My new car!

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 9:14

So I cleaned out the garage today and got rid of a bunch stock FD parts. I also had to move the FD out to the street temporarily while cleaning the garage, which gave me an opportunity to test another "fix" for my hot starting issues...

This was actually thought up by Matt, but it was that I didn't use heavy enough gauge of wire when relocating my battery to the trunk (I used 8g). The theory is simply not enough juice is getting to the starter because of the long run coupled with the smaller gauge wire, the starter isn't able to spin fast enough and potentially the ECU/injectors/coils aren't getting full power, either.

Luckily, testing the theory proved pretty simple. I drove the FD around, parked it on the street and pulled my VW in front. Shut the FD down, attempted a restart, and it was doing the same no hot start, so I successfully replicated the issue. Jumper cables out, I jumped the VW to the FD's main where the battery wire connects and grounded.

Attempt to restart, and wow! The starter spun at least twice, if not more, faster. I normally monitor 200-240rpm while cranking normally, hooked up to the VW's battery I was seeing 500-600rpm. At first it didn't start, but it really wanted to. I looked at the AFR gauge and it was really lean (19:1) so I added a little more cranking fuel and bang! The engine fired right up! I was really ecstatic.

So I think I'm going to order some 0g power cable to redo the battery wiring with. If that doesn't do the trick, I may just have to get a new, larger full size battery and mount it somewhere else in the hatch.

Brigdh · Postby **Brigdh** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 9:14

Isn't 250 rpm right about where the starter is supposed to be spinning? When I did compression tests on my FB and FCs, the FSM for both indicated that 250 RPM on cranking is where the starter should be, and to compensate the compression values if the starter was spinning faster or slower.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 9:14

Yeah, I've heard that's about where it supposed to be, but 500rpm isn't hurting anything. I honestly think the starter motor isn't spinning the engine to 500rpm, but to 250 and the combustion process catches so fast it bounces right up when my gauge reads it.

The other problem was my current setup is spinning the engine to 250 to start with, then it quickly tapers down to about 180-160rpm. With the FD jumped, I was getting 500rpm right off the bat with the engine start instantly. Regardless, I'm taking it as a good sign haha.

Brigdh · Postby **Brigdh** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 9:14

Yeah, its probably catching right away and showing a "fake" value of 500. Starters burn themselves out if they spin too fast (too much current flowing though it), and if they can't disengage when the engine takes over, you can even slag the entire starter to the bell housing. It happened to me once on a short road trip in Wisconsin and really sucked.

I'll have to keep the wire gauge in mind if I decide to relocate the battery in one of my FCs. A few pounds of wiring by running "thin" is not worth starting problems.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 9:14

I'm glad you tried this and it worked for you. Hopefully that's your issue and you don't have to rebuild like you were thinking. I would think that's the issue since it worked for you this time.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 9:14

Thanks, Eric, I'm hoping this solves it. Although the issue has been so intermittent (not lately, however) I'm not sure if this was a fluke ornot.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:14

Haven't updated in a while, the FD has been sitting in the garage tucked away while we got snow.

Since the battery testing with jumping the car, I ordered some high quality 0/1g power cable and terminals. Today, I ran the new heavy duty power cable replacing the 4g cable I used to wire it up. Had to get a little creative with the routing but got it done.

Started the car up and the starter spun much faster than before- sounded healthier for sure. Fired right up. Ran great without issue, getting full voltage between the battery and alternator.

Let it warm up, shut off the engine, attempted to restart. Fired right up again! Good news! Although, it would usually do that before (without driving it would usually restart), so the real test will come tomorrow when I drive it around and see what happens. Here's hoping I finally fixed this!

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:14

Still using that Braille battery?

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:14

Yeah, still have the Braille. It claims 550CCA and up to 1000 "pulse amps", whatever that means- pretty sure it's marketing BS.

If I'm still have some issues, I might try swapping to a full size car battery and see what happens. Still happening then I know I have another issue.

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:14

Yeap, throw a full size battery and see how you like it.

I have an Exide AGM 770cca, the starter spins the engine like nothing lol.
They are stupid heavy thought.

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Sun Mar 03, 2013 9:14

Dave, you know Eduardo is working at a battery company now, right?

Like a vulture, swooping in to make a sale.

LOL jk

VRx8 · Postby **VRx8** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 9:14

Lol, I work on 3000 pounds batteries.

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 9:14

LOL, get me a discount Eduardo!!

speedjunkie · Postby **speedjunkie** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 9:14

Dave, you want a 3000lb battery in your car? lol

chickenwafer · Postby **chickenwafer** » Tue Mar 05, 2013 9:14

I'll get a trailer to tow it behind the FD. No more starting issues...ever.

My new car!

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