Build thread

[speedjunkie]

I feel like I'm making hardly any progress at all.

For me, it's more about not having to put the ABS pump and lines back in after paint lol. I've always been kinda worried about trying to brake in my first rainfall without it, but I've been told it's not bad. And I was reminded it's 20 year old technology, and as Jason mentioned, I have other than a stock setup so it's not gonna act the same anyway, although I don't think I ever noticed it do anything weird.

Ok here are the pics. And I finished the bracket tonight too. Some of the pics are with the bracket version 1, some with version 2. I tapped the holes for the valve on the new bracket, but I put locking nuts on the back for extra insurance.

[D Walker]

with modified suspension, tire grip levels and different tire sizes the stock abs can do some wierd things.

NO NO NO, especially not with an old system like the one in an FD. A broken or ill maintained system might do some wierd things, along with poor pad choices etc, but if maintained and cared for the ABS does its job and doesnt care about your tire size etc.

If you wanted to improve the braking system you could use the Hitachi system from the early non DSC RX8 or the Honda S2000 system, both are standalone and the S2000 system can be programmed with the right stuff.

[speedjunkie]

I've heard about using the S2000 system, but if non-ABS works for me I'm gonna stick with that.

Also, I'm still trying to decide which apex seals to use, and 1 piece vs 2 piece. Jesse swears by the stock 1 piece seals. I worry about the stock seals eating the housings if they fail, so I was looking at Goopy 1 piece or ALS 2 piece. But I still wanna try the stock 1 piece seals too.

[D Walker]

Speaking only for myself I only use the 2 piece seals and have not had any issues.

[lOOkatme]

I had messeged Barry Bordes on rx7club, did some research on what RE-Amemiya used for seals in their race engines and also their street engines.

Barry (who has been doing root cause invetigations on why some of the seals fail) seems to think the root cause is the heat build up around the plug holes. He proposes to machine a football shape into the plug hole to reduce the heat build up at that location which leads to the seal "jumping" or skipping or chattering in that location.

He seems to think the stock seal (2 piece) are the best option for housing to seal interface. They have the magic ingredient.

Re-amemiya uses exclusively stocks seals and only stock seals, they use them on their 2 and 3 rotor motors, even their GT race cars.

I included Barry's housing picture at 100K miles of his housings.

[speedjunkie]

I've always used two piece seals.

I read that thread too Andy. I thought he was saying one piece seals were the way to go because of that problem. I don't see football shaped holes for the plugs. But those are the housings he did the coolant mod on, correct? Those housings look fantastic, especially considering the mileage.

[lOOkatme]

I've always used two piece seals.

I read that thread too Andy. I thought he was saying one piece seals were the way to go because of that problem. I don't see football shaped holes for the plugs. But those are the housings he did the coolant mod on, correct? Those housings look fantastic, especially considering the mileage.

I think if you just leave the ports stock, the spark plug holes stock, cooling ports stock, and choose either seal...you will be fine.

We looked at your housings and you have no carbon build up on them from the problems barry is describing (heat build up around the plug holes, which leads to cracking at the plug holes, and the seal getting damaged in that location from the heat They catch there and rock back and forth causing a fatigure failure). I think your water/meth injection system is saving you.

He convinced me to get a basic water injection kit after his research and talking to him about the problems of the heat around the plug holes. I will be running a 50/50 water/meth mix. Where were you thinking of getting the meth from?

I am going to get a slightly used devils own kit and mount it in the rear of the car under the back probably off the subframe or something (the pump). Put the mixture in the trunk and run a line to the pump, line to the front to inject. I would like to run a robust line to the front of the car that won't get damaged.

I think you have all the right components right now to make your car run long and powerful. Those housings came from his car when he was running between 400-500WHP. pretty awesome IMO.

[erod550]

Lanier's Speed Shop in downtown C/S sells pure methanol. Pretty sure it was about $30 for 5 gallons but that was about 3 years ago. You have to bring your own container and they'll fill it from a barrel. It's way cheaper than buying pre-mixed stuff like at Snow Performance where they charge $36 for 4 gallons of pre-mixed 50/50 when you can mix your own for less than half the price and also run whatever mix you want.

[speedjunkie]

I think if you just leave the ports stock, the spark plug holes stock, cooling ports stock, and choose either seal...you will be fine.

We looked at your housings and you have no carbon build up on them from the problems barry is describing (heat build up around the plug holes, which leads to cracking at the plug holes, and the seal getting damaged in that location from the heat They catch there and rock back and forth causing a fatigure failure). I think your water/meth injection system is saving you.

He convinced me to get a basic water injection kit after his research and talking to him about the problems of the heat around the plug holes. I will be running a 50/50 water/meth mix. Where were you thinking of getting the meth from?

I am going to get a slightly used devils own kit and mount it in the rear of the car under the back probably off the subframe or something (the pump). Put the mixture in the trunk and run a line to the pump, line to the front to inject. I would like to run a robust line to the front of the car that won't get damaged.

I think you have all the right components right now to make your car run long and powerful. Those housings came from his car when he was running between 400-500WHP. pretty awesome IMO.

Yeah the housings are good other than the chatter marks lol, which might actually be from using solid corner seals also. At least that's from some stuff I've read. Which makes me think I should have gotten OEM corner seals instead of solid ones. I'm just not sure though because I had a broken corner seal in the engine from IRP and it didn't even have 1000 miles on it. Although the housings looked like crap too so for all I know IRP built it with a broken corner seal too lol.

That's cool. That makes me happy that he suggests water injection as well lol. Not sure what to tell you about the line. You could make a hardline, or if you don't want to use the charcoal canister line you can use that to run it to the front. Eric is right, Lanier's Speed Shop.

Man, those housings look that good on a 100k 400-500whp engine? WOW

Lanier's Speed Shop in downtown C/S sells pure methanol. Pretty sure it was about $30 for 5 gallons but that was about 3 years ago. You have to bring your own container and they'll fill it from a barrel. It's way cheaper than buying pre-mixed stuff like at Snow Performance where they charge $36 for 4 gallons of pre-mixed 50/50 when you can mix your own for less than half the price and also run whatever mix you want.

Yeah I called Lanier's the other day. He said pretty much what you said lol. Take my own container, price seems about right. Then I get some distilled water and mix it myself. I thought about boost juice but my main concern is not having deposits in the throttle body and I'm not sure if boost juice would be any better. And I don't really want coloring in the mix either. Although I can find leaks easier if there is coloring.

[Dwduc]

For Methanol check Chief petroleum out. IIRC some of my Sprint car buddies buy it there in 5 Gal cans.

[speedjunkie]

Just called Chief. The girl on the phone said they sell it by the barrel, 55 gallons.

[speedjunkie]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fbx5VMzsDs&feature=youtu.be

Aaron Parker's dyno run during tuning. This makes me think it's time to upgrade to an 8374 lol. I think his spools as fast as mine does. Jason, you're going to be very happy with that turbo I think.

[lOOkatme]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fbx5VMzsDs&feature=youtu.be

Aaron Parker's dyno run during tuning. This makes me think it's time to upgrade to an 8374 lol. I think his spools as fast as mine does. Jason, you're going to be very happy with that turbo I think.

Lower moment of inertia turbine wheels and good turbine to compressor wheel ratio (1.3). Both turbo's spool like nothing.

His boost cut saved his engine and I wouldn't have done what these guys are doing. You slowly bring it up with your foot and watch the PSI. you don't just go 100% floored with it and see what happens. You slowly throttle it up and keep giving it more till you get to the floor.

[FDEEZ]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fbx5VMzsDs&feature=youtu.be

Aaron Parker's dyno run during tuning. This makes me think it's time to upgrade to an 8374 lol. I think his spools as fast as mine does. Jason, you're going to be very happy with that turbo I think.

Not sure if that's the downpipe or wastegate, but I'm sure having those things exit out the top of the hood like in vid helps reduce spool time.

[speedjunkie]

Lower moment of inertia turbine wheels and good turbine to compressor wheel ratio (1.3). Both turbo's spool like nothing.

His boost cut saved his engine and I wouldn't have done what these guys are doing. You slowly bring it up with your foot and watch the PSI. you don't just go 100% floored with it and see what happens. You slowly throttle it up and keep giving it more till you get to the floor.

I think he said Abel Ibarra is tuning his car, which might explain it...that dude is only used to going fast I think lol.

Not sure if that's the downpipe or wastegate, but I'm sure having those things exit out the top of the hood like in vid helps reduce spool time.

Those are his wastegate dumps. Mine dump directly out the bottom of the car, probably about half as long as his. Also, his manifold runners are much longer than mine, but still not even as long as he wanted. He also has 4" downpipe I think, which is something I've been thinking about doing. I'd like to do 4" all the way back, but I'd have to make my own silenced midpipe and a full catback exhaust too. I was basically planning all this in order to quiet the car down some, but right now I just want to drive it again lol.

I've thought about plumbing my dumps back into the downpipe, but I've heard that hurts flow and like I said, I just want to drive it. Maybe another time.

I called Precision Standards yesterday and he said he hasn't started on the transmission yet, but it'll be done on Monday. I'm not really in a hurry for it but that's still a good thing.

I did some work on the car today and tonight. Zico stopped by today and tonight he welded the rest of the water injection water pump bracket, sealing up all around the edges. I guess it's pretty late now, if I'm worried about moisture getting behind the plate and rusting, but at least it's done now, and ready for Cody to paint.

Speaking of which, Cody is coming tomorrow to prep the engine bay and he's painting either Monday or next Saturday. So I got the rest of the engine bay pretty much stripped and removed the front fenders and hood, and in the process I dropped one of the nuts for the hood down into the chassis and I'm not sure I can get it back..ARGH!!!!! Anyway, I can't wait until it's finished with paint so I can put everything back in and get it ready for the engine.

I started pulling the dash so I could change the bulkhead connector from the battery to the starter, and then realized I still wouldn't be able to do it that way, and realized it was easier to pull the carpet from the corner and fold it back. So I did it that way and Andy helped me install the bulkhead connector that I made. I checked for continuity to make sure it wasn't making contact with the chassis and it doesn't seem to be.

I also got the rebuild parts from Pineapple Racing today. The HD seal kit. I still have to decide which apex seals I want and buy those lol.

Monday I'm going to Beauchamp Racing to sandblast some parts and see if Tom can weld some fittings onto the water pump housing for the turbo coolant lines. I'm also going to take the charcoal canister line to Whisler Bearing and see if they have some hardline fittings for it and my fuel lines so I can convert them.

I need to start working on the surge tank for the fuel tank. But I've been thinking about just putting the pumps in there for now and getting it running, then try to do the surge tank later. And there are sooooo many other things I need to do too, most of which I can't remember at any given time lol.