My new car!

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Tue May 03, 2011 9:14

Actually maybe the one I had was OBX. I don't remember now haha.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Wed May 04, 2011 9:14

iani1.1 wrote:agree, cxracing is an ebay brand but better than the obx thats for sure.

but this is sexier lol

Haha I actually think that one is kind of ugly...not a divided/twin scroll setup so it isn't what I want either.

Full Race is Teh Sex!

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Fri May 06, 2011 9:14

Anyone catch this thread on 7club? http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=953139

Guy ran 10.87 @129mph on STOCK TWINS. Freaking insane. Cut a 1.57 60ft. Of course this is on slicks but not some gutted race car, either. I'm impressed, that's for sure! Almost makes me want to stick with the stock twins...almost haha

iani1.1 · Postby **iani1.1** » Fri May 06, 2011 9:14

wow thats an achievement.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Fri May 06, 2011 9:14

OK, I was wrong, his car is a gutted race car LOL. No A/C, PS, now interior plastics except for dash and center console, no carpet/floormats, no headliner, no passenger seat, no rear bins, no stereo or speakers, no passenger side headlight, no windshield wipers or wiper motor, etc. Also running skinny front tires with stock FD rears on MT ET Slicks. Wow, that's crazy!

While being a 10 second car is cool, that isn't a car you can live with IMO. That's why my goal is to get into the 11's. If I can 11 anything I'll be happy. 11's is still quicker than 98% of the cars out there...plus I will do it with my car is full street car trim, such as both leather seats, JDM rear seats, a sound systems, and my 17x10" wheels on street tires. No crazy weight reduction or missing headlights.

Not taking anything away from what he did- it's very impressive and awesome. Just that everyone has different goals with their cars and how they go about achieving them.

iani1.1 · Postby **iani1.1** » Fri May 06, 2011 9:14

lol damn but still only on stock twins. thats still somethin. a fast car isnt always a fun car

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Fri May 06, 2011 9:14

^That's true. You got to admire someone who comes up with a goal and sticks with it to accomplish it. He should be right around the record of horsepower on stock twins as well due to his time and trap speed that puts him around 422rwhp, I think the record on stock twins is 418rwhp or something.

But he's also running them at 22psi...I just can't imagine they last long at all at those compressor speeds.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sun May 08, 2011 9:14

So took the car out today since it's such a beautiful day...low to mid 80's in ambient temperature, and the highest coolant temperature I saw was 104*C! That's basically 220*F, which is hotter than I would like to run.

As of right now I have plans to buy an ETS front mounted intercooler and a Koyo dual pass N-FLO radiator to keep operating temps in check. I'm starting to wonder if this is the ideal combo or not.

I've been thinking about a v-mount for a long time, but truth be told I'm not a huge fan of the look and they also do have drawbacks, like any design. The key with a v-mount is ducting (really with any heat exchanger this is the rule), because obviously without good ducting air won't flow through the heat exchangers but instead it will flow around them. This means to really take advantage of a v-mount setup you need a ducted hood, and I want to keep the stock hood.

I also did not want to relocate my battery and keep it up front but I am slowly starting to realize I will have to relocate it to the hatch in order to free up space in the engine bay.

So now I have to address cooling...with me having to either do a FMIC with a radiator or v-mount setup this summer and the added expense that comes with that, I'm thinking of holding onto the twins for another year, albeit picking up some known good used ones for between $300-$400 bucks. Those should last fine as I will run them non-sequential and boost to 15-18psi. This way all I have to do in order to go single turbo will be bolt on a manifold and turbo, fab a downpipe, run oil feed/return lines, and connect the compressor discharge to my charge cooling setup (whether it's FMIC or v-mount) and done.

It's not what I want to do right now, but knowing I could crack 400rwhp (with a lot of work) on the stock twins makes me want to hang onto them for a little longer. Really, the main reason I want to ditch my current twins is because they smoke so much freaking oil. If they didn't smoke, I wouldn't be in a hurry to swap them.

Now, as far as v-mounts go, there are a lot of options out there for the FD, but most IMO are overpriced. I'm debating between the Rotary Works v-mount or the Defined Autoworks kit. Problem is neither really appeal to me. I love the Rotary Extreme kits but they are $$$$. So this is why I'm debating just running the ETS FMIC with a Koyo rad...

I'm also looking at installing a digital ignition control box with a 2-step this summer while the motor is out. Having a hard time deciding which one between these two, they are basically the same and cost the same as well:

Crane Cams HI-6DSR CD ignition box: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-6000-6424/

i like the Crane unit because it has a built-in 2-step, so no external box like the MSD, but then if it fails I have to get a whole new box. Also, not as many people run these, most opt for the MSD.

MSD 6AL Digital CD ignition: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6425/

The MSD 6AL basically does all the same features as the Crane unit, except it doesn't have a built-in 2-step. Both will boost coil energy significantly. In order to run a 2-step on the MSD, I need this external module:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8732/

Having the external module makes it nice because I could run the module inside the cockpit so I can make adjustments inside without having to get out and pop the hood like with the Crane ignition box. But really, how often will I need to change the 2-step rev limiter? Maybe a handful of times if even.

So there are the updates, nothing exciting as of yet.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sun May 08, 2011 9:14

As far as VMIC goes, my temps (according to the SPA gauge anyway) have been around 165F and mine isn't even ducted. I'll check the commander to see what it's reading in C to just verify though. Tonight just before dusk on the highway, I didn't have the fans on and the temps were getting down to 162F.

Funny you mention the RE kits. I've been looking at the Defined Autoworks kits and I really like them, and I had pretty much decided to get one. So I guess I know who to sell my VMIC to haha. My only concerns with the DA one is how far the IC sits back, so I'd have to get a different/shorter filter I think, but it all depends on the new turbo too. The other concern is if the radiator mounts will work with the front tow hook. But anyway, if those two pose a problem I might not get it, but if I do get that kit and if you're interested to could get my RE VMIC.

But another thing to think about though, and I'm sure you have, is to make sure the IC isn't too big for the stock twins. That's why I didn't install the VMIC until I had a single turbo. Just a thought.

Oh, and for the battery, I'm not sure if you wanted to use something as small as a PC680 but I had a box made for it that mounts where the stock battery is but it's nice and snug right there in the corner, where my 2-cycle oil tank is now.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:14

If you want to part ways with your RE V-mount I will FOR SURE buy it off you. I love the RE kits, they are just out of my price range. But your new turbo has a longer CHRA so the turbo will be physically larger as well, so keep that in mind.

165*F is pretty damn cool haha...the motor isn't even technically fully warmed up yet! Optimum operating range is 185-195*F, otherwise you can issues when you're too coolant is too cold. Another thing is you have dual aftermarket oil coolers, and since in a rotary oil does about 40% of the cooling, this is a big deal. I still only have one stock cooler, so by installing dual aftermarket coolers I should drop at least 10*F off my coolant temps.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:14

Longer CHRA? The center part? How? I thought it was about the same, I figured just the back would be longer but only on the one with a built in WG. Either way, getting the new VMIC kit hinges on the turbo and if I want to make some sort of filter piping to relocate the filter haha.

Yeah it's a little too cold haha. I'm not 100% sure how correct that is though, because on the old engine with the old gauge, it read around 170 or so under the same conditions, IIRC. And even though I've grounded the sensor like I'm supposed to it's STILL acting crazy sometimes. Really pisses me off.

So why don't you do an aftermarket oil cooler kit first? Well, after fixing the leaking oil problem haha.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon May 09, 2011 9:14

The CHRA is longer in your new turbo due to the heavy duty sealed bearings it uses. It's actually quite a bit larger than standard turbos.

I want to do twin oil coolers, but I think I will address some other stuff first. Namely pulling the engine to reseal the pan and convert to non sequential.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sun May 15, 2011 9:14

So I'm still debating on how to cool this beast. I have a few options and this is what I'm considering:

RX7Store V-mount: Kit is priced right, but I'm not 100% sold on the performance, although I can't imagine it being bad. Biggest concern here is fitment and how I can retain A/C. On the website they claim "customer is responsible for fitting A/C condenser". That doesn't sound too bad, just some brackets, but when I look at the pictures closer I don't see any room for the A/C dryer. Also, I would have to fabricate ducting.

Koyo N-FLO rad and GReddy M-Spec FMIC: Obviously not a v-mount but I still think it would cool the FD just fine, especially for our weather. This is also less money but only by about $600 bucks, and to be honest, I kind of just like the look/routing of the intercooler pipes. A pretty proven setup but I'm not big on having the same parts as everyone else. Known I can keep A/C relatively easily. Biggest concern here is there will be a giant intercooler blocking the radiator (and then an A/C condenser), so technically the radiator would actually get less airflow than it does now with my SMIC, which makes me a little concerned about coolant temps.

As of right now I'm really just on the fence. I really want to keep A/C and I don't think the v-mount will allow me to do so, at least easily.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon May 16, 2011 9:14

Also, I was able to score a fast reacting IAT sensor with a PnP harness today. The company that makes them stopped due to supply problems in Japan, so they are getting rather difficult to find. I was pretty happy to find one! Now I will at least have an accurate idea of what my IAT's are instead of my actual manifold temperature.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Mon May 16, 2011 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:So I'm still debating on how to cool this beast. I have a few options and this is what I'm considering:

RX7Store V-mount: Kit is priced right, but I'm not 100% sold on the performance, although I can't imagine it being bad. Biggest concern here is fitment and how I can retain A/C. On the website they claim "customer is responsible for fitting A/C condenser". That doesn't sound too bad, just some brackets, but when I look at the pictures closer I don't see any room for the A/C dryer. Also, I would have to fabricate ducting.

Koyo N-FLO rad and GReddy M-Spec FMIC: Obviously not a v-mount but I still think it would cool the FD just fine, especially for our weather. This is also less money but only by about $600 bucks, and to be honest, I kind of just like the look/routing of the intercooler pipes. A pretty proven setup but I'm not big on having the same parts as everyone else. Known I can keep A/C relatively easily. Biggest concern here is there will be a giant intercooler blocking the radiator (and then an A/C condenser), so technically the radiator would actually get less airflow than it does now with my SMIC, which makes me a little concerned about coolant temps.

As of right now I'm really just on the fence. I really want to keep A/C and I don't think the v-mount will allow me to do so, at least easily.

That's why I love the one from Defined Autoworks, it's dirt cheap and comes with EVERYTHING you need. However, I don't remember how easily keeping AC would be. I've thought about trying to add it back in, but, meh. I think my kit actually came with the brackets to mount the condenser, I just didn't feel like remaking the lines for the conden and I didn't have room for the dryer. I think you could find your own radiator and IC and make your own VMIC kit, you'd just have to get an IC small enough and mount it over to the left further so you can fit the dryer in there. And you mentioned the pipe routing for FMIC, which is another reason I love VMIC, very direct airflow. Although like we've talked about, if you had two good sized oil coolers I think you'd be fine on the radiator with a FMIC.

chickenwafer wrote:Also, I was able to score a fast reacting IAT sensor with a PnP harness today. The company that makes them stopped due to supply problems in Japan, so they are getting rather difficult to find. I was pretty happy to find one! Now I will at least have an accurate idea of what my IAT's are instead of my actual manifold temperature.

I had no idea those were discontinued for the moment. Glad I got mine when I did haha. Did you get it from Wannaspeed?

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