My 1974 REPU Project

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Shadowden
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Re: My 1974 REPU Project

Postby Shadowden » Thu Feb 02, 2017 9:14

Looks really good. I like all the open space on the engine bay!

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chickenwafer
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Re: My 1974 REPU Project

Postby chickenwafer » Fri Feb 03, 2017 9:14

Thanks man!

Spent last night fishing the Haltech wiring harness through the firewall which wasn't too difficult. I'm now waiting to find a spot to mount the Haltech relay/fuse block and the ECU itself until I cut the new hole in the floor for the shifter. With the new FD 5 speed trans the shifter is further back.

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chickenwafer
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Re: My 1974 REPU Project

Postby chickenwafer » Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:14

Had some time last night to knock out a few little projects

First was I cut a hole in the floor for the new shifter location. The FD trans is longer and puts the shifter hole a couple inches further back than the stock REPU location.

First, I measured and used a Sharpie to draw out a location:

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My biggest fear was the throwing sparks would cause a fire so I had a cup of water on hand in case haha

Shifter is in!

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Pretty scary how easy the thin metal was to cut. Doesn't make me feel safe LOL.

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speedjunkie
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Re: My 1974 REPU Project

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:14

Wow, I had no idea it was that far back. I figured you'd just have to extend the hole a little bit.

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chickenwafer
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Re: My 1974 REPU Project

Postby chickenwafer » Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:14

Yeah, it's about 4-6 inches further back but not bad. I now need to fabricate a patch for the original shifter location as well as something to seal around the new hole I cut.

I now feel like I'm in the home stretch with stuff for the truck. Just lots and lots of little things to finish. Lots of little parts to purchase. My main concern right now, besides the side mount alt and belt clearance, is the charge piping and exhaust. The way the stock pipes line up is going to make the charge piping extremely tight to the radiator. The exhaust is also, as I thought, going to be tight. The front suspension is right in the way of the downpipe exit. I'm not a fabricator by any means so I may need to have someone make the charge piping and exhaust, we'll see.

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Shadowden
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Re: My 1974 REPU Project

Postby Shadowden » Mon Feb 06, 2017 9:14

I can't see pictures, did you use the existing hole as a template to cut the new hole further back? If so, seems most of your patch piece is done. A jig saw with a bimetal blade seems like a good way to cut that without sparks unless the blade could hit some vitals underneath that you could miss with a cutoff wheel.

I've been watching the fabricator series on youtube and that guy "gets strong" with snips a ton.

vierte
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Re: My 1974 REPU Project

Postby vierte » Mon Feb 06, 2017 9:14

Are you going to extend the shift lever or keep it short? An extended shift lever came in the vert.. and it was about the most unwieldy thing I ever tried to drive with. I've driven tractors that were easier to shift.

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RX-7 Chris
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Re: My 1974 REPU Project

Postby RX-7 Chris » Tue Feb 07, 2017 9:14

You may be able to move that shifter position forward instead of leaving it in the FD position. They do it with the TII tranny.
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Shadowden
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Re: My 1974 REPU Project

Postby Shadowden » Tue Feb 07, 2017 9:14

Nice work on the relocation of the shifter. When you seal the other hole are you planning on welding it so that it disappears or using a bigger piece of metal, sealing it, and riveting it in place?

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chickenwafer
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Re: My 1974 REPU Project

Postby chickenwafer » Tue Feb 07, 2017 9:14

vierte wrote:Are you going to extend the shift lever or keep it short? An extended shift lever came in the vert.. and it was about the most unwieldy thing I ever tried to drive with. I've driven tractors that were easier to shift.


I'm extending it, I think it will be too low of a reach otherwise. The stock REPU shifter is like 2.5 feet long, no joke, but this one won't be. I ordered a "JDM Hella tyte YOY!" ebay shifter extension and knob so hopefully gets it in a better spot.

RX-7 Chris wrote:You may be able to move that shifter position forward instead of leaving it in the FD position. They do it with the TII tranny.


The FD transmissions doesn't have a separate tail housing like the FC Turbo2 trans, so it can't be shortened. Realistically it's not big deal, hole is already cut LOL. Now just need to get a custom driveshaft.

Shadowden wrote:Nice work on the relocation of the shifter. When you seal the other hole are you planning on welding it so that it disappears or using a bigger piece of metal, sealing it, and riveting it in place?


I don't have a welder, and the metal is pretty thin anyways, so I'm planning on just sealing it with some aero grade adhesive and rivets. Same way I plan on patching the large rust hole in the passenger floorpan (welding over there would be impossible because of the rusty metal).

Shadowden wrote:I can't see pictures, did you use the existing hole as a template to cut the new hole further back? If so, seems most of your patch piece is done. A jig saw with a bimetal blade seems like a good way to cut that without sparks unless the blade could hit some vitals underneath that you could miss with a cutoff wheel.

I've been watching the fabricator series on youtube and that guy "gets strong" with snips a ton.


The existing hole and new hole are two different shapes, mostly because the cab floor starts to bump up and I couldn't cut it any further back. But I didn't need to anyways. So the new piece will just be a simple flat piece of metal riveted and sealed in place.


Got my tax rebate today so I ordered a GRIP of parts (don't tell the wife LOL!) so much progress will be happening soon!

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Shadowden
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Re: My 1974 REPU Project

Postby Shadowden » Wed Feb 08, 2017 9:14

I'd be willing to help with welding if you want to give it a shot. Rusty metal will need removed to fix it properly anyway.

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chickenwafer
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Re: My 1974 REPU Project

Postby chickenwafer » Wed Feb 08, 2017 9:14

Shadowden wrote:I'd be willing to help with welding if you want to give it a shot. Rusty metal will need removed to fix it properly anyway.


That's cool man, appreciate it! I've used a welder a few times, I just don't own one anymore. I know the rust will need to be cut out, but it might be kinda difficult as some of it goes past flat surfaces so I'd have to recreate some 3D surfaces. We'll see. Most stuff I've read online says to just use adhesive to make the repair easier. IDK.

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chickenwafer
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Re: My 1974 REPU Project

Postby chickenwafer » Fri Feb 17, 2017 9:14

So some big updates as parts are rolling in and plans are changing (imagine that!)

First I got a shifter extension for the manual gearbox and shift knob. I'm not sure if I'll keep the shifter extension piece as it puts the shift knob really high but I haven't tested it out with the seats installed yet so we'll see. It also makes the shifter feel like a truck gearbox with huge throws and vague feel LOL

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I also got in the Davies Craig electric water pump and digital controller kit. Got this straight from Australia and saved a bunch of coin, even with shipping costs, compared to if I bought it here in the US. I'm really pretty impressed with the quality of the kit and the aluminum pump and controller. Should work great.

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I also got the LS1 ignition coils and ICT Billet bracket in. I assembled the bracket and coils and found a great spot to mount the bracket:

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The aluminum 3" radiator and aluminum oil cooler also came in so I got those installed. The oil cooler mounts to the bottom of the radiator, like it does stock, but these being "universal" pieces despite being sold as RX2/3/4 parts, they required some massaging. I had to drill out the mounting tabs on the new oil cooler to fit the OE brackets and then bend the brackets and flip them reverse to mount to the radiator. The new radiators mounting bracket wasn't drilled so you can position it just so, so I measured and drilled them out and then mounted it in. Everything fits pretty good with the exception of the lower oil cooler 10AN fitting that is super close to the engine subframe bracket. I'm hoping a tight 90* fitting will clear it.

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And lastly, if you've kept reading, the REPU is going in a slightly new direction...

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I'm ditching the stock twins for a big single. A Borg Warner S366 to be exact. Compared to non seq twins, this turbo will have roughly the same boost response/threshold as non seq twins, but is capable of far more power; around 600-700rwhp on a 13B. My fuel system is currently limited to around 415rwhp but this will be changed in the future.

:7d056312:

vierte
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Re: My 1974 REPU Project

Postby vierte » Fri Feb 17, 2017 9:14

How much power do you think you'll shoot for? Are you considering dowling or studding the motor to handle it?

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chickenwafer
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Re: My 1974 REPU Project

Postby chickenwafer » Sun Feb 19, 2017 9:14

vierte wrote:How much power do you think you'll shoot for? Are you considering dowling or studding the motor to handle it?


Right now I'm extremely fuel system limited with stock 550cc primaries and bored out 1300cc secondaries, giving me only enough fuel for a generous calculation of 400rwhp at 90-95% duty cycle (maxed) and I only have a single Walbro pump.

So for now I plan on running 12psi and making 350-380rwhp. The engine is a stock JDM eBay motor with stock porting and seals (verified with my bore scope) so my max power will be somewhat limited.

Future/eventual goals would be to increase the fuel system capacity with an external surge tank and twin 044 pumps (or single large pump) and 1000 or 1300cc EV14 top feed primaries with 2200cc secondaries and possible the Xcessive LIM for 4 more injectors but I won't realistically need it because 2x1000cc primaries and 2x2200cc secondaries is enough for over 700rwhp, but the Xcessive flows air better.

I'd say at this point I'd like to get to 550rwhp or crest 600rwhp. My main reason is there is another 13B-REW single turbo swapped REPU that is kinda well known (just YouTube turbo REPU there's a lot of videos) owned by Kevin and his highest dyno was 548rwhp. I'd like to beat that LOL.

When this eBay motor lets go, I'm thinking of doing a half bridge, balanced rotating assembly for 9500rpm, studs, and some oiling mods but that's probably it. My S366 snail also has a 0.91A/R turbine housing so that will hold back max power as well, I'll probably have to swap that for a 1.15A/R at some point to sacrifice spool for top end.


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