My new Rx7 R1

[4g63<13b]

You can get Seafoam at Autozone. I usually recommend it as a last ditch attempt to potentially save a motor. It can sometimes do more damage than good. I would recommend distiller water first.

To use seafoam or water, you just start up the engine and hook up a vacuum hose to a nipple on the UIM, drop the hose in the Seafoam or water container, hold rpm at 3000, and let the engine vacuum suck it in.

Apex seals aren't the only seals in the engine...you could have a bad side seal, corner seal, flattened apex seal, corner seal, or side seal springs, etc. Most of these failures will drop compression on a single face, whereas apex seal damage will drop compression on at least two faces.

That's why you use the piston tester, remove the Schrader valve and watch for even consistent bounces. Don't pay attention to overall compression numbers.

I did pull the schrader out, the bounces were 75ish 50 50. Two faces were noticably lower then the one, the front was like 55ish 30 30 again two were very noticably lower

[chickenwafer]

Well that is bad...even bounces is the best thing to look for. If they aren't something is for sure wrong. Chipped/fractured apex seal, flattened apex seal spring, etc. But I would say, based off the information you have provided, your engine is in need of a rebuild.

Running the engine anymore, let alone driving it, could do more extensive damage to the housing, irons, rotors, etc and make for a more costly rebuild.

[ecam8000]

Not a rotory guy, but one weak apex seal would let two chambers show low compression, right?

[chickenwafer]

Correct, an apex seal seals two chambers so it would lower 2 of the 3 faces.

[Ryan95]

I'm thinking he probably lost a couple of side or corner seals, or warped the housings bad enough to cause them to fail to seal.
He did say he was at basically redline when the car died, localized heating is a bitch up there, and when you factor in that the car was shut off and not restarted (to circulate coolant)
That'd explain his white smoke.