Build thread
- chickenwafer
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- Location: Greeley
- speedjunkie
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- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
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RX-7 Chris wrote:Does the FD have a relay for the headlight motors?
Yeah and I took that out and just turned my lights down, and only drove during the day haha. But I put the relay back in today and it was OK again.
However, I haven't been plugging in the battery tender since I've been home because my mom has a carport and I don't want to leave the hatch not closed or the car unlocked overnight, so I've just been popping the breaker. I guess it got too cold last night for the battery and it was pretty low on volts this morning so I had to jump it. I'm getting so aggravated with batteries. For me, small batteries are like abusive relationships. They always claim they're going to change, that this time it'll be different, but it's always the same old routine. At least I think they're saying that. Maybe it's just the voices in my head. In any case, I'm thinking I might just have to bite the bullet and cut the passenger bin out and put the Yellow Top back in. Never had any problems with that battery.
Shadowden wrote:Will you have to adjust the map again once you return to C. Springs? (Assuming so).
Good luck with the show and the dyno testing.
chickenwafer wrote:No he won't have to adjust anything, it was just the over boost fuel cut was set too low for the lower elevation (higher absolute pressure) and I forgot to raise it last tuning session and I thought I had.
Like Dave said, I shouldn't have to. My fuel map is actually alright, I didn't really have to change anything on it. I might change the boost setting back though, just to make sure I don't boost too high. Because my EBC isn't really controlling anything haha. I'm going to look into that too actually.
How is everything going at sea level?
I don't feel like going the whole way back through your car's odyssey, so which small battery are you running? I seem to recall a Braille. I realize that the braille is great for weight savings, but does it really matter for running the mountains and cruising through town?
During the winter, or in your situation now, you coulsd always remove the battery and keep it on a tender inside with the door locked. Kind of a PIA to lose any electronic settings though? Could you put a secondary battery in and wire it in series to the small battery for cold months?
Sorry, just thinking out loud. Probably not very interesting alternatives.
I don't feel like going the whole way back through your car's odyssey, so which small battery are you running? I seem to recall a Braille. I realize that the braille is great for weight savings, but does it really matter for running the mountains and cruising through town?
During the winter, or in your situation now, you coulsd always remove the battery and keep it on a tender inside with the door locked. Kind of a PIA to lose any electronic settings though? Could you put a secondary battery in and wire it in series to the small battery for cold months?
Sorry, just thinking out loud. Probably not very interesting alternatives.
- speedjunkie
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- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
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Things down here are good. Although my idle is hunting again, started a couple days after getting here. I'm hoping it goes away once I get back up to altitude. Also, I punched it yesterday in 3rd and I didn't get traction the whole time I don't think lol.
I'm running the same exact setup as Dave, battery wise. Braille of some kind lol. I don't have it just for weight savings, I did it for space also, that way I could mount it on it's side in the spare tire well like Dave. I already have a battery tender on it, and I have a breaker on it also, so losing electronics settings doesn't bother me much. I also made little bars that are bolted onto the battery terminals so I don't have to remove my plastic cover in order to jump the car.
Anyway, I determined that I can close my hatch all the way and it doesn't hurt the power cable for the tender, so I just close the hatch and plug in it now.
I'm running the same exact setup as Dave, battery wise. Braille of some kind lol. I don't have it just for weight savings, I did it for space also, that way I could mount it on it's side in the spare tire well like Dave. I already have a battery tender on it, and I have a breaker on it also, so losing electronics settings doesn't bother me much. I also made little bars that are bolted onto the battery terminals so I don't have to remove my plastic cover in order to jump the car.
Anyway, I determined that I can close my hatch all the way and it doesn't hurt the power cable for the tender, so I just close the hatch and plug in it now.
- speedjunkie
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speedjunkie wrote:I have a bunch of really good pics taken by guys here at home, but the internet here is slow as shit right now so I'll post them up when I get a better connection.

[font="Century Gothic"]APR 4 Program Tune - AEM CAI - Vogtland Suspension
JVC KW-NX7000bt HU - eD 6500 Front Comps - cDT EF-61's Rear fill -IDMAX 10" sub-
JL 1000/1 - JL 450/4 [/font]
Past:
Current:

JVC KW-NX7000bt HU - eD 6500 Front Comps - cDT EF-61's Rear fill -IDMAX 10" sub-
JL 1000/1 - JL 450/4 [/font]
Past:
Current:

- speedjunkie
- Senior Member
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- speedjunkie
- Senior Member
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- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:14
- Location: Colorado Springs
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Your avatar does not do your car justice. The thing is beautiful. First full size pics I have seen.
You need to get that thing 100% reliable and get it out a ton next year.
I like that rear diffuser too. Is it a combination of aluminum and composite (FRP?)?
That is a good looking cemetary too. Odd, I know, but old established cemetaries are pretty amazing.
You need to get that thing 100% reliable and get it out a ton next year.
I like that rear diffuser too. Is it a combination of aluminum and composite (FRP?)?
That is a good looking cemetary too. Odd, I know, but old established cemetaries are pretty amazing.
- speedjunkie
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Well it's pretty reliable now, enough to drive cross country lol. But my radiator is still leaking and I'm pissed with that whole situation.
Diffuser is FRP but has aluminum pieces riveted to the bottom side for when it contacts the ground.
The cemetery is right next to my moms house. Andrew said he likes shooting mean looking cars in cemeteries lol.
Diffuser is FRP but has aluminum pieces riveted to the bottom side for when it contacts the ground.
The cemetery is right next to my moms house. Andrew said he likes shooting mean looking cars in cemeteries lol.
speedjunkie wrote:Well it's pretty reliable now, enough to drive cross country lol. But my radiator is still leaking and I'm pissed with that whole situation.
Diffuser is FRP but has aluminum pieces riveted to the bottom side for when it contacts the ground.
The cemetery is right next to my moms house. Andrew said he likes shooting mean looking cars in cemeteries lol.
That isn't the new radiator though. The new one will be fine...I hope.
Yeah., I was thinking the aluminum pieces may accelerate the exit rate of the undercar flow stream, but I doubt they would do very much since they don't significantly decrease the area through which the air is exiting. The whole Asuv1Vsub1=Asub2Vsub2 thing...which basically says that if you decrease the area of the exit side of the diffuser, then the air needs to accelerate to a higer velocity so that the rules of fluid dynamics are followed.

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