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Talk about your Rotaries!
Learjet45
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Postby Learjet45 » Mon Jan 05, 2015 9:14

speedjunkie wrote:Thanks! I was actually going to do a search on brake fluid. How easy is it to get this stuff?


I believe 3zero3 is one of their authorized dealers, so it's local(-ish, since you're down in the Springs).

Doubt it'll make much difference, but this is the stuff we use on the Formula SAE team at my school, it's great stuff.
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[color="Blue"]2008 Subaru Legacy 2.5i PZEV - Current Ride, 100% stock[/color]
[color="Gray"]2005 Mazda 6i Pebble Ash Metallic - Dead[/color]

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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Tue Jan 06, 2015 9:14

Rice Racing in Australia is developing this COP setup, and I'm seriously thinking about it. The only issue is if it will fit with my current setup, because my water injection pump is on the frame rail and might be in the way, and I'm not sure these will fit behind the AC and PS pumps. Pretty baller either way though.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=18491

lOOkatme wrote:I have extra ATE bluestuff if you need some;)

you know its good when they ban it!


I still have some, but the can has been open for a while so it might have attracted a lot of moisture. Thanks! Well it's always been banned, I just think it's idiotic to be banned anyway. Just because of the damn color.:mad:

lOOkatme wrote:Geoff is running this intercooler and it works great. We tuned to 10-11PSI, let him break in his turbo and will turn the boost up some more after everything is sorted out (he had some exhaust leaks as well). I am going to retune him after he fixes the exhaust leak.

He was running under 20 degrees from ambient the whole time, the intake in the bumper and intercooler did its job. His water temps were also perfect.

ambient when tuning was around 64-68F, his AIT's were around 86-87F. about 20 degrees. exactly where you want to be.


He's using this exact IC? Good to hear! I might just do that then. How much cooler is he running compared to the old setup (stock I think)?

Uh, do you have those numbers backwards? lol

Learjet45 wrote:I believe 3zero3 is one of their authorized dealers, so it's local(-ish, since you're down in the Springs).

Doubt it'll make much difference, but this is the stuff we use on the Formula SAE team at my school, it's great stuff.


LOL, I noticed 303 was a distributor and it got me thinking they might be in Denver, but I don't remember for whatever reason if that was Denver or in Cali lol. I still consider that pretty local.

Hey, it's always good to hear more people using it, especially race teams.
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lOOkatme
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Postby lOOkatme » Tue Jan 06, 2015 9:14

speedjunkie wrote:Rice Racing in Australia is developing this COP setup, and I'm seriously thinking about it. The only issue is if it will fit with my current setup, because my water injection pump is on the frame rail and might be in the way, and I'm not sure these will fit behind the AC and PS pumps. Pretty baller either way though.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=18491



I still have some, but the can has been open for a while so it might have attracted a lot of moisture. Thanks! Well it's always been banned, I just think it's idiotic to be banned anyway. Just because of the damn color.:mad:



He's using this exact IC? Good to hear! I might just do that then. How much cooler is he running compared to the old setup (stock I think)?

Uh, do you have those numbers backwards? lol



LOL, I noticed 303 was a distributor and it got me thinking they might be in Denver, but I don't remember for whatever reason if that was Denver or in Cali lol. I still consider that pretty local.

Hey, it's always good to hear more people using it, especially race teams.


ambient or outside air temp was mid 60's and his AIT temps were mid 80's F.

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$crillaTor
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Postby $crillaTor » Tue Jan 06, 2015 9:14

Yep. That is the exact one I am using. Seems to work well. I haven't seen my AI temps rise over 34C (93F) while driving. There were a couple days I drove it where the outside air temp was in the mid 80's and it still didn't get over 34C. Even the IC pipes are cool to the touch after running the car for an hour or so. At first I thought it was a bad AIT sensor, so I replaced it, same results. When the car just sits idling after running hard for a while on a mid 80's day, and the IC gets heat soaked, the highest I've seen it get is 43C.

On the stock setup, I would hit 50C AIT all the time even with it cool outside. I can't believe how much the V-mount setup with this IC lowered my temps. Amazing.

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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Tue Jan 06, 2015 9:14

lOOkatme wrote:ambient or outside air temp was mid 60's and his AIT temps were mid 80's F.


Oh, I think I see what you meant now. "He was running under 20 degrees from ambient the whole time" made me think you were saying he was running 20 degrees cooler than ambient. Now that I think about it, I'm not sure how that would be possible lol.

$crillaTor wrote:Yep. That is the exact one I am using. Seems to work well. I haven't seen my AI temps rise over 34C (93F) while driving. There were a couple days I drove it where the outside air temp was in the mid 80's and it still didn't get over 34C. Even the IC pipes are cool to the touch after running the car for an hour or so. At first I thought it was a bad AIT sensor, so I replaced it, same results. When the car just sits idling after running hard for a while on a mid 80's day, and the IC gets heat soaked, the highest I've seen it get is 43C.

On the stock setup, I would hit 50C AIT all the time even with it cool outside. I can't believe how much the V-mount setup with this IC lowered my temps. Amazing.


Hmmm, I wonder how much pressure loss it has. I'm a little leery of using something from CX Racing, but it seems like maybe they have gotten better. You really can't beat the price. I like how the end tanks angle in at the top and I'd only need to modify the inlet and exit a little...cut those off and put the pipes coming out at an angle, on the corner of the bottom.

I've seen so many people talk about using a heat shield between the two so the heat from the radiator doesn't heat soak it, but it really doesn't need it from what I've seen. I did see someone make an adjustable piece so they could push more air to either one, and I thought that might be kinda cool. But I don't think it's needed. I don't even think ducting is needed most of the time, but it's nice to be able to add it in warmer climates if needed. I swear by VMIC over any other type of setup.

I'm curious to see what using an AC condenser does to it though, to see how much warmer my water temps are lol.
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lOOkatme
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Postby lOOkatme » Tue Jan 06, 2015 9:14

speedjunkie wrote:Oh, I think I see what you meant now. "He was running under 20 degrees from ambient the whole time" made me think you were saying he was running 20 degrees cooler than ambient. Now that I think about it, I'm not sure how that would be possible lol.



Hmmm, I wonder how much pressure loss it has. I'm a little leery of using something from CX Racing, but it seems like maybe they have gotten better. You really can't beat the price. I like how the end tanks angle in at the top and I'd only need to modify the inlet and exit a little...cut those off and put the pipes coming out at an angle, on the corner of the bottom.

I've seen so many people talk about using a heat shield between the two so the heat from the radiator doesn't heat soak it, but it really doesn't need it from what I've seen. I did see someone make an adjustable piece so they could push more air to either one, and I thought that might be kinda cool. But I don't think it's needed. I don't even think ducting is needed most of the time, but it's nice to be able to add it in warmer climates if needed. I swear by VMIC over any other type of setup.

I'm curious to see what using an AC condenser does to it though, to see how much warmer my water temps are lol.


Pressure drop typically deals with fin density, the cxracing one doesn't have a high fin density, neither does the greddy intercooler you were using, and my M-spec (greddy knock off) has low fin density. the low fin density has low pressure drop, but less cooling power per area. With a V-mount you have the mass flow, so high fin density isn't needed IMO. it will also have lower drag. I think its close to being the perfect size, in fact, it shows we can even go smaller.

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Shadowden
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Postby Shadowden » Wed Jan 07, 2015 9:14

speedjunkie wrote:Oh, I think I see what you meant now. "He was running under 20 degrees from ambient the whole time" made me think you were saying he was running 20 degrees cooler than ambient. Now that I think about it, I'm not sure how that would be possible lol.


I read it the same way and was wondering about the mystical set up used to achieve such a result. Now it makes sense, but I still want there to be a set up that allows lower than ambient temperature intake charge air.

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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Wed Jan 07, 2015 9:14

lOOkatme wrote:Pressure drop typically deals with fin density, the cxracing one doesn't have a high fin density, neither does the greddy intercooler you were using, and my M-spec (greddy knock off) has low fin density. the low fin density has low pressure drop, but less cooling power per area. With a V-mount you have the mass flow, so high fin density isn't needed IMO. it will also have lower drag. I think its close to being the perfect size, in fact, it shows we can even go smaller.


Well, that's good I guess lol. I'm wondering if the way I'm wanting the inlet and outlet are going to let the air flow too fast to get cool. I'm planning on a very direct flow. I wish I could remember what my temps were with that black IC, the different between ambient and AIT. I guess you could test that now lol. Your setup will probably be very similar to what mine has been.

One of those Treadstone cores that I posted the link for, the smaller one, has a different fin design so that it sheds more heat, but it's probably more dense too.

Shadowden wrote:I read it the same way and was wondering about the mystical set up used to achieve such a result. Now it makes sense, but I still want there to be a set up that allows lower than ambient temperature intake charge air.


I think the only way to get that is to spray water or nitrous directly onto the IC on the bottom/front side, or put ice on the IC before a run if you're drag racing. I think anything less than that would be a mystical setup for sure lol. It's just not possible. I know a guy in NC that would turn a can of keyboard cleaner upside down and spray his IC on his SRT-4 before doing a run.
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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Wed Jan 07, 2015 9:14

My coilovers and brake rotors got to the house. Zico sent me these pics.
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I also bought a set of JDM intake manifolds from a guy in Longmont for $100, which is a really good price for a full set of manifolds, and I can just sell what I don't plan on using. I like the JDM UIM because it doesn't have the extra crap on it from the factory so it's not there to block off. I thought it had less vacuum nipples on the front too, but I guess it's the same. I'll just pull out whatever nipples I don't plan to use and tap the holes and put bolts/screws in them. I had one a few years ago that I gave to Mike, and I didn't know what it was at the time. Had I known I probably wouldn't have traded him haha. I'm still thinking about changing the color of the parts too. I'm not sure if I wanna do full polish or something like gunmetal. I don't want them to be just regular aluminum, and it seems like so many people do polished. I'm hoping gunmetal or a charcoal color of some sort will be good.

Here is the bottom side of the manifold. So smooth and purty.
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Dwduc
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Postby Dwduc » Thu Jan 08, 2015 9:14

Hey that looks like my intake! Better send it off to ShadowFab to get polished!

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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Thu Jan 08, 2015 9:14

Is that in town? I'm still not sure what I want to do as far as that goes.
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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Fri Jan 09, 2015 9:14

I forgot Zico sent me these pics back in December showing stuff that got delivered.

Compression tester from Rotary Diagnostics...
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Center speaker cover, RX-7 tshirt and Mikuni OMP. The speaker cover I got because my original one broke in the storage unit, and I had a Mikuni OMP before but the harness came loose and the pulleys started chewing through it, and I'd rather not take a chance on fixing it and something going wrong. The shirt has all 3 generations on it, the tails I think, and a rotor shape in the background. I got it when Jimmy Up was having a group buy on them.
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Seat rails from Adam Griffith. These will bolt the seats directly to the floor. I think these came in right after I left...
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Dwduc
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Postby Dwduc » Fri Jan 09, 2015 9:14

speedjunkie wrote:Is that in town? I'm still not sure what I want to do as far as that goes.


It's in Shadowden's garage in Castle Rock.

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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Fri Jan 09, 2015 9:14

Oh LOL. Gotcha. Now I remember the work he put into your parts. Yeah I should definitely do that lol.

I've thought about doing a super black chrome too, like I want to do on my wheels, at least the lips.
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FDEEZ
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Postby FDEEZ » Fri Jan 09, 2015 9:14

speedjunkie wrote:My coilovers and brake rotors got to the house. Zico sent me these pics.

If you haven't bought brake pads yet, I use Hawk HT-10's up front and Hawk HP Plus pads in the rear. That combo for me, creates phenomenal amounts of stopping power, especially on Hoosier A6's. Unfortunately, they do create horrible amounts dust...and they did overheat after 7 laps at Pueblo (so probably not a good daily driver pad).


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