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coloskydiver
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Home Network Help.

Postby coloskydiver » Wed Jun 05, 2013 9:14

I know there are bunch of tech guys here and wanted to see if anyone would be able to help me out with some simple network cable wiring. We are in the process of finishing our basement and in order to get internet access to the tv and PS3 I need to move the cable modem/router into the basement. The house has a low voltage box in the basement and certin parts of the house have been wired for a network but in the box there is not RJ45 conector, just the exposed wires. I prety much need a conector crimped on. Before drywall went up I ran a network cable from the box,behind the wall and have it coming out with the cable . The plan is to conect that cable from the router to the raw cable. This will alow me to put a switch on the main floor to provide adaquite WFi coverage.

This all makes sense to me but could be way off. If anyone has the tools and willing to help, it would be greatly appreciated. I am assumming it would take 3 minutes and am willing to pay someone for their help.

Please let me know if my thought process is correct and if you can help.

Thanks,

Ron
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kingtut
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Postby kingtut » Wed Jun 05, 2013 9:14

This was your 666th post, as such I am unable to help. Kidding, I know nothing about everything.

I'm sure the resident techy's will reply soon enough...good luck!
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erod550
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Postby erod550 » Wed Jun 05, 2013 9:14

Here's a page with the wiring diagrams. You'd just need a connector and a crimping tool to do it. I got a set of tools when I was going to school for network administration but I have no idea where they are now.

http://www.cablesplususa.com/rj45-utp-guide.php
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I`m Batman
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Postby I`m Batman » Wed Jun 05, 2013 9:14

I probably help but I don't have any tools.
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coloskydiver
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Postby coloskydiver » Thu Jun 06, 2013 9:14

Thanks guys. I know it is not that hard and will probably end up tackeling it, I just didn't want to go out a buy all the stuff for one ethernet cable.

Next tech question. Once everthing is wired and I plug a second router in on my main floor, how do I set it up to broadcast wfi on the same network as the main modem/router?
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2006 Speed 6- SOLD
2008 Scion Xd- SOLD
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2008 Ford F250 Super Duty- Current
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Postby Huzer » Thu Jun 06, 2013 9:14

I was about to type something up, and found this link:

Using a Wireless Router as an Access Point
Members often ask about how to add wireless capabilities to their existing network, which already uses a wired router. See note after 2b, for attaching a Wifi Router as an AP/switch to an existing wifi network. Since it is often less expensive than an access point, a wireless router may make sense.

1. Using a PC wired into the current router, unplug it from the wired connection and plug into a LAN port on the secondary router. Access the secondary router using your browser via its default LAN IP address and default password. Since the PC was attached to the previous router you will have tell the PC to obtain a LAN IP from the new device. Use 'winipcfg' in win9x or 'ipconfig release/renew' with W2K/XP on the PC.

2. On the secondary router (hereafter called the AP)

a. change the default password to a minimum combination of 8 letters/numbers/symbols.

b. Change the ESSID to a unique name and make all the necessary wireless configurations.
Note: If attaching a WiFi router as an AP/switch to an existing wifi network, one should keep the ESSIDs the same for seamless roaming, or separate if one wants to manually decide which AP to connect to. If you decide to use the existing ESSID as your existing wireless network, your security settings should be the same. Also, ensure channel separation (1-6-11 common for three devices). Two wireless AP on the same channel does not work very well.

3. In the AP, go to the LAN setup page:

a. Turn DHCP serving OFF on the AP (i.e secondary router being configured as AP). This is necessary so that your DHCP clients obtain correct settings (with correct gateway) from the primary router instead of the incomplete/erroneous one from the AP.

b. Change the LAN IP of the AP from its default so that it lies within the subnet of the primary router but preferably outside the dynamic LAN IP range of the primary router. (examples below) Note: This is not a requirement, but keeping everything in the same IP range can make administration and file sharing easier.

c. Disable or turn RIP off, if there is that option.

d. Disable or turn off Universal Plug and Play (UPnP) support (if any).

4. Plug the PC back into the wired connection and repeat the process of getting new LAN IP. A reboot of the PC may be needed.

5. Plug the AP into the primary router, LAN port TO LAN port directly or via switch/patch panel etc. Leave the WAN port of AP disconnected.

6. It may be necessary to reboot one or both routers but one should be able to assign LAN IPs wirelessly and connect at this point, ensuring WiFi card setup properly.

http://www.dslreports.com/faq/11233

It's no help now, but in the Air Force, one of my functions was making cables for anything we needed. We stood up a new data center and made every cable by hand, coax, ethernet, fiber, etc. We didn't buy pre-made cables, just rolls of cable, connectors, and the associated crimpers. We even had to polish our own fiber. (pauses for tut comment) My crimpers stayed in VA when I moved.
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Mortose
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Postby Mortose » Thu Jun 06, 2013 9:14

another option instead of setting up a wireless system throughout your house you can get these.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/ZyXEL-Powerline-Wall-Plug-Adapter-PLA4215KIT/dp/B006L6X7PM/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1370542665&sr=8-13&keywords=zyxel[/ame]

I have a set to run a hard line to my xbox/ps3/tv, as the wireless was in and out while playing online. they work like a charm, never had one issue with them and have been running them for over 6 months.

they pretty much stack your internet on the 120v 60Hz sine wave of your AC power in the house, and all the other boxes you get just pull it right off the top.

coloskydiver
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Postby coloskydiver » Thu Jun 06, 2013 9:14

Huzer wrote:I was about to type something up, and found this link:

Using a Wireless Router as an Access Point
Members often ask about how to add wireless capabilities to their existing network, which already uses a wired router. See note after 2b, for attaching a Wifi Router as an AP/switch to an existing wifi network. Since it is often less expensive than an access point, a wireless router may make sense.

1. Using a PC wired into the current router, unplug it from the wired connection and plug into a LAN port on the secondary router. Access the secondary router using your browser via its default LAN IP address and default password. Since the PC was attached to the previous router you will have tell the PC to obtain a LAN IP from the new device. Use 'winipcfg' in win9x or 'ipconfig release/renew' with W2K/XP on the PC.

2. On the secondary router (hereafter called the AP)

a. change the default password to a minimum combination of 8 letters/numbers/symbols.

b. Change the ESSID to a unique name and make all the necessary wireless configurations.
Note: If attaching a WiFi router as an AP/switch to an existing wifi network, one should keep the ESSIDs the same for seamless roaming, or separate if one wants to manually decide which AP to connect to. If you decide to use the existing ESSID as your existing wireless network, your security settings should be the same. Also, ensure channel separation (1-6-11 common for three devices). Two wireless AP on the same channel does not work very well.

3. In the AP, go to the LAN setup page:

a. Turn DHCP serving OFF on the AP (i.e secondary router being configured as AP). This is necessary so that your DHCP clients obtain correct settings (with correct gateway) from the primary router instead of the incomplete/erroneous one from the AP.

b. Change the LAN IP of the AP from its default so that it lies within the subnet of the primary router but preferably outside the dynamic LAN IP range of the primary router. (examples below) Note: This is not a requirement, but keeping everything in the same IP range can make administration and file sharing easier.

c. Disable or turn RIP off, if there is that option.

d. Disable or turn off Universal Plug and Play (UPnP) support (if any).

4. Plug the PC back into the wired connection and repeat the process of getting new LAN IP. A reboot of the PC may be needed.

5. Plug the AP into the primary router, LAN port TO LAN port directly or via switch/patch panel etc. Leave the WAN port of AP disconnected.

6. It may be necessary to reboot one or both routers but one should be able to assign LAN IPs wirelessly and connect at this point, ensuring WiFi card setup properly.

http://www.dslreports.com/faq/11233

It's no help now, but in the Air Force, one of my functions was making cables for anything we needed. We stood up a new data center and made every cable by hand, coax, ethernet, fiber, etc. We didn't buy pre-made cables, just rolls of cable, connectors, and the associated crimpers. We even had to polish our own fiber. (pauses for tut comment) My crimpers stayed in VA when I moved.



This is above my pay grade. Some of it makes sense but there are a lot of steps you could screwup. It might be easier to simply run two wireless networks in the house.
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2005 Nissan Nismo Frontier-Supercharged- SOLD
2006 Speed 6- SOLD
2008 Scion Xd- SOLD
1990 Miata- SuperCharged 331 Fuel Injected Small Block Ford V8-SOLD
2008 Ford F250 Super Duty- Current
2014 Factory Five 818S- In Progress

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Huzer
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Postby Huzer » Thu Jun 06, 2013 9:14

Really, the main thing to do would be to turn off DHCP and change the IP address to match your existing network. You'd most likely to be good to go from there.
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Shadowden
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Postby Shadowden » Thu Jun 06, 2013 9:14

kingtut wrote:This was your 666th post, as such I am unable to help. Kidding, I know nothing about everything.

I'm sure the resident techy's will reply soon enough...good luck!


Strangely, me knowing everything about nothing has us as equals...:mellow:

Wish I could help Ron, but I have no idea about routers. We just have one for our whole house.

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kingtut
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Postby kingtut » Thu Jun 06, 2013 9:14

Huzer wrote:Really, the main thing to do would be to turn off DHCP and change the IP address to match your existing network. You'd most likely to be good to go from there.


Wait, what? You lost me at DHCP, says the "non-comp guy" to the apparent comp guy ;)

Shadowden wrote:Strangely, me knowing everything about nothing has us as equals...:mellow:

Wish I could help Ron, but I have no idea about routers. We just have one for our whole house.


Me too. We're a one router household..

Too bad, I figured someone would offer to lend a hand.
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I`m Batman
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Postby I`m Batman » Thu Jun 06, 2013 9:14

I would help but I don't have necessary tools. :(
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coloskydiver
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Postby coloskydiver » Sat Jun 15, 2013 9:14

I was able to get all the wiring taken care of but am having some issues setting up the router. Everything goes well until I change the IP adress. Once I change it, the screen goes blank and am unable to access the router setup through the web IP adress. My question is, All I want to do is boost my WIFI throughout the house since the main router is in the basement and am not worried about file share, so do I need to have the same IP address? The main router/ cable modem is not attached to a computer and all my computers are contected through the Wifi, not hard wired. The only devices that are hardwired is the TV and PS3.

Please help.
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2005 Nissan Nismo Frontier-Supercharged- SOLD
2006 Speed 6- SOLD
2008 Scion Xd- SOLD
1990 Miata- SuperCharged 331 Fuel Injected Small Block Ford V8-SOLD
2008 Ford F250 Super Duty- Current
2014 Factory Five 818S- In Progress

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erod550
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Postby erod550 » Sun Jun 16, 2013 9:14

The two routers must have different IP addresses. The main one is likely going to be 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1. The other one will need to be 192.168.(same as the main one).something. Then you determine which router your wireless devices connect to by choosing which SSID they connect to. The routers cannot share an SSID either, they will each need their own.

None of this is really going to "boost" your wi-fi throughput in the house. It'll just give you a stronger signal upstairs if you connect to the one that's upstairs, but it won't affect the signal stength of the downstairs router at all.
2015 Ironman Silver Veloster Turbo - Bone stock and staying that way

1990 Crystal White Miata - Beater - Bignose 1.6L Swap, Robbins Top w/Glass Window, E-Codes, Air Horns, Brembo Rotors



Former Rides:

2011 Kona Blue Mustang GT 5.0

2009 True Red Mazdaspeed3 GT

2005 Flame Red SRT-4


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