Build thread

Talk about your Rotaries!
User avatar
speedjunkie
Senior Member
Posts: 5294
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
Location: Colorado Springs
Contact:

Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:14

lOOkatme wrote:What about running a 295 30 18 tires all around on 11.5" wheels.

You can also not duct the brakes and run aggressive brake pads and go all out on the tires and wheels. Perhaps there are brake ducts that don't need the duct, but route cold air from underneath the car? If you find some let me know, I might be interested in them as well but I don't want to run any ducting hose, just a duct " grabber" of air.


I've thought about that, and I might do that, but it also limits my tire selection. If I can fit 11.5" wheels with ducting then I'll do that and deal with the tire selection.

I could probably just not run ducts on mine and do just the back plates, but I'd like to make it as functional as possible. I wanted to go with a less aggressive pad so that I could get some that don't squeal on the street, and ducting helps so I can use them on the track and not have to worry about fade.

lOOkatme wrote:This guy is doing something of what I would do. route air to blow in the general area of the brakes and let the brakes suck it up as they act like an air pump.


http://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-your ... use-83801/


That's a good idea, but we're limited in that same area for grabbing air, unless you delete the washer tank and coolant overflow tank. What I'll probably do is run them straight back from the wheel and under the frame and probably up to between the IC and radiator (once they're ducted). I even thought about cutting a hole in the liner on each side where it fills the hole between the engine bay and wheel well, but I'd like to keep from doing that if possible. I'd definitely do that if I had some RE Amemiya ducted headlights though.

As for the ignition coils, I've thought about just making a box for them and then routing it up to near the hood at the back since I have the vents there and the heat should be sucked out in that area anyway while you're moving. That way I don't have to run a duct all the way from the front to there.

In other news, I'm getting my seats tomorrow, WOOHOO!!!

User avatar
speedjunkie
Senior Member
Posts: 5294
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
Location: Colorado Springs
Contact:

Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Tue Aug 25, 2015 9:14

I emailed with Chris today and he said he hasn't worked on the car lately, but he's going to mess around with the fuel issue and see what happens.

I got these today too. Obviously I can't test fit them in the car yet, but our new friend Joe stopped by last night and I told him he should stop by tonight since he wants to see the seats and he has his passenger seat out already haha, but he didn't stop by tonight. These things fit me perfectly though. The width is perfect and everything.
Image

Oh I forgot to mention the seat weighed in at about 20lbs, and the rails weighed about 5lbs. I don't remember what the stock seat weighs, but 25lbs isn't too bad.

User avatar
speedjunkie
Senior Member
Posts: 5294
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
Location: Colorado Springs
Contact:

Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Fri Aug 28, 2015 9:14

A couple updates...

Joe brought his car over and I tried one of the seats in his passenger side. Man, this thing doesn't fit haha. I'm going to try dropping the seat to the lowest point in the front (it's already the lowest in the back) and all the way back. Right now the leg bolsters hit on the tranny tunnel and the door, to the point where the door won't even come close to closing. Not to mention the outer shoulder bolsters on each side might need to be trimmed down too. And the top of the seat is pretty close to the roof of the car.

Now here is the really bad news...the fuel pulsation issue has gotten worse, to the point that it shuts down the ECU (that's what Chris says, but I'm thinking he means that it puts it into limp mode, I'm not sure). He's tried a couple things and nothing works. He says that it mainly happens between 5-10psi boost pressure. At first I thought maybe the ethanol dissolved the debris in the tank and is clogging the filters, but he said it was doing it before he ever put ethanol in the tank. We've had some different ideas, but I'm thinking it's because the check valves are right after the sensors and if I moved them further down the line the issue would subside. But who knows. All I know is I have a little over a week until I go get the car and this is freaking me out.

User avatar
Saul_Good
Senior Member
Posts: 480
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 9:14
Location: Cerritos, CA (DW says i can't play here anymore...)
Contact:

Re: Build thread

Postby Saul_Good » Sat Aug 29, 2015 9:14

speedjunkie wrote:A couple updates...

Joe brought his car over and I tried one of the seats in his passenger side. Man, this thing doesn't fit haha. I'm going to try dropping the seat to the lowest point in the front (it's already the lowest in the back) and all the way back. Right now the leg bolsters hit on the tranny tunnel and the door, to the point where the door won't even come close to closing. Not to mention the outer shoulder bolsters on each side might need to be trimmed down too. And the top of the seat is pretty close to the roof of the car.

Now here is the really bad news...the fuel pulsation issue has gotten worse, to the point that it shuts down the ECU (that's what Chris says, but I'm thinking he means that it puts it into limp mode, I'm not sure). He's tried a couple things and nothing works. He says that it mainly happens between 5-10psi boost pressure. At first I thought maybe the ethanol dissolved the debris in the tank and is clogging the filters, but he said it was doing it before he ever put ethanol in the tank. We've had some different ideas, but I'm thinking it's because the check valves are right after the sensors and if I moved them further down the line the issue would subside. But who knows. All I know is I have a little over a week until I go get the car and this is freaking me out.


The seat issues sound like miata issues. You will have to modify your panels (ie smash them in) as for the trans tunnel, the Miata guys lift the carpet and use a mallet to 'mold' space for the leg bolsters. You might need to do both since the FD is basically a bigger Miata.

Sucks about the fuel. ECU issues are the main problem for a lot of things that depend on them to function. Always budget an extra 3-4 mos on top of your estimate for 'gremlins'.

User avatar
speedjunkie
Senior Member
Posts: 5294
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
Location: Colorado Springs
Contact:

Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sat Aug 29, 2015 9:14

Saul_Good wrote:The seat issues sound like miata issues. You will have to modify your panels (ie smash them in) as for the trans tunnel, the Miata guys lift the carpet and use a mallet to 'mold' space for the leg bolsters. You might need to do both since the FD is basically a bigger Miata.

Sucks about the fuel. ECU issues are the main problem for a lot of things that depend on them to function. Always budget an extra 3-4 mos on top of your estimate for 'gremlins'.


These seats fit in another guy's car though. He said he didn't have to even trim anything. I can't even imagine trying to fit seats into a Miata haha, not seats that fit ME anyway.

Chris has tried a few things today but nothing has worked so far. I emailed Paul Yaw about it but I doubt he'll get back to me. I'm still waiting on him to respond to an email I sent him in November 2013 about the fuel pump he's working on with Bosch haha. Chris shortened the spacers on the pump hanger to get the pumps up off the floor of the fuel tank, but that didn't work. There was an exposed wire for the pumps, the wire that had a nick in the insulation when I installed it, and he fixed that, and he also put in teflon hose to replace the Gates hose (from the pump to the hanger) since he said he'd seen numerous people have problems with that hose submerged in E85, even though Gates told me it was good for that. He ran wires straight from the battery to the pumps, didn't work. He's going to remove the check valves and see if that works. I'm really lost at this point. I'm wondering if we're not just chasing a ghost like Andy says. Maybe these issues are normal but people don't usually know about them because they don't have sensors where I have them. Although the gauge in the car is showing these fluctuations too, and that sensor is in the fuel rail. I don't normally see fluctuations on that gauge, and it's digital so I doubt it would show them unless they were large and slow-ish. I would imagine most people would notice if their fuel gauge was showing fluctuations.

lOOkatme
Senior Member
Posts: 163
Joined: Thu Jun 20, 2013 9:14
Location: COS

Re: Build thread

Postby lOOkatme » Sun Aug 30, 2015 9:14

Could the fuel pump regulator on the pump itself be bad?

Typically fuel pressure fluctuates when the internal regulator on the pump goes bad. Might only be on 1 pump.

User avatar
speedjunkie
Senior Member
Posts: 5294
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
Location: Colorado Springs
Contact:

Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Sun Aug 30, 2015 9:14

lOOkatme wrote:Could the fuel pump regulator on the pump itself be bad?

Typically fuel pressure fluctuates when the internal regulator on the pump goes bad. Might only be on 1 pump.


That might be, but both pumps would be bad. Both sensors show fluctuations and he said what's weird is that they overlap each other when laid over each other. Maybe they're just bad pumps. It's not like it's impossible that both pumps are bad. Weirder things have happened. And I was thinking about what you said about chasing a ghost. I'm hoping you're correct but I realized that theses fluctuations being noticed on the dash gauge means that people would normally see it and I assume someone would have mentioned it before. And I don't remember there being a problem before on my car either.

lOOkatme
Senior Member
Posts: 163
Joined: Thu Jun 20, 2013 9:14
Location: COS

Re: Build thread

Postby lOOkatme » Mon Aug 31, 2015 9:14

I am going out on a limb here, pulsing voltage to the pumps, and the pumps fluctuate due to the voltage differences?

I know, its a stretch, but is the voltage steady to the pumps?

User avatar
speedjunkie
Senior Member
Posts: 5294
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
Location: Colorado Springs
Contact:

Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Mon Aug 31, 2015 9:14

lOOkatme wrote:I am going out on a limb here, pulsing voltage to the pumps, and the pumps fluctuate due to the voltage differences?

I know, its a stretch, but is the voltage steady to the pumps?


It's a possibility, but I would imagine it would have been steady when he had it wired directly from the battery. Maybe not though.

I emailed CJ Motorsports and Charles told me that using Teflon line can contribute to pulsations because it's more rigid and not as forgiving as rubber. Also, larger injectors that open and close abruptly. Chris said Wednesday he'll have all the parts to bypass the check valves, and he's also going to make lines to go from the hardlines to each fuel rail, basically making it one pump feeding each rail. I'm not crazy about that idea because with them Y'd together, even if one pump fails they both still get fuel, whereas one rail would starve if a pump failed with them ran the way he's going to do it. However, as of right now he's just doing it to test it out, and if it works I'm not going to change it back, I'll keep it that way. There are failsafes to protect the engine anyway in the case of a pump failure. I'll probably get a different secondary rail if I keep it that way though, since the current one has the branch off to feed the primary rail. And if the separate lines work, I won't need the check valves anymore anyway, I don't think. If I do need them, I'll move them to the engine bay right off the hardlines probably.

Here is a log from a 20psi pull on the dyno.
Image

Here is some of what Chris said about it...
I think it’s a real problem and not just data. I didn’t have an issue on the dyno where I thought, “Hey! This isn’t right.” But, in hindsight, there were some oddities in having to add fuel in a couple areas where I didn’t think I should. There are also some somewhat lengthy dips in the pulses that I can’t simply chalk up to injector pulsation.

To answer your questions from before, the big pulsations don’t show up until 5 or 6 psi of boost. The largest drops in pressure are right around 30 psi. The highest peaks are about 20 psi high. I’ve attached a log of a 20 psi pull on the dyno that illustrates everything very well. I’ve also attached a screenshot of the log. As far as the issue getting worse. I probably misspoke there. It’s true that I hadn’t had the ECU trip a low pressure fault until this week but the logs this weekend versus what we did on the dyno aren’t really any different. It just happened that I got a longer stretch of low pressure than I had at any time on the dyno. The ECU trip has a time element to it. Pressure has to be low for a given amount of time before the ECU trips. So it’s not so much that the pressure pulses we much greater but that we got a longer dip than anything we’d seen to that point. In the end, the ECU did its job and shut everything down.


Here are some other things he's said in the past week or so, but keep in mind these are old so some of the things he's already tried and didn't work.
Did some more testing and I'm now pretty confident there is a real fuel pressure issue and not just a sensor anomaly. The issue gets worse when the secondary injectors come on line but is also present with just the primaries. Basically, as injector duty goes up, the issue vets worse. I can also see the issue on the gauge in the dash. So it's not localized to the rear of the car.

I didn't relocate the pressure reference for the FPR but I did make a restrictor and put it in the vac line. It's common to do this with MAP sensors to smooth out resonant pulses. That did nothing. Also ran it with the fuel fill cap removed to make sure the tank was vented and that did nothing.

My guess, and it's just that, is that there is a fuel feed issue to the pumps. It really acts like the tank isn't vented properly. Similar to pouring gas out of a jug and getting the "glug-glug" when it's not vented well enough. My thought is, if it were a voltage issue or one pump was laying down, you'd simply have low pressure, not pulsating pressure. When volume demand is low, there is no issue. When volume demand goes up, you get the pulsations.

I may have time before you arrive to pull the pumps out and check the pickup socks. But, other than that, I really wasn't planning on allocating diagnostic time. This is something I'm sure you could sort yourself. Thoughts?

Other than that, it's ready to go. I put some 93 in it and the fuel blend is reading about 60% ethanol. The flex trims are working properly and maintaining correct mixtures. I'm going to add some more 93 and check again to make sure it's consistent at closer to 10% ethanol.


Took the pump assembly apart to get that bad wire out and like I guesses, the Delphi connector sets for the pumps aren’t doing well. The seals are already falling apart. I’d recommend removing the connectors, doing butt splices, and covering those with PTFE heat shrink. Sounds like a plan?


The pulsations aren't present at low load. You need to make about 6 psi of boost to see the pulsations. At idle and low load the variance is only about 3 psi. At full load we're seeing up to 30 psi drops in pressure.

I'm going to make up some lines to run one pump to each rail and give it a try. I understand your concern but two things help in the event of a failed pump. One, the ECU is going to shut the engine down if pressure drops in the rail. We've already tested that. Two, the good pump can still back feed through the FPR to keep you running as long as the check valves are working correctly.

Only other idea I would have then is ID of the rails being too small. I doubt they're 5/16 because that would be REALLY small. Rails are usually 1/2", sometimes 5/8". With the big injectors, you'll want the rail ID as big as possible. The pulsation damper wouldn't hurt but I'm not sure it would solve the huge pulses we have. Give CJ a call and see what they say. My experience with them is that they make some really nice parts but haven't necessarily tested every combination of what they sell. Do you know anyone running 6 injectors plumbed the same way you have them? And if someone is running them, do they have access to good data? Remember, the car feels fine when you drive it.


He also did some more digging about the fuel hose in the tank and it turns out it may be OK with ethanol after all.

lOOkatme
Senior Member
Posts: 163
Joined: Thu Jun 20, 2013 9:14
Location: COS

Re: Build thread

Postby lOOkatme » Tue Sep 01, 2015 9:14

Problem Statement/Given:

- Small fuel pulsations at low loads 3PSI or so.
- Large fuel pulsations at high loads, over 30PSI. this correlates with higher pressure and higher injector duty cycle.
- dual pump configuration with a Y. sensor located in back of fuel system plumbing
- parallel fuel system configuration
- Fuel pumps are located low into the tank with socks on the floor of the tank
- FP wired directly to the battery (fuel pumps on 100% of the time, 100% pumping force)
- Not sure of fuel filteration

Possible issues:
- fuel system is not providing smooth reliable fuel pressure
1) Fuel system design
- Fuel pumps cannot back fill pressure loss from injectors quickly enough showing pulsation (too much filtration) *
- Fuel pumps are overpowering regulator when pressure increases showing pulsation in pressure. *
- Fuel injector rails are too small in size.
- Fuel pump socks are too close to bottom of tank and cannnot flow the volume through the sock.
- Fuel pumps are cavitating *
2) defective parts
- fuel pumps are not operating correctly (internal regulator) *
- battery/alternator or something is not providing steady voltage
- grounding of wires are intermittent
3) Maintenance
- Fuel pump socks are clogged *
- Fuel pump clogged *
- Fuel filters clogged *


I just did some off the top of my head stuff. I put * next to the ones I would definitely check out. Just trying to help. I am doubtful for those that don't have a *.

lOOkatme
Senior Member
Posts: 163
Joined: Thu Jun 20, 2013 9:14
Location: COS

Re: Build thread

Postby lOOkatme » Tue Sep 01, 2015 9:14

- Fuel pumps are overpowering regulator when pressure increases showing pulsation in pressure.

This shouldn't have a *

Also, perhaps you have a vacuum leak to the fuel pressure regulator. forgot to add that one.

User avatar
speedjunkie
Senior Member
Posts: 5294
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
Location: Colorado Springs
Contact:

Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Tue Sep 01, 2015 9:14

lOOkatme wrote:Problem Statement/Given:

- Small fuel pulsations at low loads 3PSI or so.
- Large fuel pulsations at high loads, over 30PSI. this correlates with higher pressure and higher injector duty cycle.
- dual pump configuration with a Y. sensors located in back of fuel system plumbing
- parallel fuel system configuration
- Fuel pumps are located low into the tank with socks on the floor of the tank He already fixed this.
- FP wired directly to the battery (fuel pumps on 100% of the time, 100% pumping force) I believe he did this just for testing, it SHOULD be back to normal now.
- Not sure of fuel filteration dual RobbMC 10 micron filters

Possible issues:
- fuel system is not providing smooth reliable fuel pressure I believe this is better stated as the problem lol. The fuel pressure is somewhat reliable (not completely though obviously), but definitely not smooth.
1) Fuel system design
- Fuel pumps cannot back fill pressure loss from injectors quickly enough showing pulsation (too much filtration) * That's possible, but it's only going to get worse since I'm putting in 6 micron filters when I get it back. I'd be torn if that's truly the cause, since I don't want to risk debris in the injectors either.
- Fuel pumps are overpowering regulator when pressure increases showing pulsation in pressure. You're talking about the FPR? That could be. It is A LOT of flow, and two 6AN crammed into one 8AN.
- Fuel injector rails are too small in size. I think this is something he still believes is a possibility. I have no idea, but if I'm going to split the lines to where each rail gets a pump, I'd prefer the secondary rail be larger, but also that more fuel flowed to it. The primaries don't really need their own pump.
- Fuel pump socks are too close to bottom of tank and cannnot flow the volume through the sock. He already raised the pumps up off the floor, but that was one of the things we wondered about before.
- Fuel pumps are cavitating * They shouldn't be because they are up off the floor now and he's run this with a full tank too.
2) defective parts
- fuel pumps are not operating correctly (internal regulator) * I would hope not since they're brand new, but stranger things have happened.
- battery/alternator or something is not providing steady voltage I have no idea. I would hope this is not true because I hate electrical issues lol.
- grounding of wires are intermittent Being that the car is plagued with horrible grounds from the factory, I believe I've fixed most of it but it's hard telling.
3) Maintenance
- Fuel pump socks are clogged *
- Fuel pump clogged *
- Fuel filters clogged *
I would hope these aren't the issue since it's been like this even on pump gas and all that is brand new, but it's possible as an additional issue. I hate more than one issue at a time because he could have already fixed half the problem and not known it. I would imagine he checked the socks, but I'm not sure.

I just did some off the top of my head stuff. I put * next to the ones I would definitely check out. Just trying to help. I am doubtful for those that don't have a *.

Also, perhaps you have a vacuum leak to the fuel pressure regulator. forgot to add that one. He's messed around with that vacuum line, so I would assume not, but it's possible I guess. He's also set the pressure where it would be at boost just to rule out the MAP reference.


Thanks for the brainstorming! It certainly doesn't hurt.

Oh, and my offer for the tires was shot down.

FDEEZ
Senior Member
Posts: 235
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2013 9:14
Location: Colorado Springs

Re: Build thread

Postby FDEEZ » Wed Sep 02, 2015 9:14

Eric,
Either your motor demands the fuel of a 1,000hp dragster, your duel pumps (running in parallel) were designed for a slightly modified honda civic, or you have some serious vacuum or fuel leaks. I doubt any of those are true, but with a 30psi drop in fuel pressue, the math just isn't working out.

Regarding math, here's a few things I recommend you test in order to determine if your fuel system is optimized.
1. Ohm's Law
2. Kirchhoff's Law

Ohms Law:
- If "E"=volts, "I"=Current, and "R" = Resistance, then use this formula: E = I x R
-- To effectively use this formula, you're going to need a few things:
a. Current required at 12 volts (assuming your using a 12v pump). Hopefully you have the manufacturer's specs. This will be "I".
--Now let's assume 1 pump needs 15 amps at 12 volts.
b. Wire resistance from the length of wire used. This will be "R". In other words, you'll need to know the gauge of wire used for your pump(s) and the associated resistance/ft (you can Google that).
---For example, to find "R" for 15 ft of 18 awg wire, then R = 15x.006520 Ω.
c. To solve for "E", plug in all the values for the equation.
--Using the numbers above (assuming you used 15ft of wire) gives you this: E = 15 amps x (15 x .006520 Ω)
--- E = 1.467 volts

Now using Kirchhoff's Law:
-Let's assume your alternator provides a constant 12.5v...then
-- 12.5 - 1.467 = 11.033 volts
- So if your pump requires 12v, it will only be getting 11.033v. That's bad.

- Now if you're using two pumps for that 1 wire, then
-- E = 30 amps x (15 x .006520 Ω)....E= 2.934 volts
--- Then 12.5v - 2.934 = 9.556v. That's even worse. Actually, that's terrible!!!

- In other words, using those two examples, if your 1 pump requires 12v and that's not what's being delivered to 1 or both pumps (due to your fuel system design), then that's bad juju.
-- So if your pumps aren't delivering the right amount of volume, then check your wiring.
-- If the problem gets worse with higher rpm...then your alternator is probably the culprit (assuming you're wired correctly & have good grounds).
--- This may actually be your overall problem (your alternator). To confirm, hook up a volt gauge and see if your alternator is providing constant voltage throughout your rev range. If not, then your pumps may not be able to keep up with higher demands (example: over 6 lbs of boost)...without the required voltage. So bypassing a few things to run your pumps directly off the battery probably won't have any positive effects...as voltage may drop on the battery with a running vehicle and weak alternator. Hope that makes sense.

Just got off work...so my public math may be off. I didn't read all your posts, but I hope that helps. Good luck!

User avatar
speedjunkie
Senior Member
Posts: 5294
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
Location: Colorado Springs
Contact:

Re: Build thread

Postby speedjunkie » Wed Sep 02, 2015 9:14

Ill do the match another time, my PT test is tomorrow morning lol, and I'll have to wait til I see the car to figure out the length of the wiring. But for one, I don't think I'm using anything smaller than 14ga to power and ground the pumps, and at times its 12ga and from the batteries its 10ga. My alternator goes up to 14+v under throttle, and it's an upgraded alternator from IRP, although I've had problems with it before when I ran too large a pulley on it, so I'll bring it up to Chris. Thanks for the idea! I never thought of that.

The fuel system is definitely overbuilt, but I try to do that with all the supporting systems.

User avatar
VRx8
Senior Member
Posts: 755
Joined: Sat Jul 04, 2009 9:14
Location: San Antonio, TX

Re: Build thread

Postby VRx8 » Thu Sep 03, 2015 9:14

If you see a 30psi drop at high loads then it will show on the AFR. IF it drops 30psi the engine will lean out as simple as that. If is not leaning out then the sensor might be bad or picking up noise.


Return to “Rotary Vehicle”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 13 guests