My new car!

[chickenwafer]

Haha, thanks Eric. I actually think the metallic purple and the Montego Blue (which isn't actually all that green...only sometimes haha) mesh really well together. In the right light MB can almost have a purple hue to it, which is what gave me this idea in the first place. It's mostly blue/greenish though, which I think lends itself very well to the purple. I guess we'll just have to wait and see

The water ports are on the new MV-S (38mm) and MV-R (44mm) TiAL wastegates. They are more compact and feature a flared -4AN fitting that circulates a small amount of coolant to keep the rubber diaphragm happy and from overheating. It's mostly for road racing/time attack people that will see constant, high EGT's. I'm not but I figure "why not!" so I'm hooking them up, with all -4AN fittings, of course. Go big or go home haha.

I started painting the irons (well, one iron) tonight. I can quickly tell I don't have the proper patience for doing a proper masking job. I was all careful until I flipped the iron over and said #### it just so I could it done quicker. Didn't really do a horrible job, just not as clean as it could be haha. I guess we'll see how it looks when the paint cures overnight and the mask is removed.

On a plus note the VHT engine enamel black and clear comes out a very nice wet black, which is exactly what I wanted. I was worried it would be dull or flat, but it's very shiny, so I'm happy.

[speedjunkie]

Yeah it's the closest thing we have to green though haha. I think I've seen a bit of purple in there before too actually. It'll probably look good together.

That's awesome, I didn't know that. Maybe I'll have to upgrade both my WGs with the new turbo setup then also HAHA. I just gotta figure out where I'm going to route the water from and to. Where are you going to do yours? I would definitely do AN fittings too, no need in skimping on something like that...it's already baller, you'd be half-assing it to use anything else haha. I never thought about keeping that diaphragm cool though, that's a good idea.

I think you'll still be pleased with your engine paint job. There were a couple spots on mine when I got it back from Rich where I felt he kinda half-assed it. Then once everything was together, you can hardly see any of it anyway so it doesn't really matter LOL. So even if you don't care for parts of it, they'll probably be covered up anyway haha.

If I have to replace any parts of my engine when I rebuilt, I'll try that VHT. Thanks for the heads up! I wanna see some pics though haha.

[eliminster]

It's ok speedjunkie you can name me out, I plan on trying to start a shop down here in springs once i am done with school so in about 4-5 years depending on how long it takes me to get the money together, and as for before that i will be looking for a mechanic inclined job so i can get more hands on experience with rotaries since my school only briefly goes over them and focuses more on the v-8's which is understandable.

[chickenwafer]

Yeah it's the closest thing we have to green though haha. I think I've seen a bit of purple in there before too actually. It'll probably look good together.

That's awesome, I didn't know that. Maybe I'll have to upgrade both my WGs with the new turbo setup then also HAHA. I just gotta figure out where I'm going to route the water from and to. Where are you going to do yours? I would definitely do AN fittings too, no need in skimping on something like that...it's already baller, you'd be half-assing it to use anything else haha. I never thought about keeping that diaphragm cool though, that's a good idea.

I think you'll still be pleased with your engine paint job. There were a couple spots on mine when I got it back from Rich where I felt he kinda half-assed it. Then once everything was together, you can hardly see any of it anyway so it doesn't really matter LOL. So even if you don't care for parts of it, they'll probably be covered up anyway haha.

If I have to replace any parts of my engine when I rebuilt, I'll try that VHT. Thanks for the heads up! I wanna see some pics though haha.

I'm running water to the w/g from the throttle body coolant circuit- the 3/8" pipe off the rear iron and one of the fittings on the water pump housing/water neck where the turbo coolant feeds are as well. I'm going to use something like this:



To convert the hardline to a male AN fitting. It's similar to a plumber fitting that uses a coupler, ferrel, and compression cap to flare the hose end and hold the fitting on. Works great and should work fine in a low compression system like coolant. Hell, I'm using them on the fuel lines too so I'm not worried haha.

Only thing that's pissing me off now is the previous owner of the turbo just used some 90* elbows with hose barbs. I tried to remove them but I just don't have enough room to get a wrench in there without removing either the turbine or compressor housings so I'll have to do that later today. Then I can remove them and install either some banjo style AN fittings or straight NTP to AN fittings and then use 90* AN hose ends.

The paint is just about done curing on the first iron I painted so I'll get some pictures up soon.


Edit: forgot to add Matt stopped by yesterday and I mentioned the rear end of the FD was feeling a little loose, especially at high speeds. We jacked the car up and shook the rear wheels...pillow ball bushings are bad, so looks like I'll be doing those while the car is down now too haha. Atomic Rex has a set for just over $300 which will save me some coin compared to OEM and supposedly last longer.

[speedjunkie]

...i will be looking for a mechanic inclined job so i can get more hands on experience with rotaries since my school only briefly goes over them and focuses more on the v-8's which is understandable.

Just working on your own car should give you a lot of experience haha. You could always help 1st and 3rd gen owners too though, to get experience. That's a win-win haha.

I'm running water to the w/g from the throttle body coolant circuit- the 3/8" pipe off the rear iron and one of the fittings on the water pump housing/water neck where the turbo coolant feeds are as well. I'm going to use something like this:



To convert the hardline to a male AN fitting. It's similar to a plumber fitting that uses a coupler, ferrel, and compression cap to flare the hose end and hold the fitting on. Works great and should work fine in a low compression system like coolant. Hell, I'm using them on the fuel lines too so I'm not worried haha.

Only thing that's pissing me off now is the previous owner of the turbo just used some 90* elbows with hose barbs. I tried to remove them but I just don't have enough room to get a wrench in there without removing either the turbine or compressor housings so I'll have to do that later today. Then I can remove them and install either some banjo style AN fittings or straight NTP to AN fittings and then use 90* AN hose ends.

The paint is just about done curing on the first iron I painted so I'll get some pictures up soon.


Edit: forgot to add Matt stopped by yesterday and I mentioned the rear end of the FD was feeling a little loose, especially at high speeds. We jacked the car up and shook the rear wheels...pillow ball bushings are bad, so looks like I'll be doing those while the car is down now too haha. Atomic Rex has a set for just over $300 which will save me some coin compared to OEM and supposedly last longer.

That's crazy, I've never thought about that kind of fitting connection. But running it from the rear iron you'll be using hot coolant already. I doubt that'll help much haha. The bad thing is there aren't many places to use if you're already cooling your turbo with coolant.

I wish Atomic Rex had those bushings back when I did mine. Eh, I'll just keep stock until they go bad again I guess haha.

[chickenwafer]

The rear iron coolant port is the return IIRC, so it's not that bad. Still, 200-220*F coolant vs sustained 1600-1800*F EGT's? I'll take 200*F coolant haha. It's really just to prevent overheating the rubber diaphragm during sustained high EGT's. Again, I doubt I'll push the w/g that hard, but it's nice to have.

All these AN fittings are adding up though! Just to complete the oil feed/return for my turbo, the coolant for the turbo, and the coolant lines for the w/g I'm looking at $400 in fittings and hose. High initial investment but it will payoff in the long run since these fittings and hose will probably outlast the car.

[speedjunkie]

Actually that nipple goes to the throttle body to warm up the wax for the AWS, then from the TB to the coolant filler neck. But you're right, 200-220 is better than 1000+ lol.

Yeah fittings and hose aren't cheap. It's ridiculous actually.

[chickenwafer]

I knew the nipple on the rear iron was for the thermo wax on the TB but wasn't sure if it was the feed or return...I figured the port on the water neck would be the feed so I don't know honestly haha. I tried to find a coolant flow diagram and I can't right now.

[speedjunkie]

Well the water pump pushes the water back through the engine, and I know some people have brought it up before about finding a way to get cooler water to the rear housing rather than the already warmed water from the front housing. Good point. So yeah, flows from the rear iron to the TB, when stock of course, then to the filler neck. That is where I have my water temp sensor, going from the nipple straight to the filler neck. It IS the feed I guess, depending on how you look at it hahaha. Water is flowing FROM there to the filler neck, but it's not cooled fluid.

[chickenwafer]

Oh yeah, I get what you're saying now, I was talking about flow path and you were talking about temperature. Still, I think at most the coolant will get to 240*F or so, which is still over 5x cooler than the wastegate will see. It will just help avoid high temperature spikes, which I nice.

Just finished up painting my irons. Masking the irons is a MAJOR PITA. I found a quick method by the intermediate plate, however, by using a large sheet of masking paper and placing it over the iron so it covers it completely, then using a straight blade to trace the inner coolant o-ring jacket. This gave me a perfect cutout for the combustion surface and still enough room (between the inner and outer o-ring jackets) to get blue painters tape in and secure the paper. Still annoying, however.

The VHT paint requires curing in an oven at 200*F for an hour, but it also dries extremely quickly It's literally dry to the touch within 3 minutes and cures in 7 hours. You could go from painting engine parts in the morning to assembling an engine with said parts in the late afternoon, the stuff dries and cures hard that quick. I'm pretty impressed with the finish, it's very durable when combined with a few coats of the VHT Engine Enamel Clear.

Enough babbling, here are some quick pics:





And lastly, a quick teaser shot of the finish on my UIM, wrinkle black. This finish is being applied (or already has) to the LIM, the TB, the TB elbow, the UIM, and oil filler cap.

[chickenwafer]

Started to work on my dual Denso Supra TT fuel pump setup today. It was actually surprisingly easy, although I'm not yet finished, but 95% done.

First, the familiar stock fuel pump hanger assembly, with a Denso Supra TT pump already installed (just marginally, if at all, larger than stock):



First mock up or twin pumps. I'm using some rubber toolbox liner (about 4 pieces thick) to isolate vibration/noise between the two pumps, and two large worm-gear drive hose clamps to secure the pumps to each other and to the hanger:





I then cut the fuel feed drop pipe with my hacksaw:





I then used a metal 3/8" wey-pipe from McMastercarr to join the two pumps. Here is the final routing mocked up in standard rubber fuel hose. You can't use normal fuel hose this because the gasoline will eat it from the outside and eventually give it the consistency of a wet noodle. So I need some special "submersible rated fuel hose" that I will pick up this week:



A better close up of the special fitting. It was only $50 bucks for this little specialty piece of aluminum haha:

[speedjunkie]

Those irons look really good! I love that crinkle coat. I might have to steal that still haha.

Will that toolbox liner hold up in the fuel?

I need to build up my fuel setup more too, but I just don't feel like it haha.

[chickenwafer]

Not stealing my paint scheme or I'll just have to get some AME rims! Haha

I hope the rubber does...I don't really have any idea of a substitute rubber item that would work and hold up to gasoline. It the rubber fails it's not like the pumps will fall out or anything, they will just bang against each other and get loud.

[speedjunkie]

That's fine, as a matter of fact, you can buy mine so I can buy the more aggressive sizes they just came out with LOL!

I hear that. It's tough to find something that will hold up to fuel. I'd be afraid they'd clang together and spark or something haha. That's why I've always wondered about whether it's better to just clamp them together with nothing in between or to put something in there.

[chickenwafer]

The fuel pump casing is supposed to be a metal that specifically won't spark (not sure it it's non ferrus of what) for that exact reason haha, just like why the fuel pump hanger bracket has a brass alloy in it to prevent sparking.

I wanted to get a start on wiring the pumps but I need to wait until I have my battery, since it's going in the spare tire well and I'm running a wire directly off it. I'm going to start on the custom engine harness with Matt here soon, however.