Hey everyone!
Just purchased a used 2009 Black Mica Speed3 at Larry H Miller Volskwagen... The car has 49k miles on it, and a couple standard mods... Cobb SFI, and TMIC (Not sure on manufacturer)... everything else looks stock, and the car drives awesome.
I've already got a JRB Short Shifter Plate plus Bushings on order, and I'm trying to decide what moves to make next. I'm strongly considering replacing the 2nd Cat, as well as purchasing a COBB RMM... but I'm wondering if my first step should be to check out whether or not the stock Fuel Pump has been replaced... Any thoughts on the easiest way to attack this??
I'll post some pictures soon if anyone is interested in seeing my new pride and joy!
New Speed3 Owner
-
BravoDelta
- Member
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:14
- Location: Denver
- I`m Batman
- Senior Member
- Posts: 935
- Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 9:14
- Location: Castle Rock
yay more turbo mazdas!!!!
are you wanting to know if the pump has been upgraded or replace with oem parts? I've heard that you have to remove the tank to get to the mazda 3 fuel pump.. on the Mazdaspeed protege (the mazda 3's slightly older dumber brother) you can remove the lower portion of the back seat and there is an access hole through the floor. then you disconnect quick connect fuel lines and an electrical connector, unbolt the fuel sending unit and lift it out of the car.
are you wanting to know if the pump has been upgraded or replace with oem parts? I've heard that you have to remove the tank to get to the mazda 3 fuel pump.. on the Mazdaspeed protege (the mazda 3's slightly older dumber brother) you can remove the lower portion of the back seat and there is an access hole through the floor. then you disconnect quick connect fuel lines and an electrical connector, unbolt the fuel sending unit and lift it out of the car.
2003 MazdaSpeed Potege: Wiseco Pistons, Molnar Rods, Walboro 255, Megasquirt Ecu, Front Mount, Daily Driver.
1991 Mazda Rx-7 Convertible: Rebuilt 4-Port Turbo Block, TII drivetrain swap, Walboro 255, Megasquirt, Aeromotive FPR, JIC coilovers, 4" Stainless exhaust, Ticket Getter.
1976 Honda CB750F: Cafe Racer, Powder coated, Rebuilt, re-bearing/bushing, tapered stem bearing upgrade, Garage Project
2014 Silverado: Mazda Support Vehicle
2003 Subaru Forester: What was I thinking?...
1991 Mazda Rx-7 Convertible: Rebuilt 4-Port Turbo Block, TII drivetrain swap, Walboro 255, Megasquirt, Aeromotive FPR, JIC coilovers, 4" Stainless exhaust, Ticket Getter.
1976 Honda CB750F: Cafe Racer, Powder coated, Rebuilt, re-bearing/bushing, tapered stem bearing upgrade, Garage Project
2014 Silverado: Mazda Support Vehicle
2003 Subaru Forester: What was I thinking?...
I will get some pics up soon.
And yeah, I want to know whether or not the upgrade was done. From the research I've done, it looks like getting to the pump is not crazy dificult... But I'd rather have a mechanic do it with my limited tools and mechanical knowledge. I feel like the safest route is to go ahead and just buy the internals, and then have them swapped out regardless... It would just suck if it ended up being a complete waste of time/money.
And yeah, I want to know whether or not the upgrade was done. From the research I've done, it looks like getting to the pump is not crazy dificult... But I'd rather have a mechanic do it with my limited tools and mechanical knowledge. I feel like the safest route is to go ahead and just buy the internals, and then have them swapped out regardless... It would just suck if it ended up being a complete waste of time/money.
- AuroraAxela
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 9:14
- Location: Aurora, CO
You'll be able to tell when you get an AccessPort. No sense spending the money if you don't have to. I got mine used, and I got lucky because she already had internals done.
I also have a JBR RMM if you're not dead-set on a Cobb...
http://www.coloradomazdaclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8914
I also have a JBR RMM if you're not dead-set on a Cobb...
http://www.coloradomazdaclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8914
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
[color="Blue"][SIZE="3"]2009 Mazdaspeed 3 GT[/SIZE][/color]
[SIZE="1"][color="Blue"][color="Blue"]POWERTRAIN: GTX3067R . Cobb AP . Cobb 3-port . Autotech internals . HTP 3" intake . cp-e FMIC . Forge v1 BPV . TWM STS . CNT Turboback
NGK 1-step colder . Bosch 3-bar . cp-e xFlex™ RMM/TMM/PMM . CorkSport recirc tube . Kosmic EGR delete
SUSPENSION: K-Sport coilovers . Whiteline RSB . custom MS6 wheels
EXTERIOR: cp-e TowPlate . DDM Tuning 5000K HID low/fog
INTERIOR: Defi boost gauge/cp-e defroster mount . NRG shift knob . CorkSport LEDs[/color][/color][/SIZE]
NGK 1-step colder . Bosch 3-bar . cp-e xFlex™ RMM/TMM/PMM . CorkSport recirc tube . Kosmic EGR delete
SUSPENSION: K-Sport coilovers . Whiteline RSB . custom MS6 wheels
EXTERIOR: cp-e TowPlate . DDM Tuning 5000K HID low/fog
INTERIOR: Defi boost gauge/cp-e defroster mount . NRG shift knob . CorkSport LEDs[/color][/color][/SIZE]
- RX-7 Chris
- Posts: 7800
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
- Contact:
Welcome
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
Thanks guys!
@AuroraAxela... I have now read in a couple other threads that if the Fuel Pressure can get up to between 1,700 and 1,800 psi at WOT that I should be good... does that sound right? Also, did JBR discontinue that mount? I haven't been able to find any information about the 90 duro, but I am definitely interested.
@AuroraAxela... I have now read in a couple other threads that if the Fuel Pressure can get up to between 1,700 and 1,800 psi at WOT that I should be good... does that sound right? Also, did JBR discontinue that mount? I haven't been able to find any information about the 90 duro, but I am definitely interested.
The 90 Durro was kinda a once and a while item that they sent out. normally they used an 88 durro bushing.
There rear motor mount has changed designs, and that is the older design (not to be taken as flawed design). They changed the design to streem line there manufacturing process.
For fuel pressure, yes, you want it to be 1600 psi+ for the entire time. best way to do it, is to take a data log of a 4th gear pull, making sure you are logging HPFP actual. Then review the log looking for any dips in pressure. If you get above 2000 psi, you more than likely have FP internals already.
There rear motor mount has changed designs, and that is the older design (not to be taken as flawed design). They changed the design to streem line there manufacturing process.
For fuel pressure, yes, you want it to be 1600 psi+ for the entire time. best way to do it, is to take a data log of a 4th gear pull, making sure you are logging HPFP actual. Then review the log looking for any dips in pressure. If you get above 2000 psi, you more than likely have FP internals already.
I'm planning on picking up an AP within the next couple days, so I will run the logs and hopefully have an answer by this weekend. Do you think the stock pump could handle those mods (TMIC, COBB SRI, COBB TIP) over 50,000 miles? Like I said before, the car drives great (minus the transmission... which will hopefully be better after fluid change and short throw/bushings install)
The genjuan fuel trim logic is less agressive compaired to the genpu, so with those mods you should be fine. The second gen's have seen fueling issues with just an intake on some occasions.
The FOMOCO trans fluid does help, as well as the solid base bushings for the shift cage. there has been some debate about the short shift plates doing more harm than good, but nothing to prove it one way or another.
I have the TWM STS and I like it alot.
The FOMOCO trans fluid does help, as well as the solid base bushings for the shift cage. there has been some debate about the short shift plates doing more harm than good, but nothing to prove it one way or another.
I have the TWM STS and I like it alot.
- AuroraAxela
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Wed Dec 14, 2011 9:14
- Location: Aurora, CO
Mortose wrote:
The FOMOCO trans fluid does help, as well as the solid base bushings for the shift cage. there has been some debate about the short shift plates doing more harm than good, but nothing to prove it one way or another.
I have the TWM STS and I like it alot.
I have the same, and it makes me happy.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
[color="Blue"][SIZE="3"]2009 Mazdaspeed 3 GT[/SIZE][/color]
[SIZE="1"][color="Blue"][color="Blue"]POWERTRAIN: GTX3067R . Cobb AP . Cobb 3-port . Autotech internals . HTP 3" intake . cp-e FMIC . Forge v1 BPV . TWM STS . CNT Turboback
NGK 1-step colder . Bosch 3-bar . cp-e xFlex™ RMM/TMM/PMM . CorkSport recirc tube . Kosmic EGR delete
SUSPENSION: K-Sport coilovers . Whiteline RSB . custom MS6 wheels
EXTERIOR: cp-e TowPlate . DDM Tuning 5000K HID low/fog
INTERIOR: Defi boost gauge/cp-e defroster mount . NRG shift knob . CorkSport LEDs[/color][/color][/SIZE]
NGK 1-step colder . Bosch 3-bar . cp-e xFlex™ RMM/TMM/PMM . CorkSport recirc tube . Kosmic EGR delete
SUSPENSION: K-Sport coilovers . Whiteline RSB . custom MS6 wheels
EXTERIOR: cp-e TowPlate . DDM Tuning 5000K HID low/fog
INTERIOR: Defi boost gauge/cp-e defroster mount . NRG shift knob . CorkSport LEDs[/color][/color][/SIZE]
Another vote for the TWM STS. I had it in mine and liked it.
2015 Ironman Silver Veloster Turbo - Bone stock and staying that way
1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors
Former Rides:
2011 Kona Blue Mustang GT 5.0
2009 True Red Mazdaspeed3 GT
2005 Flame Red SRT-4
1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors
Former Rides:
2011 Kona Blue Mustang GT 5.0
2009 True Red Mazdaspeed3 GT
2005 Flame Red SRT-4
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 46 guests

