My new car!

[chickenwafer]

Really? That's good news, I was thinking I would have to complete gut the interior LOL

[speedjunkie]

I've been real bored because I have the weekend off work, my woman is out of town the entire weekend as well, and just to make matters worse, the bulb in my 50" Sony blew on Thursday! I ordered a new one, but I won't have it until Friday.

It's a good TV, SXRD Series, 50", 1080p HD Hi-Def, enough inputs on the back to connect 5 of anything you want, etc etc, but I up here in this elevation I just don't think the bulbs last. It's blowing every 11 months now, on the dot. So, I'm probably going to upgrade to a fresh new 65" Panasonic plasma soon, haha!

Anyways, been thinking of stuff to do for the FD. One product I've heard a lot of good stuff about is the N2MB WOT Box, I know a lot of Speed guys here use it. http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox

In case you don't know, it's basically a box that allows you to do a "no-lift shift"- keep your foot on the gas, push in the clutch, grab the next gear, let out the clutch, and go. The difference here is the N2MB box interrupts ignition timing (like a 2-step) when it senses you're WOT and have the clutch pedal depressed.

It's a nifty little box, but FD transmissions aren't known for the ability to take abuse, and the FD isn't listed as a compatible car. The biggest difference is the three coils for ignition (1 leading coil for both leading plugs, 2 trailing coils for each trailing plug on the FD), and the WOT Box only has 1 coil output wire, although I don't see why I couldn't splice that into all the coils. The problem there is the leading and trailing coils are usually running difference timing...

And I am still heavily considering doing the tan to black interior swap. I wouldn't need much, but I'm worried about getting the OEM Tan carpet out LOL. You really have to gut the interior to remove it.

The main reason it's appealing is my tan leather seats are in pretty rough shape right now, so I want to them re-covered anyways. If I do it, I might has well get them recovered in black leather and just do the interior swap, LOL.

Damn that sucks...no TV, no work, no woman, no parts for the FD, LOL wow.

Yeah I saw the pics from when they did the swap on my carpet and it doesn't look like much work. Take out the seats, center console and door sills, and I think that's it. Is that right Frank?

That box is cool as shit! I would LOVE to no-lift-shift. I don't really care much about the 2-step function since I won't be drag racing, but the no-lift is awesome. I wonder how well it would work on the FD though.

And I was always told the plasma TVs don't hold up at altitude. Might wanna check into that before you get one. I'd get one of those LED TVs if I were you. Hell I'm wanting one now myself. I saw one downtown a couple weeks ago and about lost my mind with how clear it was lol.

[Chance]

soooooo.........



does this car do retarded burnouts yet?

[chickenwafer]

LOL, Retarded burnouts?

Eric- I do like the LED TV's, but they are still kinda pricey. Plasma is still the best bang for you buck. And I can get it in 65", which is just about the biggest commercially available screen out there without going to a projector.

Plasmas don't really have issues with altitude until 7,000ft or greater, even then, it's not bad.

I might contact N2MB about the compatibility of their WOT Box for the FD. I'm not sure I need the 2-step, but it would be kinda cool to have. It would be funny if I was at a stop light, some stupid ricer kid next to me wanted to go, all I would need to do is hit the 2-step and he would probably back down LOL. I know I would.

[speedjunkie]

Yeah that would be an awesome use of the 2-step LOL.

Just wait about a year or two on the LED TVs, they should be affordable by then haha.

[Chance]

Probably less than that, tv's get outdated and decrease in price so fast now days


I want that 3d tv, it sounds sweet

[chickenwafer]

I've seen the 3D tv's in person, I don't know, maybe it's just me but they don't look too good. You can visually detect the different "layers".

Plus, 3D is just like HDTV, you need a source made for it. So your current Blu-Ray player won't play 3D Blu-Ray movies, you need 3D from your cable/dish provider, etc. The cost just doesn't end with the TV.

I'm probably not going to buy a new TV until the new bulb breaks again anyways, so it will be a while. I have too many car parts I want in the meantime LOL.

Right now I'm pricing out a dual oil cooler setup. All braided -10AN hose, AN fittings, the works. My dilemma is whether to do two smaller 19 row coolers or one big 25 row cooler. The two 19 row coolers will give me 38 rows, whereas the 25 row single will obviously only give me 25. But the single cooler setup is about $195 less expensive.

Plus, I could easily expand the single cooler setup to a dual setup with just another cooler, three new fittings, and about 5ft of hose.

I also have my water/meth pump welded to the two hook on the passenger side, where the second oil cooler would go. So I'd either have to move my water/meth pump (don't want to) or get creative with the mounting bracket on the second cooler.

[iani1.1]

lol parts or a new tv. such a dilemma, but i have the 55' samsung led tv. it was on sale at bestbuy during black friday so i had to get it lol. then bills came and left me broke for about a month but i tell ya its worth it. i had the brightness set all the way down and its still pretty damn bright. also COD is just awesome to play on it.

[speedjunkie]

Dammit, Ian, do you HAVE to rub it in? LOL

Dave, I'd look at just piecing together your own oil cooler kit. What coolers are you looking at anyway? I have Mocal on the car and I'm getting rid of them when I get home. I have Setrabs waiting to go on. I think I mentioned before on this forum about how the fittings on the Mocal are built in but the fittings on the Setrab are removable, so if one of them gets crossthreaded or messed up in any way, it's WAY cheaper to fix it. And you can get whatever line and fittings you want to use, and the only thing left would be the little block it runs through, but I imagine you could find that at a racing parts place like Pegasus Auto. Just a thought.

[chickenwafer]

Well I settled on doing dual coolers, I just don't want to half *** it. Go big or go home. I fully plan on building my own kit for two reasons, 1) it's fun!, and 2) I'll save some cash

I'm just now debating between Earls coolers or Setrab coolers. Earls coolers are the same type as Mocal, with built-in male AN fittings. Setrab coolers are about twice as expensive LOL.

Also debating between Aeroquip Socketless hose with AN fittings or Earls Pro Lite 350 braided AN hose with AN fittings. The socketless hose is really cool- no clamp required, just slides over a AN fittings with a barb and gives you 250psi working pressure. The biggest benefit is the fittings are about 1/2 the price of traditional AN fittings and the hose is about 1/4 the price of traditional braided AN hose.

Additionally, my friend in Phoenix with a 575-rwhp FC used Pushlock fitting for his oil cooler and it works fine. Ironically, he had some genuine Mazdaspeed braided SS cooler hoses that split on him and nearly costs him a motor (one of 4 he's been through now LOL).

The biggest benefit of traditional braided AN hose and fittings over the socketless/pushlock stuff is it's more abrasion and heat resistant, and can handle slightly higher temps and pressures.

For both Earls coolers with all Aeroquip socketless -10AN hose and fittings is $645, for dual Earls coolers with all Summit brand AN Fittings and genuine Earls hose is $786. I have it all priced out LOL. SO you can see there is quite a difference in price between the two types of hose and fittings.

Eric, are your coolers good? If so I would be interested in taking them off your hands, LOL.

Here's a good video on socketless/pushlock hose and fittings. These are the Earls brand of fittings, called "Super Stock" hose and fittings:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Es8oMQ6noLI"]YouTube- Super Stock Assembly Video[/ame]

And then traditional AN fittings and Braided Hose:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDSozy6MZto&feature=related"]YouTube- #6 Swivel Seal Assembly[/ame]

And this is the Pro Lite 350 braided nylon hose, weights less than normal SS braided and easier to work with:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8chJRGRUCw&feature=related"]YouTube- Pro Lite Assembly Video[/ame]

[Chance]

My car has aeromotive fittings and aside from the one line I ****ed up building the first go around they look good and seal fine

[speedjunkie]

First of all, no, my coolers are not good. One of them is decent, one is shit, and a brand new one I got from Mocal is shit, that's one reason I switched to Setrab. And I didn't really notice them being that much more expensive than the Mocal. Especially considering I had bought a brand new one and it was a piece of garbage already. For one, I thought it was leaking from the threads, but even after getting those to stop leaking, I was still getting seeping from somewhere. It was coming out from the fins themselves somewhere on there, it wasn't spraying or draining from the fittings. However, all of that oil was spraying back on my tires and suspension and whatever else is back there, and that is a no-no for me. I've had those Setrabs for several months now, but I didn't want to put the car down to work on it right before I left, and I was still working on the house anyway. Oh well, when I get back, it's on! lol Soooooo many projects.

Also, I never thought of using a chisel to cut the SS braided line, that's awesome! I've built some hoses in my time working in the AF, so I knew how to do most of this stuff from my job, but you almost always learn something new with these videos lol.

[chickenwafer]

Well I did look at the prices on Mocal vs Setrab coolers, price is basically negligible. But the Earls coolers I am looking at are much less expensive, about $132 per piece for the 19 row coolers, vs $189 for the Setrab dual 19 row coolers. So I'm still on the fence.

The biggest decision I have is whether or not to do the braided nylon AN fittings or the pushlock hose.

[chickenwafer]

I'm also getting an itch I need to scratch in the form of a 20B swap.

Initially I dismissed the idea of doing the swap because I believed it to be far too expensive. But I've been slowly doing some research and it's not really that much more in the grand scheme of things.

The biggest other costs are the subframe for the 20B, the 20B keg itself, and the fact 20B's are a little more money to rebuild. Other than that, ALL the other parts I need for the swap, like a radiator, dual oil coolers, clutch/flywheel, fuel system, standalone, etc, are all parts I was/am going to buy for my 13B anyways! Not to mention i plan on rebuilding the 13B anyways, so in the end the only real extra cost is the subframe and the 20B keg itself.

I can also sell a lot of 13B parts, including a good condition/running 13B long block, to help re-coup some of the cost with buying the 20B.

I could run the stock FD trans as long as I can before the 20B eats it, but really I could exercise some restraint and keep the 20B to around 600rwhp or less, so the factory trans should be OK as long as I Granny shift LOL.

So it's something I'm considering right now! We'll see...there is still a lot of cost involved. It would take me a while to save up to get the 3-rotor in the chassis but we'll see. I'm probably going to stay 13B but who knows....

[speedjunkie]

Wow, that didn't take long at all for the 20B bug to bite LOL. Have you been talking to guys in Florida? Seems like turbo 20Bs are dime a dozen down there, I think you get one for free when you move there.