FDEEZ's Build Thread

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FDEEZ
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Re: FDEEZ's Build Thread

Postby FDEEZ » Sun Oct 11, 2015 9:14

I thought I would try a different method to bleeding my Rx7's hydraulics. I've tried the cheapo Mityvac method of pulling vacuum from the master cylinders, a more expensive method of pushing fluid from the end device (e.g. caliper & clutch slave cylinder) to the master cylinder(s) using a Phoenix reverse bleeder, and an even more expensive Mitivac method of pulling fluid from the end device. Some of those are here:
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I've had little success with each. In the end, I've always resorted to bench bleeding and the the tried/true method of pumping the clutch or brake pedal and then opening up the bleeder valves. The problem with this method is that if there's air bubbles trapped in the system...they may not always come out using this method. Additionally, when performing this method as a 1-person job, you'd have to get quite creative...and it can become quite cumbersome as well. Since I have abs, bleeding my brakes is almost impossible as a 1-person job. For this go-around, I thought I would try pressure bleeding my abs. With pressure bleeding, a constant psi is maintained to keep the abs happy and all fluid is pushed through the system. So if there's air bubbles...they're coming out.

Decided to try a diaphragm-type bleeder. It's a tad overkill since this thing can hold 4 gallons of hydraulic fluid, lol:
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....combined with some Power Probe adapters:
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Of course I had to modify it a bit to fit my preference. Added a few things on the air inlet side to extend the brass tube, add a ball valve, and add a 1/4" air coupling to connect to my compressor. It originally came with a valve stem that was tucked under the tank...making it hard to reach. Had to fix that...so here's my modified version:
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On the fluid side, added a few fittings to add a 1/4" hose to allow better visibility when bleeding the Gear Wrench tank:
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After bleeding the tank of all air/bubbles, this is how it looks like connected to the brake master cylinder:
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Within a few minutes of bleeding each caliper at 35 psi of constant pressure, my bleeder bottle filled up in no time:
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Overall, I'm very satisfied with these products. I'm not sure if it's because I'm still running abs that I've had such a difficult time bleeding my brakes in the past...but this definitely solves the problem. I can't wait to try & bleed my clutch (though at 10-15 psi). I highly recommend this bleeder if you're having to bleed your hydraulics by yourself.

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speedjunkie
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Re: FDEEZ's Build Thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Oct 11, 2015 9:14

My ABS was a huge PITA to bleed, which is the main reason I left it out. When I was doing normal bleeding, say after swapping brake pads or something else local to the brake rotors and calipers, I didn't have much of a problem.

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RX-7 Chris
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Re: FDEEZ's Build Thread

Postby RX-7 Chris » Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:14

What did that final brake bleeding setup end up costing?
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]

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FDEEZ
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Re: FDEEZ's Build Thread

Postby FDEEZ » Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:14

Had some free time today...so i bled my clutch with this new bleeder setup. All I have to say is WOW! After several bubbles exiting my slave cylinder, my clutch pedal is now rock solid. My clutch engagement is completely different as well. I don't think my pedal has been this firm in a while. The sad part is that it took me about 15 seconds of opening up the bleeder valve (as opposed to the 30+ min it typically took me by myself).

RX-7 Chris wrote:What did that final brake bleeding setup end up costing?

A couple hundred. But I also could have saved myself a couple hundred and a boatload of frustration if I would have bought this setup from the get-go.

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Saul_Good
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Re: FDEEZ's Build Thread

Postby Saul_Good » Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:14

I've been using a one-way bleeder for the past 7 years. When I had ABS I would bleed with the car turned on. I even used this same method/tool for the clutch. Never had an issue and track approved :P

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speedjunkie
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Re: FDEEZ's Build Thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:14

Links? Lol

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Saul_Good
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Re: FDEEZ's Build Thread

Postby Saul_Good » Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:14

speedjunkie wrote:Links? Lol


This is not the exact one, but pretty close to it. Basically a one-way check valve and some hose.
Image

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speedjunkie
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Re: FDEEZ's Build Thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:14

Well I mean for the whole assembly. I have speed bleeders that I'm about to install, but if this is faster and easier, I'll do this.

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Re: FDEEZ's Build Thread

Postby RX-7 Chris » Tue Oct 13, 2015 9:14

FDEEZ wrote:A couple hundred. But I also could have saved myself a couple hundred and a boatload of frustration if I would have bought this setup from the get-go.

That really isn't bad. I just had the brakes in my Wife's car flushed and it cost about $120.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]

My Car Blog

FDEEZ
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Re: FDEEZ's Build Thread

Postby FDEEZ » Sat Jan 02, 2016 9:14

After a brief encounter with a black FD a few months ago, my idle has been hovering around 1,500rpm. If you've heard my car in person, then you'll know that a 1,500rpm is no bueno (decibel-wise). With how cold & snowy its been as well as how busy I've been at work, I've lost interest in the car (as I typically do) and just left her parked in the garage. However, with a short holiday break, I gained some renewed energy to work on the car.

My first thought was a vacuum leak. So after a quick glance at all my vacuum hoses, one of them had a huge gash in it. After replacing it, my idle didn't improve at at all. So I ended up replacing all my vacuum hoses, boots, check valves, PCV valve, IAC motor, etc (which all were old & appeared in poor condition). Unfortunately, none of that worked...still high idle.

After a close inspection of my intake manifold, it was showing a slight oil leak. So I went ahead and rebuilt the 3-piece manifold and all of its associated millions of gaskets. When it was apart, I couldn't believe how many leaks that thing had! Rebuilding it wasn't that bad:

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If you ever think about using RTV sealant, I highly recommend you consider Permatex 85420 Permashield. It's basically Hylomar Universal Blue...in other words, it's good stuff. I used it to seal parts of my intake manifold.

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After buttoning everything up & letting everything cure, I took the car out around the block. Unfortunately, it still idle'd high. Frustrated, I did notice that during this troubleshooting process, dirt started accumulating on the side of my car indicating that I drove over water. Although it wasn't raining that night this all started, I assume that night I must have sucked in some water in my intake...thus dorking up my MAF. After thoroughly cleaning my MAF with some CRC cleaner...the car is back to its lumpy 1,000rpm idle....FINALLY! Overall, I'm happy. Everything I replaced was either broken or on its way out...so I have no regrets there. And with all my vacuum leaks (which I didn't know I had) sealed up, my butt-dyno says the car feels stronger.

I'm not sure I want to repeat this process again...so now I'm highly considering switching to a Speed Density tune to remove my GM LS7 MAF. In the meantime, I'm now reading a bunch of EFI tuning books; hopefully problems like this will be more obvious to diagnose by simply looking at log files. Besides...committing time to learning how to tune is WAYYY overdue.

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Saul_Good
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Re: FDEEZ's Build Thread

Postby Saul_Good » Sat Jan 02, 2016 9:14

Glad that all worked out. I felt like quitting from reading this :P Those pesky MAFs I tell you!.....

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speedjunkie
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Re: FDEEZ's Build Thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Jan 03, 2016 9:14

Saul_Good wrote:Glad that all worked out. I felt like quitting from reading this :P Those pesky MAFs I tell you!.....


Agreed, I'd have gotten way too frustrated after the first set of potential fixes lol.

Glad you got it worked out though. Which black FD and what kind of encounter? lol I'm thinking someone told me about seeing you a while back. Andy maybe?

FDEEZ
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Re: FDEEZ's Build Thread

Postby FDEEZ » Sun Jan 03, 2016 9:14

Saul_Good wrote:Glad that all worked out. I felt like quitting from reading this :P Those pesky MAFs I tell you!.....

Thanks! Sometimes the good 'ol trial & error does the trick.

speedjunkie wrote: Which black FD...

I'm terrible with names. It's the one with with the volk wheels, Mazdaspeed hood, and wastegate that exits out the hood. It's a nice looking, great sounding, fire-breathing car.

speedjunkie wrote: ....what kind of encounter?

It was just a quick "comparison" of his high-boost/race-gas setup with my "stock'ish" car :-)

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speedjunkie
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Re: FDEEZ's Build Thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Jan 04, 2016 9:14

FDEEZ wrote:I'm terrible with names. It's the one with with the volk wheels, Mazdaspeed hood, and wastegate that exits out the hood. It's a nice looking, great sounding, fire-breathing car.


Oh that's Chase. I keep forgetting about him lol.

FDEEZ wrote:It was just a quick "comparison" of his high-boost/race-gas setup with my "stock'ish" car :-)


Ah, I figured that's what it was lol.

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Re: FDEEZ's Build Thread

Postby FDEEZ » Sun Mar 20, 2016 9:14

In brightest day, in blackest night, no evil shall escape my sight :D After weeks of working on/off with the car, I finally completed my headlight project over the weekend.

Since I rarely drive my FD at night, I've tolerated the OEM headlights for a while. And if you've ever rode in a stock FD at night, then you'll know that the stock lights just barely illuminate the road...and I mean barely. But in an effort to modernize the vehicle, I had to ditch those lights.

I thought I would try some ebay crystal lights here:
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But these "DOT SAE" approved headlights definitely do NOThave a US spec beam pattern. Oh well, they were under $100...so no biggie.
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So I went ahead and bought a pair of FX-R 3" round bi-xenon projectors to stick inside that ebay junk. Here's a quick comparo on the extreme size difference of the huge projectors vs the headlight housing.
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To power up the projectors, I bought a pair of quality OEM ballasts:
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So in the oven the headlights go:
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After quite a bit of persuasion, here's one projector mounted inside a headlight (w/ a Mercedes Benz E55 AMG style shroud):
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Since I didn't like the look of the chrome & safety of the un-potted ballasts, I painted the headlights black & plasti-dipped the ballasts. Here they are all sealed up with new butyl rubber.
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Here they are installed:
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And here's the ridiculous amount of light these projectors put out in low-beam mode:
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This was in an unlit road (low-beams):
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I have about $500 invested in this project. It's definitely nowhere near the $1,195 price of the SakeBomb headlights, but if SB uses FX-R projectors, I think the price is worth it. From doing this project, there's a lot of fabrication involved in getting those huge freakin FX-Rs installed and time invested in ensuring they're mounted/aimed correctly. If SB using mini D2S, then I say retrofit the projectors yourself. Mini D2S projectors would take about 15 minutes to retrofit on ebay headlights.

Few notes:
- You WILL have to "clearance" your headlight retractor buckets to accept the retrofitted headlights.
- Those headlight retractor buckets are fiberglass. So when you cut into them, wear protective long sleeves. I was itchy for at least 3 days (I thought they were molded plastic that I was cutting into).
- FX-Rs come in two sizes: 2.5" & 3" projectors. There is no difference in light output. You may have an easier time using 2.5" projectors as space is limited in FD headlights. Personally, I think the 3" projectors fill out the headlights better & look more factory in an FD.
- Invest in quality ballasts. Those OEM ballasts I'm using allows the beams to reach full brightness in about 3 seconds...not bad at all.

Overall, I'm extremely satisfied with the results. In addition to illuminating everything in front of you, there's a thick purple cutoff on the beams (my projectors are modified to add this); so that adds a lot of personality to the setup.

Unfortunately, I don't think I'll ever attempt this again though. There's way too much work :)


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