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SpeedRacer
- Posts: 5030
- Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:14
- Location: Aurora
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wow well then his numbers really weren't that bad.
Heavy duty adjustable dog leashes
http://www.TitanTuff.com
http://www.TitanTuff.com
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arctic_blue83
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Revolutions Performance @ Mar 1 2008, 01:51 AM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=29248]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>
So, uncorrected, his car made about 136whp or so stock, and around 144whp with the AP flash?
Drac9 over on AWDPirates said 07 STI's usually put down around 205-210whp and that 04-06 STI's put down around 215-225whp . With that said, if you guys use a half correction factor for turbo cars, using approx 1.13 CF (I know it can vary slightly), a stock STI 2004-2006 would put down around 191-199whp uncorrected, an '07 STI around 182-186 uncorrected, and a WRX around 138whp uncorrected?
Link to info on AWDpirates, Drac9's post about 04-06 STI's on second page (still in shock that 04-06 STI's make more power than 07's on Revolution's dyno)-
http://www.awdpirates.net/forums/viewtopic...=39&t=28616
So really, if Tim's RX-8 is putting down uncorrected numbers similar to a WRX's numbers uncorrected, I would say those are pretty damn good numbers, considering the WRX having an advantage at altitude due to forced induction. Was that 155whp corrected on a 2.0L or 2.5L WRX, or do they both put down around the same power?
Someone with a Mazdaspeed 3/6 needs to make a trip down to their dyno, as I'm curious to see how the Mazdaspeed cars stack up.
Those numbers were using a full standard SAE CF of 1.26 today. A stock wrx on our standard half CF for turbo cars makes about 155whp and a stock sti makes 215whp.[/b]
So, uncorrected, his car made about 136whp or so stock, and around 144whp with the AP flash?
Drac9 over on AWDPirates said 07 STI's usually put down around 205-210whp and that 04-06 STI's put down around 215-225whp . With that said, if you guys use a half correction factor for turbo cars, using approx 1.13 CF (I know it can vary slightly), a stock STI 2004-2006 would put down around 191-199whp uncorrected, an '07 STI around 182-186 uncorrected, and a WRX around 138whp uncorrected?
Link to info on AWDpirates, Drac9's post about 04-06 STI's on second page (still in shock that 04-06 STI's make more power than 07's on Revolution's dyno)-
http://www.awdpirates.net/forums/viewtopic...=39&t=28616
So really, if Tim's RX-8 is putting down uncorrected numbers similar to a WRX's numbers uncorrected, I would say those are pretty damn good numbers, considering the WRX having an advantage at altitude due to forced induction. Was that 155whp corrected on a 2.0L or 2.5L WRX, or do they both put down around the same power?
Someone with a Mazdaspeed 3/6 needs to make a trip down to their dyno, as I'm curious to see how the Mazdaspeed cars stack up.
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Those Meddling Kids
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arctic_blue83
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Revolutions Performance @ Mar 1 2008, 09:28 AM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=29285]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>
Holy shit! I'm assuming the car wasn't close to stock? I used to own a Speed6, I know on MAC's dyno, I've seen a ton of both Speed6's & STI's, most of the stock Speed6's I saw put down around 220-230whp corrected, and STI's anywhere from 260-280whp corrected. Granted the numbers themselves were using a full correction factor, so highly overrated for a turbo car, but still a sizable gap. Do you know what that Speed6 had done to it?
I tested a speed 6 a while ago- I'll try to find the graph but I think it was around 240whp[/b]
Holy shit! I'm assuming the car wasn't close to stock? I used to own a Speed6, I know on MAC's dyno, I've seen a ton of both Speed6's & STI's, most of the stock Speed6's I saw put down around 220-230whp corrected, and STI's anywhere from 260-280whp corrected. Granted the numbers themselves were using a full correction factor, so highly overrated for a turbo car, but still a sizable gap. Do you know what that Speed6 had done to it?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (arctic_blue83 @ Mar 1 2008, 09:25 AM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=29284]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>
There's about 15-20 of us that will be going down there next Saturday to Dyno so we'll have all kinds of numbers available.
I'm also looking forward to seeing what our Speed3's pull stock and modded.
Nice gains Tim!
Someone with a Mazdaspeed 3/6 needs to make a trip down to their dyno, as I'm curious to see how the Mazdaspeed cars stack up.[/b]
There's about 15-20 of us that will be going down there next Saturday to Dyno so we'll have all kinds of numbers available.
I'm also looking forward to seeing what our Speed3's pull stock and modded.Nice gains Tim!
2007 Mazdaspeed3 Sport</span>
-Mazdaspeed Short Ram Intake
-HKS SSQV Bov
-Tein S-Tech Springs
-225/40/18 Nitto Neo Gen Tires on RX-8 Wheels
<span style="color:#FF0000">http://www.JTuned.com
-Mazdaspeed Short Ram Intake
-HKS SSQV Bov
-Tein S-Tech Springs
-225/40/18 Nitto Neo Gen Tires on RX-8 Wheels
<span style="color:#FF0000">http://www.JTuned.com
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Huzer21
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arctic_blue83
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Huzer21 @ Mar 1 2008, 05:51 PM) [url=index.php?act=findpost&pid=29328]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/url]</div>
How much more would you be looking to open it up? On most NA cars, obviously, the first mods are typically breathing mods. Pretty basic recipe for making a few more ponies:
Freer flowing intake:
-A SRI or CAI. Basically just a freer flowing conical filter, on piping that's sized appropriately for your application. Before bolting one on though, keep in mind, changing the diameter of the MAF housing can/will alter your fuel trim, and considering your car isn't exactly running rich anymore, it's something worth noting.
Freer flowing exhaust:
-Exhaust manifold. Usually most people go with a tubular manifold, with equal length runners.
-Knock out the cat(s). Cats restrict exhaust flow... kind of common sense, remove restriction and allow exhaust to flow to a greater extent.
-Cat-back. Typically, most late model cars don't have very restrictive cat-backs, which is why I would suggest a cat-back as your last exhaust mod. Might as well knock out the more restrictive portions of the exhaust (cats & header(s) usually) before replacing your cat-back. Keep in mind piping diameter, and overall design, as it's possible to lose a bit of torque when going with an exhaust that's too large for your application.
Pulleys:
-Crank and possibly accessory pulleys. It won't necessarily "make" anymore power per se, but it will help the motor rev a little faster, helping to "free up" a couple extra ponies that would normally would be soaked up through parasitic loss. As a side note, many people have reported having problems with high power stereos using accessory pulleys, something to keep in mind.
^^^At this point, I would recommend a good Protune now that you have an AP. You're probably not going to see much out of the bolt-ons without tuning the car for them. It's also a good idea to tune, just to make sure you're running safe AFR's after modding, who knows, maybe you can even advance timing another degree or 2 to make a few more ponies while you're there.
If you still need more power... well, at that point, it might be a good idea just to go with a good forced induction kit, but if you insist on staying NA, here's what I would recommend:
-If anyone makes a well designed intake manifold, you might be able to squeeze out a few ponies there.
-Boring out your throttle body might see very miniscule gains.
-Using a light weight clutch/flywheel combo would help the car rev faster, as well as help with rev matching on track days/spirited driving.
At that point, if you're still not satisfied, and still insist on staying NA... well, since it's not a piston motor, can't add lift/duration via cams, as there's no cams... head/valvetrain work is out, as there's no valvetrain lol... you could swap the actual rotors themselves I'm sure, to run higher compression, typically, for every 1 point bump in compression you run, expect to see about an extra 4% increase in power, although swapping rotors would probably be pricey, and since your car is already pushing 10:1 compression, bumping it much beyond 11.5:1 or so might be pushing your limits running 91 octane piss water. You could also send your motor in for a full port job, but again, pretty pricey for the gains you'll see. Also, since it's a rotary, can't swap rods/crank or bore it to up displacement... at that point, I would say aside from tuning it for your specific setup, you would probably be pretty much tapped out in NA form.
From there, lies the world of forced induction.... turbos, superchargers and nitrous systems... pick your poison lol.
Thanks, I was happy with the initial results. I'm curious to see if there will be any further tinkering on Cobb's end. And...what else I'll need to do to open it up just a little more. This is kinda fun...and dangerous.[/b]
How much more would you be looking to open it up? On most NA cars, obviously, the first mods are typically breathing mods. Pretty basic recipe for making a few more ponies:
Freer flowing intake:
-A SRI or CAI. Basically just a freer flowing conical filter, on piping that's sized appropriately for your application. Before bolting one on though, keep in mind, changing the diameter of the MAF housing can/will alter your fuel trim, and considering your car isn't exactly running rich anymore, it's something worth noting.
Freer flowing exhaust:
-Exhaust manifold. Usually most people go with a tubular manifold, with equal length runners.
-Knock out the cat(s). Cats restrict exhaust flow... kind of common sense, remove restriction and allow exhaust to flow to a greater extent.
-Cat-back. Typically, most late model cars don't have very restrictive cat-backs, which is why I would suggest a cat-back as your last exhaust mod. Might as well knock out the more restrictive portions of the exhaust (cats & header(s) usually) before replacing your cat-back. Keep in mind piping diameter, and overall design, as it's possible to lose a bit of torque when going with an exhaust that's too large for your application.
Pulleys:
-Crank and possibly accessory pulleys. It won't necessarily "make" anymore power per se, but it will help the motor rev a little faster, helping to "free up" a couple extra ponies that would normally would be soaked up through parasitic loss. As a side note, many people have reported having problems with high power stereos using accessory pulleys, something to keep in mind.
^^^At this point, I would recommend a good Protune now that you have an AP. You're probably not going to see much out of the bolt-ons without tuning the car for them. It's also a good idea to tune, just to make sure you're running safe AFR's after modding, who knows, maybe you can even advance timing another degree or 2 to make a few more ponies while you're there.
If you still need more power... well, at that point, it might be a good idea just to go with a good forced induction kit, but if you insist on staying NA, here's what I would recommend:
-If anyone makes a well designed intake manifold, you might be able to squeeze out a few ponies there.
-Boring out your throttle body might see very miniscule gains.
-Using a light weight clutch/flywheel combo would help the car rev faster, as well as help with rev matching on track days/spirited driving.
At that point, if you're still not satisfied, and still insist on staying NA... well, since it's not a piston motor, can't add lift/duration via cams, as there's no cams... head/valvetrain work is out, as there's no valvetrain lol... you could swap the actual rotors themselves I'm sure, to run higher compression, typically, for every 1 point bump in compression you run, expect to see about an extra 4% increase in power, although swapping rotors would probably be pricey, and since your car is already pushing 10:1 compression, bumping it much beyond 11.5:1 or so might be pushing your limits running 91 octane piss water. You could also send your motor in for a full port job, but again, pretty pricey for the gains you'll see. Also, since it's a rotary, can't swap rods/crank or bore it to up displacement... at that point, I would say aside from tuning it for your specific setup, you would probably be pretty much tapped out in NA form.
From there, lies the world of forced induction.... turbos, superchargers and nitrous systems... pick your poison lol.
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Huzer21
At this point, I haven't heard good results for any Air Intake for the RX-8. The best ones I've heard of thus far are the RB and the HKS. In general, an intake swap tends to be a "noise" mod. Same seems to be true with a cat-back, although mated with a good midpipe or high flow cat, there are gains to be found there.
Manifolds/headers. RB is still working on a header, and that may be ready by summer. Rotary Performance has a high flow cat that I may be going with down the road.
I know if I'm looking for large power, it'll have to go FI.
Manifolds/headers. RB is still working on a header, and that may be ready by summer. Rotary Performance has a high flow cat that I may be going with down the road.
I know if I'm looking for large power, it'll have to go FI.
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Huzer21
And, that's all she wrote. I guess testing is complete for me. I asked the folks at Cobb what if there was anything else to be done (since the AP has now been officially released) and they stated to keep the AP updated with new calibrations/firmware updates from the Cobb website. Now I kinda wish I wasn't oncall this week so I could go down to RP with everyone. I'd like to see what a week of driving cycles has done.
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Huzer21
I wasn't supposed to be, I was supposed to be oncall next week. But they pulled someone out of the rotation last Monday, and surprise! I'm oncall. I really do wish I could make it back down as I'd like to get on the dyno again. Hopefully we can get a bunch of people to come out to the Auto Show at the end of the month.
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