Paint needed anyone?

Body kits, bling, lights
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Chance
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Paint needed anyone?

Postby Chance » Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:14

Not sure where to post something like this, however, if anyone is looking to get some paint work etc done on their vehicle I offer good rates and high quality with a lot of knowledge to go along with it.

Some examples of cars I have done
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Throttle body and intake manifold
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Complete respray on this car
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Clear coat fix on evo carbon blade
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SL500 full respray
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Fixed this, did full respray
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and of course one of my own cars
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I am in the process of getting a new phone so if anyone is interested, please don't hesitate to email me or shoot me a PM on here.

bellalyssa
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Postby bellalyssa » Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:14

How good is a "good" rate?

I can tell you what I need done and I'd be interested to see what the quote was for it.
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Postby Stealth01 » Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:14

yeah, I'd like to see a rate, too. I might be interested in getting my hood re-done.
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Postby deepSpeedMS3 » Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:14

i hear you on the hood..many rock chips...is there a ruff estimate you can give for an MS3 hood? sunlight silver? also what about a set of rims? quote?
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Postby Stealth01 » Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:14

deepSpeedMS3 wrote:i hear you on the hood..many rock chips...is there a ruff estimate you can give for an MS3 hood? sunlight silver? also what about a set of rims? quote?


Rock chips, plus the gouge that came in mine from the dealership/previous owner.

Also, chance, do you do a custom match to existing paint, or go straight with a factory mix? Seems like every Black Cherry Mica is a little different...
Stealth01

2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT
SURE Full3 Aeros ID300 SRI, SURE Torq R6 RMM, SURE Shortcut/Countershift, SURE Anchors, Dunlop Winterspot M3s (Winter Shoes), "O" Series Stubby Antenna, Red LED Dome & Door Lights, Whistler Pro-78 RD Hardwired, SURE Dreadnaught, Juggernaught, SURE Flow M6 TP, SURE Charge Tubes, Hawk HPS F/R Pads, Technafit SSBLs, StopTech Rotors, Cobb AP, SURE Ventus in 50-50 Hybrid Mode, [color="Lime"] PERM Tune[/color] (Stratified Auto) Coming soon: Autotech FP Internals, S6 Mounts

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Chance
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Postby Chance » Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:14

bellalyssa wrote:How good is a "good" rate?

I can tell you what I need done and I'd be interested to see what the quote was for it.


Depends on what you need done and what color. I can tell you that I saw your post somewhere else at the very high price you listed, and I will be cheaper as long as its not something ridiculous

deepSpeedMS3 wrote:i hear you on the hood..many rock chips...is there a ruff estimate you can give for an MS3 hood? sunlight silver? also what about a set of rims? quote?


I will have to triple check on the cost of the color, but basically I would sand the chips/scratches/dents/whatever out as far as could, prime the damaged area, block it out smooth, double check to make sure its good to go and then shoot it. As long as the chips are toward the front of the hood, I can blend the color in to make sure IF THERE ARE any differences, they will be completely unnoticeable.

Stealth01 wrote:Rock chips, plus the gouge that came in mine from the dealership/previous owner.

Also, chance, do you do a custom match to existing paint, or go straight with a factory mix? Seems like every Black Cherry Mica is a little different...


Ahhhh......black cherry anything SUCKS to match.....

Yes, I color match to existing. I do multiple spray out sheets with a variety of spray patterns and tint the color as needed. We take the factory color mix sheet to start with always though.

Sometimes tinting can take a few days while other work is being completed, we put it under a few different lighting situations such as led, overhead, and sun to try and match as closely as possible.









The biggest thing with a "quote" is that it can change. I don't do quotes, I figure cost of materials, work involved, and time factored for spray time. Basically, I try to get as much info as I can, look at it in person, and then I go from there. If it happens to be something simple, price is going to be lower. It is something involved such as metal work/glaze work price will be dependent on the overall project and material costs. (I don't use bondo by the way, just finishing glazing putty)
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deepSpeedMS3
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Postby deepSpeedMS3 » Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:14

with rock chips in the hood...would you suggest a complete respray of the hood ot can you color-match touch up on the spots....im not an expert on paint so ill ask questions...by the way...where are you out of....(location)??
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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:14

I might have to have you redo my paint haha. Well actually it just needs to be wetsanded again and buffed, maybe some extra clear here and there, and it might need a bit of paint in just a couple spots but I'm not sure. I just got new wide fenders and need those painted too. I have a guy down here that does the work most of the time but the clear is spotty in a couple areas on my front bumper from when he painted it. Also, I'll probably be looking to get my rear fenders flared a little differently now since the front fenders look different (do you do body work like that?) and that will probably need to be sprayed again.
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Postby memphis » Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:14

what would you charge to custom paint interior panels.. such as amp racks and sub box?

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Postby dommo_g » Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:14

Holy wheel lip Baman.

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Chance
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Postby Chance » Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:14

deepSpeedMS3 wrote:with rock chips in the hood...would you suggest a complete respray of the hood ot can you color-match touch up on the spots....im not an expert on paint so ill ask questions...by the way...where are you out of....(location)??


No, that actually just causes more problems down the road. Basically, if you just want to keep them from oxidizing and rusting down the road, yes it will work temporarily, but it will never look good.

Essentially, the best thing you can do to a hood is fresh paint and then clear bra it immediately after color sand and polish.

My cars all get beaten up at the track into walls, other cars, cones, etc. so I have no purpose of wasting the money on it, however it is awesome on a street driven car.

I am out of south denver (Hampden and Sante Fe)

speedjunkie wrote:I might have to have you redo my paint haha. Well actually it just needs to be wetsanded again and buffed, maybe some extra clear here and there, and it might need a bit of paint in just a couple spots but I'm not sure. I just got new wide fenders and need those painted too. I have a guy down here that does the work most of the time but the clear is spotty in a couple areas on my front bumper from when he painted it. Also, I'll probably be looking to get my rear fenders flared a little differently now since the front fenders look different (do you do body work like that?) and that will probably need to be sprayed again.


Wetsand and polish usually I dont like doing unless I was the one who painted the car, however I can do it, it just almost always turns into something you dont want it to.

Essentially, if you need some touch up with full reclear, that would be the way to go. Painting front fenders, and blending into the doors is pretty much perfect paint status.

Doing the rear fenders isn't a problem, but WILL require re-paint to make them look right especially in black. Basically, black sucks and black rocks, the same as white. What white hides on the panel, black shows (waves, inconsistency etc ). What black hides in the color, white REALLY shows (such as gaps, fitment, pinholes etc)

Black is not an expensive color, materials for a full respray would be around $400 for full black, full clear, along with sealer for the fenders. Then whatever labor I see fit for the work needed. FD's take a little while to dis and reassemble but other than that, not a problem.

memphis wrote:what would you charge to custom paint interior panels.. such as amp racks and sub box?


Tell me a color, give me an idea of what it is that needs sprayed.

Accessory stuff isn't a big deal and can usually even be sprayed without a booth, but obviously I will do it in a booth haha.
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Postby bellalyssa » Fri Feb 12, 2010 9:14

From what I was told, I'd need to get my front and rear bumpers completely repainted. The clear coat is cracking on the back and thanks to a little incident (oops) there is a new color on the back bumper now. I have step plates on the back too which I hear makes it harder. The front bumper is damaged near the front fog light thanks to the previous owner. Other shops have told me that they can bondo that but that it would make more sense to buy a new front bumper. I'm also missing some clips for the front bumper so it isn't sitting flush with the rest of the body of the car. The color is titanium grey.

I can send pics if that would help. I'll be down in Denver next Saturday too if it's easier to see it in person.
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Postby speedjunkie » Fri Feb 12, 2010 9:14

Chance wrote:Wetsand and polish usually I dont like doing unless I was the one who painted the car, however I can do it, it just almost always turns into something you dont want it to.

Essentially, if you need some touch up with full reclear, that would be the way to go. Painting front fenders, and blending into the doors is pretty much perfect paint status.

Doing the rear fenders isn't a problem, but WILL require re-paint to make them look right especially in black. Basically, black sucks and black rocks, the same as white. What white hides on the panel, black shows (waves, inconsistency etc ). What black hides in the color, white REALLY shows (such as gaps, fitment, pinholes etc)

Black is not an expensive color, materials for a full respray would be around $400 for full black, full clear, along with sealer for the fenders. Then whatever labor I see fit for the work needed. FD's take a little while to dis and reassemble but other than that, not a problem.


I can get the paint and probably the other supplies, it's actually a Lexus black but I don't remember the code now. Yeah I was torn on whether to go black, white, or do a gunmetal type color. I just had the car painted last summer (was supposed to be done while I was in the desert last year, long story), and they did a horrible job, obviously. They got the door jambs, and although it's not great, I don't want to disassemble anything, nor would I want you to disassemble. Basically just mask off everything. I just replaced all the stock seals and stuff that couldn't be reused from the original set, and some of the stuff will probably break when you remove it and I don't want to buy new stuff again already. It doesn't have to be a perfect job, but I'd like it to look better than what it does now...orange peel and fisheyes all over the place, along with a few fingerprints from people that touched it while the clear was still wet. It's just a shitty job all around, and they overcharged me and didn't have it done when I got back like I wanted. Oh, the engine bay needs to be painted too. I'm sure the rear fenders would need to be done again, considering the way I want them flared compared to the way I have them now. But I discovered last night when I put the second wide front fender on that one is wider than the other, so that's gonna take some time to sort out. Ugh.

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Postby Chance » Fri Feb 12, 2010 9:14

bellalyssa wrote:From what I was told, I'd need to get my front and rear bumpers completely repainted. The clear coat is cracking on the back and thanks to a little incident (oops) there is a new color on the back bumper now. I have step plates on the back too which I hear makes it harder. The front bumper is damaged near the front fog light thanks to the previous owner. Other shops have told me that they can bondo that but that it would make more sense to buy a new front bumper. I'm also missing some clips for the front bumper so it isn't sitting flush with the rest of the body of the car. The color is titanium grey.

I can send pics if that would help. I'll be down in Denver next Saturday too if it's easier to see it in person.


Yes, in person would be much easier for me to gauge what it would take to fix.

Step plate doesn't seem like it would be a big deal? What the fuck were those guys going to charge you for this like $1200 or something?

speedjunkie wrote:I can get the paint and probably the other supplies, it's actually a Lexus black but I don't remember the code now. Yeah I was torn on whether to go black, white, or do a gunmetal type color. I just had the car painted last summer (was supposed to be done while I was in the desert last year, long story), and they did a horrible job, obviously. They got the door jambs, and although it's not great, I don't want to disassemble anything, nor would I want you to disassemble. Basically just mask off everything. I just replaced all the stock seals and stuff that couldn't be reused from the original set, and some of the stuff will probably break when you remove it and I don't want to buy new stuff again already. It doesn't have to be a perfect job, but I'd like it to look better than what it does now...orange peel and fisheyes all over the place, along with a few fingerprints from people that touched it while the clear was still wet. It's just a shitty job all around, and they overcharged me and didn't have it done when I got back like I wanted. Oh, the engine bay needs to be painted too. I'm sure the rear fenders would need to be done again, considering the way I want them flared compared to the way I have them now. But I discovered last night when I put the second wide front fender on that one is wider than the other, so that's gonna take some time to sort out. Ugh.


Can you get me pictures of how the fenders sit on the car? Also, who did you get them from?

When I say disassemble, I mean some seals HAVE to get pulled in order to ensure a proper paint job. Hard seals obviously not, but soft seals almost all of them will have to be pulled back. Dont worry, I have done PLENTY of FD's include my own several times haha
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Postby speedjunkie » Fri Feb 12, 2010 9:14

Are you talking about the front fenders? I'm talking to the guy about them already. He's taking measurements. I got them from Shine Auto Project. I got the body kit and diffuser from them too. All their stuff fits great, I mean like OEM great, it's just that this time the fenders are different widths, just a tad. If you want to see what the rear fenders look like, I can post a link to my build thread. I'll want the rears to look more like the fronts, bubbled instead of a definite lip. It just doesn't look right with the wide front fenders.

Well I'm just saying, no jambs or anything need to be painted, so which soft seals are you talking about? Unless you're still talking about doing the jambs. And actually, if it's just clear, that shouldn't be needed anyway right? I don't doubt your skills, I'm just trying to keep it as cheap as possible haha.
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