My new car!

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:14

Yeah i did, is 719-205-8604. With the wheel will be a lot easier. I didn't have to much carbon on mine though.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:14

Cool man thanks, I will try the bucket and carb cleaner. If it doesn't work as well as I hope I'll bust out the wire wheel and brushes.

GR-8 · Postby **GR-8** » Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:14

Cool. To bad I couldn't make it out to help watch.

Glad everything looks to be in good shape.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 9:14

RX-7 Chris wrote:isn't that the crankcase vent?

chickenwafer wrote:Yes, I believe it is.

Uh oh.

RX-7 Chris wrote:Why would someone block the crankcase vent? Usually not a good thing.

Actually I've had my capped for quite a while, back when this engine was originally in the car, and I didn't have any problems. The filler neck also serves as a vent too though, and that's what I've been using. Maybe I'll pop the cap off this one too though and see what happens.

chickenwafer wrote:^It's really that easy? I was all worried I was going to have to grab a copper wheel for my bench grinder and spend 5 days cleaning them. Thanks for the tip!

I think I read somewhere that the rotors have a special coating on them that can be taken off with wire brushes and all that...unfortunately I read this AFTER I took a wire brush to my rotors already haha. I could be wrong though, not sure.

VRx8 wrote:Yeah i did, is 719-205-8604.

Thanks! Updated haha.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 9:14

speedjunkie wrote:I think I read somewhere that the rotors have a special coating on them that can be taken off with wire brushes and all that...unfortunately I read this AFTER I took a wire brush to my rotors already haha. I could be wrong though, not sure.

I don't believe this to be true. Every professional who rebuilds these motors for a living I've talked to says to used a wire brush to clean them if they are heavily carboned. Use a copper brush if possible.

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Fri Aug 19, 2011 9:14

chickenwafer wrote:I don't believe this to be true. Every professional who rebuilds these motors for a living I've talked to says to used a wire brush to clean them if they are heavily carboned. Use a copper brush if possible.

+1 I've seen people using the wire wheel on them.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 9:14

The group buy finally got in motion so I ordered my v-mount today. Went with the Defined Autoworks kit. Can't beat the deal- it includes all the standard v-mount affair (radiator, intercooler, plumbing) plus everything is mounted on heavy duty steel mounts with rubber isolators to prevent cracking of the cores.

The kit also includes ducting, which is the key to an effective v-mount, and is one of the only kits out there to do so. I also got the optional A/C brackets so I can attempt to retain my A/C system.

I'm pretty stoked! The build is making slow but steady progress.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 9:14

Is that GB on 7club? I'm DEFINITELY getting in on that. I need to see some pics of the mounts though, because I don't want it to interfere with my front tow hook.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sun Aug 21, 2011 9:14

In the GB section they install instructions that show good pictures of how it all mounts up

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon Aug 22, 2011 9:14

Stripped all emissions stuff from the UIM and LIM today. The ACV system was CAKED with oil sludge all inside the LIM. It's such a narrow passageway I'm not sure how I can effectively clean it...pipe cleaner perhaps?

After I got all the emissions stuff off, double-nutted the studs and removed them, then installed the Banzai block off plates with some gasket goo. Also put blue Loctite on the Banzai-supplied bolts to ensure they won't back out.

The only item I didn't delete in the Banzai kit was the ISC (Idle Speed Control) so I can still maintain a somewhat acceptable idle. So I deleted the AWS, AWS Tube, ACV, ACV tube, thermowax, double throttle (the butterflies in the UIM were a BITCH!), split air, and EGR.

Also might be picking up an FD part for a steal pretty soon...

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Mon Aug 22, 2011 9:14

chickenwafer wrote: double throttle (the butterflies in the UIM were a BITCH!), split air, and EGR..

Who are you telling a tried to use a screwdriver and i stripped the bolts, ended up drilling them.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon Aug 22, 2011 9:14

Haha yeah me as well. I used a screwdriver and it stripped them, even tapping the screwdriver with a hammer did nothing, just stripped them The bolts have massive thread locking compound on them (as I've been told) because you obviously don't want them popping out and flying into your motor. But really, Mazda should have used allen head cap bolts or something other than a phillips head!

I had to drill them out as well.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Wed Aug 24, 2011 9:14

From what I understand, if your engine is ported, you don't really NEED the ISC. Or so I was told when I put mine in back in 2008. I still have mine on though. I didn't really see a need to delete it either so I kept it.

I got my throttle plates out without drilling, but I almost had to haha.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:14

Yeah I probably don't need the ISC, but I figure I can keep it and see how my idle is with it. If it makes no difference, I'll yank it out. But I think it will help product a more stable idle, for sure.

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:14

I deleted all that crap.

My new car!

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