Looking for rental bay/lift
Looking for rental bay/lift
I need to replace my rear shocks, front and rear stabilizer bushings and end links, as well as my rear motor mount. I may be dreaming:741ccad5:, but I think I could get all this done in three-or-so hours with a lift. It would be a miserable all day-plus affair on ramps. Any one care to set me straight or recommend a location in Denver where I could rent a bay with a lift for 1/2 day?
you're brave.
i'll be paying someone to replace my entire suspension (struts/bushings/mounts)
waiting on KoniFSD's+mounts/bushings to come in, hope installation doesnt cost too much...
i'll be paying someone to replace my entire suspension (struts/bushings/mounts)
waiting on KoniFSD's+mounts/bushings to come in, hope installation doesnt cost too much...
<a href="http://www.alaze.us">
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I bought the bushings and rear motormount from Sure Motorsports. The bushings are a relatively non-compliant urethane, stiffer than most rubbers but softer than many hard urethanes or plastics. The rear motor mount has a relatively soft urethane but so much of it that it should stiffen the mount considerably. I bought the rear shocks (from Rock Auto) because the right rear is completely blown. (Oil everywhere.) I don't know the condition of the front struts. I am assuming they are fine. (no bouncing) Struts are also much more expensive and labor intensive. The rest should be relatively easy.
geo2maz wrote:you're brave.
i'll be paying someone to replace my entire suspension (struts/bushings/mounts)
waiting on KoniFSD's+mounts/bushings to come in, hope installation doesnt cost too much...
Which mounts did you order? If you are talking motor mounts did you get the rear or the full set? Rear motor mount is pretty straight forward. I plan to get the jbarone chromolly which is claimed to require no additional motor mounts for hard launches). Have to dig to get to the drivers side motor mount. I think passenger side is pretty accessible (need to remove the coolant reservoir (I think that is the one)).
Depending on how efficient you work, it seems like you could do the shocks and rear motor mount in a few hours. I'm not sure about the front end links as I have not done them, or looked into them. It took me about 45 minutes to do my rear shocks with jack stands and dicking around with the adjustments on them.
Front struts are sort of a pain. Rear shocks are easy.
As far as a lift, you might contact dwalker or AuroraAxela. Don owns a shop and AA works in a shop.
I just got the rear motor mount. I don't lauch from a dead stop if at all possible. I'm not into 1/4 mile times, (can't afford the tires) just wanted to reduce the misalignment of the shifting when motor is twisted from high torque. I looked into that JBarone mount too, but decided there would be too much cabin noise and vibration. There is too much road noise as it is from the factory, and I didn't want to add a buzzing motor to the mix.
WINGSPD wrote:I just got the rear motor mount. I don't lauch from a dead stop if at all possible. I'm not into 1/4 mile times, (can't afford the tires) just wanted to reduce the misalignment of the shifting when motor is twisted from high torque. I looked into that JBarone mount too, but decided there would be too much cabin noise and vibration. There is too much road noise as it is from the factory, and I didn't want to add a buzzing motor to the mix.
I sort of replied to both of you....I was unclear about which mounts geo got.
For you, the rear end should be pretty quick. The front I just don't know enough about. I did my springs (Eibach pro kit) and rear camber arms myself on jack stands and it took me forever (over 12 hours), but i had never done anything like that before. On a lift with some experience, probably 3-4 hours. Shocks are easier than rear springs. you should get those knocked out in 45 minutes if you don't have hangups. Probably an hour for the rmm (at least that iswhat I have been told several times). Rear end links are pretty straight forward. Maybe 30 minutes. Just have no idea on the fronts.
Where did you hear about engine noise from the jbarone? Have you experienced one? I ask because i was told by him that it isn't bad and actually settles in to almost factory after 500 miles or so. I drive my car for a long commute daily and don't want excessive vibrations either. I'm not sure if the auto x start is considered launching or not, but it seemed like it to me, which is why I was leaning toward the J Barone, but 1 track day/ month (max) in the future doesn't outweigh the 20 days of commuting.
I was talking about the strut-top-mounts, which the peeps on MSF.org say should be replaced with the struts + bushings, I don't know much about suspension, I have the Koni's ordered but haven't gotten the mounts/bushings yet, looking for a place that has them at a lower price, right now it looks like $160 for 4 mounts, $120 for 4 bushings
kinda more than i expected
kinda more than i expected<a href="http://www.alaze.us">
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[SIZE="1"][color="SeaGreen"]speed reknize' speed[/color]
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- SecondGenPAt
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geo2maz wrote:I was talking about the strut-top-mounts, which the peeps on MSF.org say should be replaced with the struts + bushings, I don't know much about suspension, I have the Koni's ordered but haven't gotten the mounts/bushings yet, looking for a place that has them at a lower price, right now it looks like $160 for 4 mounts, $120 for 4 bushingskinda more than i expected
The strut hats/bearings/mounts (whatever you want their name to be should always be replaced when replacing the front struts on a MacPherson suspension vehicle. they receive so much wear that it is a no brainer to change them.
Funny thing though Alain, on my RX7 the front struts have actually worn enough around the shock shaft to induce the same vibaration as worn strut bearings. I bring this up because the only other car I've seen this on is an E30.

Hakuna Matata
- SecondGenPAt
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- Location: Jincheon, South Korea
Shadowden wrote:more informed person chimed in.
What about rear shoch mounts Pat. Not sure what is meant by that.
The Rear shock mounts are the upper mounts that attach the rear shock to the body. on street cars they're rubber isolated to dampen vibrations and road noise. Only reason to change them is if they are cracking , but that usually requires removal of the whole damper to inspect.
On BMW e36 and e46 (same car suspension wise) the rear shock mounts are known to fail and allow the shock shaft to poke through and say hello to you while driving. (on those cars the dampers are separate from the springs, also why you cannot convert to coilovers on the rear without major fab work)
Hakuna Matata
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