Vac/Boost Leak on Primary Fuel rail
- speedjunkie
- Senior Member
- Posts: 5337
- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
- Contact:
speedjunkie wrote:Color and smell of smoke? Might not be sparking for some reason. Weird that it would just die like that though. I'd definitely at least do a poor man's compression test first though.
Now u got me thinking, is white smoke and all i can smell is raw fuel.It doesn't sound like metals grinding inside or any weird sound.
- chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
speedjunkie wrote:Yeah I wouldn't claim the engine is toast yet. I don't know how long you had the 8 or what 8 owners usually experience, but from what you said, it could just be something simple. The engine still turns over right? Have you checked spark, fuel, and...uh, air? LOL I know, air is pretty simple, but definitely check the others first.
And I will DEFINITELY ignore the LSX comment Nick. LOL
I second the notion on 3mm. I've done a little bit of reading on it, and from what I've heard, it's just a myth that you can boost more with them and all that. What I've also read is that they don't seal as well as 2mm seals. I have no idea to be honest with you, but I'm sticking with 2mm.
And IIRC I still have 10 vac on mine when I'm not in boost, even with a single, and it's that way for the stock twins too.
It's actually proven 3mm apex's seal WORSE than 2mm seals. I'm not just pulling info out of my *** here, either, I've have this information on good record from, oh about 7 different very reputable engine builders- probably some of the best in the country. This includes Banzai/Chris Sanders, BDC/Brian Cain, Rotary Racing & Reliability/Nick, Arizona Rotary Rockets/Glen Weaver, and Yaw Power/Paul Yaw, just to name some.
Further evidence is 3mm sealed motors consistently pull less vacuum than 2mm motors. IMHO, 3mm seals are a band-aid for poor tuning and setup, and actually don't provide more power. They make LESS power due to their inability to seal efficiently.
/ rant on 3mm seals LOL. I would NEVER get them in my motor, or ever recommend anyone gets them. Not to mention, I've seen plenty of 2mm seals hold up to SOME detonation, just as 3's have. I don't believe they are even that much stronger. And usually when you detonate bad enough to blow a 3mm apex seal or two, you trash the entire motor, i.e. housings, irons, rotors, if not worse. Hello to doubling your rebuild bill.
VRx8 wrote:Im not going to be able to bring the car, so im just going to take the engine out and bring the short block and all the parts needed i just hope the irons are ok. Now do i need the master kit or the basic??
Oh yeah, forgot you won't be able to drive it LOL. Well, you can just bring the keg up here and we'll knock it out!
- chickenwafer
- Posts: 2515
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:14
- Location: Greeley
VRx8 wrote:Now u got me thinking, is white smoke and all i can smell is raw fuel.It doesn't sound like metals grinding inside or any weird sound.
If it's smoking white you might just be pushing unburnt fuel out. You can try pulling the fuel pump fuse and cranking it a few times to see if the smoking stops. Or have a friend hold a paper towel behind the exhaust tip and see if it collects fuel droplets.
If it's just pushing fuel out, it's probably not getting spark.
If you pull the fuel pump fuse and the smoke is still coming out, it could be coolant. It should be a very sweet smell. Again, if you hold a paper towel directly behind the exhaust tip you should be able to collect droplets of whatever your motor is pushing out to aid in identifying what substance it is.
Oh yeah, about the rebuild kit, you need the Master kit. Base kit doesn't have corner seals, side seals, and some various springs, which you need.
But yeah, do the "poor mans" compression test like I described before to hear if anything is weird. Remember, you're listening for 3 solid "woosh" noises.
-
turboholic
- Member
- Posts: 47
- Joined: Mon Nov 16, 2009 9:14
- Location: colorado springs/tampa/afg
that swap sucks dude, its always cheaper to just do a built 13b, plus if you are thinking about paying that much for an LSX swap you may as well just do a full build with the engine that's already in there. By the time you buy the engine, do the exhaust, buy a driveshaft, and do everything else you need to do you could have built a 500hp rotary engine haha
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
[SIZE="5"]Lovely Idol Paintworks[/SIZE]
303-362-3632
[SIZE="5"]Lovely Idol Paintworks[/SIZE]
303-362-3632
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 34 guests
