My new car!

[chickenwafer]

So, just little updates here...today was the Anniversary when I purchased my car! I've had her for 1 full year now...can't believe it's been that long!

Anyways, with the mods I have, I was getting boost creep BADDD. My boost pattern was something like 10-10-15, with the secondary hitting hard. Fuel cut is 15psi, so I would get cut at 5000rpm. I got used to just short shifting and dealing with it.

Then I was reading various MBC installs and remembered the "pills" (restrictors) in the hoses from the turbo pre-control w/g actuator and w/g actuator (primary and secondary actuators). Since I was only overboosting on the secondary, I removed my intakes and the removed the baked-on hose to the w/g actuator for the secondary, cut it open and pulled the pill out. It was a much greater (smaller hole) restriction that I anticipated.

I used a new piece of blue silicone hose I had laying around and hooked it up with no pill, put everything back together and went for a spin. Boost pattern was now 8-7-9 or so, so a little lower than what I wanted, although acceptable, and no more fuel cut.

Today Matt (Alpha) came over and we messed with different pill sizes by drilling out stock pills or using various welding tips I had and drilling them out. I drilled out my old pill and put it in the w/g hose and bam, roughly 9psi off the primary, 8psi transition, and 11psi off the secondary. Still hauls balls, but now no more fuel cut. For a free mod, I liked it. I would still like 3psi more on the primary and about 1psi more on the secondary, but again, for free, I'll take it.

I am pretty sure I will now get two MBC's and plumb them in replacement of the pills and cap off the w/g actuators vents, thus bypassing the factory boost control solenoids. This will give me full control over the boosting of the twins, and I'll have separate adjusters for both primary and secondary turbos. This will allow me to really dial in the boost pattern.

Other than that, not much going on. I am getting ready for passing evil, evil emissions this March. I'm getting a universal Magnaflow California emissions legal catalytic converter and hoping that will be the ticket to getting me to pass. I may put the stock catback on as well, can't hurt. Since I'll have the dual manual boost controllers then, I'll also adjust them all the way down so the jackass testing it doesn't go boost crazy.

[speedjunkie]

Have you seen the mod where you use carb jets to replace the pills? I did that and it worked for me. I still have the excess jets somewhere, I can probably find them if you want them in the mean time. Or you can look it up on 7club and get them at an auto parts store for pretty cheap too.

[chickenwafer]

That makes sense. I just used welding tips because they're cheap and I had some laying around. Right now I have the stock pre-control pill in, and a drilled-out secondary pill.

I'm also pretty sure we discovered why Matt's car would idle filthy rich (10.5:1 at idle!). I disconnected the electrical connector to my air pump and bam, my car started doing the same thing. Plugged it back in and it smoothed right out, idling around 14.8-15.2. He has the factory ECU as well.

So I'm not sure why or how, but the air pump somehow makes the idle more friendly. I think this may be a setting within the ECU, rather than anything mechanical. The ECU sees the air pump needs to be on, and introduces some kind of new idle scheme. Another thought was perhaps if the air pump isn't connected to the ECU, it thinks the cat will fry so it richens up the mixture? Who knows, this is a 17 year old car and we're still discovering things the factory ECU does that no one knew just a few months ago.

As far as manual boost controllers go, anyone have any recommendations? I am debating between the GrimmSpeed MBC or the Hallman Pro RX kit:

GrimmSpeed:



Hallman Pro RX:



They are about the same cost, so no big winner there. I like how the GrimmSpeed is slightly more compact, and it has detents so the knob clicks as you spin it. According to GrimmSpeed, each click is roughly 1/4 psi. Not sure how accurate this is. I've heard good and bad things about MBC's with clicking knobs...sometimes the setting you need is in-between a click. But I like how the GrimmSpeed also has measurements/indicators on the side so it makes it easier to move around between settings and go back and fourth while making adjustments. i.e. I go for a run, hit 8psi so I want more, adjust the MBC's, then I hit 14psi, so I want to back it down but not too far. With the GrimmSpeed I can see the measurements, I like that.

The Hallman Pro RX kit was basically designed for FD's with it's light tension spring and quick responding ceramic ball. I also like how I can get each in a different color (purple and black) so I can tell the difference between pre-control and turbo-control actuators easier. Although this isn't a huge deal.

[chickenwafer]

Oh yeah, my oil pan is also leaking like a bitch now, I lost over a quart of oil in only 20 miles of driving but in 3 weeks of sitting. Most of it was on my garage floor! I guess it doesn't help my twins smoke like a redneck's 1980's TransAm, either.

I'm getting fed up with it and I want to reseal the pan, but that pretty much involves motor pulling to do it right, or doing all the work in a very tight space. Ugh.

[speedjunkie]

I like the Grimmspeed controller but if the Hallman is mechanically better, i.e. responds quicker, I'd get that one. Although not having the clicking or the measurements sucks.

As far as the oil pan...if you get a pan brace (I'll be using the Garfinkle brace because I hear it's the best) you can put it on without pulling the engine. We installed one on Corey's by pulling the engine up, unbolting the mounts (because you'll have to anyway) and you can barely slip it in there with the pan still on. For both our sakes I hope they work LOL.

[chickenwafer]

Everything I read says you need the motor out of the car to install a brace and reseal the pan...I'll have to look myself. I would need to pull the pan and reseal it with new silicone, then install it and then the brace. Is there room to drop the pan with the motor still in? Obviously with it hoisted up and the mounts off but still bolted to the trans?

[speedjunkie]

I don't remember if you can get the pan out because we didn't take it out, all we did was add the brace IIRC. So I'm not sure on that. I don't think you can get the pan all the way out though.

[chickenwafer]

Ordered my universal Magnaflow California legal cat today in a hope to getting my FD to pass evil, evil emissions this March. I also originally had planned on welding v-band flanges to the cat, and to the piece of straight pipe I remove from my midpipe, so I could easily swap between a cat and straight pipe just by undoing two v-band clamps.

Well, I only need the cat in for emissions, so this has quickly become pointless and more effort than it's worth. So I'm going to get the cat welded into the straight pipe and pick up a resonated midpipe from RX7Store. The resonator should help keep my loud add exhaust quite, too.

So with a new CA-legal cat and a fresh set of NGK 9's leading/trailing, I am crossing fingers I will pass emissions.

I'm also considering purchasing these...too bad they cost as much as a small car:

[mog1017]

Oooooo.....me likey!

[speedjunkie]

Yeah those seats are super nice, I wish I could afford them. Although I'd like to keep reclining as an option for accessing the rear bins. I hope those seats sit a lot lower because you lose the option of reclining to get more headroom as well haha.

You got me thinking about the coilovers too. I think I'll sell mine to Zico if he wants them and buy those ones you're talking about. Just too nice to pass up. They have everything I was looking for when I got mine.

Oh, I found those jets for the vacuum lines too if you want them.

Also, on the v-band clamps, I find them to be more of a pain then nuts and bolts. Maybe that's just me though.

[chickenwafer]

Well the Recaros have the tilt rails so they pivot under your ***, almost like reclining. And they do sit considerably lower...Rich was telling me they basically touch the floor.

I really, really do want them, but they are just a stupid amount of coin, I don't think I can justify them.

The coilovers I'm picking up are Stance AL+ Pro. They are the same as the GR+Pro model, so 15-way adjustable compression and obviously adjustable spring perch for preload, threaded body for adjustable height, integrated top pillowball mount, etc, except they are constructed of aircraft grade billet machined aluminum. Obviously that means they're much lighter and corrosion resistant. I can't wait to get 'em.

Oh yeah Eric, I was wrong about the spring rates, they're 12k front/rear, so a little more stiff that I was looking for. I think I will contact Stance directly and see if they can change them to 10k/8k front/rear.

So I just ordered the resonated midpipe from RX7Store, hopefully it quiets down my exhaust to a tolerable level.

[speedjunkie]

When I bought mine I asked about getting 10k/8k and they said it would cost more because they'd have to be revalved for those spring rates. You can go 2k up or down from their valving (in this case 12k) without damaging the coilovers. Past that and you'll have to pay extra to get them custom.

I was going to tell you that I always wanted to swap Swift springs onto mine but never got around to measuring my springs to see what size to get. That and I wasn't sure it would be worth getting them since I'm still running 12/10.

I have the RX7store midpipe and it's even quieter than 2 other resonators TOGETHER that I was going to put in. I think you'll like it.

Those seats might be worth it Grape Ape. LOL

[chickenwafer]

Grape Ape? ROFL

I'm probably passing on the seats. With gas prices on the rise I'm looking to sell The Beast (my DD F350 truck) that guzzles gas like a whore at a college kegger and get something a little more thrifty. I've really been meaning to do it for a while so I'm trying to save up some extra cash (while still saving for a wedding, a honeymoon, and oh yeah, parts for the FD ) to pick up a new car.

As for as coilovers go, I was also looking at the Pettit Trak Pro Stage 2's:
http://shop.pettitracing.com/pettit_racing/pettit_racing_trak_pro_coilovers/tkpfds3/i-389599.aspx
They features the more desirable 8k/10k rear/front spring rates, still have 24-way compression adjusters, and feature machined anodized billet aluminum bodies. They also have isolated rubber top mounts instead of pillow balls.

I'm interested, but there are some mixed reviews on 7club, namely that they are contracted out to a Taiwanese company so the build quality could be suspect. And, apparently the rear coilovers have problems being adjusted low, so if you want to slam your FD, these probably aren't for you. I'm now out there to win any fitment competitions or be features in a Hella Flush video, but ride height is important to me, and I don't want these coilovers bottoming out on the bump stops because I have them adjusted too low.

Besides those concerns, a lot of users do seem to enjoy them and there really is no negative feedback about the performance of them. Ride comfort is good and handling is superb. My biggest concerns is build quality (these are brand new, so no one has had them for too long) and height adjustment.

And oh yeah, Pettit charges $180 for UPS ground on these? They're just coming from Florida, I shipped a set of Koni shocks to NY when I parted my 8 for $35 bucks...

[speedjunkie]

Well I've kinda compared your size to an ape's for a while now, and Grape Ape was the only thing I could think of LOL.

So what are you looking to get as a DD? The new Passat gets 43mpg and it's only $20k, so that has me, Simon AND Zico all curious about it haha.

I saw the Trak Pros but I didn't do any research into them. I'd be wary of Taiwanese-built myself. Oh, one thing about the Stance coilovers is I have a problem getting my rears low enough too. They get close, but I'd like it a little lower. I had them all the way bottomed out and they were just a little too high still. Everything else about those Trak Pros sounds pretty good though. $180 is ridiculous for shipping though. Yikes.

[chickenwafer]

So I took page from Eric's book and decided to reinstall my cruise control. I ditched it when I installed my aftermarket steering wheel since the buttons are integrated to the OEM wheel. But then I saw Eric retrofitted his buttons so I decided I would too (I'm a copy cat).

Another problem was I mounted my water/meth control box in the cruise control module location under the hood, so I had to do some rearranging. This took much longer than expected. I ended up making a new bracket for the ignition coil ignitor and bolted in the cruise control module. I also painted the bracket for the module to make it look a little cleaner:



I then couldn't really find any place I wanted to mount the buttons, except to keep it semi-OEM looking and mount it by the steering wheel for convenience:



I modified the OEM bracket that mounts the cruise control buttons to the steering wheel so it now bolts to the NRG hub. The single bolt holds it just fine, the entire assembly weights less than 100 grams:



Wiring was pretty easy but I did have to extend the wires, so I disassembled the control buttons, cut them, the soldered and heat shrunk extensions:



This also served a dual purpose because I didn't want to hack a huge hole in the hub cover for the big OEM connector, so I just slid the cut wires through a hole I drilled. This kept it smaller and cleaner IMO:



Then the assembly all soldered up, this still retains the OEM connector so it's simple Plug-n-Play for easy dis-assembly, except the hub shroud must come with it:



And the switch assembled with the bracket installed:



Then the switches installed on the hub and the wires ran. I think it turned out really clean with the heat shrunk harness and small hole in the hub shroud:



And the final result:



Took it for a test drive and it works just like factory, no issues at all. It's funny though, because after all that work, I'm not sure I want to keep it haha. I think it doesn't look that good with the wheel disconnected on the quick release. With the wheel on, it looks good (almost OEM) but I just think it looks weird without the wheel.

Except now my twins are smoking even MORE oil than ever before, to the point where I think I'll run out of oil. It's only after I haul *** then let off the throttle then I get the smoke, and a LOT for it. It's actually pretty embarrassing. Not sure if I even want to go on the cruise now because the amount of oil is crazy.