My new car!

[chickenwafer]

LOL, I have noticed that! Same with RX-8s, almost EVERY 20B RX-8 is in Florida.

I don't think I'm going to rock a 20B anytime soon, tho. It's just something in the back of my head. The biggest problem is I would need about $12k just to get the car drivable under it's own power with the 20B!

So, the 20B is on hold for sure, LOL, but I'm not dismissing it altogether, yet.

Also, looks like I scored a GReddy Airnix intake and JDM Efini Y-Pipe, both polished, from a guy on 7Club. I feel more comfortable buying hard parts off forums now, not as easy to break/screw up than electronics LOL.

[speedjunkie]

I think they grow on trees down there lol. I wonder where the turbo-producing trees are. Or the APEX'i PFC-producing trees LOL.

Yeah 20Bs are usually for people that have some money laying around and decide they need an insane amount of HP all of a sudden LOL.

I agree with you there, hard parts are a lot easier to spot when they're bad lol.

[chickenwafer]

So I've been planing out my Winter 2010/11 project list, thus far I have a pretty huge list LOL. Basically the car will be like brand new when it rolls outta the garage in late March/Early April.

One thing I am still trying to decide to whether or not to keep the keep the factory twins sequential or non-sequential. I'm not going single turbo (yet) so I am keeping the twins for another year or so at least.

Sequential is nice, but non-seq is just so much easier and less of a hassle to deal with. No more solenoid, random non-boost issues, and the like. But, keeping it seq allows me to spool about 1200rpm quicker, as well.

Also decided I'm going to semi half-*** the fuel system and just drop in some 1300cc rebuild secondary injectors for the extra fueling along with the Supra TT Denso pump, so hopefully I can pass 325-350rwhp. My next limitation would be the clutch at that point, as the FD clutch starts to slip around 365-375 horse.

[speedjunkie]

Sequential, definitely.

And 1300 secondaries with the Supra pump should be plenty for now. When I went single I assumed I needed 850/1600 so I bought all the stuff and then I found out I should have been good with just adding 1300s to the stock secondary rails and keeping the 550 primaries, meaning I could have skipped a whole lot of extra cost. I about flipped my lid LOL.

[chickenwafer]

Haha.

Well, it's only another $60 to have the primary rail modded to fit the stock side feed 850cc secondaries, which will give me another 400cc/min of fueling over the stock 550cc's.

However, according to this calculator: http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx, 1300cc secondaries and stock 550cc primaries will be good enough for about 405 crank horsepower, using a BSFC of .7 because rotaries require more fuel per airflow than typical piston engines. But for only $60 bucks to get my primary rail machined to fit the stock secondaries, I might as well do it haha.

I really want to stay sequential...I saw a guy on 7club hit 398rwhp with untouched/unmodified stock FD twins (well, ported w/g, but that's it) running sequentially.

I still kind of feel that people to who go non-seq only really do it because either 1) they can't properly diagnose/figure out the overly complicated OEM sequential system, so their solution is to just rip it out (kinda half *** IMO), or 2) They can/did properly diagnose the stock system, but it's too expensive/difficult to replace everything to get it working properly again, only to have it fail again, or 3) They are tired of getting random no boost situations and just want a dead-nuts reliable turbos system.

See, reason #3 I can fully understand. I sometimes I have weird random no-boost issues, but I think I know why. When I first warm the car up and start driving, the very first time I go into boost, I only get 5psi, all the way through the RPM range. Even if I shift into another gear (like going from 2nd-3rd), I still only get 5psi and the car feels like a toad.

But then once I let off the throttle, go into deep vacuum, and then go into boost again, I get full boost (pattern is about 11-10-12) and the car hauls ***. I believe it is because the vacuum/pressure chamber for the actuators isn't getting charged fully until I pull a significant amount of vacuum, like >20".

Anyways, that's my take on it. So I can fully understand why some people go non-seq, but since I have a 99.99% working seq system right now, I will keep it until either something breaks, I get random no-boost situations, or I just want to try something else.

[chickenwafer]

Opps, I was mistaken about the injector upgrades.

If I got the 1300cc secondaries, they need my stock 850's to mod them to flow 1300cc. So I would need to get the primary machined for $80 bucks, PLUS buy new 850cc injectors to drop in, which would be about another $300- so really another $380-$400 bucks, unless I find some for a good deal on 7club used.

So it looks like I will just stick with 1300cc secondaries for now, and upgrade the primaries later.

[speedjunkie]

Someone hit 398rwhp on stock twins?! What PSI?

I had the same issues with my twins, but it was ALL the time, not just when the engine was cool. I rigged up some caps for the turbos, one with an air compressor nipple, and we did boost tests but found no leak. So, I went single HAHA.

I do know that right after I passed the break in mileage on the engine, with the stock twins, in NC, it HAULED. More than I ever thought stock twins could. I pulled on my buddy with the LS1 by quite a bit. And with Dad in the car the night before we left, this Mustang was messing with me and not letting me over in front of him, so I gunned it and it actually lifted the front of the car quite a bit. It shocked me, my Dad, AND the dude in the stang LOL. But on my way to CO it got sluggish.

[chickenwafer]

Well, he actually made 402-rwhp/368 ft-lbs of tq on STOCK fd twins, running sequential. Guy's name is TitaniumTT, he's mostly on RCC but he's on 7club too. Now this was on a built 13b-RE motor, not an REW, but it was OEM fresh REW twins he used. The motor was also in an FC and ran by a MoTeC. Nonetheless, it shows the potential of the twins.

The record for stock twins IIRC is around 418rwhp, some guy on 7club did that a few years ago. Running non-seq, ported w/g, etc, but factory manifold (cleaned up since it was non-seq), ceramic coated, etc. That's why I'm not sure if I want the BNR twins or not, since the most they've made is 421rwhp/378tq IIRC.

I think keeping the stock primaries and running 1300cc secondaries will be enough fuel. It's enough to max out the stock clutch/pressure plate, which I don't have enough coin to replace right now after all the other parts, so it will work. I want the Exedy twin disc clutch/pressure plate/flywheel combo kit, and it's $1550 bucks haha. But it's the best clutch out that still "streetable". You get OEM clutch like engagement, but it can handle 750+ft lbs of torque. Good enough for built 20B guys, good enough for me!

[speedjunkie]

Oh I know who you're talking about. I see him on RCC all the time. I didn't remember that it was on an RE though. I've heard those can make more power than the RE.

These guys making that much power run about 17psi right? I remember there being a discussion about that a few years ago.

Corey had the BNR Stage 3 setup on his. I think he liked them. I was kinda looking at an Exedy clutch, but it's the stage 2 clutch. Not a bad price and it will take more tq than the ACT clutches. Or so I've read on websites anyway. I had friends in Japan that ran twin plate clutches and they were hard as hell to disengage.

[chickenwafer]

Hadn't heard that about the twin disc clutches. I will have to look into then. You are talking about just the normal single disc Exedy clutches then?

[Chance]

twin and triple plates are too aggressive for ANY car you will drive on the street.

Singles are even a bit excessive in most cases. If your car doesn't have 500+ hp you don't need it.....unless its a race car that is

[chickenwafer]

I mainly just don't want to get a puck-type clutch, I want a full face clutch disc.

[Chance]

Why? My act 6puck is just fine and I actually beat on it. I have an OS Giken sitting in my garage so when I kill the act clutch I will put that in but I don't know if that will be happening any time soon

[chickenwafer]

Harsh engagement. I driven many cars with puck-type clutches and I never liked them. They generally have less holding power than full face clutches, too, which is why manufactures put stupid strong pressure plates on them to keep them clamped.

The main reason/use of a puck-style clutch is for weight reduction. They have less surface area, therefore less mass, and rotating mass is a big ticket to eliminate. But not having much surface area is a catch 22, because they then sacrifice grip.

I've been looking into ACT clutches, has I had one on my 8 and loved it (felt nearly stock), but I've heard they don't hold well on FD's. On 8's some people were running SPEC clutches and liked them, but apparently everyone who owns an FD thinks they're trash. So I'm at a crossroads of clutch options, LOL

It's not a pending desicion, anyways, as I can't really afford one until summer time, next year. I have too much other stuff to purchase in the meantime. Hopefully my current clutch will hold up to 350-365rwhp of twin sequential turbocharged rotary goodness

[Chance]

As long as you don't heat it up it will, my act holds pletny of power without batting an eyelash and its not harsh AT ALL

Spec clutches are noisy and they glaze over easily compared to others.

Bottom line, ANY single plate or multiplate clutch will be harsh because thats what they are designed for. Just get a 6 puck act sprung and you will be more than happy.