Oh gotcha, well I guess I'll do my fuel setup soon then now that I don't have to worry about it sparking haha.
What kind of harness are you guys doing?
My new car!
- speedjunkie
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We're just thinning out the OEM harness by removing all the connectors I no longer need and de-pinning them at the ECU to completely remove all the wires, then heat shrinking with mil-spec Raychem heat shrink and a fire-proof braided wire loom. I just want it professional looking.
I went to Ace Hardware to verify what size the -6AN fitting is for the turbo oil feed off the front iron and the water jacket fittings on the turbo but they didn't have a thread gauge big enough...hmmm. I'm still pretty positive the front iron oil feed is 14x1.5mm, but the turbo water line size is larger so I'm not sure what it is. I still picked up some chrome M4x0.75 allen head bolts for the fuel pump hanger to replace the rusty and stupid OEM Phillips head screws that are strip prone.
I went to Ace Hardware to verify what size the -6AN fitting is for the turbo oil feed off the front iron and the water jacket fittings on the turbo but they didn't have a thread gauge big enough...hmmm. I'm still pretty positive the front iron oil feed is 14x1.5mm, but the turbo water line size is larger so I'm not sure what it is. I still picked up some chrome M4x0.75 allen head bolts for the fuel pump hanger to replace the rusty and stupid OEM Phillips head screws that are strip prone.

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I assume the FD uses the same really tiny screws as the FB. I've had a few of them actually snap and that really makes a mess.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
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Yeah, they are tiny, and a Phillips head to boot, making them obviously strip-prone and it would be a PITA to remove one if it stripped or broke. So the move to allen head cap bolts is a wise one IMO.
I got a sharp brick chisel from Harbor Freight today and tried cutting some braided SS AN hose with it as shone in this video:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1J7u8sG118"]Hose Cutting - YouTube[/ame]
Didn't work too well haha. To be honest I did on my concrete garage floor tho (bad idea) which ended up chipping some of the floor, but it also didn't allow the blade to go through the bottom of the hose so the braid wasn't completely cut. I need to find an aluminum or brass block (like in the video) and then I'll be set. I'm also using a rubber dead blow hammer so I might need to switch it out to a real 5lb sledge.
I'm still having trouble getting the "sock" pre filters to attach to the fuel pumps. With no way to secure the OEM bracket, I can't figure out a way to get the socks to stay securely on the pump inlets....
I got a sharp brick chisel from Harbor Freight today and tried cutting some braided SS AN hose with it as shone in this video:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1J7u8sG118"]Hose Cutting - YouTube[/ame]
Didn't work too well haha. To be honest I did on my concrete garage floor tho (bad idea) which ended up chipping some of the floor, but it also didn't allow the blade to go through the bottom of the hose so the braid wasn't completely cut. I need to find an aluminum or brass block (like in the video) and then I'll be set. I'm also using a rubber dead blow hammer so I might need to switch it out to a real 5lb sledge.
I'm still having trouble getting the "sock" pre filters to attach to the fuel pumps. With no way to secure the OEM bracket, I can't figure out a way to get the socks to stay securely on the pump inlets....

- speedjunkie
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^That makes me nervous, Eduardo, haha!
No, I didn't use any tape, I was told not to as you can shred some tape into the braid and it can get into the hose. Tape can also promote slipping from the socket fitting, I've heard. All I know is most pros who assemble this stuff say don't use tape.
The chisel method will work once I get an aluminum block. I'm also getting some cable cutters (similar to bolt cutters) to help cut the hose.
No, I didn't use any tape, I was told not to as you can shred some tape into the braid and it can get into the hose. Tape can also promote slipping from the socket fitting, I've heard. All I know is most pros who assemble this stuff say don't use tape.
The chisel method will work once I get an aluminum block. I'm also getting some cable cutters (similar to bolt cutters) to help cut the hose.

- speedjunkie
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I used tape on mine and never had a problem. For one, whatever tape is on there is cut clean just like the hose. You can take the tape off after you're finished cutting, but getting the fitting on after that has only worked for me about half the time haha. Regardless, the issue is still the wires flaring out as you're cutting, and I don't know too many ways around that other than tape.
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why not just get this?
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/80586/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/80586/10002/-1
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm
[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]
My Car Blog
- speedjunkie
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speedjunkie wrote:I used tape on mine and never had a problem. For one, whatever tape is on there is cut clean just like the hose. You can take the tape off after you're finished cutting, but getting the fitting on after that has only worked for me about half the time haha. Regardless, the issue is still the wires flaring out as you're cutting, and I don't know too many ways around that other than tape.
The reason I like the chiesel method is is cuts the braid in a way to make the braid bind more to the hose, so the little braids don't flare out and make getting the hose end socket on a terrible task.
I also was originally going with a KG Parts complete fuel system (keeping the OEM primary rail, tapping it for -6AN fittings) but I added up all the hose and fittings I need for it and I can save some coin piecing together my own system, so I'm going that route. Plus I don't then have to ship the primary rail to get it modified or anything, and then all my AN fittings can match (again, anal haha).
RX-7 Chris wrote:why not just get this?
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/80586/10002/-1
I am

chickenwafer wrote:I'm also getting some cable cutters (similar to bolt cutters) to help cut the hose.

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Cleaned and painted my first rotor housing the other day. The metallic purple came out well but doesn't perfectly match the TiAL purple, but it's close. I'm still pretty happy with it. The finish is durable and looks good. I will get some pictures up here the next few days when I get the other housing finished.
Also going to hopefully start on modding the OEM engine harness this weekend.
Also going to hopefully start on modding the OEM engine harness this weekend.

- speedjunkie
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Finished painting my other rotor housing today so I'll snap some pictures of them once they are done curing.
Also picked up some Gates submersible rated fuel rose (part #H213) from NAPA which was the only place I could get it. No one working at AutoZone had even heard of submersible rated fuel hose...really? Go work at K-Mart or something...sheesh! Anyways, the stuff isn't cheap at $30 a ft. Luckily I just needed 8 inches of it.
So I finished plumbing the dual Supra in-tank fuel pumps with the new hose. Just need to make the in-tank electrical connections (2 jumper wires) and pick up another pre filter sock and I'm ready to drop it in. Should have it done this weekend.
Also noticed some paint peeling on the brake booster under the master cylinder. Sprayed some Simple Green on it and wiped it and a lot more paint peeled off. I'm going to prep the surface tonight and then hit it with some of the black engine paint to keep it from rusting more.
Also picked up some Gates submersible rated fuel rose (part #H213) from NAPA which was the only place I could get it. No one working at AutoZone had even heard of submersible rated fuel hose...really? Go work at K-Mart or something...sheesh! Anyways, the stuff isn't cheap at $30 a ft. Luckily I just needed 8 inches of it.
So I finished plumbing the dual Supra in-tank fuel pumps with the new hose. Just need to make the in-tank electrical connections (2 jumper wires) and pick up another pre filter sock and I'm ready to drop it in. Should have it done this weekend.
Also noticed some paint peeling on the brake booster under the master cylinder. Sprayed some Simple Green on it and wiped it and a lot more paint peeled off. I'm going to prep the surface tonight and then hit it with some of the black engine paint to keep it from rusting more.

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