Build thread

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Shadowden
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Re: Build thread

Postby Shadowden » Fri Dec 30, 2016 9:14

Ever thought about a bolt with a crush washers instead of the set screw? Not sure that is possible but thought it was worth considering.

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Dwduc
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Re: Build thread

Postby Dwduc » Fri Dec 30, 2016 9:14

Shadowden wrote:Ever thought about a bolt with a crush washers instead of the set screw? Not sure that is possible but thought it was worth considering.


I was thinking the same thing. A screw with a Stat-o-seal would make that leak go away.

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Fri Dec 30, 2016 9:14

No I hadn't, but I've thought about having it welded shut completely lol.

I drove the car again today and some had seeped out of that set screw again. And this is after cranking it down as hard as I could last night. I never had this much trouble with the last one.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sat Jan 07, 2017 9:14

This isn't about the car, but I finally found a Pelican case on Craigslist that was about the size I needed. Turns out it was exactly what I needed, and for little more than half price. I cleaned it, cut the foam and put the compression tester kit in it. I cut extra holes for the extra sensors I bought today so I can test anything from a one rotor to a four rotor engine, testing all housings at the same time. Unfortunately Rotary Diagnostics is closing it's doors sometime this year, so I'm not sure if I'll ever have support if something goes wrong, but hopefully I won't need it.
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I put all the cables in the bottom layer.
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Then put everything else in the top layer.
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I could probably even fit the laptop in here too. I want to find the egg crate foam that goes in the lid too.
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There is another style compression tester out there right now that's easier to use but doesn't give as much info. I think I'll get one of those too and put it in this case also. That way I'll have something for faster tests, and something for more information if needed.

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:14

I got the other two sensors today so now I have a complete compression tester kit for 1 to 4 rotor engines.

I called Snow Performance yesterday to get an update on the Stage 4 kit. They said it will be released in March and they didn't have an idea for a price, although they told me in November that it would be released the first part of the year (I was thinking January, but whatever) and that it would cost around $500. I really can't see it being $500 though because the Stage 3 kit is over $800 and the Stage 4 is supposed to be more advanced. So I'm thinking about just getting a Stage 2 kit which is around $500. It's not as advanced but I haven't tuned the water injection system for power anyway so I don't think it really matters, and at this point I think I'd rather keep it simple. Although if I got the Stage 4 kit I would be able to tune for power if I ever wanted to. Maybe I'm just being impatient lol. I really would rather knock out this swap as soon as possible.

Sunday I drove the car down to Adriano's shop, I've been talking to him about doing the strut bar and wing. I started thinking about milling down the mating surfaces on the UIM and LIM, but I need about 8mm taken off and I remembered today that I can't do it because my UIM barely clears my ignition coils as it is. Not only that, I'd have to do something with the fuel pressure regulator because it's almost touching the alternator as it is. Then I remembered that I used to use spacers on the strut bar mounts but I can't find them and I don't think they're thick enough anyway. Adriano was talking about using a bar with heim joint ends so they can be adjusted, like the stock strut bar, but reusing the mounts that I'm already using, and then adding the pieces to attach to the firewall. I was thinking about maybe just getting a stock strut bar to use and come up with something similar for the other two pieces. For the wing, he's talking about using a bash bar to support the rear bumper cover and getting rid of the stock stuff completely. I'm not sure what to do on that.

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Jan 15, 2017 9:14

Thursday afternoon I got a call from Timberline saying they had the seats partially done and were ready for me to try them. I wasn't able to put them in the car but just sitting in them to see how low I could sit with the foam they had it looks like it'll work. The seats still grip me pretty tight and I feel like I sit pretty low. I also asked them to make sure there was a hole in the bottom foam so I could put the straps for the 6 point harness through. I was thinking about getting the seat belt holder for these but decided against it. I'm not sure if I mentioned it before but Ray only has half the holder so it's kind of pointless to get them new, and the guy on Facebook wanted $100 for them and I'm just not sure if they're worth it considering how little they do. I will say I'm pretty happy with the material I chose for the seat.

I'm still a little concerned that the fiberglass bottom structure won't hold up to stresses on the track, but I have an idea for that. I might try to make a bottom part from thick aluminum plate at some point using the stock part as a guide, and still use the stock sliding rails. I even thought about making a lean similar to stock but attach it to the bottom to make it a one piece bucket seat. For now though, the modified stock seat will work.

I got the other two sensors from Rotary Diagnostics the other day so now I can test a four rotor car if I ever see one lol.

I think I've decided to just get the Stage 2 Snow Performance kit. I need to make sure the pump will mount to my current bracket. I really hope so because I don't feel like having to modify that too haha.

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Shadowden
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Re: Build thread

Postby Shadowden » Sun Jan 15, 2017 9:14

Did you have them leave holes in the headrest for the shoulder straps or do the stock seats already account for shoulder harness straps?

I'm guessing that if you only removed foam and cloth that the fiberglass will be plenty strong. I was pretty surprised by the amount of flex in my recaro, but on track I don't notice it. Just a nice warm hug for hard cornering.

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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Jan 15, 2017 9:14

The stock seats have an opening for straps. I thought about having them put a piece in the middle to try to keep the straps off my neck but I don't think it would have done much.

Yeah I hope they're strong enough. I imagine they are, I'm sure a lot of people race in their stock seats. Honestly what I'd like is to create that seat out of aluminum and use the stock rails and get it FIA certified HAHA. That'll never happen. So I guess I'll settle for a nice warm hug. I think sinking down into the seat some more getting the additional support from the side bolsters, coupled with the harness, I think it'll work pretty well.

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Jan 16, 2017 9:14

I stopped by Snow Performance today to see about measurements on the pump mounting bracket, to make sure I'll be able to do a straight swap with mine. I'm not absolutely certain it will, but I think I'm going to get a kit anyway. I've been doing some homework on these kits, trying to figure out which one will work the best and maybe even be easier to install, and checking out other companies too. Snow has some kits that are very similar but for some reason are under different applications or names. I found another kit that I think I'll like even more. This one has a gauge as the controller and it also serves as a boost gauge (which I've been needing) and shows faults on the gauge as well. I still have the gauge pod piece to mold onto the top of the steering column cover, so I guess I'll put it there. I'm not crazy about adding a gauge yet again now that I have it back to fairly stock, but I figure this one won't hurt, and it will save me from adding a boost gauge by itself. My only concern with this is if I'll have to tap into the wiring harness that Chris made, I really don't want to do that.

http://www.snowperformance.net/Stage-2- ... -p/210.htm

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Jan 19, 2017 9:14

I went to Snow Performance yesterday and picked up the kit I linked above with the VC-50 controller. And I got a CRAZY deal on it. They told me last time that they do veterans discounts and discounts for locals also. The kit above is usually $559, I paid $352. I called after I left and thanked them for the huge discount and asked if they give all the locals that discount and the girl up front said she doesn't do the discounts, the owner does, and he said she's never seen anyone get a discount that good before haha. I told her I was going to tell everyone about it but I wanted to know first so they didn't have people coming up and getting pissed off at them because they didn't get as good of a deal.

Anyway, I got started installing the pump last night but didn't get very far before I started losing hardware in the subframe and decided to get new locknuts anyway. Here is the old pump and new pump for comparison. And the holes to mount it are exactly the same.
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I was able to use the same line from the washer tank to the pump, but I decided to swap the line from the pump to the IC pipe because there isn't anything in the line between the two components, whereas the FJO kit had a filter and pressure sensor in line. I'm going to use the little red clips to make sure the line stays locked, the ones I bought for the oil catch can.
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I finished pulling out the FJO kit tonight, aside from the USB extension cable I added, because the end I need to pull is stuck within some other wiring harnesses and I can't get it loose. I'm still trying to decide for sure where to put the gauge because while I want a boost gauge, I really don't like the idea of adding gauges again. Right now I'm looking at putting it on the steering column but I'm not crazy about the idea of blocking any part of the tach, and I also have to basically make a pod to put it there. I thought about putting it on the a-pillar but I like the stock cover there and I don't want to add a gauge there either. MAYBE if I could find a single gauge cluster for the center speaker I'd put it there. Oh well, I'll probably just fiberglass the gauge into the steering column cover, that way I can try to get it as low as possible.

I picked up the seats today. I was pleased with them until I put the driver's seat in the car and sat in it. It's still fairly low, but it still has too much foam in the butt area and in the lean too. The lean is pretty much identical to the stock seat, which kinda pisses me off since that was one of the things I told them about. The bottom is a problem because they have too much foam in the butt and not as much under the legs, so basically it's just flat and my legs aren't supported at all, while I sit a bit higher than I'd like. Also, the butt and lean foam pieces aren't as easily removable as I'd requested. Considering how much I paid it really pisses me off that they're not right, but I'm trying to decide if it's worth taking them back or if I'll just pull out the foam pieces and cut out the extra foam I don't want and figure out how to make the upholstery work. And at some point I'm definitely making an aluminum seat that uses the stock rails.
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Also, my tranny is still leaking, and there is engine oil residue from the pan not sealing too. Apparently there is no fix to make an oil pan not leak.
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Jan 22, 2017 9:14

I decided to put the gauge/controller on top of the steering column, and I was going to go to Lowe's today and see if I could find some PVC or something similar in the right size to shape and mold into the column cover. But before I left I got a message from Chris saying he figured out how to get the ECU to control water injection. He said it won't be just on or off like before, but will meter it according to a 3D map like the FJO controller. When he built the harness he put an extra connector coming out of the ECU harness just in case I'd ever want to have the ECU handle water injection in the future, so he will just make a harness to plug into that to run the pump and solenoid. So I'll install the harness and he'll tune it all when he comes out in the Spring.

I was planning on starting on the fiberglass oil cooler ducts tonight but I guess that'll be tomorrow.

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Re: Build thread

Postby vierte » Sun Jan 22, 2017 9:14

What ECU are you using?

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Jan 22, 2017 9:14

Syvecs S6 Plus

I'm a little concerned this will be like the OMP situation. Just to rehash what happened there, I sent the ECU back last winter so Syvecs could install the firmware to make the OMP work. Technically it does work, but it just dumps oil in instead of metering it like it should. For one I hope this actually works with no issues. I am also a little concerned putting all my eggs in one basket like this, letting the ECU control everything. If it goes down for whatever reason I'm screwed, but I should be able to get another one so it shouldn't be a problem. One pro about using the Snow system is I'll know if there is a problem with it, whereas with the ECU I might not know other than never having to refill the water meth haha. It might show a fault though like with other issues, not sure. But I do like the idea of not adding any other gauges and having an advanced map like the FJO, although I never adjusted the map after I set it lol.

On one hand it would be nice to have a boost gauge again, but I don't even really watch the other gauges as it is and I'll probably just get with Syvecs about a resolution to show boost through the app. At this point I'm just treating it like a completely stock car. The only gauges I usually pay attention to are water temp, oil temp, oil pressure and fuel pressure, and those are all in my main cluster.

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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Fri Feb 03, 2017 9:14

Last week I started an experiment trying to make molds for making fiberglass oil cooler ducts. I taped off the oil coolers and then taped from the current ducting to the hole on the bumper, and then sprayed cooking spray on everything to serve as a release agent for the foam. Then I sprayed Great Stuff expanding foam (for doors and windows, it doesn't expand as much as the regular foam) to completely fill the void. In theory, it should work. In reality, it did not. Somehow the foam defied gravity in some places and in others it obeyed the laws of gravity. I had huge pockets within the mold, and some places where it was missing where I needed it most. So these are useless. I thought it was a good plan, but there was another problem I ran into. I basically taped the bumper to the car and then put foam over it, so I had to use a screwdriver and paint scraper to detach the tape (Gorilla tape no less) from the bumper.

Passenger side
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Driver's side
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Ewwwww! There was a good amount of spray that didn't even harden. It was like egg yolk.
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So instead of spray foam I picked up some insulation foam board to use. I cut it in pieces and glued together two of the pieces so far but I need to redo it so that the last piece fits over the hole completely and there is enough foam in the piece behind it to angle smoothly back.
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I also changed out some of the bolts holding the crossmember in to a different set of hardware so that I don't have to cut the extra material out of the bumper. This way they're flat and don't interfere.
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I found this issue too. Looks like the oil cooler line has been rubbing on the bumper. Ruh roh.
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speedjunkie
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Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Thu Feb 09, 2017 9:14

I started this post two days ago but Firefox crashed on me and I never tried to get on it yesterday.

I finally started fiberglassing the first oil cooler duct a couple days ago. I cut new pieces of the insulation foam board and placed them where they would cover the hole and allow me to shave the excess back to the cooler without having any gaps. I tried using the carving knife first but it was barely cutting through. I tried using the band saw but the gap wasn't big enough to fit the foam through. So I ended up using a hacksaw and it turned out ok. It was a little rough, but I covered the whole thing in aluminum tape to try to smooth it out as much as possible. I had a couple areas where I cut off too much foam, and on one part of those I tried using painter's putty to fill it in before covering it with the tape, but it didn't want to stick to the foam so it only turned out ok, not great.
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I laid the fiberglass on the bottom side last night and then finished covering it completely today. I think I'll do the other cooler all at one time instead of two phases. I wasn't sure I could do the cooler with it laying on it's back, I was afraid the resin would just run down, but it's thick enough that once you apply some to the aluminum tape the cloth will stick to it and it stays once it's all applied to the mold.
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When I applied the second half today I also added the tabs to mount them to the coolers. Since I'm using the mounting brackets on the coolers I was thinking about laying another layer on top and making that into the mounting tabs, but it should be flexible enough and it really doesn't matter lol.
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So yesterday (8 Feb) I removed the first ducting from the mold and laid the second ducting all in one shot. I also made some additional brackets for the oil coolers to firm them up. They're supposed to be mounted more rigid, supposedly, and the only mounts I've had on them before were at opposite corners so they moved a little too much still. I used some scrap aluminum and made one for each side to add a third mounting point. They're pretty solid now.
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I started fitting up the front bumper, and I really need to see Ken from Shine. Because I want to give him a huge hug and kiss, this bumper fits perfectly! Ok, probably not a kiss, but at least a man hug. Shine products are always spot on.
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