Car won't start at all now..

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AuroraAxela
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Postby AuroraAxela » Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:14

It has potential to.... but have you or anyone checked to see if you have a parasitic draw when the engine is off?
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[color="Blue"][SIZE="3"]2009 Mazdaspeed 3 GT[/SIZE][/color]

[SIZE="1"][color="Blue"][color="Blue"]POWERTRAIN: GTX3067R . Cobb AP . Cobb 3-port . Autotech internals . HTP 3" intake . cp-e FMIC . Forge v1 BPV . TWM STS . CNT Turboback
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SUSPENSION: K-Sport coilovers . Whiteline RSB . custom MS6 wheels
EXTERIOR: cp-e TowPlate . DDM Tuning 5000K HID low/fog
INTERIOR: Defi boost gauge/cp-e defroster mount . NRG shift knob . CorkSport LEDs[/color][/color][/SIZE]

christi
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Postby christi » Mon Apr 09, 2012 9:14

Nope. How does one do that?
1990 RX-7 'vert black/black -- "Jello Stick"
13B n/a Street Port
Goopy performance
straight pipe & racing beat header

2005 Mazda 3
nothin' but stock love.

Past:
1988 GXL RX-7 2002-2004 [Blown Apex seal]
1991 'vert RX-7... 2003-2004 [4' under water, hurricane ivan 2004]

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AuroraAxela
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Location: Aurora, CO

Postby AuroraAxela » Mon Apr 09, 2012 9:14

not sure if I can explain it well.... get a multimeter, disconnect a battery terminal, and place the test leads into the circuit. After it settles for a minute, watch for a reading of more than about 2-5mA.... basically looking for signs that something is pulling more power than necessary to run, say, the clock.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
[color="Blue"][SIZE="3"]2009 Mazdaspeed 3 GT[/SIZE][/color]


[SIZE="1"][color="Blue"][color="Blue"]POWERTRAIN: GTX3067R . Cobb AP . Cobb 3-port . Autotech internals . HTP 3" intake . cp-e FMIC . Forge v1 BPV . TWM STS . CNT Turboback
NGK 1-step colder . Bosch 3-bar . cp-e xFlex™ RMM/TMM/PMM . CorkSport recirc tube . Kosmic EGR delete
SUSPENSION: K-Sport coilovers . Whiteline RSB . custom MS6 wheels
EXTERIOR: cp-e TowPlate . DDM Tuning 5000K HID low/fog
INTERIOR: Defi boost gauge/cp-e defroster mount . NRG shift knob . CorkSport LEDs[/color][/color][/SIZE]

christi
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Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2010 9:14
Location: Colorado Springs/Pueblo, CO

Postby christi » Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:14

We found it's the alternator. The car is sitting in my driveway with the battery not hooked up.....until I can afford the replacement :( I'm gonna probably hook it up today after work or tomorrow afternoon and drive her around, but damn. Everything is going wrong for me lol
1990 RX-7 'vert black/black -- "Jello Stick"

13B n/a Street Port

Goopy performance

straight pipe & racing beat header



2005 Mazda 3

nothin' but stock love.



Past:
1988 GXL RX-7 2002-2004 [Blown Apex seal]
1991 'vert RX-7... 2003-2004 [4' under water, hurricane ivan 2004]

hcbr929rr2
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Postby hcbr929rr2 » Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:14

If you have an electrical draw of some kind that needs fixin, after you charge/replace the battery you can swing the whole car by a pepboys and they can test the system to see if there is a draw, IIRC they don't charge for that test, and the handheld tester does everything so it would be pretty hard for them to screw it up lol, how do you know its the alternator?
2012 Mustang GT 5.0 - Kona Blue
1991 Ford F-150 - Red
2004 Corvette Z06 - Torch Red
1988 Nissan 300ZX - Beater White

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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:14

You can also use a test light. Disconnect the negative terminal and hook the light between the terminal and negative post, if you have a draw the light will be on. Start pulling fuses until the light goes off. Then you'll know which circuit it's in at least.
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eliminster
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Postby eliminster » Sun Apr 22, 2012 9:14

Speedjunkie's method is litterally the easiest way to quickly pinpoint which circuit is giving you the draw, the only problem with going to pepboy's is their machine won't tell you where the draw is just that you have a draw. I think I mentioned that method to speedjunkie a couple of weeks ago when we were talking about the parasitic draw on the fd that joined us to cruise.
87 red rx7
running 13b re cosmo motor
03 yellow wrx
yes it is a stock color
00 black s10 zr2
yes i have it to tow cars when they break.

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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Wed Apr 25, 2012 9:14

Actually I had to do that back in 2009 because the driver's side door lock has a wire going to it that's bad so it was drawing on my battery and I used this method to find it lol.

You still might have told me though lol.
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