My new car!

Talk about your Rotaries!
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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Wed Sep 21, 2011 9:14

xIceHoundx wrote:Lol for the sake of not reading thru 48 pages on this topic what all you got done to your FD now chicken? I noticed on the first page you said you got water/meth, your system is delivered based on boost pressures right? I just picked up an aquamist HFS3v2 water/meth injection system with their RX7 summer its delivers based on fuel injector duty cycle I wanted mine to be very fine tuned.


First off, I have a Snow Stage 2 water/meth kit. I'm not a fan. It's a progressive AI system which is nice, but the control module is binary. It's has it's own built-in MAP sensor that sucks. I have it set to spray at 1psi and it won't come on until about 5-7, which is fine, because that's where I want it, but I just can't dial it in like I want to. The pump is also on the lower end of the pressure range (150psi) whereas companies like AEM, Devils Own, FJO, Aquamist etc have pumps up to 250psi+. This helps tremendously with atomization.

As far as tuning a kit based off injector duty cycle it's a good idea, but I'll stick with boost pressure. The Summer module is good because it also references secondary injectors IIRC whereas most kits don't and that's why they don't work well on the FD because of our two banks of staged injectors.

You have a very good mod list there. Some stuff I would vote to skip. The $300 pulley set is overkill. Search on ebay for "Togue Factory RX7 pulley kit" (or something to that effect) and you will find some IMO nice pulleys for around $180. They're just bling anyways so don't spend too much money there.

Secondly, the HKS Twin power you listed is a GREAT ignition system, don't get me wrong, and even more so due to the PnP harness, but it's lacking one feature I love; a 2-step. It's also a little pricey for what it is. I'm getting an MSD 6AL-2 which is an ignition booster but also has a built-in 2-step for launch control. Works exceptionally well and is cheaper than the HKS to boot. The big drawback is you have to wire it yourself (not too difficult) and the unit is rather large so placement can be difficult.

Also, do you have any reasoning in particular to go with a Haltech EMS? The PFC is the rule-of-thumb for the FD world, and for good reason. Don't get me wrong, the PFC has it's drawbacks, some of them are glaring, but most can be overlooked. It does do a lot of things exceptionally well out of the box (such as secondary injector staging which is HUGE on our cars), and it's PnP. Plus, it's about half of what you'll spend for a Haltech, although you might want a Datalogit interface box.

What injectors does that CJ Motorsports kit come with? I'm betting based off the price they come with the run of the mill Bosch 880 primaries and 1680 secondaries. I would HIGHLY advise against larger, low impedance primary injectors. They create a shitty idle and bad highway cruising experiences. Injector Dynamics (ID) injectors are the way to go! Yes, they are more pricey, but they are 100% worth it. I don't have enough time/bandwidth/etc to completely explain why, but trust me, they are worth it. You can also save some money by piecing together your own fuel kit...

Lastly, I would steer you away from those AEM gauges. I bought some analog series AEM's when they first came out and I wasn't too happy with them. The WB02 analog is GREAT, but that's about it. I sold my boost gauge because it was rather slow. Replaced it with a mechanical AutoMeter and never looked back. I still have the analog WB02 and water/meth flow gauge, which work well, but other than, I wouldn't get too many AEM gauges. The fuel press and other gauges are fine, but at the minimum don't get the boost gauge- it's far too slow. Just look at some mechanical boost gauge, and you'll save money to boot.

VRx8 wrote:Got to love the Brap Brap, Dave just go with a bridge #### it lol


I thought about going bridgeport, but I'm just not about having no power until 4000rpm plus. I know I can get some better midrange depending on the port but I don't know. Plus, I don't feel comfortable with cutting my own bridgeport, so I would for sure have to send the irons out.

eliminster wrote:oh just so everyone knows I go to school at csu pueblo in the automotive industry managment program, i have access to everything our program has which might include in the near future a dyno and up to date alignment system.


Awesome, that's good news, I would love to be able to hit up a dyno!
:eek:

eliminster
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Postby eliminster » Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:14

We have the money approved they just have to give it to us then install which will take time since they have to rip out the old archaic one that is here from I think the early 70's.
87 red rx7
running 13b re cosmo motor
03 yellow wrx
yes it is a stock color
00 black s10 zr2
yes i have it to tow cars when they break.

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xIceHoundx
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Postby xIceHoundx » Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:First off, I have a Snow Stage 2 water/meth kit. I'm not a fan. It's a progressive AI system which is nice, but the control module is binary. It's has it's own built-in MAP sensor that sucks. I have it set to spray at 1psi and it won't come on until about 5-7, which is fine, because that's where I want it, but I just can't dial it in like I want to. The pump is also on the lower end of the pressure range (150psi) whereas companies like AEM, Devils Own, FJO, Aquamist etc have pumps up to 250psi+. This helps tremendously with atomization.

As far as tuning a kit based off injector duty cycle it's a good idea, but I'll stick with boost pressure. The Summer module is good because it also references secondary injectors IIRC whereas most kits don't and that's why they don't work well on the FD because of our two banks of staged injectors.

You have a very good mod list there. Some stuff I would vote to skip. The $300 pulley set is overkill. Search on ebay for "Togue Factory RX7 pulley kit" (or something to that effect) and you will find some IMO nice pulleys for around $180. They're just bling anyways so don't spend too much money there.

Secondly, the HKS Twin power you listed is a GREAT ignition system, don't get me wrong, and even more so due to the PnP harness, but it's lacking one feature I love; a 2-step. It's also a little pricey for what it is. I'm getting an MSD 6AL-2 which is an ignition booster but also has a built-in 2-step for launch control. Works exceptionally well and is cheaper than the HKS to boot. The big drawback is you have to wire it yourself (not too difficult) and the unit is rather large so placement can be difficult.

Also, do you have any reasoning in particular to go with a Haltech EMS? The PFC is the rule-of-thumb for the FD world, and for good reason. Don't get me wrong, the PFC has it's drawbacks, some of them are glaring, but most can be overlooked. It does do a lot of things exceptionally well out of the box (such as secondary injector staging which is HUGE on our cars), and it's PnP. Plus, it's about half of what you'll spend for a Haltech, although you might want a Datalogit interface box.

What injectors does that CJ Motorsports kit come with? I'm betting based off the price they come with the run of the mill Bosch 880 primaries and 1680 secondaries. I would HIGHLY advise against larger, low impedance primary injectors. They create a shitty idle and bad highway cruising experiences. Injector Dynamics (ID) injectors are the way to go! Yes, they are more pricey, but they are 100% worth it. I don't have enough time/bandwidth/etc to completely explain why, but trust me, they are worth it. You can also save some money by piecing together your own fuel kit...

Lastly, I would steer you away from those AEM gauges. I bought some analog series AEM's when they first came out and I wasn't too happy with them. The WB02 analog is GREAT, but that's about it. I sold my boost gauge because it was rather slow. Replaced it with a mechanical AutoMeter and never looked back. I still have the analog WB02 and water/meth flow gauge, which work well, but other than, I wouldn't get too many AEM gauges. The fuel press and other gauges are fine, but at the minimum don't get the boost gauge- it's far too slow. Just look at some mechanical boost gauge, and you'll save money to boot.


Yea the CJ motorsports stage 1 fuel rail set that I was looking at does come with Bosch 1680cc secondary with Siemens 850cc primary. For 300 dollars more you can get it with Injector Dynamics 2200cc Secondary with 1000cc primary. Would you suggest those or should I be looking at different sizes than those?

Ive had buddies who used AEM gauges and liked them, The ones I was looking at are all digital gauges not mechanical tho thats what my buddies have used and seemed to like quite a bit, youve only used AEM mechanical or have you used AEM digitals as well?

Most builds ive seen for FD esp on the forums most were using the HKS twin Power ignition system, 2 step really isnt all that important for me I dont really plan to be dragging or launching it too crazy my build is geared more towards wanting to get track time so road course build. Electrical and wiring isnt something im too comfortable with so having to do it myself would be a huge drawback.

Yea I know like 95 percent of the FD world is running the PFC system but like youve said it lacks in quite a few different areas. I have gone back and forth with Steve Kan in email a few months ago about which EMS to use, because as we all know, those of you who dont take note lol, the best EMS is the one your tuner knows best and prefers, he said if money isnt a huge limiting factor Haltech PS1000 was a better choice. As I plan to have Steve Kan tune my car, hell if I gotta spend big to have him travel out just to get my car tuned i'll do it.
[color="Black"]SO [color="Red"]FRESH[/color][/color]

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:14

xIceHoundx wrote:Yea the CJ motorsports stage 1 fuel rail set that I was looking at does come with Bosch 1680cc secondary with Siemens 850cc primary. For 300 dollars more you can get it with Injector Dynamics 2200cc Secondary with 1000cc primary. Would you suggest those or should I be looking at different sizes than those?

Ive had buddies who used AEM gauges and liked them, The ones I was looking at are all digital gauges not mechanical tho thats what my buddies have used and seemed to like quite a bit, youve only used AEM mechanical or have you used AEM digitals as well?

Most builds ive seen for FD esp on the forums most were using the HKS twin Power ignition system, 2 step really isnt all that important for me I dont really plan to be dragging or launching it too crazy my build is geared more towards wanting to get track time so road course build. Electrical and wiring isnt something im too comfortable with so having to do it myself would be a huge drawback.

Yea I know like 95 percent of the FD world is running the PFC system but like youve said it lacks in quite a few different areas. I have gone back and forth with Steve Kan in email a few months ago about which EMS to use, because as we all know, those of you who dont take note lol, the best EMS is the one your tuner knows best and prefers, he said if money isnt a huge limiting factor Haltech PS1000 was a better choice. As I plan to have Steve Kan tune my car, hell if I gotta spend big to have him travel out just to get my car tuned i'll do it.


What is your power goal? Around 500rwhp right? On pump gas, using the stock 550cc side feed primaries with the ID 2200cc secondaries is still good to over 600rwhp. This is the setup I'm using because I keep my stock primaries to maintain an excellent, stock-like idle and just use the secondaries for power. This also saves some coin on primary injectors, the rail, and some fittings, etc. The main drawback to this is staging the secondaries becomes very important, because the gap in size from the primaries to the secondaries is huge. But this is where the high impedance ID injectors really shine, because they are so linear and can be run at such low pulse widths, it's an easy proposition.

If you're not looking for a 2-step (and the Haltech has one built in anyways) then go with the HKS Twin power. I was only merely providing another alternative for less money that has more features.

Yes, I agree with going with the EMS your tuner of choice recommends. It's pointless to get, for example, an HKS V-Con Pro if no one around here knows how to tune it. You're then stuck with an un-driveable car. My questions for you is, what happens if you change something in your setup or something happens and your car no longer drives the way it should? Are you going to pay to fly Steve into town (he also usually doesn't do that without having a group tuning session anyways) and have him re-tune your car at the potential cost of $600 a pop (just for the tune, never mind the roundtrip plane ticket and hotel room, plus dyno rental fees) each and every time?

I only say this because it's pretty rare to nail a tune and get an end-all-be-all tune (dare I say impossible?) in one 2-4 hour dyno session. Just ain't gonna happen. Environmental changes will occur and can potentially mess up your tune unless you have every single correction table dialed in 100%. You start running more boost or change a turbo, fuel pump, injectors, or do something and now what? The point I'm trying to drive is when you have a highly modified car such as you're planning it usually requires some degree of tweaking on a regular basis, unless you're happy with just a standard "tune".
:eek:

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xIceHoundx
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Postby xIceHoundx » Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:14

True if I did change anything on my build it would mean having to get retuned, thats why I had planned on getting the build done in a single shot then getting tuned. I feel more comfortable with a EMS that gives the tuner the ability to fine tune and give me the best out of my build. First FD I owned had PFC and didnt even have AC because of it, was brutal in TX summer heat. Had HKS Fcon Vpro on the R32 GTR and I liked it, was tuned by Kenny Tran at Jotech Motorsports and yea it takes about a day to get a tune finely tuned but it was worth it. Steve Kan said the haltech would give me a better power band and better fuel economy as well, sounded good to me, ive got a few thousand set aside for the initial tune already lol.
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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:14

Early PFC's wouldn't function the A/C clutch but it's a simple relay to fix it. My PFC has never had issues with the A/C and it works fine. I used to want to ditch the A/C in my Fd but now I think people are crazy who delete it. So yes you can absolutely use the A/C with the PFC.

I'm not trying to discourage you in anyway, get whatever EMS you want. I just think the PFC is a great EMS for not a whole lot of money and it's easy to tune to boot. Yes it's lacking some features but most of the extra features you get in higher end EMS' are too technical for most people to setup anyways.

I'm not saying the PFC is the end-all EMS in the FD, it's just a very good option. I tried an AEM standalone and wasn't a huge fan of it. It worked but not as easily as the PFC does. Hell, I might even switch to a Haltech someday, or a MoTeC or a Link G4. As a tuner and someone who loves to tune, I'm always looking for a good EMS to play with and whatever EMS will give me the best driving experience (power, fuel economy, driveablitly, etc)
:eek:

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xIceHoundx
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Postby xIceHoundx » Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:Early PFC's wouldn't function the A/C clutch but it's a simple relay to fix it. My PFC has never had issues with the A/C and it works fine. I used to want to ditch the A/C in my Fd but now I think people are crazy who delete it. So yes you can absolutely use the A/C with the PFC.

I'm not trying to discourage you in anyway, get whatever EMS you want. I just think the PFC is a great EMS for not a whole lot of money and it's easy to tune to boot. Yes it's lacking some features but most of the extra features you get in higher end EMS' are too technical for most people to setup anyways.

I'm not saying the PFC is the end-all EMS in the FD, it's just a very good option. I tried an AEM standalone and wasn't a huge fan of it. It worked but not as easily as the PFC does. Hell, I might even switch to a Haltech someday, or a MoTeC or a Link G4. As a tuner and someone who loves to tune, I'm always looking for a good EMS to play with and whatever EMS will give me the best driving experience (power, fuel economy, driveablitly, etc)


Dont worry about me thinking your trying to change my mind or anything, you put out some solid points and things to think about as well that I may not have thought myself, plus you prob know allot more technically than I do. Yea I def understand the benifits of PFC, mainly that most of the community is using it so more options for tuners. But im no tuner, and I wouldnt wanna start learning with a car thats touchy at best esp when its my own lol. For me the cost wasnt nearly as important as the quality, and while those extra features found in higher end EMS are too techinical for most people when you put it in the hands of someone who is skilled(Steve Kan) the end product is amazing. Lol I hate the idea of a system that claims plug and play but then you gotta do all this jerry rigging with your wiring to make the ac work.
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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:14

Well my PFC works PnP with the A/C, no wiring. It was just some early PFC units that did it. It's nearly a non-issue now. Haltech's a far from PnP generally, unless they have changed significantly since I've helped wire one from scratch with GM sensors (which I believe they have).

And just because you have someone competent enough to access and utilize all the technical extras of the EMS, doesn't mean you are going to use them, such as 2-step, trim knobs, map switching, etc. I just think a lot of people get caught up "gimmicks" some EMS' have that 99% of the user base won't ever use. They convince themselves it's the best EMS for A, B, C, D, and E features, but really they will only ever features A and B, ya know?
:eek:

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Sat Sep 24, 2011 9:14

Ordered the Pineapple medium/large streetporting templates for intake and exhaust ports. Also got the Pineapple idler pulley kit for deleting the air pump, a set of feeler gauges, and a set of carbide bits from Eastwood to get the porting done.

I'm still looking for a spare iron or housing to practice on if anyone has a trashed one? Willing to throw some coin your way too
:eek:

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iani1.1
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Postby iani1.1 » Sun Sep 25, 2011 9:14

you can use the fc irons and housings for practice as well, theres not much difference as far as intake and exhaust ports go. BRC on here might have trashed ones.
Image

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Sat Oct 01, 2011 9:14

Got the Pineapple and Eastwood orders in yesterday. Tested out the carbine burrs with my air die grinder on my UIM porting and they work pretty well but not as aggressive as I originally thought they would be. The good news is they don't wear nearly as fast as a stone so that's nice.

Busy this weekend so next weekend I'm taking the irons over the local machine shop to be hot tanked and the aluminum housings are getting jet tanked (aluminum can't be hot tanked). After they are all shiny clean I'll get some paint on them in my baller status paint combo I'm thinking of and then it's porting time.
:eek:

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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Sun Oct 09, 2011 9:14

Finally got some pictures of the porting of the LIM:

Image

Up close:

Image

The Eastwood Carbide burrs:

Image

SakeBomb Garage 3-bar MAP sensor mount:

Image

Also found this odd thing on one of my rotor housings...

Image

It says "Guarantee Void if Removed"

Image

I've never seen this before. I wonder if the shop who rebuilt the engine before did this? Very odd, and an odd spot to put it since it was machined in.
:eek:

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VRx8
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Postby VRx8 » Sun Oct 09, 2011 9:14

That is very strange

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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Sun Oct 09, 2011 9:14

Ooh maybe I'll port my LIM now lol. Although it's already ceramic coated so I'd lose the coating on that part.

I wish I had known you were going to get the map sensor bracket, I could have saved you A LOT of money. I used Simon's and took it to a waterjet guy and had him make a couple for me and Zico, cost us $30 each since he had to input the design, but now I can get them for probably about $10 each. You just have to bend it and coat it, but that's not too hard. This one is a little thicker though, so the bend isn't quite as clean, but you really don't notice the difference. I wouldn't have had a problem buying one from SBG if they hadn't been (haven't been I should say) such douchebags about Chips Motorsports becoming competition and then swearing up and down they don't have a problem with competition, swearing they're not making any money off their projects (when it's obvious they are rolling in it while ripping people off), and they continue to bash Chip and then claim "hey, you don't know who we're talking about, we're just saying 'the competition'"...not too hard to figure out since there is only one other place making the stuff. /rant

I'm wondering about that void if removed thing too. That's weird.

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VRx8
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Postby VRx8 » Sun Oct 09, 2011 9:14

Can you get me one of those brackets?


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