1970 Ford F250 Explorer

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speedjunkie
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Postby speedjunkie » Fri Oct 19, 2012 9:14

Good grief man lol.

The good thing is as old as the truck is, there shouldn't be too much wiring to sort through. You could probably just trace it all and look for bad wiring. You might also find other issues that need to be fixed before they give you problems.
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Justin
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Postby Justin » Sun Oct 21, 2012 9:14

You may want to consider a new wiring harness. It isn't a crazy amount of money or time to install one, and it makes a big difference. The wiring in my '71 Bronco was a nightmare, so that was the first upgrade I made to it. 40+ year old wires=problems.

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RX-7 Chris
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Postby RX-7 Chris » Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:14

So I ended up replacing the harness. I also replaced the ignition switch, brake switch, and headlight switch.

I installed a wiring harness out of a '72 (same body style) that was in perfect shape. Ford changed the harness every year back then for reasons unknown. At least they kept the same color wires so that helped. I basically had to rework the wiring under the hood including all plugs.

Once I started looking at the wiring I had, I found more and more sections that were messed up. I found a blade fuse that was taped to some wires than covered in tape and hidden. I found wires cut and spliced to wrong wires (brake light switch was tapped into the column).

What I'm still working out:
-no heater fan (didn't have time to look into it, was the last on the list)
-gages not working, 2 gage illumination lights not working (I think it's a bad printed circuit and voltage stabilizer)
-the big problem is no brake lights and emergency flashers not working in the back (turn signals work in the back)

I'm running out of possible causes with the brake lights. I had this problem in the past so I think it has to be something I haven't changed. The only thing left is the flasher switch.

I'll update after I look through the wiring diagrams again.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]

My Car Blog

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Huzer
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Postby Huzer » Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:14

You're a better man than I. I hate tracking electrical issues. My '85 Cherokee had all sorts of problems that I gave up on. Took it to one shop and had them try to figure it out, but they couldn't either.
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RX-7 Chris
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Postby RX-7 Chris » Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:14

I actually don't mind chasing electrical issues, kinda like solving a puzzle. At least this truck only has 5 fuses.

The heater fan problem may be the motor itself. I didn't have a working fan before all this and I swapped out the heater controls at the same time as the harness. I need to pull out the meter and see if I'm getting power to the switch and than to the fan motor.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]

My Car Blog

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RX-7 Chris
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Postby RX-7 Chris » Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:14

The truck is driving.

I went back though the electrical system and figured out why I haven't had any tail lights. It was the turn signal switch. I have the switch temporarily fixed and the new one will be here on Wednesday. I went to the junk yard on Saturday and picked up a good instrument cluster. I painted the needles and replaced the lense. My gauges are working except the volt guage. I need to do a once over on the wires and see if I have sonething pluged in wrong. I even have a working fuel guage now.

Once I got the brake light ploblem figured out the wouldn't turn off. It ended up that my new brake light switch was bad. I had to make a run to the parts store and swap it.

I also replaced the alternator and the wiring for the alternator.

What I have left to do electrically:
-Volt Guage
-replace the heater fan
-install new turn signal switch
-wiring for radio
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]

My Car Blog

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tsx_guy
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Postby tsx_guy » Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:14

uhm great dude... damn... I washed my car over the weekend... well watched it get washed...
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RX-7 Chris
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Postby RX-7 Chris » Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:14

After doing more research I've found that the Volt Guage is actually an amp guage and basically does nothing. So I guess it's working, haha.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]

My Car Blog

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geo2maz
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Postby geo2maz » Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:14

nice! What are you planning on doing with the paint when it's ready?

http://www.dipyourcar.com/forums/showthread.php?3460-1985-C10-Custom-Blue!!!

:)
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RX-7 Chris
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Postby RX-7 Chris » Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:14

I plan to paint it the original Grabber Blue.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]

My Car Blog

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RX-7 Chris
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Postby RX-7 Chris » Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:14

My parts will be here today so I can finish the electrical. I plan to pick up the fan motor on the way home.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]

My Car Blog

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ecam8000
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Postby ecam8000 » Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:14

RX-7 Chris wrote:After doing more research I've found that the Volt Guage is actually an amp guage and basically does nothing. So I guess it's working, haha.


One thing to watch out for on these old Amp guages is that they have a fairly low capacity/rating. If one were to install a higher capacity alternator the amp gauge would be on borrowed time. If a one wire alt were installed the output should be routed right to the battery. The factory ampmeter would always show discharge, and a volt meter should be installed in or under the dash.

The amp meter is wired in between the alt, ignition switch and battery. It simply measures current flow from/to the battery. When conditions are normal it should be near or just on the + side of center on the gauge with the engine running. Engine off with the lights on should be just below the - side of center.
Eric
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99 BMW 328i

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RX-7 Chris
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Postby RX-7 Chris » Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:14

ecam8000 wrote:One thing to watch out for on these old Amp guages is that they have a fairly low capacity/rating. If one were to install a higher capacity alternator the amp gauge would be on borrowed time. If a one wire alt were installed the output should be routed right to the battery. The factory ampmeter would always show discharge, and a volt meter should be installed in or under the dash.

The amp meter is wired in between the alt, ignition switch and battery. It simply measures current flow from/to the battery. When conditions are normal it should be near or just on the + side of center on the gauge with the engine running. Engine off with the lights on should be just below the - side of center.

I have no plans to install a high power alt. I installed the highest available alternator for '70, the 65 amp.

Everything I've read on these gauges is that they don't move more than the width of the needle.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]

My Car Blog

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ecam8000
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Postby ecam8000 » Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:14

The starter is your biggest draw and it is not run through the amp gauge. If the battery is fully charged then yes the gauge hardly moves. If it were a discharged/now charging battery you could see most of the amps that the alternator is rated at on the gauge. Right after starting, these gauges will usually read about 10 amps for a while, until the battery reaches its before cranking charge. Also a weak battery/engine off and lights on, gauge can show 10-20 amp discharge.
Eric

99 Miata, 45 STR SCCA goto: http://www.rmsolo.org/



2 Fords 29 & 2000.



99 BMW 328i



THANKS! To all who serve.

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RX-7 Chris
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Postby RX-7 Chris » Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:14

So maybe the gauge isn't working because I haven't seen any movement.
1984 RX-7 GSL-SE [size=84]My restomod project[/SIZE]


1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL flat black w/ white interior, 2 dr fastback, 390 thunderbird, C6 auto, 2500 rpm high stall converter, shift kit, AC, Holley 750 cfm

[size=100]RIP 1983 RX-7[/SIZE]

My Car Blog


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