit in them, especially with a harness.

Why do you care? If you have an accident, they will break. I've seen it happen when someone was canyon running and at the track. The guy that did it doing canyon runs, hurt his back when it broke, not bad, but it could have been avoided.

Another example. When i was sitting shotgun as an instructor this summer, this guy had fake bride buckets (I think they were replicas of replicas) and that thing had some serious flex. I was kinda worried, luckily (for me) his car didn't start at the grid and i was able to avoid going out w/him. I know i could've not gone, but I was hoping he was a good listener and would be safe...i digress..... .. So yea don't cheap out on safety, get a legit seat. If it's not FIA, my opinion is, as long as the manufacturer has a history of it's products being used in motorsport type events.

Well I've been looking on eBay at seats, so I'm just assuming none of them are REALLY good fakes lol. Although some of them look really legit. It's just hard to tell from pictures how much or little they'll flex. It's funny because so many of them say something like "THESE ARE THE HIGHEST QUALITY TRADEMARKED BRIDE SEAT MADE IN TAIWAN NOT FROM TEE'S CORP IN JAPAN." which basically means nothing haha. They're trademarked in the US too, that doesn't make them real haha. Unless that means they are actually trademarked and just not made in the Japan factory, but in the factory in Taiwan. But like I was saying, I don't believe the real Bride Gias are FIA certified either, so it doesn't really help me any there. I talked to Zico earlier and he said one of our other friends has a group buy going for fake Bride seats. Maybe I'll ask him about them and see if anyone has had them before and see how sturdy they are. Although the price is ridiculous so I'm assuming they're crap lol. Or if you can find me some good condition used real ones for a good/decent price, I'll do that instead. Either way I need to sit in some first and make sure I fit, and also that I can bolt them into the car if possible. I've always liked the Gias seats, and I've heard about how low you can sit with them, which I would also get with the Evo II or many other full buckets. Here are the seats I had my eye on as a possibility. But again, buying anything from eBay is a risk.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-of-BRIDE-GIAS-Version-2-GRADIATION-LOWMAX-JDM-Seat-TOYOTA-SCION-ACURA-/271208745330?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f254d0972&vxp=mtr

I have been doing a lot of research on how to maximize everything on my car. Obviously I have gone through the brakes, suspension, wheels, and some engine stuff (OMP 2 cycle), water injection, etc.

I have been focusing on the cars response and how to maximize my heat exchangers (radiator + intercooler). I found a V-mount radiator used for a really good price (PWR modified radiator) and that is coming. I found an old trust FMIC and purchased that for a good price as well and its in really good condition. I spent a few days researching/looking for the right intercooler and the greddy FMIC (the old one) is the one I think is the best size + cast endtanks are good for flow into and out of the intercooler core. I will be making 2.75" or 2.5" piping or a mixture of both. I am going to try and fit the intercooler without cutting it. The endtanks are GREAT for smooth flow into and out of the intercooler which is HUGE for flow. I went with the smaller intercooler size to run a large air filter in the mouth of the bumper. This will grab MUCH colder air than I currently have. I usually run around 35-45C in the summer time. very hot days 45-50C. Geoff's set up ran 30C flat with the set up I recommended to him. so I am taking my own recommendation and doing it. A 15-20C air temp difference is a lot of WHP, could be 7% or so, or 25-30WHP difference if I am making high 300WHP. I will hopefully increase response with the smaller volume inside the piping and intercooler. difference below.

new set up is roughly 874 IN^3, old set up 1220 IN^3, reduction of 28%, could be more with even shorter piping and smaller diameter tubing. 30-40% reduction.

Now if you look at my intercooler, I am using only 7 rows of the intercooler of my FMIC out of a 15 row intercooler. it is also unducted since its in the front of the car. Air likes going around things. so going with the smaller intercooler will not only have 100% of its intercooler being cooled, I will have less volume to fill. All positives for response and more WHP from better cooling. Throw in the air intake in the mouth of the bumper instead of sucking hot air in the engine bay, I will need less cooling, but I will have more cooling power:) should be a HUGE difference (I hope) and also run cooler water temps.

I have also been researching intake design. basically what kills flow (intercooler end tanks, pipes, intakes, air filters, etc, etc, etc are sharp edges and step changes. I have found some velocity stacks for intakes to increase flow. I will effectively be lowering the pressure drop on the intake side (running large intake filters do the same) that will help with spooling the turbo and better response. it may increase power as well, but I was focusing on better spool response. so I am going to run another large intake filter, 4" tubing with 6" diameter ID of the filter with a velocity stack on the intake. I will be running reducers/diffusers on my intake to maximize flow on my set up. I think this all will have a good impact for the good with my set up, and is especially important with high elevation stuff.

After figuring all that out, I started researching ducting. I am unsure of what direction I am going to go but typically you want a smaller ducted portion at the mouth than the heat exchanger source so nothing escapes the duct. it also creates a low pressure high pressure area which "sucks" air into it. I will be working hard to maximize the potential with my set up. not sure if you want to start looking at doing the same thing or what? not that you need more response;)

LOL I was just giving you shit. I like the idea of going wider all around and having a square setup. I figure adding another 1.5" or 2" should help a bit. Like I said, I don't want to cut up my current wheels. But we'll see what Rishie says about the Varrstoens. If they're still not to be trusted I won't bother, I'll just get something else. Maybe RPF1s again. Either way, I still have to wait til I get home and see how much room I have available with the ducting.

Were you the one telling me too big of an exhaust will lead to boost creep? I've been talking to a buddy on 7club with a 4" exhaust and he's never had a problem with creep.

Do you have a pic of the Trust FMIC? I'm thinking that's the same one I got. I think it's perfectly sized. If you end up having to cut that one up, let me know first because if it's the same one I picked up, I might be able to use it just the way it is on the one side where it sticks way out with the way I want to change my setup lol. I'll probably just modify mine though. Or I might see if I can piece one together. But I was trying to do that back before I picked up my Trust IC and I couldn't find any end tanks that I liked to fit the size cores I was finding. Either way, you're going to be using A LOT shorter piping and probably smaller diameter too, so I think you're going to see a lot of gain. Also, Zico needs a VMIC now, so I figured we could work on his too. We can knock out both yours and his at the same time if possible.

Did you find filters that come with the velocity stack inside? Or are you piecing this together?

I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean you want the inlet of the ducting to be smaller than what it's ducted to? Mine is more like a funnel. It basically takes the entire center opening of the front bumper and ducts it down to the components.

[lOOkatme]

Well I've been looking on eBay at seats, so I'm just assuming none of them are REALLY good fakes lol. Although some of them look really legit. It's just hard to tell from pictures how much or little they'll flex. It's funny because so many of them say something like "THESE ARE THE HIGHEST QUALITY TRADEMARKED BRIDE SEAT MADE IN TAIWAN NOT FROM TEE'S CORP IN JAPAN." which basically means nothing haha. They're trademarked in the US too, that doesn't make them real haha. Unless that means they are actually trademarked and just not made in the Japan factory, but in the factory in Taiwan. But like I was saying, I don't believe the real Bride Gias are FIA certified either, so it doesn't really help me any there. I talked to Zico earlier and he said one of our other friends has a group buy going for fake Bride seats. Maybe I'll ask him about them and see if anyone has had them before and see how sturdy they are. Although the price is ridiculous so I'm assuming they're crap lol. Or if you can find me some good condition used real ones for a good/decent price, I'll do that instead. Either way I need to sit in some first and make sure I fit, and also that I can bolt them into the car if possible. I've always liked the Gias seats, and I've heard about how low you can sit with them, which I would also get with the Evo II or many other full buckets. Here are the seats I had my eye on as a possibility. But again, buying anything from eBay is a risk.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-of-BRIDE-GIAS-Version-2-GRADIATION-LOWMAX-JDM-Seat-TOYOTA-SCION-ACURA-/271208745330?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f254d0972&vxp=mtr



LOL I was just giving you shit. I like the idea of going wider all around and having a square setup. I figure adding another 1.5" or 2" should help a bit. Like I said, I don't want to cut up my current wheels. But we'll see what Rishie says about the Varrstoens. If they're still not to be trusted I won't bother, I'll just get something else. Maybe RPF1s again. Either way, I still have to wait til I get home and see how much room I have available with the ducting.

Were you the one telling me too big of an exhaust will lead to boost creep? I've been talking to a buddy on 7club with a 4" exhaust and he's never had a problem with creep.

Do you have a pic of the Trust FMIC? I'm thinking that's the same one I got. I think it's perfectly sized. If you end up having to cut that one up, let me know first because if it's the same one I picked up, I might be able to use it just the way it is on the one side where it sticks way out with the way I want to change my setup lol. I'll probably just modify mine though. Or I might see if I can piece one together. But I was trying to do that back before I picked up my Trust IC and I couldn't find any end tanks that I liked to fit the size cores I was finding. Either way, you're going to be using A LOT shorter piping and probably smaller diameter too, so I think you're going to see a lot of gain. Also, Zico needs a VMIC now, so I figured we could work on his too. We can knock out both yours and his at the same time if possible.

Did you find filters that come with the velocity stack inside? Or are you piecing this together?

I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean you want the inlet of the ducting to be smaller than what it's ducted to? Mine is more like a funnel. It basically takes the entire center opening of the front bumper and ducts it down to the components.

I am going to try and run the intercooler I purchased without modifying it at all. I am going to stick the tight bent corner in the drivers corner in front of the battery I have over there, and I am hoping I can run an intake + filter under the other side. I am going to try and use it like a SMIC more than a V-mount. we'll see when I get everything here. if I can't get it to work without cutting it I will let you know. I think its the same one you had purchased. it just so happens that these intercoolers are the perfect size and shape for what we want to do with them.

They are two separate pieces. I will attach pictures of what I am talking about. its a stack that goes to the intake wiht a coupler and a filter goes over the stack. So the ID of the filter will need to be 6", and the OD of the stack is 6" and 4".

The inlet of the ducting needs to be smaller square area than the square area of the heat exchanger. typically it will be around 20-60% square area of the heat exchanger.

[speedjunkie]

Yep, that is the exact same one I got haha. Where did you get it and do they have more? I know it's used and I believe it's discontinued. I'm just wondering because I think I'd like to change a couple things again to try to make it more efficient and like I said, I could possibly use the longer side just the way it is. Anyway, so you're going to run the tight bend on the driver's side? How will that work? Are you going to put the inlets toward the front of the car? Or will they be pointing down? Or is it going to be at an extreme angle, almost like a stock mount?

Oh OK. I think I've seen those filters. Are there any that are large enough to not restrict flow? I'd be interested in that.

Oh alright, I see what you mean. Actually with our bumper openings, and considering your total ducted area is larger with a VMIC, I think we're set up pretty well for that already. EDIT: after seeing the front opening on my car in the signature, maybe not lol.

[lOOkatme]

Yep, that is the exact same one I got haha. Where did you get it and do they have more? I know it's used and I believe it's discontinued. I'm just wondering because I think I'd like to change a couple things again to try to make it more efficient and like I said, I could possibly use the longer side just the way it is. Anyway, so you're going to run the tight bend on the driver's side? How will that work? Are you going to put the inlets toward the front of the car? Or will they be pointing down? Or is it going to be at an extreme angle, almost like a stock mount?

Oh OK. I think I've seen those filters. Are there any that are large enough to not restrict flow? I'd be interested in that.

Oh alright, I see what you mean. Actually with our bumper openings, and considering your total ducted area is larger with a VMIC, I think we're set up pretty well for that already. EDIT: after seeing the front opening on my car in the signature, maybe not lol.

I think the V-mount naturally does what we want it to. it opens up from the bumper opening and the square feet of both heat exchangers is much larger than the opening. might not need to do anything to improve.

The velocity stack is a separate pieces and can be purchased for about 25-30 on ebay. then just stick a filter on that fits in the space. I don't expect earth shattering performance gains from this, but for a new filter and stack isn't earth shattering cost either for a little gain.

I am going to try and fit it with the inlet and outlet towards the bumper. It will basically be mounted upright like it was originally designed to be, but I will tilt the bottom on an angle towards the driver. I am sacrificing a little piping for more direct air flow and I am hoping better fitment. things change when everything gets mocked up and fitted. I might do two seperate enclosed ducts if I have to. I really want to stick my air filter in the cold air and simplify ducting. I have been thinking about creating ducting after the intercooler and route it back down to a low pressure area under the car.

[speedjunkie]

I know from experience that I don't need to do anything to improve coolant temp, especially during winter lol. Might actually need to block it off some in the winter. But in the summer, and with a condenser now, I might need more cooling. Not sure yet. Either way, VMIC is where it's at.

So do you need to get a filter from the same company or any filter should work?

Oh OK. A few years ago when I was researching it more, people said to put the in and out on opposite sides for most efficient cooling. Basically run the turbo side to the front, then have the outlet on the side closer to the engine, or vise versa. Yeah things always change when you get them in the car haha. I'd like to make a fiberglass duct setup, one or two pieces. Have the piece for the VMIC itself all one piece, then another piece to bolt on and run all the way to the turbo and wrap around the filter, or maybe even have that piece built in also. Why do you want to run it back to the bottom of the car, just so it pulls the air out? I wouldn't mind having mine ducted right out through the hood, but I like the way the hood looks right now and I'd hate to cut it lol.

Oh yeah, I'm also back to thinking about doing 3pc wheels haha. One of my coworkers over here has a buddy with a CNC machine, and if I can get someone to design my wheels in CAD, I can take the design to his buddy and have him cut them, then just buy the lips and barrels separately. WOOHOO!!! I also found a company that does custom centers but he said it would be $2700 just for the faces lol. He has lips and barrels too but I'm not sure what those would cost yet, and the ones from the other place would be another $1180, and that's not including hardware. At least if I did that, if I dinged the wheel on something it would be cheap to repair.

[lOOkatme]

I know from experience that I don't need to do anything to improve coolant temp, especially during winter lol. Might actually need to block it off some in the winter. But in the summer, and with a condenser now, I might need more cooling. Not sure yet. Either way, VMIC is where it's at.

So do you need to get a filter from the same company or any filter should work?

Oh OK. A few years ago when I was researching it more, people said to put the in and out on opposite sides for most efficient cooling. Basically run the turbo side to the front, then have the outlet on the side closer to the engine, or vise versa. Yeah things always change when you get them in the car haha. I'd like to make a fiberglass duct setup, one or two pieces. Have the piece for the VMIC itself all one piece, then another piece to bolt on and run all the way to the turbo and wrap around the filter, or maybe even have that piece built in also. Why do you want to run it back to the bottom of the car, just so it pulls the air out? I wouldn't mind having mine ducted right out through the hood, but I like the way the hood looks right now and I'd hate to cut it lol.

Oh yeah, I'm also back to thinking about doing 3pc wheels haha. One of my coworkers over here has a buddy with a CNC machine, and if I can get someone to design my wheels in CAD, I can take the design to his buddy and have him cut them, then just buy the lips and barrels separately. WOOHOO!!! I also found a company that does custom centers but he said it would be $2700 just for the faces lol. He has lips and barrels too but I'm not sure what those would cost yet, and the ones from the other place would be another $1180, and that's not including hardware. At least if I did that, if I dinged the wheel on something it would be cheap to repair.

Any filter that tightly fits over the stack will work. I don't know your intake diameter, but I am sure you can find a stack for it.


Also, not sure about the brand of these wheels, but they are definitely sick. go to about halfway in the clip.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rm5OLvgVen0


found them.
http://www.iforged.com/v8/series/concave-series/47

[speedjunkie]

Oh ok cool! I'll try that too then.

Their Flux in their Formula Series looks like the ISS FS-6 in my basement lol.

The concave series are 19" and up I think.

[lOOkatme]

Looks like Cyberevo got the message as well;)

Stretched tires work.

[speedjunkie]

LOL sweet! Does it still use the TM02s also?

I was thinking about the air filter thing too. I have a pretty large filter as it is, and I have it mounted at the end of the pipe already.

[speedjunkie]

I noticed today that I missed the Black Friday sale at SBG and missed getting the new coilovers for ~$2100 instead of the normal $2413. AAAAAAGGGGGGHHHHHHHH!!!! I sent one of the guys a message since I've been talking to him for a few years now and we're buddies on facebook haha, maybe he'll cut me a break haha. But I doubt it, I probably wouldn't either haha.

I've been looking at flex fuel sensors and thinking about where in the fuel system to put it. I don't think I'll be able to put it right before the fuel rails because that line is 8AN and the inlet and outlet on the sensor are 3/8" I believe, which is closer to 6AN, and I don't want the sensor to be a bottleneck. It kills the whole point of doing dual 6AN into 8AN. I also wondered if it would be bad to put it in only one of the 6AN lines because it won't be able to read the other line, but they SHOULD be the same content. I started wondering if maybe it would be better mounted in the back so it can tell the content in advance, but I imagine it works so fast you can have it right before injection.

[speedjunkie]

Chris got back to me and told me typically the flex fuel sensors will go in the return fuel line, so that is solved.

I've been thinking about swapping my normal size Yellow Top battery for a smaller Yellow Top, that way I won't have to pull the bins to pull the battery. I need to pull them anyway to put my rear ABS wheel speed sensors back in. I saw on someone's thread on 7club from several years ago where they made a battery tray from stuff from ACE Hardware, and I already have all that stuff at home, so I'll do that when I get back, and I have to get my hands on the smaller Yellow Top. They should have enough cranking amps even being smaller. I think it's about 500CCA for the Yellow Top 51 series battery as opposed to 170CCA for the Odyssey PC680. So I'll have at least one brand new Yellow Top for sale, and probably my older one too unless I put that in the Pathfinder.

All my buddy had to say in response to me being late for the coilover sale was "fail". Gee, thanks haha. So I guess I'll be paying full price. Although I did find where they had a really good group buy back in early 2014 for those, and maybe they'll do it again, so I asked one of the guys at SGB. I also found some used ones for sale over the past several months but no one has gotten back to me yet. And PureRX7, who imports coilovers from Japan, sold some DFVs with external reservoirs (more tunability). I asked him if he had any more and he said they're so hard to come by anyway because they're over $6000 new so hardly anyone buys them. The only way I'll get some of those is used haha. Oh well, the regular DFVs are awesome as it is, and honestly, I'm not that into suspension tuning just yet that I'd know what I was doing anyway. And everything I've heard about the regular DFV Road & Track coilovers have been glowing reviews.

I was looking at a build thread by one of the guys on 7club, also named Eric, and he did Alcantara suede on his dash and tranny tunnel cover, and then painted the plastics silver. It looks soooooo good. He did the gauge hood in the original black though, with the gauge face plastic in silver, and the two tone looks awesome. So I'm thinking again about doing the suede/Spirit R grey interior. Although I still have some concerns doing suede on the dash and/or door panels. One being fade from the sun over time, and another being getting the door panels wet if it's raining or whatever. Also, being that I'm doing racing seats and a roll bar, I guess it doesn't really make sense to do a suede interior since it'll just get messed up if I'm racing. It just looks sooooo good though haha.

I'm still shopping for brake pads too. I haven't actually looked into it all that much yet, but I know Luis (Saul Good) likes his Carbotechs, and Andy is planning on using EBC Blues. Does anyone else have a recommendation? I know it's impossible to find a pad that is great on the street AND the track, but I'm hoping to find one that is a good compromise. Honestly, as little as it's seen the track (which is to say zilch so far lol) and as little as it probably will see the track, street pads are probably the better option. However, I still like to do the curvy mountain roads, so I need some pads with at least a little performance benefit. I can handle some dust on the wheels, but I won't be able to handle a lot of squealing or other noise.

I'm waiting to hear back from CJ Motorsports on their next batch of fuel rails. I talked to them before I deployed about cutting me a custom one with a fuel pulsation damper, the port for the fuel pressure sensor, and the outlet to feed the primary rail, but then I asked about adding the two extra injector ports for flex fuel also haha. Charles said he'd email me after drawing up the fuel rail, but I haven't seen anything yet.