Vac/Boost Leak on Primary Fuel rail

Chance · Postby **Chance** » Fri Jul 16, 2010 9:14

Tell them to shut the **** up

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Fri Jul 16, 2010 9:14

That IS pretty freaky Dave. I've had problems trying to get belts after deleting A/C and airpump too. Same shit, different part.

Chance · Postby **Chance** » Fri Jul 16, 2010 9:14

My least favorite thing is dealing with them haha

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sat Jul 17, 2010 9:14

Yeah it's a real pain sometimes, but sometimes you get the ones that recognize that you're not a dumbass and they just help you as much as they can.

erod550 · Postby **erod550** » Sat Jul 17, 2010 9:14

I used to be a pretty loyal Checker customer until they made the switch to O'Reilly and the couple guys at the store had no idea how to even work the computer. After one time waiting 20 minutes for the guy to figure out how to look up the part I needed and then telling me they didn't have it in stock and couldn't even order it, I went across the street to AutoZone and haven't looked back. Had nothing but good experiences with AZ so far. <fingers crossed>

iani1.1 · Postby **iani1.1** » Sat Jul 17, 2010 9:14

VRx8 wrote:I asked to see if they got anything similar to that and he said no. So i walked away I hate lazy old people!

i take it you went to the one on academy next to the sams club?

edit: oh yea i used to ask the guys at autozone to look for a head gasket for the 7. just ask and wait for the magic to happen lmao

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:14

Got the o-rings on today, i put them on my car, did all the vac leak check with carb cleaner and the car didn't bogged down. Although my gauge was reading 10 on Vac still. So i went for a test drive went WOT on 3rd gear engine went to shit. Still didn't get boost at 4k rpm. Oh well engine is done it won't even idle, when i get back im going to rebuild it, get brand new housings, have to check the condition of the irons as well as the rotors, Big streetport like it was and als 2mm (unbreakable) seals. I need to find out WTF happened so i can get that straight.

turboholic · Postby **turboholic** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:14

... Lsx

iani1.1 · Postby **iani1.1** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:14

^^lets all ignore that lol

ive had that before then i replaced the turbo and then it was all good. so bad turbo probably? lol i say it split out an apex seal.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:14

Still have your compression tester right? You could try that to see what went missing...

Or do the poor mans compression test, just pull each plug out of one housing at a time, pull the EGI fuse so there's no spark, and crank it over. Listen for each "woosh" "woosh" "woosh" of the compression chambers.

If you hear "woosh" "puff" "puff" it's a gone apex seal, if you get "woosh" "woosh" "puff" you have a missing side seal.

Sorry you lost the motor man, sucks. Do you think you could have over-boosted and the car went lean? Possible since it wasn't tuned for boost really.

Don't worry, when you get back w can rebuild it together! It will be kick ***!

-Dave

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:Still have your compression tester right? You could try that to see what went missing...

Or do the poor mans compression test, just pull each plug out of one housing at a time, pull the EGI fuse so there's no spark, and crank it over. Listen for each "woosh" "woosh" "woosh" of the compression chambers.

If you hear "woosh" "puff" "puff" it's a gone apex seal, if you get "woosh" "woosh" "puff" you have a missing side seal.

Sorry you lost the motor man, sucks. Do you think you could have over-boosted and the car went lean? Possible since it wasn't tuned for boost really.

Don't worry, when you get back w can rebuild it together! It will be kick ***!

-Dave

It should be fun, im also looking for experience this time is going to be build right. Im coming for that 450whp lol. Also heard wonderful things about the ALS apex.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:14

Look into the Rotary Aviation Rebuild kits.

http://www.rotaryaviation.com

Their kits are some of the less expensive LEGIT kits on the market. Additionally, for not much more, you can upgrade to RA Super Seals and Race Springs. I know some people claim these "eat housings" but they are some of the best sealing apex's you can get, short of dropping $3k on a ceramic set of NRS or Iannetti seals. Or the RA Classic seals, which the kit comes with, work good, too.

Just don't go 3mm! It's a waste of time, don't get suckered into it haha (I know I'm probably going to take some heat for saying that, but oh well..).

When you get back we can have a rebuild party! I have all the tools and a stand at my place. We can yank the motor, strip it down, clean it up, inspect/inventory everything, stack it, and throw it back in within a couple of days!

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:14

Yeah I wouldn't claim the engine is toast yet. I don't know how long you had the 8 or what 8 owners usually experience, but from what you said, it could just be something simple. The engine still turns over right? Have you checked spark, fuel, and...uh, air? LOL I know, air is pretty simple, but definitely check the others first.

And I will DEFINITELY ignore the LSX comment Nick. LOL

I second the notion on 3mm. I've done a little bit of reading on it, and from what I've heard, it's just a myth that you can boost more with them and all that. What I've also read is that they don't seal as well as 2mm seals. I have no idea to be honest with you, but I'm sticking with 2mm.

And IIRC I still have 10 vac on mine when I'm not in boost, even with a single, and it's that way for the stock twins too.

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:Look into the Rotary Aviation Rebuild kits.

http://www.rotaryaviation.com

Their kits are some of the less expensive LEGIT kits on the market. Additionally, for not much more, you can upgrade to RA Super Seals and Race Springs. I know some people claim these "eat housings" but they are some of the best sealing apex's you can get, short of dropping $3k on a ceramic set of NRS or Iannetti seals. Or the RA Classic seals, which the kit comes with, work good, too.

Just don't go 3mm! It's a waste of time, don't get suckered into it haha (I know I'm probably going to take some heat for saying that, but oh well..).

When you get back we can have a rebuild party! I have all the tools and a stand at my place. We can yank the motor, strip it down, clean it up, inspect/inventory everything, stack it, and throw it back in within a couple of days!

Im not going to be able to bring the car, so im just going to take the engine out and bring the short block and all the parts needed i just hope the irons are ok. Now do i need the master kit or the basic??

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:14

speedjunkie wrote:Yeah I wouldn't claim the engine is toast yet. I don't know how long you had the 8 or what 8 owners usually experience, but from what you said, it could just be something simple. The engine still turns over right? Have you checked spark, fuel, and...uh, air? LOL I know, air is pretty simple, but definitely check the others first.

And I will DEFINITELY ignore the LSX comment Nick. LOL

I second the notion on 3mm. I've done a little bit of reading on it, and from what I've heard, it's just a myth that you can boost more with them and all that. What I've also read is that they don't seal as well as 2mm seals. I have no idea to be honest with you, but I'm sticking with 2mm.

And IIRC I still have 10 vac on mine when I'm not in boost, even with a single, and it's that way for the stock twins too.

The engine still turns on if u give it gas, u can smell raw fuel and see a lot of smoke coming out.

Vac/Boost Leak on Primary Fuel rail

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