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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:14

Chance wrote:So like......first things first, get a dual oil cooler setup because rotary engines are oil cooled haha

whats really the benefit of running e85 versus say c16 or some other race fuel?


Haha, R1 dual coolers are in the works, or a giant single Mocal cooler.

Well that's just it- E85 is basically C16 but:

1) it street legal (technically C16 isn't legal for road use)

2)It's FAR cheaper, like $1.85/gal so it's even cheaper than premium 91 cat piss and C16 is what, $15/gal? Or close to that

3)While E85 isn't everywhere, it's still more readily available at local gas stations than C16.

4) Driving a car around on C16 isn't practical at all- you're looking at $150+ to fill up your tank and there are only a select few gas stations that sell it. Just not practical.

5) E85 also more cooling effect than C16 or any race gas- the high ethanol content significantly cools down your intake charge so much so engines that were once dependent on water/meth injection can forgo it, and even low-boost, highly efficient turbo cars can forgo an intercooler! It cools your IATs that much

E85 still has a lot of draw backs, mainly:

1) It's still not available everywhere, so it you plan road trips, long drives, etc it can be a pain. The good news is could drain your fuel tank and fill up with pump gas in a pitch (But make sure your fuel system is as dry as possible...you don't want to mix high quantities of E85 and pump gas) and then, this is the important part, load a new map on your EMS for pump gas, and you could drive along.

2) E85 is highly corrosive, so if you have an older car it can easily rust out your fuel tank, hard fuel lines, rails, sensors, etc. When switching to E85 it's best to redo your entire fuel system- new pump(s), braided fuel-rated AN hose, new FPR, new rails, and of course new injectors. In some cases you may even need an aluminum fuel cell if the stock tank can't handle the high ethanol content.

3) E85 has about 70% of the power of regular pump gas, so it requires a roughly 30-35% larger fuel system to make the same power on pump gas.

4) Due to needing a larger fuel system, fuel mileage is slightly poorer with E85 than regular pump fuel. I drive an FD that gets stupid low fuel mileage as it is, so it's not a big deal for me, and I don't drive the car that often. The good news is E85 is roughly 40% cheaper than pump gas so in the long run it's actually cheaper to run than pump gas after being offset by the lower per gallon price.

5) E85 also sucks on cold starts, anything below 32*F at least, some even have problems at >40*F. For me, it's not a big deal since I rarely (if ever) will drive the car in the winter. But if you are converting your DD or a car that will see cold action then it's something to consider. Some have figured out how to get E85 cars to start easier in cold temperatures but it's not an exact science...yet. In Brazil, where every car sold now is E85, they actually have a separate mini fuel tank that holds a few gallons of pump fuel for cold starts- the car automatically switches to pump gas in cold starts to aid in starting, then once the engine is warmed up the fuel system is switched over to E85.

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Chance
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Postby Chance » Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:14

Yeah......after all the cons, I will keep the c16 in my white car haha

I will say that I made a car with no cats and a lot of power pass emissions with some e85 in the tank.....but the whole searching for it shit basically turns me off of it.


Also, tune wise, I would never buy e85 or pump gas thats the main reason race fuel is a must in my white car
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Postby Colombia28 » Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:14

So clean! Congrats.
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Postby speedjunkie » Tue Apr 13, 2010 9:14

Hey Dave, you might want to look into Setrab coolers instead of Mocal. I've had a set of Mocals for a couple years now, and for about half that time I've had leaking/seeping. I've replaced the main culprit with a brand new one and it STILL has a problem. I've had problems with the fittings being dinked up, and because the fittings are built into the Mocals, I had to buy a whole new cooler. Well not anymore. I bought a couple Setrabs recently because they have fittings that separate, so if I get one messed up now it only costs me about $30 rather than $180 for a whole new cooler. Just a thought.
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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Wed Apr 14, 2010 9:14

Cool, thanks for the tip Eric. I was looking into Setrab's and Fluidyne oil coolers too.

I just want to put a single big one in the stock location really, I have my water/meth pump mounted in the second oil cooler location so if I did put one there it would need to be smaller.

Right now I am struggling mainly over how to cool my FD- Koyo N-Flo radiator and ETS FMIC OR RX7Store.net v-mount.

The v-mount makes me need to relocate my battery, which I didn't want to do but I can, and makes keeping the A/C a pain (which I want to keep). I've also heard for fitment issues with a lot of v-mounts.

The ETS FMIC is a high quality kit, and paired with a good radiator like the Koyo N-Flo it will keep temps down. Only problem is the ETS FMIC requires removal of the crash bar...

And I finally decided on what wheels I want, WORK Meister S1 3-piece 18x9 +20 front and 18x10 +18 rear, now only if had $5,000 for the rims and tires.....ehhh looks like I will keep looking haha.

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Postby Chance » Wed Apr 14, 2010 9:14

my battery works fine with my v-mount.....and my setup takes up a LOT of room.
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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Wed Apr 14, 2010 9:14

Well the kit I am eying specifically says you must relocate the battery...but your intercooler looks pretty horizontal, you really want your vmount setup to look as much like < as possible.

I am also interested in the HKS V-mount, but at $2400 I hope it includes a radiator

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Postby Voodoo » Wed Apr 14, 2010 9:14

actually chances is setup is ideal for airflow. since it flows in to the intercooler instead of into a corner weld like most v mount setups.

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Postby Chance » Wed Apr 14, 2010 9:14

Its REALLY not horizontal haha Look at how high the front of the intercooler is in relation the the headlight covers, then look how the back portion is at the same level as the hks filter. VERY v-mount, and has to be because of the ducting on the car
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Postby speedjunkie » Wed Apr 14, 2010 9:14

^Corner weld?

David, my VMIC keeps all my temps REALLY low. I did have to go to a smaller battery, but then I went with a normal size battery a relocated it and it's great. I did ditch my A/C though, mostly because I couldn't figure out how to mount certain pieces of it with the VMIC, but I think the kit was made to keep the A/C if you want to. I also removed the crash bar, if it's the part I think you're talking about lol.
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Chance
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Postby Chance » Wed Apr 14, 2010 9:14

You can always pick up a braille battery if you are worried about it, or just modify where it sits in the car or the piping.

Also, my v-mount setup doesnt make any difference in cooling, the oil cooler setup did however.

V-mount setups increase boost response, if they are done right, you can also save your turbo and make it live a lot longer
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Postby speedjunkie » Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:14

Yeah I had an Odyssey PC680, now I have an Optima Yellowtop mounted in the hatch, but I kinda wish I'd gone with the smaller yellowtop and put it in the storage bin for lower center of gravity.

I forgot to mention about IC sizing too, but I figure you already knew about that Dave lol. I think mine is too big and I'm thinking of moving to a bit smaller, or thinner at least. But for stock turbos I'd stick with one that's still fairly small for better response. I was going to put my kit on with my stock twins and people thought I was crazy lol.
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chickenwafer
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Postby chickenwafer » Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:14

What vmount setup do you have, Eric?

Oh yeah, my sunroof switch decided to die yesterday so my sunroof got stuck fully open...luckily I was one the way home so no big deal. I was able to use a 4mm allen wrench to manually crank it shut then I decided to mess with the switch. It would only open so I knew the motor was good but the switch had an issue. I got it apart, cleaned it, and apparently messed it up more because the switch was constantly making the sunroof try to open!

So I reopened the switch, and now it doesn't work at all haha. In fact, I hope I didn't mess anything up because now the motor makes a very odd noise when I try to open it again, like "ehhh" instead of "wroooom". I probed the contacts with my multimeter and I have 12v going into the switch but when I move it only 5v coming out, so I believe/hope the switch is just fried.

I'm ordering a new map pocket/switch thing next weekend so hopefully my sunroof will operate.

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Postby speedjunkie » Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:14

I have the Rotary Extreme monster VMIC kit. I got it used from someone on 7club though, and I got it like 4 years ago and finally put it in when I did the single swap in 08.

My sunroof switch has never worked completely. When I open it, I have to assist the sunroof in popping up out of the hole, but then it works alright, just not very fast/strong. And it closes ok too.

Maybe I should take my switch out and see what's up...or maybe I shouldn't, judging from your results lol.
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Postby chickenwafer » Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:14

Yeah, don't do it haha. I'm just hoping my poking around didn't fry the motor. I doubt it, the fuse would have popped (hopefully)


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